My bike had been running shitty for like 6 months as I tried everything to diagnose it. Valves, timing belt, throttle body synch, new plugs, you name it.
Well finally I took it to Sonny Angels shop and they checked the valves and throttle body synchronization. Bike would still idle then shut off yet fire back up. Well, Don mentioned the fuel filter. OK, after 27k miles eah I've never changed it. He popped it out and drained it on the work bench. Holy shit batman! It was like a mix of Georgia red clay and San Diego sand. I couldn't believe it. Popped a Napa filter and and voila! Bike idling improved and I added some FI cleaner to clean things up a bit.
Simplicity can solve so much.
I changed mine at my 30,000 mile service and it made a noticable. There's an Auto Zone part that matches as well, and it was really cheap.
JM
Quote from: the_Journeyman on February 08, 2009, 02:02:10 PM
I changed mine at my 30,000 mile service and it made a noticable. There's an Auto Zone part that matches as well, and it was really cheap.
JM
Damn.
I wish I'd have known/searched that before I paid $32 for the Ducati filter. :-[
Yeah I bought mine from desmotimes.com while ordering other stuff.
Aren't these supposed to changed every 6k? In any event I do mine every winter which is about 7500k and it is always gross.
Quote from: gage on February 08, 2009, 05:55:51 PM
Aren't these supposed to changed every 6k? In any event I do mine every winter which is about 7500k and it is always gross.
That's what Ducati says...
what do they know. ;D
Yeah I know of the service schedule but I overlooked it with foolishness. I'd taken that tank apart so many times it's rediculous. [bang]
Quote from: gage on February 08, 2009, 05:55:51 PM
Aren't these supposed to changed every 6k? In any event I do mine every winter which is about 7500k and it is always gross.
Holy crap!! I just swapped mine in at a hair under 34000 miles!! :o :-\
Mine wasn't "gross." In fact, the fuel that I poured from it was transparent, so I cut it open. There was no visible particulate matter inside, but the filter itself was dark brown.
Quote from: pompetta on February 08, 2009, 02:41:13 PM
Damn.
I wish I'd have known/searched that before I paid $32 for the Ducati filter. :-[
I *think* it was a 3047 at Auto Zone. Something like $3-$4 ~
JM
Quote from: the_Journeyman on February 09, 2009, 04:59:44 AM
I *think* it was a 3047 at Auto Zone. Something like $3-$4 ~
JM
That's for the carbed bike?
I use clear plastic in line filters where I can see them (carb'd bikes). They are easy to inspect and easy to change. Most auto parts stores carry a selection of them for about $5.
Quote from: ducpainter on February 09, 2009, 05:00:38 AM
That's for the carbed bike?
Yes, fits my 1999 M750 w/ carbs ~
JM
hmm... what kinda filter would be needed for the s2r800?
I have the bike in pieces right now waiting some valve shims so i may as well get this taken care of as well.
Quote from: ghosthound on February 09, 2009, 07:17:46 AM
hmm... what kinda filter would be needed for the s2r800?
I have the bike in pieces right now waiting some valve shims so i may as well get this taken care of as well.
Check desmotimes.com for the NAPA #.
looks like its napa #3032!
thanks!
Here in Thailand i have to change the fuel filter every 5k as the local gas is filthy, and clogs up the running making it run lean in the UK i can leave it for 10k at least .
Just changed my fuel filter on the 2000 M900Sie. It was disgusting. Bike fuels much more smoothly now!
any special considerations to take into account when swapping out filters? haven't done one of these before but i imagine it to be fairly straightforward. guess i should order one up from desmotimes
Quote from: ghostface on February 08, 2009, 11:10:06 AM
My bike had been running shitty for like 6 months as I tried everything to diagnose it. Valves, timing belt, throttle body synch, new plugs, you name it.
Note to self: Always start with the easy, cheap stuff.
I can't count the money I've thrown at bad plugs, bad filters, poor carb adjustment.
Quote from: dlearl476 on February 18, 2009, 02:29:28 PM
Note to self: Always start with the easy, cheap stuff.
I can't count the money I've thrown at bad plugs, bad filters, poor carb adjustment.
Yeah, I should have known better. [bang]
Simplicity.
I usually change 'em out around 12K just because they're cheap and relatively easy to do when performing a 12K service.
My 01' m750 only made it 6500 miles before it gave me fits. That was several years ago and I remember starting a post very similar to this when I found the problem. Word to the wise if you use fuel stabil in the winter months while stored it will clog the filter much faster.
For the S2R models (and I think the S4R models ??? But don't quote me on that) I have put up a topic in the Tutorial area.
Hope this helps some folks out.
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=17213.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=17213.0)
thanks much for the tutorial link; looks very helpful... i'm now inspired to order up a filter from DT and replace mine also. [thumbsup]
Fuel injected bikes are much more prone to clogging fuel filters, this is due to the higher pressures the system is running at. Years ago the shop that used to work on my 851 did not change filters at the 6k services, I had filters clog up twice. They started doing it every tune and no more issues.
Those older bikes with the crap regulator/rectifiers would blow the rectifier due to the extra load when the fuel pump was trying to force the fuel through a partially clogged filter.
Carb bikes run such low pressures that often the debris will get caught in the filter, and just sit in the bottom of the filter rather than trying to be forced through with pressure.
You can get away with more with a carby than efi.
I do all of my bikes at every tune, in part due to the fact it is cheap and never hurts. Well as long as you put it together correctly and do not have a fuel leak above that vertical cylinder exhaust pipe.
after speaking to a local NAPA guy in town and asking if they had FIL 3032 in stock, he said they also have FIL 3002, which is basically the same as FIL 3032, except all plastic. though when i told him this was for a motorcycle application, and the filter was going to be in the tank, he seemed to freak out a bit and tell me A) i needed a smaller filter (3011) and B) it had to be all plastic or risk corrosion in the fuel. is there any truth to that? he claimed to have had many motorcycles and never had the filter in the tank and was apprehensive about putting the 3032 in fuel. am i understanding how all of this works?? i've never done this before so that's a definite possibility.
and i went to autozone yesterday and they were out of NAPA brand filters, but said that they had an equivilant filter, a Luber-finer brand (http://www.luberfiner.com/htdocs/products/fuelfilters.html (http://www.luberfiner.com/htdocs/products/fuelfilters.html)). i forgot the p/n for what they ended up selling me, but it looked to be about what i saw installed in the tutorial thread: http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=17213.0
so my question is should i go ahead and try installing the Luber-finer filter, or make a run to NAPA to get p/n 3032? or use the plastic 3002?
http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(xgsrln55nywuw345ivnq5245))/Detail.aspx?R=FIL3032_0058502362 (http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(xgsrln55nywuw345ivnq5245))/Detail.aspx?R=FIL3032_0058502362)
(the luber-finer filter i bought looks just like the NAPA one in the above link)
Buy the 3032 and ignore the guy at NAPA. Gasoline is not corrosive.
Quote from: pompetta on February 20, 2009, 10:40:45 AM
Buy the 3032 and ignore the guy at NAPA. Gasoline is not corrosive.
Yeah what a fooking idiot.
well, right...i think he was thinking along the lines of gasoline has some amount of condensation in it...especially if it sits for periods of time.
that said...i'll try to switch mine out tomorrow; i'm curious to see if it's got much or any crud in the filter...
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on February 20, 2009, 10:56:42 AM
well, right...i think he was not thinking along the lines of gasoline has some amount of condensation in it...especially if it sits for periods of time.
Fixed. ;D
Plastic is much better for in the tank. You would not believe how rusty some of the fuel pumps I have replaced were. (I'm a mechanic) If pure then gasoline will not corrode but as previously stated condensation will cause metals to rust.
I've had a lot of tanks apart and I've never seen a rusty steel filter.
The water, from condensation or pumped into the tank, settles to the bottom and really doesn't affect the galvanized/aluminized...(whatever) filter housing.
Quote from: ducpainter on February 20, 2009, 05:14:02 PM
I've had a lot of tanks apart and I've never seen a rusty steel filter.
The water, from condensation or pumped into the tank, settles to the bottom and really doesn't affect the galvanized/aluminized...(whatever) filter housing.
Well, my experience is with autos and every fuel pump I have changed over 7 or 8 years old has been rusted to high hell.
Im not doubting you painter as I know full well you have far more experience with motorcycle tanks than I could ever have.
Quote from: needtorque on February 20, 2009, 05:25:19 PM
Well, my experience is with autos and every fuel pump I have changed over 7 or 8 years old has been rusted to high hell.
Im not doubting you painter as I know full well you have far more experience with motorcycle tanks than I could ever have.
I've seen tanks that have a half inch of sludge in the bottom, so the sender was tough to get out and the pickup screen was clogged, and the metal on the pump and filter was still bright and shiny.
Most fuel filters get changed occasionally even on a poorly maintained bike. Maybe the Euro metal plating on the pump is better than what we use here.
It's just an observation.
Quote from: ducpainter on February 20, 2009, 05:34:55 PM
I've seen tanks that have a half inch of sludge in the bottom, so the sender was tough to get out and the pickup screen was clogged, and the metal on the pump and filter was still bright and shiny.
Most fuel filters get changed occasionally even on a poorly maintained bike. Maybe the Euro metal plating on the pump is better than what we use here.
It's just an observation.
This is a strong possibility as we all know "the big three" have serious QC issues and the aftermarket stuff for autos is mostly from Taiwan and Korea.
heh...i got the parts all together the other weekend to swap my fuel filter out, and it wasn't until i lifted my tank and started looking for the access panel on the bottm....that i realized it wasn't there. guess i have to "fish" all of my stuff out from the top opening...
Quote from: ghostface on February 18, 2009, 02:49:47 PM
Yeah, I should have known better. [bang]
Simplicity.
OTOH, I've never let "cheap and easy" stand in my way of throwing $35 at a $1.95 Problem. Hence.
THE NEW IMPROVED SHAM-W0W FUEL FILTERSome of you may know from other threads that I'm in the process of removing my vacuum-operated petcock and intsalling a manual one. In the course of that, I'm doing a couple of other mods on the tank I just got back from Ducpainter. (WooHoo)
I took a trip down to SoCal Speed Shop and bought a new-fangled billet fuel filter. Unfortunately, the straight fittings (blue) that came with it didn't really fit, so I went to my trusty hardware store and bought some 90 degree fittings and a hose clamp. My intention is to put this on with the bolt that normally holds said OEM petcock on the front edge of the tank hinge flange.
(http://crs-america.smugmug.com/photos/482305965_UTmBU-M.jpg)
In this pic, I had one straight and one 90 degree fitting, but that didn't really fit either, without crimping the fuel line. So I bought another one today.
The best part? When I took the thing apart and looked at it, it basically had but a screen in the body (with all that room???) so great, it will keep ROCKS out of the carbs, but little else.
So's being the real smart and innovative cat that I am, I says to my self, "hmmmm, howzabout some SHAM-WOW in there, for a little better filtering?" Self responded thusly:
(http://crs-america.smugmug.com/photos/482307164_6rrEQ-M.jpg)
I cut a strip off one of my SHAM-WOW's (straighter than the one pictured, I promise. THis was a bit I cut off) Rolled it up, and put it in the chamber of the filter housing.
(http://crs-america.smugmug.com/photos/482307686_oyf6p-M.jpg)
I did a "flow test" and it seemed to work just fine, for a carbed bike. The gasoline flowed almost as fast as without the "filter." I'm thinking "40 mpg, that will be plenty of flow." ;D
And Voila, a $35 fuel filter for my Duc
(http://crs-america.smugmug.com/photos/482307333_P9YTk-M.jpg)
Cost of this project:
Filter housing....................$19.95
Barbed fitting I won't use.....$9.95
Cable Clamp.......................$1.98
Nylon Barbed fittings............$2.50
Strip of Sham Wow...........$.00001
Knowing I'll never be stuck by my OEM petcock shooting craps or a clogged fuel filter I can't take apart and clean by the side of the road?
You know the drill.
this was my old one...it was swapped out a couple weeks back... is this the normal level? i think it may be as old as 21k miles...
(https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3103/3399546819_3a9e1aeffc_b.jpg)
(https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3620/3400358596_18e29cb87f_b.jpg)
(https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3606/3399553185_89a21b07cf_b.jpg)
no comments?? this was the first time i've torn one open...so i really have nothing to go on here.