2006 S2R1000.
I've been experiencing worse and worse front brake pulse for the last 2k miles. At first it was just a little, but now it is pretty bad.
First thought, warped rotors. On the stand it didn't look bad, but I took the wheel off anyways.
I have a stand that we use to true up spoked wheels and I put the wheel on that. Set up some dial indicators and spun it.
It had a little movement in it, but it was the same for both rotors. I also measured the wheel itself, it was the same as the rotors.
So I felt confident that the rotors were good. Put the wheel back on, torqued everything down, and...
the pulse is still there.
Any ideas?
Under light or hard braking? Low speed or high speed?
I'd scuff up the pads and clean and scuff the rotors with brake cleaner and scotchbrite pads and then bed the brakes again..
Quote from: Spidey on December 02, 2008, 04:46:03 PM
Under light or hard braking? Low speed or high speed?
I can feel it at low speed. But it does get expodentially worse at higher speeds.
Quote
I'd scuff up the pads and clean and scuff the rotors with brake cleaner and scotchbrite pads and then bed the brakes again..
How should the wear on the pads look? Mine are kind of tapered right now.
Quote from: wbeck257 on December 02, 2008, 04:50:07 PM
I can feel it at low speed. But it does get expodentially worse at higher speeds.
How should the wear on the pads look? Mine are kind of tapered right now.
Pads will always wear more at the leading edge.
Try cleaning everything and bedding the brakes.
Good info here (http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml)
Well, unless there are hard spots or contaminates on the rotors it is most likely warped rotors. I went thru all the procedures as a long shot (I knew they were warped from past experience) and nothing. As soon as I replaced them, S M O O T H.... [moto]
Quote from: hypurone on December 03, 2008, 06:15:46 AM
Well, unless there are hard spots or contaminates on the rotors it is most likely warped rotors. I went thru all the procedures as a long shot (I knew they were warped from past experience) and nothing. As soon as I replaced them, S M O O T H.... [moto]
I'm almost 100% confident that they aren't warped.
I've measured them in about 10 diferent ways. No indication of them being warped.
Last night I even put the bike on its stand and measured the distance from the rotor and the forks in 15 spots. Same distance, both side. I did the same thing on the wheel. So it is on straight.
Quote from: ducpainter on December 03, 2008, 06:07:32 AM
Pads will always wear more at the leading edge.
Try cleaning everything and bedding the brakes.
Good info here (http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml)
What about vertically?
And thanks for the link...
Maybe hot spots, for the price of stock ebay rotors, I'd try a new set & then pitch the old ones if it goes away.
Quote from: wbeck257 on December 03, 2008, 06:33:48 AM
What about vertically?
And thanks for the link...
I suppose if the pads didn't move freely on the retaining pins they could wear more on the bottom.
My monster tends to wear inside pads faster than outside...
If you have doubts about the pads clean up all the pieces and put in a new set...they're not that expensive...relatively. ;D
No problem.
Quote from: Norm on December 03, 2008, 06:44:08 AM
Maybe hot spots, for the price of stock ebay rotors, I'd try a new set & then pitch the old ones if it goes away.
You tomato, I say tomahto... same thing. [cheeky]
Sometimes the buttons will freeze up - mine did it one time after washing it at a car wash - maybe a harsh soap there? You can use a screwdriver or something to 'exercise' them and sometimes that will cure it. If you are VERY careful not to get any on the rotors or use too much so it won't run, some wd40 or some type of light lube on the buttons will let them move easier and keep them from freezing up again.
Quote from: Bill in OKC on December 03, 2008, 02:53:54 PM
Sometimes the buttons will freeze up - mine did it one time after washing it at a car wash - maybe a harsh soap there? You can use a screwdriver or something to 'exercise' them and sometimes that will cure it. If you are VERY careful not to get any on the rotors or use too much so it won't run, some wd40 or some type of light lube on the buttons will let them move easier and keep them from freezing up again.
If you really want to clean up the buttons, find an old allen wrench that is the size to fit in one, cut off the shorter bent part and put it in an electric drill. Then spin the button while spraying a bit of WD-40. The buttons will clean up nicely that way. After all that, wash everything to get rid of any traces of the WD-40. That will clean up any alignment issue.
Isn't the S2R1000 a semi-floating rotor, IE no buttons?
Semi floating rotors have buttons.
And they should spin?
Maybe I just don't understand how semi, or normal floating rotors work...
Quote from: wbeck257 on December 04, 2008, 05:39:24 PM
And they should spin?
Maybe I just don't understand how semi, or normal floating rotors work...
The buttons on a semi floating rotor have the clearance to spin, bit don't do so easily because of the wave washer on the back side..
The full floating buttons will spin easily.
Ah okay, that is where I got confused.
I'd go clean them now -- but my friends used up all my brake cleaner setting shi... cleaning stuff... yeah.
I tried scotchbrite pads -- but probably need brake cleaner too.
Also the ground it cold and wet, and I already tucked the front on the peddle bike today.
I've been experiencing the same thing but only at very low speeds, typically when I approach a stop light/stop sign. I must say that it is very annoying because it makes me feel like a newbie that doesn't know how to modulate a front brake steadily.. Are warped discs visible to the naked eye or is it something that is felt rather than seen just by spinning on a stand? Some help would be greatly appreciated.
Since the blades move on the carrier runout can't be measured with the rotor assembled. Follow the tips above, in particular, that the blades move on the carriers. If you feel brave and have good aim with a hammer ask Norm about his $0 full floater mod.
Quote from: howie on February 20, 2009, 03:59:05 AM
Since the blades move on the carrier runout can't be measured with the rotor assembled. Follow the tips above, in particular, that the blades move on the carriers. If you feel brave and have good aim with a hammer ask Norm about his $0 full floater mod.
i tried that once...or started to, rather...but gave up after about 10 minutes banging on one button with no progress, and ringing ears because i decided to do it in my loft :-\
I do it to all my bikes that have stock rotors.
maybe i just need.... a bigger hammer.
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on February 20, 2009, 05:22:42 AM
maybe i just need.... a bigger hammer.
You actually need to hit them pretty hard.
you may have inspired me to break out that socket and hammer and block of wood once again...
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on February 20, 2009, 05:59:26 AM
you may have inspired me to break out that socket and hammer and block of wood once again...
Where are you using the block of wood?
i had put the rotor on the block of wood... "outside" facing down, so that the correct socket size (can't remember offhand) fit perfect on the inside to bash the washer flat from the inside, in a nutshell. does that sound right?
and so that this isn't a threadjack....does a full floating rotor offer better benefits as far as even wear compared to semi-float? it does, right?
More than you ever wanted to know about eliminating brake pulsing:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml (http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml)
Quote from: ScottRNelson on February 20, 2009, 08:13:50 AM
More than you ever wanted to know about eliminating brake pulsing:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml (http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml)
Both ScottRNelson's and ducpainter's links have some great information!
From the sounds of it, I had the same problem on my monster, pulsing. Disks weren't warped. Once I bed the pads in it all went away and the front brakes seemed to have more bite.
We even had the pulsing on my wife's car. Normally I would have replaced the rotors. This time I bed the brakes in and the pulsing went away.
My s4rs rotors' buttons do not move at all... is there a how-to for this "modification" to full floating
found a how to..
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=1818.15 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=1818.15)
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on February 20, 2009, 07:49:01 AM
i had put the rotor on the block of wood... "outside" facing down, so that the correct socket size (can't remember offhand) fit perfect on the inside to bash the washer flat from the inside, in a nutshell. does that sound right?
and so that this isn't a threadjack....does a full floating rotor offer better benefits as far as even wear compared to semi-float? it does, right?
That's not right.
You need a 19mm socket around the outside of the large diameter of the button supporting both the carrier and the blade. Then you hit the button on the back side hard. That will flatten the wave washer and free the button.
Quote from: ScottRNelson on February 20, 2009, 08:13:50 AM
More than you ever wanted to know about eliminating brake pulsing:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml (http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml)
..and Scott is absolutely correct. I can't remember how many times I've posted the same link. Correct pad bedding is the single most important aspect of good brake performance.
I don't float rotors to eliminate pulsing, although it will help to mask minor problems. I do it because I think it also improves brake feel.
Oh -- and BTW, I got new pads.
And everything is fine..
Thanks everyone.
so the new pads really did away with all the pulsing? because if that is the case, I'm replacing mine tomorrow..
Quote from: ducpainter on February 20, 2009, 05:22:14 PM
That's not right.
You need a 19mm socket around the outside of the large diameter of the button supporting both the carrier and the blade. Then you hit the button on the back side hard. That will flatten the wave washer and free the button. ..and Scott is absolutely correct. I can't remember how many times I've posted the same link. Correct pad bedding is the single most important aspect of good brake performance.
I don't float rotors to eliminate pulsing, although it will help to mask minor problems. I do it because I think it also improves brake feel.
yeah, that's basically what i was doing...i had the rotor face down on a piece of wood, and the socket on the washer on the back side to attempt to flatten it out. i think i was doing it right, just not with enough force.
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on February 22, 2009, 03:58:40 PM
yeah, that's basically what i was doing...i had the rotor face down on a piece of wood, and the socket on the washer on the back side to attempt to flatten it out. i think i was doing it right, just not with enough force.
That's wrong.
The socket goes underneath the rotor/carrier.
There need be no wood involved.
The large diameter of the button needs to be in the socket.
You use the force of the small diameter of the button against the washer to flatten it when you hit the button itself on the small diameter.
wbeck257, if you've put on new pads, make sure you take some steel wool (med) and rub down your rotors. If the previous pads were bedded that poorly (probable) they likely left deposits on the rotor, and grooved it a little too. You can't do anything about the grooving, but you need to clean the rotors up.