Ducati Monster Forum

Changing the Fuel filter on a 07 S2R 800, I assume this will be similar on the S2R 1000, maybe somebody wiser than myself could post a reply and advise how many different models this would suit, anyway on with the show.

You will need:
Flat blade Screw driver (long and thin would be a good Idea)
Socket set and Allen drivers (Allen keys will work, but the Socket set and allen drivers make it easier)
Wire cutters (for any Zip ties that are in the way)
Zip ties (To replace any cut zip ties)
Needle nose pliers
Nice long Extension for your socket set (Not essential, but makes life easier)
Fuel Filter (Thanks Desmo times)
Hose clamps (I used 1 x 40mm to 65mm and 2 x 6mm to 16mm from Tridon)
Lots of old cloths/rags and 2 x Soft towels (Don't raid the linen cupboard, they may get fuel on them)
A full bucket of water (Just in case a rouge spark starts a fire)

(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/SpankyMK/Fuel%20Filter%20S2R%20800/DSC01339.jpg?t=1230979403)

OK, Go for a long ride and get that tank empty, I went for a long ride this morning, kept going until the fuel light came on and then I rode another 30km's after that, this ensured that there was almost no fuel in the tank.
DO NOT RUN YOUR TANK DRY!!   YOU RISK DAMAGING/DESTROYING YOUR FUEL PUMP!!
If you can't go for a ride, get a fuel safe container and siphon the fuel out of the tank..

Next, place your bike on stands (if you have them) this will make the bike easier and more stable to work on.
Now remove your seat and place that somewhere out of the way so it won't get damaged.
Ignore the wire cutters in the photo, I was removing some zip ties before gently lowering the Tank down onto the waiting towels
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/SpankyMK/Fuel%20Filter%20S2R%20800/DSC01325.jpg?t=1230979822)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/SpankyMK/Fuel%20Filter%20S2R%20800/DSC01324.jpg?t=1230980048)
Nice solid front and rear stands from Anderson Stands Australia. makes life much easier when servicing or...... Replacing fuel filters

Gad damn my Garage is a mess, I really should clean it up!  :P

Anyway, back to the show!  ;D

Lower the tank back onto the towels, while tilting the tank back ensure your not stretching any fuel or vent pipes or power leads.
Unplug the power lead to the fuel pump (Centre right of Photo)
Remove the Inlet and outlet pipes, this is where the long this flat blade screw driver comes in handy, I used the tip of the flat blade in between the alloy pipe protruding from the alloy base and the little clips on each side of the pipe connection, gently prise them out and clear of the alloy base.
Be gentle, they are plastic and easy to bend out of shape or break.
Get those rags/cloths out, some fuel will spill from the lines and the housing/tank
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/SpankyMK/Fuel%20Filter%20S2R%20800/DSC01328.jpg?t=1230980178)

It should now look like this,

(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/SpankyMK/Fuel%20Filter%20S2R%20800/DSC01329.jpg?t=1230981352)

Remove the Vent lines, this is a personal thing, I just found this made access easier to remove the plate from the tank, you will notice the nipples on the left of the tank in this photo. (below)
(Ignore the LEDS on the left and right of the photo, This bike has a LED kit, purely for wank value!)  ;)
Remove the six (6) Allen head bolts holding the plate in place (4mm allen head bolts) again have some cloths/rags nearby to catch any spilled fuel when you lift out the fuel pump assembly

(Might I add, if you haven't already, put your cigarette out, it could get kind of crispy if you don't)

(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/SpankyMK/Fuel%20Filter%20S2R%20800/DSC01337.jpg?t=1230981525)

This photo shows the fuel pump/filter assy sitting on my work bench, I have replaced the filter with a Napa filter, you will notice the plastic OEM filter sitting on the bench.
Some Points to note:
* The OEM filter has a small plastic threaded tab in which a screw attaches it to the assembly, I cut this off and
   reattached it to the housing, as this screw is a vital earth point for the pump and the low fuel light. (You can
   see the tab just to the right of the Hose clamp, Yes, with a bloody big arrow pointing at it!!)

* The OEM fuel line clips are almost impossible to remove without destroying them, I used 2 Tridon hose clamps 
   to replace them at each end of the filter, I was assured at the parts store being stainless steel they should be
   safe to use in the fuel tank (I found out later that Lt Snyder of Desmo times does the same thing apparently)

* Check the housing's large O ring to make sure it is not flattened or nicked/damaged, mine appeared OK and 
   upon reinstall I had no leaks.

* While the assembly is out check all the lines and connections for wear or cracking

(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/SpankyMK/Fuel%20Filter%20S2R%20800/DSC01333.jpg?t=1230982233)

The Napa filter has no mounting tab, so I used a hose clamp to attach it to the Assembly, here is a photo from the reverse side of the pump assembly.
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/SpankyMK/Fuel%20Filter%20S2R%20800/DSC01336.jpg?t=1230982690)

While I had the tank open I removed the last of the fuel and wiped out any remaining grit or rubbish I could spot

I reinstalled the Fuel pump/filter assembly, Made sure to check and then double check all connections, I had one little leak from the outlet plastic plug after I plugged it into the base, I had not seated the little clips correctly, clipped them in all the way and no more leaks.

I then took the bike for a ride to fill up the tank (I only put 2 liters back in when I put it back down), I checked the bottom of the tank to ensure no leaks while out and about just to be safe.

Final note: The Fuel pump now has a lower pitch note and is quieter, after consulting with Lt Synder of Desmotimes, he said it is quite normal for the pump as it works harder (EG: Dirty filter) it's pitch will rise and it will get louder.
When I put clean fuel back through the original filter the fuel that came out the intake side was very dirty.
It has done 15000km's with our shitty fuel up here in northern Australia, so it has done well!

I hope this helps!  [thumbsup]

Hey CairnsDuc!  Thanks for the great post!  I've been looking for a How to on fuel filters for some time and was very glad to see yours!  I gotta change mine too.  Unfortunately I believe mine is different... :-\ I've have a 05M1000s, and when I compared the spare parts catalog with the 07 S24 800 not only the fuel delivery diagrams are different the fuel filter part numbers didn't match.

I'm just waiting for my tank to go on reserve, then I'll tackle the fuel filter myself.  In the meantime hopefully I'll find a post on the M1000s.  With the way NYC weather is going these days, I'm sure it will take me another few weeks to empty that tank...

Again, thanks for the post.  Although it didn't directly work for me, it's was very well explained and I'm sure very helpful to other S2R owners!

Take care [thumbsup]

Anderson

woot! thanks for posting this! i will attempt this sometime this week as well.   [thumbsup]

wow, thank goodness for posting the pix... i had to double check because i installed the fuel filter backwards!

Happy it's help's somebody, I got tired of waiting for someone else to do it and put up a post about it, so I thought I'd give it a go, and at least if I stuff it up, you can see how not to do it!  ;D

But it all turned out OK.  [thumbsup]

Hey, thanks spanky.  I just used your instructions to change the fuel filter on my 695, and they were perfect.  There was a good tablespoon of dirty water lurking in the bottom of the tank, too.

Happy to help, I changed my filter again just before I sold the bike and sent it off to it's new owner at the other end of the country.
Still amazes me how much shit and grit collects in the bottom of the tanks.  :o

"A full bucket of water (Just in case a rouge spark starts a fire)"

FTR, if you have a fuel fire, DO NOT throw water on it.  You want to use dry chemical or CO2.

That is all.

I followed the above tutorial. thank you for that!

One step that was not clear to me was that tab on the stock fuel filter. I cut the tab on fuel filter, left it connected to the screw, and placed the hose clamp so that they were right on top of each other.

Does this look right?
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6147/5988313218_7d9181f431_m.jpg)

another angle that shows the directional arrow pointing in the same direction as the stock fram filter.
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6131/5988312838_8e65f16fbd_m.jpg)

One thing I recommend is taking the tank off the bike. That way you don't have to worry about running the fuel quite so low. Note where the vent hoses run, pull the pin from the tank hinge, flip the tank back-end-up, nose to the ground. You can safely remove the pump assembly with spare volume for fuel.

Alternatively, just get a hand siphon and drain the tank down.  I can get it down to about 2-3 tblspoons of gas left in about 10-15 minutes now.

Nice write-up.  How often should the fuel filter be replaced?

P.S. I have about 3,500 miles now and it's a 2007 S2R800.  The fuel filter has never been replaced.  If it's not based on mileage, how can I tell?  Should I replace it now?

Thanks for this post. Like Betlog, I've got to ask - how often should the fuel filter be replaced?

can we make this a sticky ?

thanks for the great write up

This was useful as I've just replaced my filter and it was helpful to see someone else do it. [thumbsup]

One note, you dont need a screwdriver to release the fuel lines from the alloy baseplate, simply squeeze that plastic ring at 90 degrees to the plastic lugs and they will spring out and then they'll easily pull away.
Same set up as a medicine cap.

Nice write up Spanky, thanks for the detailed walk through of the procedure. However I personally am not a fan of the hose clamps in this type of application. The screw type hose clamps used typically have a fixed radius under the threaded section which cannot change as the internal diameter decreases on tightening which could translate to uneven clamping of the fuel line onto the filter barbs and potententially result in leaking and a reduction in fuel delivery pressure. The OEM clamps are just 'Ear' clamps and are readily available from automotive parts shops like Repco and maybe even hydraulics places like Enzed for about 70 cents each. Oetiker is one of the big names in these clamp systems and 10.9mm is the size you'll need for your 800 S2R and probably most others. A set of cheap nail pincers from Bunnings work just fine as crimpers or even side cutters will do the job, and the benefit is an OEM like result with reliable clamping.

cheers

Harry   

So I broke the two fuel pipe connectors...  :(

Any advise on Where is the best place for replacement?  Dealer or aftermarket options?

Zyme    did you get an answer to this ?
those connectors look likely to snap so i may as well be prepaired
cheers

Maybe I'm misunderstanding something here.  Doesn't Reply # 16 answer the question, unless you are asking about the pump housing plate fitgs.?  If so, I would think you would have to do a bit of extra work to break those.

Reply #16 only deals with the clamps not the plastic quick connect fittings...the way I read it anyway...

and if someone manages to break the spigots off the pump mounting plate they really should reconsider working on just about anything.

You know what, that is the way I also read it.....now.  ;D

Purolator F67221, and Wix 33310 are dead ringers for the size and inlet diameters.

10micron filtering.