Ducati Monster Forum

I linked to the Sport Classic thread a few weeks ago in CDawg's closed loop ECU mods thread.

 Here is the latest news: http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?t=49949

 It seems that someone has produced a product to fix the surging/back fireing problems most of us have been having.

 Give it a read, it might be worth it.

If you digg deep, there are plans on how to make the thing with radio shack parts.

 Sound like a He Man "how to" thread to me..........  ;)


 

HE  MANNNN. lol, i would try it, but i dont have much of a surging issue so i wouldnt know if it worked or not.  [laugh]

edit.

here the info about it.
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?t=49333
heres the info on how to build it.
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd2007HD_nbo2_volt_divide.htm

I got a PC3 on the way (this time its for an 03-06 620, found it uses the same 3M clip as the S2R800)

are we calling this a "derby's" now?

 ;)

X2

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=10988.msg187872#msg187872

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=10607.msg180482#msg180482

hmmm, anybody test it on '06 up for more then 200 miles ?!

Yes, lots & lots of bikes have logged over 200 miles and many well over a thousand. They're installed on Monsters, Hypers, ST3s, Sport Classics & Multis all with successful results.  AFR dyno data has been posted to the Fat Duc website.

I've been running it since early Sept., no issues, all goodness. It made me feel so good that I chopped my tail, made my bracket... twice, didn't like the first one, then enjoyed it some more. If a vote were held, I'd change the name from Manipulator to Smooth-r-nator. But I guess Manipulator is fine since you are cheating Ducati out of purchasing a DP ECU to solve something that should never have been an issue... DAMNED EURO3 RULES!!! [bang]

And it is my daily driver, actually my 6.5 day a week driver, the ST gets jealous.

Seeing this Surging issue keeps coming up all the Time, would it be an Idea to make a Topic Sticky about it?

it is covered by the "closed loop ECU mods" sticky i believe.

Yup, it's in the 1st post here:
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=655.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=655.0)

BUt keep the results coming and I will keep updating!

10 seconds after I posted the Sticky suggestion I noticed the ECU sticky thread at the top of the page...


(Quietly shuffles away and crawls back under rock)

No worries.  It was still a great suggestion.

My 695 is getting the engine rebuilt, but I might just order one for shits and giggles once I do the re-assemble. $80 is almost a gimme considering how much most bling on these costs anymore.

 Did the 695 even have an O2 sensor?

It does. I think the only bike that didnt have one was the S2R800

     I just put one of these on my 2007 S2R 1000 and was able to go for a short ride. Engine wise, my bike is totally stock from airbox to exhaust. I set the unit to what is supposed to be a 13.2 A/F ratio. It was probably about 75 degrees outside and dry as ever in Tucson. On startup, it hunted up and down a little (as it always has). I walked away to finish putting my gear on. When I got back the temp gauge still read "LO" and the check engine light was on solid. I was a little disappointed. I hopped on and did one loop around the block. It definitely ran smoother. I stopped to talk to my wife for a minute and noticed that somewhere on that little trip around the block the check engine light had gone off. The temp gauge now read 160 degrees. I then went out a little further through the neighborhood. The bike ran very well. I held it at what have historically been some of the more annoying RPM's (like 3800) and it did not surge. It also had a little different sound to it. When I got back it was up to 210 degrees. The check engine light never reappeared. I was very happy and am looking forward to spending more time on it tomorrow if I can get up before the rest of the family. I have two thoughts on the whole thing. Since the CEL came on, was I running in open loop the whole time? I am guessing not because it didn't stay on. #2 - who cares anyway, it ran really well and was a lot cheaper than the DP ECU and all that hoopla.  [thumbsup]
     I have a set of of stock cans that I cored out but couldn't run because the backfiring was so embarrassing. I am going to run with the normal ones for a while, then I might try those cored out ones again.

I put the FATDUC do-hickie on my 07 SR1K last week, and have only put around 10 or so miles on it since the install. When I first installed it on the bike I did notice the engine light went off (as it was lit with me un-hooking the O2).The first ride didnt show any difference then before the part was installed. Yesterday I took the bike out for alittle spin and noticed the bike wasn't popping on decell anymore (running open udder). So not sure if was the FATDUC doing its job, or the fact it was in the mid 50's yesterday ? Not sure how much riding season is left here in Chicago, but I hope to put some more miles on the bike to see what happenes..

So far so good [thumbsup]

GTA:

I'd be very interested to see how the Fat Duc works with a set of cored cans.  I'm about to install a cored set on my s2r 1K (I'm presently running with a Spark midpipe, cat and udder removed), and I'm curious what difference the cored cans will make to the airflow and if the Manipulator can compensate for it.

I have the RapidBike 02 Emulator installed and it works pretty well, but I'm thinking the Fat Duc might have more range.  Anyway, do keep us posted!

Topangster

GTA,
Be aware that the Manipulator should only work while the stock ECU is in closed loop mode.  What that means is if you use the cored cans are stay <5200RPM and <20% throttle you should be fine (according to DynoJet).  If you are in the open loop part of the map (e.g., WOT, etc...) the ECU will default to its canned map which should be lean for a set fo cored cans if they were lean before.  You'll need a RB3, PCIII, DP ECU, etc... to fix the high end.

ProTeal55,
Were you running ex-O2 sensor prior to the FatDuc?

Before the FatDuc was installed I had the O2 on my bike unplugged..

Proteal55, since you were running ex-O2 sensor, the ECU was operating in open loop mode which is likely a bit rich on the low end which may be the reason you were popping on decel yet see no realy difference in accel.  My guess is the FatDuc should fix that problem permanently (though you may need to tweak the seting)

Ver interesting!  It seems like the FatDuc is a great product!

I'm ready to try one. Installed a QuatD mid pipe, stock cans few Months ago- nice rumble, and quiet. For fun last week, I re-hooked up the o2 sensor(been unplugged for the last year). Guess what- alittle better w/ the position of the sensor in the cross over, but still crap on the low end.
Hope this helps.

I def. will say the bike felt stronger @ tollway speeds with the FATDUC installed.
Not really faster, but it seemed to pull easier/harder than with the O2 unplugged.
I wish the weather wasnt turning to crap around here so I could get some more
seat time on the bike,but that might have to wait till spring 09 [bang]
Gotta love living in the midwest..

     As a quick update, I did get out for a second ride Sunday morning. Weather was pretty much the same but slightly cooler. It ran the same as in my first report. The only thing I can add is that once again the CEL came on sometime while I was gearing up, and once again it went off shortly later. In fact, it went off at the precise moment that my engine temp went from "LO" to "160". Anyone know what that would indicate?
     Good point about the closed loop/ open loop thing. I hadn't thought about it like that. I will still give the cored cans a try, but not yet. I want to stay stock for now plus I'm still trying to get this CEL figured out.

It's a slight carbon buildup on the O2 sensor due to the richer mixture when the bike is left to sit and idle for more than a minute or two and is coupled with the effect of pushing the O2 sensor to the higher (richer) side of the waveform.  My tech confirmed this when we did some testing on the dyno.  Nothing to be concerned about, but I wouldn't let it sit and idle for 15-20 minutes at a time.