Since it finally stopped snowing up here in indiana, I have been out on the bike riding. temperatures everywhere from 20* - 50*.
I noticed when I was first riding that the bike would loose power as it passed 5500-6000 RPM. I mean throw me forward on the bike loose power.
Thought it might just be the cold and the way the ECU is programmed. It goes from closed loop to open loop, or vice versa, right around that point correct?
As I'm typing this, I realize that it may partially be caused by fouled plugs... some of those cold asss starts made some big black smoke clouds.
Another possibility is ill-effects of having an open udder.
Any thoughts on what else might be causeing this?
All of the above, minus the open loop/closed loop...
How old is the fuel?
Did you add a stabilizer?
Quote from: ducpainter on February 07, 2009, 08:18:21 AM
How old is the fuel?
Did you add a stabilizer?
Fuel is fresh. Bike runs at least twice a month, so it wasn't winterized.
When I was in NM for christmas I didn't have these problems, so that is kinda throwing me off the open udder idea...
Quote from: Punx Clever on February 07, 2009, 08:30:49 AM
Fuel is fresh. Bike runs at least twice a month, so it wasn't winterized.
When I was in NM for christmas I didn't have these problems, so that is kinda throwing me off the open udder idea...
New plugs would be a cheap try.
Part number for the plugs? I might call up autozone and see if they have them... probably wont but it's worth a shot.
Or I could use it as an excuse to go to Indy today... [moto]
Manual for an 07 lists dcpr8e
What year is yours?
'08 methinks.
Quote from: Punx Clever on February 07, 2009, 09:04:32 AM
'08 methinks.
You can check in your owners manual or download it from ducati.com.
They're probably the same.
I just remembered...you have 4 plugs.
You might want to check them before replacing.
Quote from: ducpainter on February 07, 2009, 09:07:26 AM
You can check in your owners manual or download it from ducati.com.
They're probably the same.
I just remembered...you have 4 plugs.
You might want to check them before replacing.
Haha, yeah. Riding the duc is like flying a plane...
Duc site doesn't list an owners manual for 2008... maybee I'm mistaken.
Quote from: Punx Clever on February 07, 2009, 09:11:47 AM
Haha, yeah. Riding the duc is like flying a plane...
Duc site doesn't list an owners manual for 2008... maybee I'm mistaken.
not for a Monster with a 1K
The plugs listed for an '07 should be fine.
As mentioned in other threads (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=18886.msg337059#msg337059) make sure you get the plug with the removable end and proper hex size. Hex size might be an issue with a 1K, and you cant use a plug with a non removable end with your plug caps.
Well, it's not a big deal anyways. Definitely not the plugs. They all look just fine.
I'm beginning to think I have a sensor that is not working properly somewhere...
When accelerating easy, it starts to crap out at 5500-6000 rpm. When at full throttle and accelerating hard, it can go up to 7000. Furthermore, it has started to backfire out of the pipes a little (too rich).
I'm gonna try putting the mufflers back on, but I don't think that will do it.
Are there any sensors up near the gauges that could cause something like this? I've heard of altimeters, humidity...
Quote from: Punx Clever on February 07, 2009, 03:33:04 PM
Well, it's not a big deal anyways. Definitely not the plugs. They all look just fine.
I'm beginning to think I have a sensor that is not working properly somewhere...
When accelerating easy, it starts to crap out at 5500-6000 rpm. When at full throttle and accelerating hard, it can go up to 7000. Furthermore, it has started to backfire out of the pipes a little (too rich).
I'm gonna try putting the mufflers back on, but I don't think that will do it.
Are there any sensors up near the gauges that could cause something like this? I've heard of altimeters, humidity...
The older FI bikes had an ambient air temp sensor up in that area.
Did you rip any stuff out? ;D
No, I didn't. I did clean the bike pretty good one day cause it needed it and I wasn't going to be able to ride.
Water on said sensor freezing perhaps?
Any idea what kind of values that sensor is "supposed" to put out? I figure it's just a fancy variable resistor most likely. I could check it to see if it's putting out funky readings.
The air temperature/pressure sensor still exists on the new bikes. It is mounted on the right behind the headlight. There is also an oil temperature sensor mounted in the horizontal head valve cover. RPM sensor and throttle position sensor are about it for inputs. I have not seen published specs for the sensors, but you could compare with a similar known good running bike. Your best bet is to have someone scan the system with a factory scan tool or Technoresearch VDST software.
Anyone with an S2r1k or bike with equivilent sensor (would assume all FI bikes probably have that same sensor) want to get a resistance measurement for somehwere around 50 degrees? I'm thinking it would have to be a LONG way off, so even like a 60* garage would be great.
Quote from: Punx Clever on February 08, 2009, 10:32:35 AM
Anyone with an S2r1k or bike with equivilent sensor (would assume all FI bikes probably have that same sensor) want to get a resistance measurement for somehwere around 50 degrees? I'm thinking it would have to be a LONG way off, so even like a 60* garage would be great.
Ok, so I forced the sensor to output the *correct* ressistance for the temperature. Check engine light just came on. Problem still exists. So not hte temp sender... maybee the pressure function of the unit, but I can't check that.
So I'm gonna put the cans back on and see if that solves anything.
If not, a trip to indy will solve everything. But will cost effing money... grr
have you changed you fuel fiter
It's a possibility, but it doesn't feel like a fuel filter issue... A little too sudden and under had acceleration it happens at higher RPM's, when if it was the filter it should happen sooner at harder acc
its either that or your ecu shit its self cause if any of the censors are faulty the engine light would be on
I had an issue with the girlfriend's 620 which lost power and stalled every time it rev'd past 2500rpm. It turned out that the fuel line was pinched between the tank and the frame and the engine was starved of fuel as the revs increased.
Not the fuel filter... new one in, no difference.
Try unhooking the O2 sensor & resetting the ECU by unhooking the neg. terminal on the battery. You'll get a check engine light from the O2 sensor but it should run fine & eliminate one variable. You can try it with the O2 sensor still installed too but my bike always ran better after an ECU reset when I was running the OEM ECU.
Quote from: Gus Duc on February 11, 2009, 05:04:10 PM
Try unhooking the O2 sensor & resetting the ECU by unhooking the neg. terminal on the battery. You'll get a check engine light from the O2 sensor but it should run fine & eliminate one variable. You can try it with the O2 sensor still installed too but my bike always ran better after an ECU reset when I was running the OEM ECU.
I'm not sure why I think this, but isn't there a point in the ECU map where the O2 sensor gets ignored? Like at a certain set of RPM's/throttle positions?
When I say the bike bogs down, I mean it REALLY bogs down. Not just reduced acceleration, but a little bit of engine braking.
Oh well, I'm headed down to indy tomorrow and am gonna have the valve guides checked out
Quote from: Punx Clever on February 12, 2009, 11:42:08 AM
I'm not sure why I think this, but isn't there a point in the ECU map where the O2 sensor gets ignored? Like at a certain set of RPM's/throttle positions?
When I say the bike bogs down, I mean it REALLY bogs down. Not just reduced acceleration, but a little bit of engine braking.
Oh well, I'm headed down to indy tomorrow and am gonna have the valve guides checked out
The bike goes into open loop about where you are having the problem. You are on the right track. When you go to the dealer, just describe the problem. Diagnosis is their job.
Quote from: howie on February 12, 2009, 02:01:57 PM
The bike goes into open loop about where you are having the problem. You are on the right track. When you go to the dealer, just describe the problem. Diagnosis is their job.
Which means it's taking readings from the Temp/Pressure and throttle position sensors to calculate Fuel mix correct? Since the bike runs just fine up until then, O2 isn't the problem (as verified by trying the advice above with no changes).
I know diagnosis is their job, but damnit man I'm an engineer! I wanna know!
Quote from: Punx Clever on February 12, 2009, 03:56:38 PM
<snip> but damnit man I'm an engineer! I wanna know!
What kinda train? ;D
Quote from: Punx Clever on February 12, 2009, 03:56:38 PM
Which means it's taking readings from the Temp/Pressure and throttle position sensors to calculate Fuel mix correct? Since the bike runs just fine up until then, O2 isn't the problem (as verified by trying the advice above with no changes).
I know diagnosis is their job, but damnit man I'm an engineer! I wanna know!
Correct. The reason I said let them do the diagnosis is whatever you tell them to do, like check the valve adjustment, you can be billed for whether it fixes the problem or not. You definitely need to know what was wrong and should be informed of everything they do.
Quote from: Punx Clever on February 12, 2009, 03:56:38 PM
Which means it's taking readings from the Temp/Pressure and throttle position sensors to calculate Fuel mix correct? Since the bike runs just fine up until then, O2 isn't the problem (as verified by trying the advice above with no changes).
I know diagnosis is their job, but damnit man I'm an engineer! I wanna know!
I thought engineers rode BMW's ???
:P
Quote from: ducpainter on February 12, 2009, 04:04:16 PM
What kinda train? ;D
You know, I had to sit and think if I'd mentioned it before... but this kind of train:
(http://web.ics.purdue.edu/~snpha/purdue_train3.gif)
Quote
I thought engineers rode BMW's Huh?
Tongue
Sorry, but boxer engines aren't near as sexy as a desmo valve train.
Quote from: howie on February 12, 2009, 06:09:51 PM
Correct. The reason I said let them do the diagnosis is whatever you tell them to do, like check the valve adjustment, you can be billed for whether it fixes the problem or not. You definitely need to know what was wrong and should be informed of everything they do.
Oh, I''m near 7500 miles on the bike anyways. Its time for maintenance, and to check out the warranty issue of valve guides on that particular bike.
Quote from: Punx Clever on February 12, 2009, 09:42:31 PM
Oh, I''m near 7500 miles on the bike anyways. Its time for maintenance, and to check out the warranty issue of valve guides on that particular bike.
I had my guides done under warranty........ my bike never had issues like you describe. Mine were with the idle & odd running behavior..... sometimes the bike was smooth & felt strong, other times if felt weak & real lean, very flat & even the tone was different. Apparently when the guides are shot you can end up with these issues as the valves don't seat correctly. Sure was strange how random it was.... frustrating too..... no issues now but I hope it doesn't happen again..... at this point I'm the warranty [laugh]
Dealer called. 7.5k service done, bike running great.
Turns out it was the crank sensor. Covered under warranty. Woohoo!
Quote from: Punx Clever on March 04, 2009, 11:34:51 AM
Dealer called. 7.5k service done, bike running great.
Turns out it was the crank sensor. Covered under warranty. Woohoo!
Cool [thumbsup]
I wondered what that yellow thing behind the headlight was! An air sensor eh?! Those zaney italians!