after some research i found this (not my writeup)
The "Box"!
This stand is built from two sheets of 3/4" Marine Grade plywood (There are also a few sections of 1 X 2 used for bracing). Incredibly sturdy! The box will be able to support close to 800 pounds. Locations for handlebar tie-downs when the bike is on the stand. Easy as loading a bike onto a pick-up truck. Held together with friction alone. No fasteners! Quickly disassembles and stores as four 1/2 sheets of plywood. I believe it could be invaluable at the track!
Parts is Parts!
The parts of this box are: 2 sides, a top, a back and middle slat, and finally a front slat. You can purchase plywood from Home Depot or Lowes. They will cut twice for free with a vertical table saw with the purchase of the wood. Ask them to "rip" (cut the long way) the sheets down the middle. They will try to cut across the sheets about a 1/2 dozen times before they understand that you need them ripped! Make sure they get as close to center as possible. That's NOT as important as you think. Notice I use the same piece from each sheet as sides. That's in case their saw is off a bit. I suggest marking the pieces before they cut them. You can pay for the extra cuts to make the slats. I did mine myself (and then wish I'd paid for the extra cuts!).
Cutting Guide
While at the store you'll need a couple of lengths of 1" X 2". These were not in the original plans. I added them as stops and braces to the top. The keep the top from sliding on the box once assembled. Grab a handfull of screws long enough to go through the plywood and into the 1" X 2"s.
Building
The stand is held together by a series of slots cut in the sides and slats. The slots are just as wide as the plywood is thick. NO SLOP! They are exactly as long as 1/2 the height of the plywood. The slats get slots on the bottoms and sides get slots on the tops. Slots near the ends of the sides should start 3" from the ends. As should the slot's on the back and middle slats.
Use the middle slat and a centerline mark to mark the position of the slots on the front slat. It will stick out a foot further on the sides than the other slats. I put my middle slat where the center stand of my VFR and BMWs goes. Use your best judgment. I used a jig saw to cut the slots. I think a circular saw AND a jigsaw would of been better... but I didn't have a circular saw! I cut inside the lines and did most of my fitting with a file. It took a long time but I'd rather have these fit as tight as possible for strength. Before assembly I "lubed" up the slots with bar soap.
Slotting and Assembly Guide
In the diagram you'll notice the two sections of 1" X 2"s. These screw to the underside of the top. They are situated between the sides and in front of the back and behind the front slats. They provide a bit of strength to the top but are there mainly to keep the top from sliding around. The two holes in the front slat are for tie-downs to the bars or forks.. I have a hook from the ceiling to steady the bike but these can provide just as much if not more stability.
Tips
I firmly suggest two people are used to load a bike! I use an aluminum motorcycle ramp to load the bikes onto the stand. I run a strap through one of the "rungs" on the ramp and hook it onto the sides of the rear slat. This keeps the ramp from sliding off the top of the box. I'm pretty tall so I can walk beside the stand and still support the bike. I think most people will need a step stool to walk up and onto the stand with the bike. The other person should stand on the opposite side of the bike "just in case".
Safety is paramount and no personal injury is worth a dented tank. I always give the same briefing: "Help steady but if it starts to go: RUN!" The top of the box can be coated with non-skid. I haven't done it as I lay down too many tools and drip too much oil. Please be careful and use your best judgment: Bikes can fall off this stand!
