Ducati Monster Forum

Fitting clip ons to a monster is a common mod and helps to improve the feel at the front of the bike, more importantly...they look really cool!! While not the hardest task in the world they'll tax your patience trying to fit all the hoses and cables back into a much tighter space. This sometimes leaves the clocks and headlight looking a bit awkward in relation to everything and lowering those brings a much sleeker and more purposeful look. I used an aftermarket top yolk but this process is the same with the standard one.

This isnt the easiest way to drop your headlight,but, but this way you can keep the nose fairing as an option and I think is more elegant as it looks almost stock even when inspected  quite closely. I wanted the dropped look for the front after I  fitted clip ons and think it makes the whole bike look meaner and more streamlined.
Heres a picture of the OE top triple ready for removal, note the small nylon plugs at the bottom, you'll need those, they just pull off.They're held on with roll pins and you need to get those out if you intend to use the OE triple,if you use an aftermarket one just leave them there and save your efforts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/salsajayne/Headlight%20mods/mar006.jpg)

I started with a spare U-bracket that supports the headlight, just in case I messed it up.
I cut through the welds holding the bracket to the u frame and slid them down the frame a bit to where I though was an OK position (about an inch or so I think-I didn't measure it,but when looking at the photo the sensor frame holding the brackets makes a good estimate of how much lower the modified one is, as the steel frame is bolted to both side brackets and then slid down until it touches the top of the U bracket tube), I then had them rewelded locally by a specialist alloy welder,didn't have to be too neat as its not seen, the U frame itself was then cut shorter by the width of the clocks,all the fittings then go straight back on normally.
In the first photo of the U-bracket you can see how much lower the fairing bracket on the right is from stock one on the left,ignore the steel sensor frame as it was being used to hold the brackets in position.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/salsajayne/Headlight%20mods/mar085Small.jpg)


I had to use machine screws to secure the clocks as I couldn't find hex bolts or allen bolts long(7cm x M4 0r M5 I think- I cant remember) and narrow enough, these can be hidden anyway using black plastic screw caps, these then screw through the yolk,then a plumbers washer means you wont have to trim the clocks plastic to get it flush with the bottom side of the top triple, a bit of plastic tubing around the protuding screw also helped secure the clocks.
Then I refitted the OE nylon plugs over the machine screw and secured them against the clocks with small nyloc nut (this isn't really needed other than to stop the plugs falling off while you position everything). You can keep the sensor frame if you want but you dont need it,just mount the air sensor somewhere convenient instead, I zip tied it to another wire.
The shortened U frame will slip over the bottom of the screw and when pushed up be secured by the original nylon plugs above it and be attached normally at the bottom.
I didnt photograph this bit but have included a drawing of how the lot fitted back together.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/salsajayne/Headlight%20mods/u-frame.jpg)


I put it all back together to make sure I had no problems and then a while later pulled it apart and powdercoated the whole assembly black.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/salsajayne/Ducati%20Monster%20S2R/may003.jpg)

The biggest problems are accomodating the hoses and wires as the space behind the light is very tight indeed, I found that the OE brake hoses are too long and the double banjo bolt on the brake fouls the repositioned bracket,but these are all fixable with patience, I might do a few small adjustment to free up some space but it all seems to work in the meantime.

Very nice, thank you! wt:

Thanks,  My do it to my bike next week.

here is mine lowered:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3294/2476928539_a472548e33.jpg?v=0)

and another shot.  The lowered look is awesome... I also lowered the clip-ons to be under the triple, but I have to tell you with my helmet on it was really hard to see the stop lights when I rolled up to a stop unlessl I put the bike in neutral and stood up.  Although I love the look, I moved my clip-ons back up higher.(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3200/2477740846_fb53e75cb6.jpg?v=0)

Nice work,like that look. [thumbsup]

Looks very nice! What kind of belt cover thingies do you have? Any pics of those? Is it just a front piece only?

SPEEDYMOTO...  they come in colors too!
http://www.speedymoto.com/ (http://www.speedymoto.com/)

or...
https://secure.speedymoto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=SBC (https://secure.speedymoto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=SBC)

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2316/2515455426_decd22828e.jpg?v=0)

I did a variation of this... It came out amazingly  ;D

Thanls for posting this up!

Here is how I did it.

Parts list:
2- 6mm flat washers (probably not needed but I used them because I bought them already)
2- m5-.80 insert lock nuts
2- 5mm wave lock washers
2-m5-.80x50 hex cap screws (buy longer ones if you can, 80's would probably long enough)
2- 1/4" black hinged screw covers
2- 3/8 x.171 x1/2 nylon spacers
6-m6-1.00 insert lock nuts
6- m6-1.00x30 socket cap srews ( you can go with 4-30mm long, and 2- 20mm long)
2- 1/2 x .194 x1/4 nylon spacers
1- 3/4"x 1/8"x 36" aluminum bar

I started this before I thought about doing a how to write up. Here is the when I started cut off brackets and shortening the tubes. I shortened the tube 3/4".
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/1.jpg)

I smoothed things out with my dremel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/2.jpg)

Both sides cut down.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/4.jpg)

I then took the flat bar, and cut it to the length I needed, and drilled 3 holes in it. The holes spacing is the same as the headlight bracket spacing.  When I was done with the bar and ground the ends down to match that of the U bracket profile at the top and bottom.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/6.jpg)

Here is the brackets with the headlight brackets attached.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/7.jpg)

For the gauges I inserted a spacer so the the bolt through it would be nice and tight. I had to drill out the inside diameter to fit the bolt. Then sanded down the out side to slide into the gauges.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/8.jpg)

Since the bolts were not long enough I needed to cut the factory insert in half in order to screw the nut on the end of the bolt. Buy long bolts and save yourself the trouble. Notice the spacer in between the gauges and the triple tree.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/9.jpg)

Up top I used the wave washers and covers to hide the bolt head and keep things snug.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/10.jpg)

Here is everything mocked up in place before powder coating.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/11.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/12.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/13.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/14.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/15.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/16.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/17.jpg)

Overall I think it worked out pretty well and will look pretty sweet once it powder coated.

Here is how I did it.  Pretty similar to the first guy.  I'll be securing my clocks from underneith, and will need a short bolt or plug for the top of the triple.  I may end up just pulling the triple off, welding the hole shut, and new powdercoat.

Stock headlight bracket
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54/TheoAftonomos/DUcati%20S4Rt/stockbracket.jpg)

"lowered" headlight bracket
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54/TheoAftonomos/DUcati%20S4Rt/movedbracket.jpg)

I havn't welded aluminum in over a year, but I can still stick a piece of metal together...not my finest work, but it's getting powder coated anyway.  I need some new rol-loc pads, I had to use a carbide porting tool to scuff the surface, and then had to turn up the HF for cleaning when I welded, hence the large nickle-puddles instead of dimes.  Yup, I'm a perfectionist.  I may even cut it apart and do it again, even though no one will ever see it.
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54/TheoAftonomos/DUcati%20S4Rt/weldedbracket.jpg)

Now I'm waiting on 2 M5x40 Titanium tapered socket heads so I can put the whole thing together.  Here's a tip....A few of the "Major" suppliers had this bolt online but none in stock.  All were asking in the 10$ per bolt range.  Check your online road cycle shops....those guys like Ti more than donorcycle people do.  I got 2 Ti bolts for mounting up the gauges, and 4 more nice Ti socket caps for securing the brake master/clutch master to the bars....all for $15 shipped :)

Have a drink

(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54/TheoAftonomos/DUcati%20S4Rt/beforechop.jpg)

Then get to chopping the back half of a 15 thousand dollar bike off

(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54/TheoAftonomos/DUcati%20S4Rt/tailchop1.jpg)

i have an 07 s4rs and on ebay there's a bracket from an 2001. anyone know if this will fit mine?

[laugh]

I've done that, it's an odd feeling. I did do my by hand.

What's that you've got in the background there, looks like fun. :)

triple 9 track bike, with too many goodies for me to ride it like it should be ridden.  I need a cheap-o SV that I can wad up and laugh at.   [beer]

Good write up and pics, like the lowered look, looking forward to the mod

So, here's what I came up with for lowering the gauges/headlight with the Cycle Cat triple.

I used three different OEM fasteners: (1) the two special screws (Allen fasteners that secure the gauges), (2) the two metal fasteners with M5 threaded rod protruding from each side, and (3) the two hexagonal fasteners with a pin on one end (that fits into the plastic inserts that are pressed into the U-tube) and an M5 threaded hole on the other.

First, I used a utility knife to carve a little material from the area where the gauges rest against the bottom of the triple.  This allows the gauges to sit flush against the bottom of the triple.  In these two pictures, you can see where I cut material away.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN2180.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN2184.jpg)

Instead of the OEM plastic plugs that insert into the U-tubes, I used some stiff rubber tubing, shown on the pins above.  This allows the whole thing to be disassembled easily, provides damping, and is nevertheless sturdy when assembled.

Here is the U-tube after welding and powdercoating:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN2185.jpg)

Then I drilled 3/8" holes for M6 rivnuts (rivnuts will obviate nuts for securing the screen):
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN2186.jpg)

Rivnuts inserted:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN2189.jpg)

Now some polishing:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN2190.jpg)

With the pieces of rubber tubing inserted into the U-tube, I put a little grease on pins which are attached to the fasteners holding the guages onto the triple, and pushed upward to secure the U-tube:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN2194.jpg)

The rubber fittings allow the U-tube to be removed easily.  First, remove the two bolts from the lower triple clamp, and then pull the U-tube outward and downward.

Here you can see how an Allen bolt (and wavy washer) is used to secure the windscreen to the brackets on the U-tube.  No more difficult-to-reach nuts on the inside of the bracket.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN2195.jpg)

Here's a shot from the side with everything bolted up:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN2203.jpg)

And a shot of the cockpit:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN2204.jpg)

If nothing else, this mod cleans up the area around the top triple.  I also added (temporarily) an Al "dash" to hide the wires behind the headlight.

Side shot, before lowering:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN2154-1.jpg)
Side shot, after lowering:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN2213.jpg)

I lowered my gauge, but replaced my headlight, so I had no need for the mounting brackets.

From page one ....

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mk116v/10.jpg)

Where can I get these? Home Depot?

Cheers

got mine done today  8)
(http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs174.snc4/38030_1314102705020_1604253448_30731840_3183076_a.jpg)

+1 more
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff57/ohana181/P8050654.jpg)
 
As the fly screen replaces the headlight bucket bracket as a support
all I had to do was make a small lowering tab out of some scrap alloy.
I may lower the clocks at a later stage if I can find a cheap second hand U frame to do a complete job.

I actually put the bolt in from the bottom. I think it was 250mm long bolt. I used two nuts below the gauges to adjust the length of the bolt that stick out from the top of the triple and put an acorn nut on top. I think it looks much cleaner than the screw cap.

(http://i43.tinypic.com/np55r8.jpg)

OR

Bolt from bottom, and get (or cut) shorter bolts.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/hundredpercentkill/dmf/DSC05798.jpg)

Finished lowering the clocks

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=42960.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=42960.0)

Sorry to thread-jack....
What fly screen is that?

This one

http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/004DM/Bodywork-Carbon/004DM.html (http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/004DM/Bodywork-Carbon/004DM.html)
Says not available but Jeff should be still able to source it from Germany
  ;D

Just thought I'd add something to this as I haven't seen anyone else do it...

For those who don't have welding skills or a welder to do the job, I cut my brackets and riveted  them back on rather than having them welded. Used 3 rivets each side, one in the side, the front and the bottom... It's very solid and looks pretty neat, and requires no special skills or tools other than a drill, a rivet gun and some rivets...