Ducati Monster Forum

I saw the post below stating that you can shorten the front turn signals.  What do I need to remove to do this?  I looked behind the headlight and noticed a lot of different screws.  Is there a simple way to do this mod? 

hacksaw and superglue

I am glad I can read sarcasm.  Someone might actually try that. 

I'm going to be super lazy and just re-direct you to this post. http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=12999.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=12999.0)

And here is what it winds up looking like:
(http://gallery.me.com/theo.keetell/100150/IMG_1740/web.jpg)

Yeah, I saw that post earlier and that is what peaked my interest.   I did not see the picture yet, I definately like that look better. Thanks for posting that.   My question really is about the headlight removal on the 696.  I am on paternity leave and looks like a project I can get done in between things. 

All you need to do is remove the two small nuts on the back of the headlight, one on the bottom left and right. They are attached to the rubber mounts holding the light to the fork mount. Once those are removed, gently pull the light straight up, gently wiggling it left and right. It should slide out of the pin mount holes.

There are two nuts to remove the headlight off the bike. They are located on the back of the headlight on the lower triple.
You will need to disconnect the headlight and turn signal connectors and the speedo connector (helps if you take the fairing off, either the bikini or simple). Then lift the headlight assembly out of the two mounting holes on the top triple clamp (they are rubber so it's a tight fit)

Once you have the assembly off, you will need to take off the frame from the glass piece. a few screws (can't remember but have a star-screwdriver available) and it's off. (can't remember when the plastic cover on the top comes off or if it needs to, but if you are going to paint or powdercoat, take it off at this point)

Unbolt the signals from the frame.  You will see each signal is two pieces. remove the extension and find shorter bolts [edit].

*This would be a good time to powdercoat or paint your silver frame black (looks MUCH better). Also now is the time to replace the bulbs with whiter bulbs if you want them. I used Sylvania Ultras with 4000k color temps. you will need an H1, H7 and H5W (very hard if not impossible to find-had to order from England)

Reassemble.

(OH, sure make it simple)

sorry, we must have been posting at the same time. But I provided the less informative version out of sheer laziness.

But FYI, you'll need new bolts. You can't shorten the stock bolts because there is only thread on the bottom half inch.

But yeah, if you have this completely apart, paint or powercoat...

Thanks, i'm in the middle of a move and i can't remember where my toothbrush is let alone what a bolt looks like from a few weeks ago. errr aging sucks.

Thanks for the info.  I may hold off on doing this project until it gets colder.  Still have a couple of weeks of good riding time. 

if you aren't painting or powdercoating, it's a 30 min max job. just need to get the bolts at the store in between.

Can these bulbs be found at an Auto Store or do I need to go to a specialty store? 

I decided to do this tonight but am having difficulty removing the speedo plug.  When I pull from the bottom clip, it seems that it slides down the wires and no plug is coming out.  Am I doing something wrong or is there a seperate plug inside that I can not see. 

mine was difficult, the clip isnt totally intuitive. if you have a friend or a bungy you have hang the assembly without removing the clip if you cant get it


the H1 and H7 can be had at any autostore. the h5W i had to go online for. (england even)

Well, I got it done but it took a little over an hour.  I had to hold the headlight as I did it which sucked.  One of the sides I re-did 4 times, as I could not get it as tight as I wanted.  I can still tilt it with my hand but I do not know if it will move while riding.  I tried a different screw, then loctite, and could not get it to tighten down.  I tried just the screw into the light, without mounting, and it went flush.  I have no idea why it is doing this. 

the signal has a certain length of thread and after that stops. so your bolt is too long.

The other side fit perfect.  Both bolts I used are the same size.  When I screwed the bolt into the light to check length without mounting, it went flush.  I checked this again after the light was mounted and loose the first time.  Now that it is mounted, there is the frame gap that takes up some of the room.  The bolt can't be too long.  Maybe If I added a crush washer to cinch it more? 

yes. Just add a washer. The bolt you are using is slightly longer and if you only need a couple more turns of the bolt to tighten, a washer will act as a shim.

Make sure you're not bottoming out that weird shaped blinker washer onto the blinker.  Mine bottoms out and probably going to make a washer to give it some extra thickness (headlight housing is not thick enough for the length of the blinker recess). 

Or you could save yourself all that trouble by selling your 696 and buying a new 696 from outside the USA  [thumbsup]..... I know, I'm full of useful advice  ;D

oustide the US is shorter?

yeah the stateside have wide fronts. i guess it's a requirement in one state or other so all of them have it.

i need to find the right bolts and get rid of the extensions myself.

possible to order non stateside factory ones?????

you only need the bolt. not the signal. the stateside bolt is longer and the spacer goes between the light and the signal. the euro spec has a shorter bolt and no spacer but same signal.

it's a freaking 2 dollar bolt probably but i can't find the right one. i think it's an M5x8 and i think it's the same one as the rear signals. take that one to a lowe's and buy two. take off the front light and remove the spacers.

i can just cut mine down. so theres no chance of it spinning or not fitting correct? spacer is non tapering?

i think someone tried that and it doesn't work cause the number of threads left. just take the rear bolt to lowes. all will be well after that.

It is a simple fix folks, take a file and file off a little bit of height off where the brass hole is.  After about 45 seconds of filing, it will be able to tighten completely down to where you will have no movement. Both my signals are tight and I have 5mm x 15mm allen head screws. It is the thickness of where the plastic piece seats that is causing the problem not the length of bolts.

BTW, for bolts, it is the exact same thread and length that most bicycle water bottle cage bolts are...

I used to work in a shop and had a butt load of those bolts laying around... used some of them... if you need them hit up your local bicycle shop... easiest way to find metric and a good stop pile of different head types and bolt lengths.

Or you can get them from Lowes or Home Depot. They are 5mm x .8mm thread pitch. Check the hardware section for metric hardware. Should be available at automotive stores as well as the bike shops that were mentioned.

Two of the bolts I had already taken off something else (bikini fairing? plastic tail?) worked perfectly. [drink]