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Author Topic: How To : Install a new dry clutch pressure plate  (Read 47890 times)
He Man
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« on: September 13, 2008, 01:25:17 PM »

How to you guys install a dry clutch pressure plate?

General Notes:
-This is an extention of Yuu's post http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=350.0
-You will always need Metric tools. Please don't ask what size, because you will need to buy a set of METRIC HEX KEYS/ALLEN KEYS
-Your clutch is hot after a ride. Don't do this after riding.
-Most Clutch plates come notched in some form or fashion. Some companies use their logo as the notch, some will put a slit on it (like mine, and no I did not notch it myself, it was done by a machine. If you read further on, there is a explanation on the lack of explanation of why it is there) Some pressure plates will even put the notch on the back of the plate.
-If your bike blows up I take no responsibility, but please do video tape it and put it on youtube.com (TM)

Step 1. Remove clutch cover via 6 screws around your clutch cover. (no pic since mine is open) you will notice that in my pic, only 3 bolts are missing. that is because only 3 bolts hold the clutch cover on. the rest of them just help hold the case cover onto the main case.

Step 2. Locate your pressure plate (Its the grey circle thing with 6 springs around it)  Grin



Step 3. Loosen all the screws that hold the springs down.




Step 4. Notice the Mark on the 11'oclock position. There is a slot on the pressure plate, AND on the post (this connects to your engine)



Step 5. Remove plate. Your clutch rod MAY or MAYNOT come out. Mine did. Either way, pull it all out. if you were going to swap your cluthc pack, the easy way to do it would be to simply remove that big nut in the center, pull your drum out, repalce the pack and put the drum back in. but since we are not doing that right now, we;ll skip it.



Step 6. Go get your new pressure plate. and admire the anodizing if you got a bling ass one like me.


Step 7. Remove rod (just pull it out) and put it in the new plate. There are some difficultys in doing this sometimes. especilly on old bikes. you should use a press to press it out. if your doing this with your bike cold it may be more difficult, if you do it after you have ridden the bike, you may find that the rod comes out much easier.  just dont bend the rod.



Step 7A. NOTE: This may or may not be required depending on your bike. On mine, the Speedymoto bearing did not fit my bike. The rod went in, but my clutch kept  slipping. I believe some rizomas come with washers. either way, for this specific bike (2006 S2R1000) i just swaped the old bearing with the new bearing. How do you do it? You just take a center punch to knock out the center bearing.

Step 8. Put your plate back on, NOTICE THE NOTCH ON MY NEW PRESSURE PLATE. Let me emphasize this  ZOMG SLITS!!!!! Line those two suckers up. Otherwise (for the noob techs) YOUR ENGINE WILL BLOW UP AND YOU WILL HAVE THE PISTON BLOW THROUGH YOUR TANK AND BREAK YOUR CHEST BONE!!! and for the ladies, YOU WONT HAVE ANY MORE BOOBIES  :'(  waytogo no, seriously, line them up. Dont ask why, I really dont know, i tried glancing over that area, couldnt find a difference in the plate, maybe there is, and I wasn't paying attention, but I dont know why, and post up in Tech. Its an interesting question. edit: I know why now. There are and odd number of teeth and because there is an even number of post, it really is just an alignment issue. if you do not match it up, but the post still mate up, then your plate will not be completely pressed in and your clutch will slip.



Step 9. Just screw the caps back on. as you did when you took them off. A good practice (for all things) is to put the first screw in, and the next 180 degrees from it. aka, in a striaght line. this is done to prevent the item from being pinched to one side. If you do not do this it is possible that
Quote
your clutch will not actuate properly and ZOMBIES WILL KILL YOU UNTIL YOU DIE.
You may or may not need to push the plate down. It might need some pressure (especially if your clutch fluid is still hot, it is expanding and putting pressure on the clutch stack). So just put your hand on it, apply even pressure and you will push the fluid back into hte reservoir as you reinstall the springs.

Step 10. Look at your bike (no person shown in pic doing the looking, assume it is the camera man)


« Last Edit: March 27, 2011, 06:28:22 PM by He Man » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2008, 02:04:50 PM »

Did the aftermarket pressure plate come notched?  I assume it does, but it doesn't look precise, more like someone just took a file and did it.
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« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2008, 02:09:38 PM »

You forgot something very important.

When you tighten the screws back again, make sure to alternate opposite screws like if you were putting on a new wheel on a car.

 Otherwise, your clutch will not actuate properly and ZOMBIES WILL KILL YOU UNTIL YOU DIE.

that is all.
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He Man
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« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2008, 02:19:57 PM »

You forgot something very important.

When you tighten the screws back again, make sure to alternate opposite screws like if you were putting on a new wheel on a car.

 Otherwise, your clutch will not actuate properly and ZOMBIES WILL KILL YOU UNTIL YOU DIE.

that is all.

 laughingdp kill you until you die. LOLOLOL

Quote
Did the aftermarket pressure plate come notched?  I assume it does, but it doesn't look precise, more like someone just took a file and did it.

Please read general notes, I edited it to answer your question and added matadors comment in.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2008, 02:25:01 PM by He Man » Logged

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« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2008, 02:38:39 PM »

Thank you very much for demystifying the procedure.  waytogo

At the risk of threadjacking, your rear wheel is hawt. I think I remember seeing a write-up on TOB, but could you tell us all more about it?
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« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2008, 03:21:43 PM »

Thank you very much for demystifying the procedure.  waytogo

At the risk of threadjacking, your rear wheel is hawt. I think I remember seeing a write-up on TOB, but could you tell us all more about it?

That wasn't me. That was Monstermash. He did it to jewcatis bike and he posted a pic, ive been in love with that ever since. Mine is really make the beast with two backsed up ( you cant tell cause its far away), but i know what i did wrong and im gonna do it right on my front wheel. Ive just been to lazy. I wanna get the aluminum theme going ( again you dont see the rear cowl but i have a shiny aluminum rear cowl!)

edit: misread that post, you wnated to know how you do it.

Aircraft grade stripper (the gel form is the best since it wont get everywhere) + loads of masking tape + a plastic scraper + some going at it. pretty much it. I did it section at a time. I should of just removed my rear wheel, no idea why i didnt.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2008, 05:36:45 PM by He Man » Logged

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« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2008, 06:18:45 PM »

laughingdp kill you until you die. LOLOLOL


 Grin
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« Reply #7 on: September 20, 2008, 05:41:56 AM »

The notch on the plate is because the teeth on the clutch hub are not evenly spaced in relation to the posts.  The notch just helps you line it up properly.

If you don't line it up properly, the teeth on the pressure plate will not mesh with the teeth on the hub and... uh... zombies will kill you untill you die.
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« Reply #8 on: September 21, 2008, 08:52:06 AM »

OOOOHHHHH!!! i guess i would of found that out if i tried putting it another way.  waytogo
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« Reply #9 on: September 22, 2008, 03:28:29 PM »

You have the same set of allen wrenches that I do.
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« Reply #10 on: September 25, 2008, 12:14:27 PM »

You have the same set of allen wrenches that I do.

And me too, 2x - That set from Huskey's the best I've found.

And thanks for putting some photos and more detail to what I started off with.
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« Reply #11 on: September 29, 2008, 12:02:19 AM »

And me too, 2x - That set from Husky's the best I've found.



The set with metric and standard (with ball end allen wrenches) with the black thing in the middle that holds the two sets together and doubles as a handle for the individual wrenches?

For the price, I agree.  Couldn't ask for more.
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« Reply #12 on: September 30, 2008, 03:43:00 PM »

Aircraft grade stripper (the gel form is the best since it wont get everywhere) + loads of masking tape + a plastic scraper + some going at it. pretty much it. I did it section at a time. I should of just removed my rear wheel, no idea why i didnt.

Aircraft remover is very toxic, even the fumes.  Read the warning label.  If it's the same stuff I've used, there is a big red skull and crossbones, followed by a warning basically saying "this product will cause cancer".  Make sure you have a good respirator and a thick pair of latex gloves, cuz that stuff hella burns when you get it on your skin.
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« Reply #13 on: October 02, 2008, 03:44:50 PM »


The set with metric and standard (with ball end allen wrenches) with the black thing in the middle that holds the two sets together and doubles as a handle for the individual wrenches?

For the price, I agree.  Couldn't ask for more.

That's the set.  Metrics's perfect for the bike and SAEs perfect for the paintball gear.
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-Throttle's on the right, so are the brakes.  Good luck.
- '00 M900S with all the farkles
- '08 KTM 690 StupidMoto
- '07 Triumph 675 Track bike.
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« Reply #14 on: October 02, 2008, 04:14:07 PM »

thats not the set i have.

mins is strictly metric.



i didnt see that SAE one. i would of bought it if i knew it existed.

I shit you guys not, if i had a choice between  5,000 shopping spree at best buy vs home depot. id be VERY tempted to pick home depot. In fact im 80% sure i would. lol
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