Ducati Monster Forum

http://www.fatduc.com/home.html (http://www.fatduc.com/home.html)

Sounds interesting.  Does anybody have long-term experience with it?  Or is it more of a placebo?

There are a few threads already on it. I've been running with it since mid Sept. i think. I don't think about it anymore. It worked for me. I have fiddled with it by nudging it leaner/richer, but I end up back at the same magic spot. I guess the benefit of it is that since it is a variable resistance, you can find where your bike is happy at, then as you hit 4k+ it doesn't matter. But the fact that it let's you idle about at 2.5k, roll thru the power, erases the 4k dead spot... That pretty much does it.

Again, I believe Jason (Fatduc Manipulator Maker) still has a 30 day return, but I would guess that after day 1 you will know if you have things right.

Only issue I have heard is that if you had stalling problems prior to, then you should try to correct those (TPS reset, TB Synch, Bleeders), prior to installing the manipulator.

I had the same Euro3 issue with my ST3, and it cost a hell of a lot more to get it right with the DP solution ECU/Cans, so this is pretty much a good result for me to get the S2R1k pretty well set up compared to what it was stock.

BTW I'm using it in an 06 S2R1k, full arrow, stock air box, and it's black which adds 3 imaginary ponies.

I am currently running a Quat-D ExBox on my S2R1k with the DP ECU.  The bike came with the Termi, DP ECU, Airfilter kit installed.  I have had it adjusted several times.  It pops and backfires under low rpm decel.  Then the tech adjusted the DP ECU and it now surges and has a fast idle from time to time.  I would like to try the stock ECU with the O2 Manipulator.  I'm not looking for the most HP, I just want it to run smooth with this exhaust.  The only other exhaust with heel clearance are the Termi Low mounts and they are expensive.  I'm hoping this will work  so I can sell the Termi Kit.

I have a S4RS with the Exbox, stock ECU and stock airbox and it works very well.  If you want ti smooth consider adding the airbox back on.  That should solve your low-end issues

Covered here:
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=655.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=655.0)

Mine is in the mail- hope to get it soon.
My 06 s2r1k is rough below 4k, hope this fixes it- will keep you posted.
BTW- got a quat-d midpipe, stock cans, normal idle, mostly. I'm only looking to smooth out to lows and get rid of the surging at ~4k like I heard it does. 
My placebo was yanking the O2 sensor for the last year+, but then it was too rich and stinky. W/ the cat gone- it is really stinky!

As far as I know (someone else pipe in if I'm wrong/misinformed) The only adjustments on the ECU's are the Idle trim. The map is what it is. Granted the stock ECU is lean on the bottom end, and the DP ECU is supposed to fix that. My take is that in order to meet Euro3 guidelines, they must sell the bike with the stock ECU. I would be very interested to know if the DP ECU does or does not meet Euro3 specs. But the fact that it is a product that is meant for track use, that seems to me to be the way around selling something for a street bike that is not for the street.

Now tuning wise, the DP ECU should be very tunable for your set up. You may want to look into seeing how many turns out the air bleeders are, what the Trim is set to, and compare that to another bike that is running the DP setup similar to yours. You've invested in the setup that should deliver a good running bike and while you could step back to the stock unit and re-tune for it. It just seems that maybe the shop has not found the magic spot.

My only dealings with the DP setup are on my ST3s. I had to fiddle with things for a while till I found where it was happy. Mostly getting the bleeders right and adjusting the Trim along the way. Hopefully one of the more experienced tuners can give some advice here.

There is only a trim adjustment on open loop bikes (bikes without O2 sensor). Closed loop bikes can't be trimmed.


DP ECU doesn't meet the Euro emissions (or any for that matter). It is not tunable at all. It is only trimmable, but you can't program exact cells or anything, just the flat across the board trim adjustment.

desmoworks,

So do you think he would be better off going back to the stock ECU or try to find the right set up for the DP unit?

Is below the correct understanding of what's in play?

Stock ECU w/ Manipulator
The below 4k issue, the Manipulator seems to remedy that and above 4k it would be stock map with no trim adjustment. Increased chances that you run lean with after market exhaust/open air box.

DP ECU
Below 4k is addressed with the DP map. Since it is in open loop 100% of the time, the trim will optimize/effect performance of the bike overall. DP or after market exhaust is factored in along with air box mods, so results should be good.

I am another happy FatDuc customer..
I havent been able to put allot of miles on the bike since I installed it (Damn Chicago weather [bang]), but I can def. tell the
bike is running better than it was before. The bike doesnt pop anymore on decell, seems to pull harder thru the gears, etc.
I have a 07 S2R1K and am running without cans (open "udder")...

The O2 sensor works below 5500 rpm (most models) and 20% throttle. This is the closed loop portion of the system. Any of the O2 manipulators will work only in this range BUT there is a residual tuning effect where the upper RPMs are affected by the lower. So if it is richer on the bottom end the top is a little as well. But anything above 5500 and 20% is using the original map in the ECU.

The DP ECU is an entirely new map from 0 to redline. It is richer all the way across the board - not just in the closed loop area. You can trim these ECUs - often we take fuel out of them, but sometimes they are correct or slightly lean.

 [laugh] [laugh]

Whats so funny?

Can someone confirm that this is where I should connect the Fatduc manipulator once I get it? I followed a wire from the exhaust to this connector located in front of the rear cylinder. This is on a '08 S2R1K
(http://img.skitch.com/20090518-mtbjqs86yb2rkwx1ngf723cqyb.preview.jpg) (http://img.skitch.com/20090518-mtbjqs86yb2rkwx1ngf723cqyb.jpg)

I disconnected this connector and when I started up the bike the yellow engine lamp lighted up right away. Took the bike for a real short ride and it felt kinda different - not stuttering as much in low rpm's.. Chicken as I am I connected the thing right away though :-\

If that's the line that runs from your O2 sensor then yes, that's the one.  I have an 08 S2R1K as well and had to re-route the line up and to the right of the rear shock and down the right side of the frame.  The manipulator control sits perfectly in that space between the cylinders. 

I should add that once you get it hooked up, there's a good chance your check engine light will blink on and off intermittently.  I e-mailed Jason at FatDuc and he said that has occurred during testing and appears to be a side effect of the manipulator and the ECU .  It usually comes on a couple minutes after you start riding and will stay lit for a few minutes before going out.  I've had it come on and off 3 or 4 times during a 30-minute period, then stay off.  Other times it doesn't even come on.  It has no effect on performance, so I just ignore it now.

First I've heard of that. I've got probably +6 thousand or so miles with the FatDuc on. No issues, heck I forget most times that I added it when someone asks what mods I've done.

I don't have nearly as many miles on my scoot with the FatDuc on, but my engine light hasnt came on since the install of the FatDuc..

Thanks for the info  [thumbsup] Was your connector placed where mine is before you connected the manipulator? And why did you have to reroute the cable?

Yes, my connector was in that space on the left side.  I re-routed the line to get the manipulator out of the way yet still easy to access for adjustments.  You may be able to run it on the left side, but I think it left it more exposed when connected. 
     As for the check engine light issue, I guess the chance of it occurring with your bike is low depending on how rich you have it set.  Mine is currently set halfway between the richest and leanest setting; I may try to lean it out a little bit to see if it fixes the problem.  Here is what Jason at FatDuc wrote:

"Yes, we have experienced this during product development and in normal use.  The occasional check engine light is most likely due to excess carbon build up on the O2 Sensor.  Only a very small percentage of bikes (including mine) have exhibited this side effect when the variable trimmer is set towards the richer side.  Each individual bike is somewhat different due to normal manufacture's and part suppliers tolerances.  The carbon build happens after extended periods of idling or after extended periods of cruising.  It should go away after revving the motor and clearing of the sensor off with the hot exhaust gases.  One thing we learned when my Ducati tech was dynoing/testing the product is it does run a bit richer at idle than it does during normal operation.  He wasn't concerned about it, but you wouldn't want to let your bike sit and idle for long, long periods at a time (30 - 40+ minutes).  You could try to set the variable trimmer slightly leaner to see if the CEL comes on less frequently, but you want to make very small adjustments on the trimmer and ride for a couple of days.  You'll want to find the leanest setting on the O2 Manipulator that still eliminates the surging and other lean fueling problems."

Good luck and let us know how you like it once you get it hooked up.

Got my Fatduc O2 manipulator in the mail  tuesday - man that was fast! 2! working days from order to delivery in Sweden [bow_down]  Installed it right away and rode with 'factory settings' (mine was set at about 13.4:1) for about 70 miles on tuesday and wednesday. Huge difference! It was totaly ok between 3-4k rpms - before it would stutter like crazy. It was even rideable down to 2.5k but with some stuttering. Plus exhaust pops were almost completely gone.
But... today the stuttering was back, and the pops - not as bad as before but ..  :-\
Is this 'normal' (has this happened to anyone else) - and does this mean I should go even richer?

Edit: ..and by the way, no 'check engine light' with the Fatduc so far

The past two days every once in awhile when I start the bike the engine light will come on after about 5 min of riding. If I shut the bike off and restart it the light is gone ?