my 696 has 3 issues.
1 - runs hot it has gone to 6 bars on 75-80 degree day in west la traffic splitting lanes on the surface streets and on freeway in 100-105 degrees going up hill to high desert. ign. wires corrected before these rides. dealer says not to ride in hot weather100+.but problem still comes up on cooler days in traffic.
2-engine light comes on due to wire pinching says dealer .thought they had that one done but its come back.
3-rear brake squeal that drives my son nuts when he goes on rides with me .
mainly i think this forum may be good to say to the dealer that i am not the only one with these problems as they say i am. it may be good to put together data to go to ducati with.
i bought the termi ss exhaust to see if the richer ecu would make a differance .it poped out the intake before and out the exhaust after so the mixture has changed with no effect to the cooling issue.but it sure sounds saweeet.
Did you read this thread?
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=16868.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=16868.0)
I did read that but if mine only went to 5 bars I would be happy
Let me correct my self ,the indicator went to 7 bars the next one they tell me shuts off the bike
I have only one piece of advice for you:
Take your bike to a different dealer.
Don't tell them you you brought the bike to another dealer, so that they work on the bike without any prejudices, and they start off with a clean plate.
This way, they might look at the coil wires, and see if they were done wrong by your dealer.\
BC.
Quote from: DAYS OF GLORY PAST on December 28, 2008, 11:07:05 AM
my 696 has 3 issues.
1 - runs hot it has gone to 6 bars on 75-80 degree day in west la traffic splitting lanes on the surface streets and on freeway in 100-105 degrees going up hill to high desert. ign. wires corrected before these rides. dealer says not to ride in hot weather100+.but problem still comes up on cooler days in traffic.
2-engine light comes on due to wire pinching says dealer .thought they had that one done but its come back.
3-rear brake squeal that drives my son nuts when he goes on rides with me .
mainly i think this forum may be good to say to the dealer that i am not the only one with these problems as they say i am. it may be good to put together data to go to ducati with.
i bought the termi ss exhaust to see if the richer ecu would make a differance .it poped out the intake before and out the exhaust after so the mixture has changed with no effect to the cooling issue.but it sure sounds saweeet.
definitely get the coil wires checked. that sounds exactly like my bike.
brake squeal isn't really a problem just a quirk. there are ways to fix it, search the forum i've seen lots of advice on it.
I agree on the strong possibility of reversed coil polarity. You say the wires were corrected before the rides. Are you sure or are you taking the dealer's word for this? The "pinched wire" problem I cannot comment on, but the dealer telling you not to ride in hot weather is ridiculous. If possible, go to another dealer. Either way, DNA needs to know about this.
according to pro italia they found and corrected the ign problem and also the pinched wire but if i sit forward the light comes back on and off if pushing on the rear of the seat
Quote from: Raux on December 28, 2008, 03:16:39 PM
brake squeal isn't really a problem just a quirk. there are ways to fix it, search the forum i've seen lots of advice on it.
Use your brake really hard for a few hundred miles, you need to get a couple of layers off. Practice emergency braking. Mine went away after 2k of normal use. There are other ways as noted, but all with varying success. Best solution I've read is to replace pads with organic.
Bike stalled at almost every stop today.
80*F, low humidity
Full DP kit.
???
I got 2 of your problems too. (coil issue checked and OK)
The bike runs real hot, also up to 6 bars, after maybe 15 mins stop n' go traffic (25 C outside temp). My dealer told me stop for cooling down when reaching 6 bars. Actually I have no other choice anyway, since the heat from the vertical cylinder roasts my left thigh to ash while standing.
Seems just a bit weird to me since the bike is announced and promoted for urban use !?
Recently the situation seemed a bit improved, maybe due to break in (now 1200 km) or lower air temps (15 C).
Has anyone else found oil temps decreasing over the first few hundred miles? Guess I have to wait until spring to see what's up and if I need an oil cooler. However I'm a bit reluctant spending money to compensate for poor initial enineering. For my understanding any air cooled engine should NOT tend to self destruct when running idle without outside air flow (convection should do) - or maybe I'm a safety freak. Hmm ???
Yep, rear breaks are noise, hope that problems solves itself over time....
Another issue I have is some kind of shaking when accelerating in an rpm range from 3~4k, maybe just is the often mentioned not so smooth rpm range < 4k...
I have a feeling some dealers are not dealing so well with the coil issues.
You can test for correct polarity of the ignition coil by using an analog voltmeter. Connect the negative lead to the (-) negative terminal and the positive lead to a good ground.
Crank the engine over (do not start it) and the needle of the voltmeter should swing to the positive. The reading doesn't matter. If volt meter swings towards negative, your coil is hooked up backwards. To correct the polarity, simply reverse coil primary leads.
Reverse polarity causes misfire under load, and why it causes higher than normal temperatures on the 696, well, I'm not sure, but it could be the computer going lean trying to adjust for the misfire.
Quote from: MotoMoto on January 03, 2009, 08:40:19 AM
I got 2 of your problems too. (coil issue checked and OK)
The bike runs real hot, also up to 6 bars, after maybe 15 mins stop n' go traffic (25 C outside temp). My dealer told me stop for cooling down when reaching 6 bars. Actually I have no other choice anyway, since the heat from the vertical cylinder roasts my left thigh to ash while standing.
Seems just a bit weird to me since the bike is announced and promoted for urban use !?
Recently the situation seemed a bit improved, maybe due to break in (now 1200 km) or lower air temps (15 C).
Has anyone else found oil temps decreasing over the first few hundred miles? Guess I have to wait until spring to see what's up and if I need an oil cooler. However I'm a bit reluctant spending money to compensate for poor initial enineering. For my understanding any air cooled engine should NOT tend to self destruct when running idle without outside air flow (convection should do) - or maybe I'm a safety freak. Hmm ???
Yep, rear breaks are noise, hope that problems solves itself over time....
Another issue I have is some kind of shaking when accelerating in an rpm range from 3~4k, maybe just is the often mentioned not so smooth rpm range < 4k...
that's interesting. but the two situations you are describing, the high heat and suttering during accel, sound exactly like the coil situation.
Yep, after reading all the info in the forum I also thought it must be the coil issue, but two dealers here insisted that my 696, built in September '08 is not affected by the coil issue anymore. I kept complaining and insisting until finally my dealer agreed and we opened it up - finding correct wiring for both cylinders (acc. to the pdf instruction posted in the coil issue thread). Leaving me a bit disappointed since I was pretty sure about the coil issue and hoping for a quick solution of my problems...
Dealers here don't charge for working time, so it's usually a bit of an effort to get them fixing something that is not obviously broken.
Not sure if possibly the other end of the wires could be reversed?
If the problems remain, I might check it myself with the volt meter as described.
If nothing helps, maybe I can get used to the thought to spend all that money for the Termis & oil cooler somewhen this year.
yeah that's frustrating. but once my bike was fixed i was riding in 100F weather and not above 4 bars.
QuoteNot sure if possibly the other end of the wires could be reversed?
If the problems remain, I might check it myself with the volt meter as described.
Yes, that's very simple to do and only takes a couple of minutes and will answer the question once and for all. It's a basic test - I have an old old International 6 cylinder and that's the exact same procedure recommended for checking coil polarity on it.
AFAIK, the dealers would know by serial number. It seems both the bikes with reverse polarity and the ones that are correct match the wiring diagram, so the problem is probably in the harness itself.
Another easy test is just reverse the wires at the coils and see if the problem goes away.
Thanks Howie I will test it myself. I like having a concrete test. I found out the oil cooler is $500. and I would hate to think I would have to pay for ducatis design issues.
My bike was stalling at almost every stop today. I set the cold idle switch up a bit to keep the RPM's around 1k when not moving. She just didn't want to idle normally today. [coffee]
This seems like very strange problems. Overheating is often attributed to lean running, and enriching the mix should help the issue to some extent.
I wonder if the cam timing stock isn't a few degrees too advanced....
The thing is, you shouldn't have to put on aftermarket parts for this, and in this US of A, if you bring a bike in for a given issue three times without repairs effected adaquately, you have the right to lemon law the vehicle for a full refund of purchase price. I'd strongly advise mentioning this on the second visit. In Cali, bring the number to a lemon lawyer with you, and when the dealer denies you can lemon law bikes, ask them to please call the lawyer and tell them that. As it's not true. Bikes can be lemon lawed, ask Aprilia.