from the manwell and how i do it, altho i do push the crank both ways to get the full travel. my set up here -
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yHoVTzC75Ys/T50NftJm5PI/AAAAAAAAAL4/XhDymz13gHI/s320/ss3.jpghttp://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com.au/2012/05/crank-shimming-info-for-monster-forum.htmlhttp://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com.au/2012/04/998s-motor-showing-its-bits.htmli only use 0.15mm preload. 0.30mm is a lot:
Practical shimming procedure
for the crankshaft
Below is a practical shimming
procedure allowing to correctly
calculate crankshaft shims.
Install a shim (9) of minimum
thickness (1.90 mm) on each side of
the crankshaft to avoid contact
between crank web and engine block.
Fit crankshaft into casing and close
engine block.
Fit three M8 screws into the holes
shown in the figure and tighten to the
specified torque (Sect. C 3).
Place a dial gauge (F) with magnetic
base on a support plate fixed to
crankcase.
Bring stylus in contact with
crankshaft end and set dial gauge to
zero with the stylus touching the
crankshaft.
Place a lever (R) between casing and
crank web and lever crankshaft
pushing towards dial gauge.
Note dial gauge reading. This will be
crankshaft axial play. Add pre-load
(0.30 mm) and total size of shims
used (1.90x2=2.8 mm).
Divide by two and you have obtained
the shimming required for each
casing.
Note
After closing the casings,
crankshaft must turn with some
interference in the new bearings.