I found a pretty easy way to get a bit steeper steering angle:
1)accelrate and maintain a speed of no less than 60 mph.
2)slide bike into wall.
It really works! I'm not sure if those cracks are bad though...
(http://www.highexposures.com/cycle.jpg)
Genius! I've been looking for a way to do this.
Does this belong in "Accessories and Mods?" ;D
Yeah, that'll definitely turn in faster.
Fack. You ok, mang?
Quote from: cbrown on October 14, 2008, 10:50:32 AM
I found a pretty easy way to get a bit steeper steering angle:
1)accelrate and maintain a speed of no less than 60 mph.
2)slide bike into wall.
It really works! I'm not sure if those cracks are bad though...
(http://www.highexposures.com/cycle.jpg)
Holy shit dude, what happened? are you ok?
Very lucky... minus a bruised right nut (smashed the tank I suppose) and a silver dollar sized bit of roadrash on the hip, I'm fine. ALWAYS WEAR YOUR GEAR!
I was out for a ride and simply pushed it too far (soo retarded). Bike lowsided and front tire hit a wall.
Damage list:
Frame? ha
front wheel completely buckled
both front rotors
the forks appear to be straight
hmmmmmm what to do...............................
Quote from: cbrown on October 14, 2008, 11:03:28 AM
Very lucky... minus a bruised right nut (smashed the tank I suppose) and a silver dollar sized bit of roadrash on the hip, I'm fine. ALWAYS WEAR YOUR GEAR!
I was out for a ride and simply pushed it too far (soo retarded). Bike lowsided and front tire hit a wall.
Damage list:
Frame? ha
front wheel completely buckled
both front rotors
the forks appear to be straight
hmmmmmm what to do...............................
Avoid those walls. Glad your alright!
That looks like a manufacturer defect....
"I was just riding along and my headtube broke off" ;D
Quote from: cbrown on October 14, 2008, 11:03:28 AM
the forks appear to be straight
If you snapped the frame and taco'd the front wheel, I wouldn't be too optimistic about the forks or the triples. Either way, the bike is gonna be totalled id you go through insurance. If you're looking to salvage it on your own, also be sure to check around the engine where the engine bolts go. Those cast pieces can often crack and are easy to miss. Glad you're ok minus a bit of nut trauma.
Quote from: cbrown on October 14, 2008, 10:50:32 AM
I found a pretty easy way to get a bit steeper steering angle:
1)accelrate and maintain a speed of no less than 60 mph.
2)slide bike into wall.
It really works! I'm not sure if those cracks are bad though...
(http://www.highexposures.com/cycle.jpg)
Holey Rusted Metal!! No really, rusted metal. :P
Sheesh, glad your' relatively OK. That sucks the big one though. You thinking of parting it out? Your bike looks like it's '02 or '03 M1000. If it's just your frame and wheel that need replacing you should be able to find both for under $1k on fleabay or this board, minus labor of course.
Time for a new frame! (or modify your existing now) Hopefully something this time that doesn't have your front tire / cylinder head clearance issue you have now...
Why do the welds break like this on Ducati's? Heat Affected Zone (HAZ) due to the welding itself. (The 1995/1996 Supersports were notorious for crack welds in the HAZ affected area)
Remember that when a weld is made, you essentially have three distinct areas affected: the weld metal itself; the heat affected zone (HAZ) adjacent to the weld; and the base metal beyond the HAZ which has been unaffected by the welding operation itself.
In the HAZ area you have due to heating / cooling during the welding cycle itself, the properties of the metal change -- mostly due to crystallization and softening of the metal. Most of the time this area becomes the "weak" point between the weld itself and the unaffected original material. (as pictured in the damage above)
Unfortunately due to the time/cost and materials used (and the welding process itself) in some production environments, the issue isn't addressed as it normally isn't a problem unless severe damages occurs. (ala above) One way to eliminate the problem is via "Heat Normalizing" (via furnace) which is a process of heating all the metal and removing the stress as well as removing the HAZ area itself. Very few people actually do this last step due to cost / time issues involved during manufacturing.
Dude, that will buff right out! ;D Seriously though, glad you're ok. ^^ Mark that's a nice little tidbid on welding tech.
Maybe try JB weld? ;D
Glad you are ok!
Ditto on the glad you are OK.
Quote from: MotoCreations on October 14, 2008, 11:44:55 AM
Why do the welds break like this on Ducati's? Heat Affected Zone (HAZ) due to the welding itself. (The 1995/1996 Supersports were notorious for crack welds in the HAZ affected area)
I'm guessing the 60 MPH impact with a solid object. :P
I'm not too optimistic that the forks or triples are straight, but like I said, they sure look it. Know of a easy way to check?
I'm probably not going through insurance mainly due to the fact that this 2000 m900 has none... is it too late to get a policy!?
I assumed I would need a new frame and have a few leads on them. My existing one can't be repaired right? Seems a little sketchy to repair damage like that.
What year frames will work? 94-02?
I'm having trouble deciding on turning this into a project, selling as is, or just parting it out.
Quote from: cbrown on October 14, 2008, 01:42:06 PM
I'm not too optimistic that the forks or triples are straight, but like I said, they sure look it. Know of a easy way to check?
I'm probably not going through insurance mainly due to the fact that this 2000 m900 has none... is it too late to get a policy!?
I assumed I would need a new frame and have a few leads on them. My existing one can't be repaired right? Seems a little sketchy to repair damage like that.
What year frames will work? 94-02?
I'm having trouble deciding on turning this into a project, selling as is, or just parting it out.
Part it out! Sell me the engine [thumbsup]
Quote from: El Matador on October 14, 2008, 01:44:05 PM
Part it out! Sell me the engine [thumbsup]
I knew it would only be a matter of time before the vultures started circling!
PROJECT!! PROJECT!! As long as the geometry can be verified I don't see why a skilled welder could not repair that. Gusset it for a little extra insurance. You now get to re-invent your bike. Think of the possibilities! Check those forks out real closely. It would be a good idea to strip them and check for bent/cracked parts. If ok then maybe get a Race Tech kit and rebuild. Have a few [drink] and mull it over. Cheers!
Quote from: cbrown on October 14, 2008, 01:42:06 PM
I'm not too optimistic that the forks or triples are straight, but like I said, they sure look it. Know of a easy way to check?
If you loosen both triples, you should be able to move the forks up and down in the triples without binding. You probably need to take the front wheel off. If they bind, the forks or the triples are bent. Probably the triples. The might not work well if your steering head is bent too, which might be the case with your bike.
Normally if you take the triples off and place them on a flat surface (glass works well), you can tell if they're bent. They'll rock back n' forth if they're bent. Also, you can take a fork leg and roll it across a flat surface. See if it wobbles (like a pool cue). Often, you can look down the forks and you can see if there is a bend.
Thanks for the tech help!
Repairing the frame is possible eh? Hmmmmm..... Where in the world would I even go to get that looked at?
Quote from: somebastid on October 14, 2008, 01:02:07 PM
I'm guessing the 60 MPH impact with a solid object. :P
[laugh]
go to a bike repair shop and they can reweld the frame. I assume you dont have full coverage. cause you can jsut total the thing.
As far as replacement frames, '01 and earlier, non-S4.
At some point, there was a change in the engine bolt diameter, not sure when that was.
There may be other differences, but I think that's it.
I'd be *really* surprised if the forks are salvageable.
And definitely look very closely at the motor mount areas on the cases.
Quote from: Speeddog on October 14, 2008, 03:00:51 PM
I'd be *really* surprised if the forks are salvageable.
And definitely look very closely at the motor mount areas on the cases.
Ah ah! See, Nick, crashing pays off in long run. I done gone learned me some tech stuff. [laugh]
That blows dude ! :-X
'01 was the biginning of 12mm engine mount bolts.
Some more pics:
(http://www.highexposures.com/cycle2.jpg)
The wheel didn't completely taco. More like a soggy late night tostada. I hadn't noticed that fluid before - wonder what thats from........ :-\
(http://www.highexposures.com/cycle3.jpg)
My front fender looks crooked.
Quote from: cbrown on October 14, 2008, 04:30:59 PM
I hadn't noticed that fluid before - wonder what thats from........ :-\
It's probably brake fluid. That's not unusual when you blow out your front end. I'd give it a once over and wipe off any brake fluid with soap and water. It'll eat away paint and you might have it on some bits that you later want to salvage.
Youch. Looks like you might need to add a headlight to your list of things to replace. Not cheap. However, the brackets that hold the headlight on are only like $10. [thumbsup]
I'm willing to part out a slightly used front michelin pilot power ct. Less than 100 miles on it!
Quote from: cbrown on October 14, 2008, 04:30:59 PM
Some more pics:
(http://www.highexposures.com/cycle2.jpg)
The wheel didn't completely taco. More like a soggy late night tostada. I hadn't noticed that fluid before - wonder what thats from........ :-\
thats a bike crying
That fork looks bent to me.
And guaranteed your front axle is as well.
Come on guys........A bit of duct tape here and there and you're good to go :o
Get a hammer and tub of Bondo, and whala! a custom Monster... [thumbsup]
Glad you're OK, and May the force be with you.
Hmm - anything can be repaired, it's just a question of repair cost vs replacement and/or whether or not you want to modify the part (different frame geometry, etc.). If some bracing is added, you should end up with a frame that is stronger & straighter than the original. Definitely put a dial indicator on the axle & forks, and, as mentioned, check the motor mount areas of the motor for cracks. If there are cracks, these can be repaired as well.
Your best bet is to find a friend who owns a tig welder and owes you a big favor & feed him lots of pizza & beer. If you have to pay by the hour........................
Shit !!!!!!!!!
Could have been worse though, at least you now have the quickest steering monster in town [bang]
I have a set of stock forks that you can have.
Quote from: MendoDave on October 15, 2008, 10:53:24 AM
I have a set of stock forks that you can have.
Wow man, that's a very generous offer. Thank you. PM sent.
Quote from: MendoDave on October 15, 2008, 10:53:24 AM
I have a set of stock forks that you can have.
Bravo my man [clap]
(http://www.highexposures.com/cycle2.jpg)
(http://www.highexposures.com/cycle3.jpg)
My front fender looks crooked.
[/quote]
well, THERE is your problem...
Quote from: swerdna on October 14, 2008, 10:52:04 AM
Genius! I've been looking for a way to do this.
Does this belong in "Accessories and Mods?" ;D
I think this definitely belongs in "Tutorials". Sorry to hear what happened. I am glad you are ok and seem to be in good spirit.
I'm actually going to be parting out a 2001 M900 as it had a cracked engine mount and my buddy got a BMW instead... it's a clear title frame
If you're interested in any parts, I've probably got them. PM or email terryc34@yahoo.com works best. I'm in the north east.
I was speaking with someone else about this (who is knowledgeable) and they specifically wanted an FI frame with a hoop swingarm as they're slightly different than the earlier carbed bikes. I believe the cross tubes are in different placed on the earlier carbed bikes.
Good luck with what ever path you choose.