When removing the belts during a valve adjustment is there any trick to prevent the vertical cylinder intake cam from snapping shut? If not, how would I reset the cam open? I have that fancy tool from LT that keeps the cams in place during belt removal but wouldn't think it can be used during a valve adjustment because you need to rotate cams.
Quote from: ghostface on December 22, 2008, 07:03:50 AM
When removing the belts during a valve adjustment is there any trick to prevent the vertical cylinder intake cam from snapping shut? If not, how would I reset the cam open? I have that fancy tool from LT that keeps the cams in place during belt removal but wouldn't think it can be used during a valve adjustment because you need to rotate cams.
Sounds like the vertical cyl is not at TDC on the compression stroke (I assume that the 4V is like the 2V, you have the horiz cyl at TDC when the timing marks are aligned). When you do the valve check/adjust on the vert cyl, you will need to rotate the engine (I think 270*) until it is at TDC on the vert cyl, which will remove the pressure on the cams.
When I did my valves, I worked on the horiz cyl first, removing just the belt for that cyl. When I was completely finished with the horiz cyl, I reinstalled the belt, then rotated the engine to get the vert cyl at TDC, then removed the belt for the vert cyl. When finished with the vert cyl valves, I again reinstalled the belt for that cyl, and then I rotated the engine back to the timing marks (horiz cyl at TDC), locked everything in place, then removed the old belts and installed the new belts. Again, this was on a 2V, I haven't yet worked on a 4V engine but I assume the principles are the same.
No particular trick to keep the intake cam in position when removing the belts.
You could use your fancy tool, but there's no need.
As long as the dot on the cam drive pulley on the cases is lined up with the hashmark, the vertical intake parts won't hit anything.
I do all of the valve clearance stuff with both belts off.
Just have to make sure all the valves are closed before rotating the crank.
Make sure the piston is at TDC for whichever head you're working on, BEFORE you remove a closer shim.
Well I started diggin in the motor tonight. I disassembled everything so I can access the valves. This is gonna be mad and calls for a new thread. [coffee]
I've just done my 40000km service and I know exactly what you're talking about.
What I did was to rotate the intake cam with a 5mm hex socket attached to a power or T bar. Don't use a ratchet! The hex socket is fitted into one of the screws inside the cam wheel. This allows you to turn the cam and hold it in any position.
Stopped by Ca-Cycleworks and picked Chris Kelleys' brain for about an hour. Cool dude. Inspired by all the chat, I checked my valves last night and they're seriously too tight. 25,000 mile S4 motor. Zero clearances on 5 closers, and 3 opening rockers have galling. I buttoned everything back up (I'm working in an underground parking garage behind my car) and cleaned every bolt. I started at 8 PM and didn't hit the pillow until 3 AM and slept for only 3 hours. Besides that been hitting the
Will pull her back apart and get the rockers out over the next 2 weeks. Even though the results suck, things will get better and at least I have a base to start with.
Quote from: ghostface on December 24, 2008, 01:52:32 PM
I checked my valves last night and they're seriously too tight. 25,000 mile S4 motor. Zero clearances on 5 closers, and 3 opening rockers have galling.
Seems odd that the closers are at zero clearance, since the closer clearances tend to increase as the valve seat wears. Bummer about the openers....
Quote from: Ivan on December 24, 2008, 04:02:11 PM
Seems odd that the closers are at zero clearance, since the closer clearances tend to increase as the valve seat wears. Bummer about the openers....
Your telling me.
According to the mathematics this is correct. Subtracting the opener unloaded clearance from the loaded clearance equalled zero.
Also, when pressing the closhing shim, there was minimal movement, not even the minute "click" felt and heard with the other closers.
I read in the LT Desmoquattro manual some people actually set their clearance to zero.