2-part question.
1)Tried to bleed my clutch today. Could not get all of the air out. Not even to the point where the clutch would engage. Where could the air be coming from? Is it possible that the line could have a hole in it?
2)The *&@$! banjo bolt torqued rigth off! Now what?! [bang]
Thanks for your advice. (Anyone have a nice new slave cylinder they don't want? ;) )
sounds like you need two things.
1) mighty vac brake bleeding vacuum (ca-cycleworks has em)
2) new banjo bolt...
sorry for stating the obvious.
might be able to look into the fren-tubo stuff at pjs-parts for a banjo bolt?
I would try the Micro Grabbit to remove the bleed screw and would also recomend the mightyvac.
As a last suggestion you can try to push in on the clutch stack and "freeze" the Slave piston to allow yourself to push more brake fluid through the system without activating slave cylinder.
Good Luck,
If you still want a new slave cylinder I have a used one I bought that supposedly has low miles - I would be willing to sell it for what I paid but can't gaurantee it functions as it should.
-Gage
Quote from: corey on February 25, 2009, 01:36:32 PM
sounds like you need two things.
1) mighty vac brake bleeding vacuum (ca-cycleworks has em)
2) new banjo bolt...
sorry for stating the obvious.
might be able to look into the fren-tubo stuff at pjs-parts for a banjo bolt?
1)+1
2)+1
Had similar problem with bleeding my old 748. They do not have a bleed nipple at the MC so air gets stuck in the 90 at the union. From what I understand newer bikes have a bleed nipple up top.
I just bled my clutch last night/this morning because I replaced my slave and reservoir. I couldn't get any pressure at first, starting from the slave side. I have a bleeder at the master and so I did that side and after that I started getting some action on the slave side. The banjo is nice but that little bleed nipple on the slave is crap. The threads are sloppy so when you loosen them enough to bleed the system, hydraulic fluid comes seeping out around the threads - much more fluid than I've ever seen before. The nipple has tons of sideways play when it is just barely loosened. I ?guess? this is a Brembo part. I am disappointed with it but it does seem to work otherwise.
I recommend using copper crush washers, before you go and put it all back together. The copper works alot better than the aluminum that some aftermarket slaves supply. You dont have to crank the banjo to the point of failure either. usually just takes 1/4 past snug. If you where woriking on the stock banjo, I think this is common. The boys over in Italy must tighten them with a breaker bar.
1. Hard to know what, if anything, you may be doing wrong, but, anyway,
If you have a lot of air it can take a long time.
Pump slowly, quick pumping will foam the fluid. If you foamed the fluid call it a night and come back in the
morning.
You want the master as close to horizontal as possible.
2. An easy out small enough to fit in the bleeder should work. The Micro Grabit mentioned before sounds
good.
Quote from: blac9 on February 25, 2009, 01:21:30 PM
2-part question.
1)Tried to bleed my clutch today. Could not get all of the air out. Not even to the point where the clutch would engage. Where could the air be coming from? Is it possible that the line could have a hole in it?
2)The *&@$! banjo bolt torqued rigth off! Now what?! [bang]
Thanks for your advice. (Anyone have a nice new slave cylinder they don't want? ;) )
Well, depending on the year of your bike, I have the stock one off my 07 RS that you can have for the cost of shipping it... it has approx 2000 miles on it.
Quote from: howie on February 25, 2009, 09:54:37 PM
1. Hard to know what, if anything, you may be doing wrong, but, anyway,
If you have a lot of air it can take a long time.
Pump slowly, quick pumping will foam the fluid. If you foamed the fluid call it a night and come back in the
morning.
You want the master as close to horizontal as possible.
I tried a mighty vac on my clutch. It didn't work well, too much play in the bleeder. The advice above worked for me to a point. I was able to get the last remaining small amount of air by replacing the reservoir cap, pulling the clutch lever in and strapping it to the bar. I left it that way overnight. The next morning the air was gone.
Quote from: blac9 on February 25, 2009, 01:21:30 PM
Thanks for your advice. (Anyone have a nice new slave cylinder they don't want? ;) )
I have my stock one I just took off.. but no banjo bolt to go with it ??? you can have it if youd like..
One thing to check for is your clutch master cylinder piston having the correct amount of travel. The small screw that is at the base of the clutch lever on my 695 had walked inwards a bit causing the piston in the m/c to not quite return all the way to its home position. This made it impossible for me to bleed the clutch. Once I removed the lever from the m/c, a ton of air bubbles came out of the reservoir and the system actually began to gravity bleed. I also had a problem with the bleeder screw breaking. I ended up taking a hex head screw that matched the thread pitch and roughly the length, and machined a cone shape on the end to act as a bleeder screw. It has worked fine now for 2000 miles.
sounds like there adding locktite to the bleeder screw!