i put arrows on my S4R (2005, stock ECU, 21k miles, OEM paper air filter, airbox unmodded) about three months ago...and at first noticed really no popping. now, though, when i decelerate hard, it's popping / backfiring a LOT. i'm not big on going the power commander route (i've done it once before on an 05 S2R...but my local dealer *hates* them)...what other options would i have though? i don't have the $$ for DP ECU... would a fuel trim adjustment on my stock ECU by my dealer be sufficient? i'm not going for max hp/torque or the best dyno curves...just a bike that's running well and not popping. any suggestions?
More likely you have an air leak at a connection.
Doesn't the S4R use a gasket in the pipe near the header to cyl connection?
yes, IIRC.
i can check again for leaks, but the last time i checked things seem pretty well free of exhaust leaks.
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on March 04, 2009, 07:48:43 AM
yes, IIRC.
i can check again for leaks, but the last time i checked things seem pretty well free of exhaust leaks.
I seem to remember that gasket being problematic.
I had the same problem w/mine after installing Desmo Spark mid-pipe, cans, PCIII, modded airbox, K&N filter and custom dyno. However, the backfiring on decell did not start until after about 1K later or so. I found cracks in my shorty headers. Did a little a little welding, installed new gaskets and allot of high-temp. RTV to resolve the problem. 10K later and it still pulls strong w/no backfiring whatsoever.
Quote from: 2CardDuc on March 04, 2009, 11:24:40 AM
I had the same problem w/mine after installing Desmo Spark mid-pipe, cans, PCIII, modded airbox, K&N filter and custom dyno. However, the backfiring on decell did not start until after about 1K later or so. I found cracks in my shorty headers. Did a little a little welding, installed new gaskets and allot of high-temp. RTV to resolve the problem. 10K later and it still pulls strong w/no backfiring whatsoever.
+1 on the cracks on the shorty header on the horizontal cylinder...the flange on mine was nearly hanging off!!
Rameses welded it, but I could never get rid of the leaks from the union of the header and the midpipe.
Oh, and those metal "sponge" gaskets suck ass!
I'm thinking it'd have to be a lot of backfiring to be problematic. Backfires occur when unburnt fuel ignites in the header. Some manufacturers even have a pet valve in the head that introduces clean air into the exhaust to ignite unburnt fuel. And in that way, most bikes backfire right outta the box, albeit with restrictive enough mufflers that the burn is contained and rarely heard. Pet valve tend to fail in the open position causing more backfiring over time, although I'm pretty sure ducati doesn't use these, so that doesn't matter for our purposes.
I seem to be offering this a lot lately but... Have you tried replacing the plugs? Even slightly worn plugs can be inefficient, causing an incomplete flame front, and more unburnt fuel in the header... And you can keep this cheap, and just buy normal "house" plugs for around $2 each. For the same cost, you can go a step colder (hotter? i can never remember which is which and I think it differs between manufacturers) so that your plug maintains temp better.
As a side note, I'm leaning toward standard plugs due to unsettling stories I've heard lately. GM put out a technical bulletin asking their dealers NOT to install Bosch Platinum plugs in their cars. Two people I know had power loss issues resolved by replacing their BP plugs with "house" plugs at a quarter the price..... It seems the platinum plugs were sort of melting into a filament (very fine) that stretched the gap, causing shorts.
I've run iridium plugs successfully in my Subaru and in my S2R, but I'm pretty sure there were no gains on the bike that made spending the extra coin worth it.
Just my .15 cents
well, as the temps are getting hotter here...the popping has seemed to increase to an unacceptable level. i'm still running the stock airbox lid and stock paper filter...but hard decel is getting some LOUD and very sharp pops...and lots of them. it's to the point where i don't want to downshift, and instead just clutch in and grab front brakes for every stoplight, which is a habit i don't want to get in. and actually sometimes when i'm at a cruising RPM, if i back off even *slightly* on the throttle, i will hear popping. this to me is unacceptable.
it's just recently had the throttle bodies balanced, and valves checked, as well as belts replaced. i also had him try to seal up the exhaust even more...so this shouldn't have much if anything to do with any leaking in the exhaust pipes. what options do i have at this point? i know they can adjust my trim a little bit at least on the stock ECU...would that be sufficient? there's no way i'm throwing down for a DP ECU... i guess my only other realistic option would be a power commander...but i'm not very crazy about them, either. i'd rather not have additional hardware on the bike; the scorpio alarm is enough i think.
suggestions? it's getting embarrassing... i don't want people on the road to think that's what Ducatis sound like....popcorn.
i'm not sure this will help, but I will share my experience with my 2006 S2R1K.
It's a Euro spec bike - which apparently has a different ECU than the US ones.
I installed a full Arrow system - and then took it to the shop to have the TPS re-set, and the airbleeds adjusted. Bike was surging somewhat even before the exhaust install.
With the new system in, the bike felt rought - and was popping a lot on decel.
According to the shop, the adjustments were difficult to get right - but eventually I got the bike back, - with the lambda sensor unplugged (there is a bung hole in the Arrows mid- for which arrow supply a nut to close up.
The bike was running much better - really a vast improvement.
So to summarise - this was standard box and filter, full arrow system, sensor unplugged - and the TPS and air-bleeds adjusted by Ducati mechanic.
I happily rode the bike like this for about a year, there was still some intermittent popping on decel - but nothiig like before - and I only really noticed this during track days.
I have however been interested in getting the DP ECU - to really fix things up and so I could open up the airbox, however coming up with the cash for that is tough to do. And having the standard one reflashed to DP spec - while an option, is difficult for me here in THailand.
I ended up opening up the box, and expected more popping. It didn't happen. If anything, the bike seemed a little more responsive at very low RPM.
I then purchased a FATDUC o2 manipulator for about 100 bucks. Now, there is almost zero popping - I simply re-attached the o2 ensor to the mid-pipe, set the manipulator to the rich setting - about 13.1 - left the airbox open, added a K&N filter even.
Bike is now still ruinning smooth at low constant throttle - no surging, the engine response at low-RPM, let's say 2500- 4500 is very smooth, and the bike runs smoother in top gear.
I will occasionally get a small pop - more like a fart sound - but nothiig like when the exhaust was first installed - and I feel that the bike is running as good as it can without further fuelling or mapping adjustments which are available through purchase of the DP ecu or your standard ecu re-flashed to DP ECU spec -or other means.
Again, not sure if this will help you, but I have just outlined the process I went through with my bike to get the best solution with the standard ecu and a full arrow system.
At a minimum, I would expect that you would see some improvement by unplugging the lambda sensor and having the TPS and airbleeds properly set up.
Cheers...
DP ECU, FATDUC, PC. Just suck it up and buy something.
well... O2 manipulators don't exactly help.... it's an 05 S4R, so there's nothing to plug it into. and DP ECU is definitely out... i'm not paying that much $$ just to eliminate popping. i would think about a PCIII, but the unit is like $300 plus at least $200 to tune/map it. so still a bit pricey in my eyes just to eliminate some popping. i don't care about the best power/torque curves, just want something that runs well, and doesn't sound like i'm hurting it every time i come off the throttle. and to that end...is this a harmful condition over the long term? i've heard people claim that it is, but i wonder.
Go for the trim adjustment.
Quote from: Speeddog on April 23, 2009, 09:01:56 AM
Go for the trim adjustment.
yeah, that's the thing i was hoping would be viable...and cheapest, and save me having to install another add on. they don't even have to spend all that much time on it, just so that it's no longer the orville redenbacher express... i'll give them a call and see if they can ballpark a price for me.
well, that was fast. according to the tech i just talked to at AMS, there may or may not be any adjustment to be had on it...but he said i could bring it in and put it on the dyno and find out... wtf, either there is or there isn't. i had always heard that there's some adjustment to be had, though. assuming that there is...would it be enough to eliminate a very lean condition?
Closely check the flanges on your shorty headers for cracks. The best tech, power commander and dyno won't correct the decell backfire if those headers are cracked. Mine sounded like a rat rod with straight headers before throwing the welder to them...
There *is* a trim adjustment on your ECU.
Whether it's got enough mojo to cure the issue.... well, it depends where it's set now.
should be set to factory afaik; it was rockin' the stock cans when i got it. is the trim stock set to... say the "middle" (allowing for adjustment either way), or is it set to the "lean" position (allowing for a bunch of adjustment to richen the fuel, but none to go more lean)?
I've no idea where they set them at the factory.
They may have a nominal setting that all bikes go out with, or they may be tuned individually.
You can also ask around if someone has a similar setup with a PC. You can ask them to share it with you.
hmm, my shop is swearing that they can't do anything with my stock ECU.... he said he'll hook it up to the exhaust sniffer for about $50 though to see where it's at right now. just seems weird that i wouldn't be able to have the ecu adjusted slightly to just dump a little more fuel...
he did say they would be happy to sell me a DP ECU for $1500 plus a couple hundred to tune it. of course, they don't have any in stock.
but going back to what i was originally worried about...is there any real long term concerns or possibility of harm for running lean (enough for lots of popping)? i've heard people say that if you run too lean the engine is operating at higher temps and can ultimately do stuff like burn up a piston. any real truth there or is that just the worst of scenarios and the rarest of outcomes?
$1500? :o
PC with a custom make is less than half of that.
Any updates McKraut? I've been following this thread, b/c the Mivv x-cones are doing the same popping to my '07 695. It's been suggested, to unhook the 02 sensor, does anyone know if this is a remedy, or what problems could occur by doing so? thanks in advance.
M.Hirsch
no 02 sensor for me though.... but after calling back AMS (mostly to see if i couldn't find a different tech to talk to), he said i could always swing by and put it on the exhaust sniffer to see where it's at there..... for $50 of course. i guess i could do that, but it's just going to tell me what i already know....it's leaner than fat-free turkey hot dogs. there, i just saved myself $50.
as to what if anything i'll do, i don't know. the tech did go on to say that i shouldn't run into any long term problems really (re: burning up pistons or rings), if i'm not "revving the piss outta it". which i don't...but i'm not exactly heartened by that.
still confused why he would say there's nothing to be done with the stock ECU trim-wise, when most people say differently. just don't want to pay $100 for an hour of labor just to hear the same thing again "yeah, we really can't do anything with your ECU".
Quote from: Speeddog on April 23, 2009, 11:51:31 AM
There *is* a trim adjustment on your ECU.
Whether it's got enough mojo to cure the issue.... well, it depends where it's set now.
Ever since I installed the hi mounted Termis, got this issue... ???
after feeling all the exhaust joints where leaks might be occurring, there doesn't seem to be any, but a tiny bit by the header pipe for the front cylinder. i could jam it full of copper exhaust sealant, but it's not enough that i think it would make any difference at all.
does anyone have any experience with the Power Card that desmotimes sells? i wonder if that's a reasonable alternative for my situation.
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on May 07, 2009, 02:28:31 PM
does anyone have any experience with the Power Card that desmotimes sells? i wonder if that's a reasonable alternative for my situation.
One way to find out...send LT an email...by the description of it, if works even better than the PCIII...I let the dealer adjust once every so often...they cannot charge me...'guarantee issue' as they call it...
But once bike is running again, I'll decide if to buy DesmoTimes PC...And THEN I'll let you know...gimme till the endo of the year... :-\
Is a re-flash of your standard ECU to DP ECU spec an option? I know it is now for some bikes - S2r1k included - for about 500 bucks. Not sure about yours though... :-\
a reflash would be cool, but honestly $500 is way more than i'm willing to spend just to reduce popping on deceleration. so, make the beast with two backs it, it'll just be my calling card then...and one more vehicle of loudness, so to speak. the clutch and exhaust are already loud as shit, this will just add to the wave of sound that follows my bike. maybe it'll help to scare cagers away from me in traffic even more... it sounds like gunfire sometimes.
finally hit up the joints where the stock header pipes meet the arrow pipes yesterday... on the front cylinder i used the ultra red RTV gasket sealant, and the rear i tried a big thick bead of ultra black RTV sealant. both are supposed to be good for high temps, but i'm still worried they will get "blown out" by the pressure of the exhaust. would i be better off trying out the copper-based gasket sealant stuff? that's what i planned on trying initially but autozone was out of it. haven't taken it for a ride yet; it's supposed to cure for 24 hours...
anyone else have good exhaust sealant suggestions?
Just another thought - have you checked carefully for a leak on the intake side? I think I remember a thread where someone had a similar problem and had a hard time finding the cause. It turned out to be a vacuum leak somewhere on or near the TB's but I don't remember exactly where. Does kind of seem like an intake leak would cause some idle issues though.
probably not related to the intake side...had a very experienced Duc mechanic balance the throttle bodies just recently....what a difference that made across the board, and the idle is great too.
haven't been able to stress-test the header pipe sealant attempts (been rainy and crappy lately). hopefully if things dry out today after work i can take it for a spin and see if they hold. i have to say i'm not all that confident in them though, but who knows. still open for other sealant suggestions as well.
Hi,
I am new here and I just got a used 2003 620ie fitted with high mount Leo Vince carbon cans and K&N filter and I also have this backfire problems. Ask the local dealer here and they say it is a stock ecu and nothing can be done.
1 question. What cause it to backfire, is it too lean or too rich or something else more complicated?
And I also have another problem don't know whether you guys have this too or not. (sorry to high-jack your tread a little bit). It seams like when I am in 1st or 2nd gear riding very slow behind traffic, stop and go can of ride, I always got a miss fire. If you guys have any idea or suggestion what I can try I would be very greatful.
Many thanks in advance.
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on May 11, 2009, 11:28:15 AM
finally hit up the joints where the stock header pipes meet the arrow pipes yesterday... on the front cylinder i used the ultra red RTV gasket sealant, and the rear i tried a big thick bead of ultra black RTV sealant. both are supposed to be good for high temps, but i'm still worried they will get "blown out" by the pressure of the exhaust. would i be better off trying out the copper-based gasket sealant stuff? that's what i planned on trying initially but autozone was out of it. haven't taken it for a ride yet; it's supposed to cure for 24 hours...
anyone else have good exhaust sealant suggestions?
Red wont work..I had this same issue with my arrows (when I still had them on my 05 S2R). I'm sorry to give you the bad news but even ultra copper didnt work it blew off as well. The heat from the heads is too high and the RTV will turn brown I cured that sucker for 3 days and the RTV only lasted for a few hours.
So, that said, being the purveyor of cheap fixes to common problems, here are 2 methods that might come in handy.
1) If the slip fit connection is loose you can tighten it but shimming the inside of the stock header pipe with a thin metal. Cheapest solution? Take a 12 ounce coke can and cut it up with metal shears (careful not to cut yourself). Wrap a strip around the stock flange and insert. If its still loose, cut out another and double it up. The sheet aluminum is heat resistant and very uniform in thickness.An added bonus is that it naturally curves just like your pipes. If you want you can use a bit of ultra copper rtv to set in into place and keep it from moving when you install. This is probably the easiest fix.
2) Nashua 322 aluminum foil tape - it has an adhesive which will smell a little for the first day as it burns off but it will seal. I prefer the above method more but if you have trouble getting the coke can piece to stay in place, this is your second option.
I'm going thru the same backfiring issues you are with my new boomtubes. Lots of fitment issues have caused me some big headaches. If the above dont work, please post and I'll give you another option. Its more "out there" (carbon fiber weave mixed w/ Copper RTV). The fitment issue on my boomtubes is bad enough that this is may be my only option. I'll know this weekend if it works. This fix is more costly (9 bucks).
yeah, this is basically what i was thinking i would need to do if i wanted something that would last. i used the ultra copper before and didn't really think it did a terrific job of sealing up...and blew out in a couple places, but i thought maybe i just hadn't done it properly. i haven't ridden it yet or fired it up even, just to ensure that it at least gets plenty of time to cure. i'll be taking it out saturday morning for a decent length ride, so i'll see how it's faring at the end of that. kind of wish the full system would just come with one of those circular squishy steel slip-on gaskets that slips on the male end.
Dont judge it on one ride..It took a couple of days to completely blow out..you'll be back to where you were before after a weeks worth of riding..
I had an 04 S4R with Arrows and had the same problem. It is very common.
The problem is the donut gaskets between the stubby headers and the Arrow system. Your ECU didn't suddenly change the mixture, the gaskets just broke down over time from the pipes moving around. The mounts on the Arrow system suck.
You will notice that after you remove the cans to change the rear tire that the popping will get worse. I used two donut gaskets on each pipe and change them every second rear tire.
Don't waste your money tuning. Buy 4 donut gaskets and the popping will stop.
Quote from: silentbob on May 14, 2009, 03:44:57 PM
I had an 04 S4R with Arrows and had the same problem. It is very common.
The problem is the donut gaskets between the stubby headers and the Arrow system. Your ECU didn't suddenly change the mixture, the gaskets just broke down over time from the pipes moving around. The mounts on the Arrow system suck.
You will notice that after you remove the cans to change the rear tire that the popping will get worse. I used two donut gaskets on each pipe and change them every second rear tire.
Don't waste your money tuning. Buy 4 donut gaskets and the popping will stop.
donut gaskets from ducati, or from a third party vendor?? i'll have to double-check my box of stock pipes, but i don't remember having any donut gaskets when i took it off...
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on May 15, 2009, 05:11:56 AM
donut gaskets from ducati, or from a third party vendor?? i'll have to double-check my box of stock pipes, but i don't remember having any donut gaskets when i took it off...
From Ducati. They go between the stubby headers and the Arrow system. They are a pregnant dog to install without destroying them. They are probably still stuck in the udder.
bet you 10 bucks they're stuck in the expanded portion of your stock udder. [thumbsup]. Buy new ones.. they really do suck..
That being said, my arrows still leaked even after I installed the gaskets.
glad i didn't take you up on that...i pulled the udder out of the closet yesterday and there were the steel gaskets. i was in such a rush to get the beautiful arrow system installed that i didn't even look for them at the time. at any rate, i'm going to try to get them re-installed tonight, and also try to use some teflon tape and ultra black RTV sealant as well, to really try to seal those two joints up. i'm thinking if i put teflon tape around the male end...slide the gasket over that, and then put some ultra black RTV on the inside edget of the gasket, and slide on the female pipes over top of that, it should be a pretty tight seal, yeah? and i would think the RTV wouldn't be able to "blow out" with those steel donut gaskets in place. worth a try at least.
Teflon tape will just melt. Buy new donut gaskets and get two per pipe. Forget the silicone.
hmmm....i've heard from other sources that the teflon tape will hold up...as in, it may melt a bit and whatnot, but would hold it's ground and be a fairly "permanent" thing. i'm thinking there's only one way to find out.
that said, i'll be picking up some new donut gaskets this weekend from AMS and will try the "double-up" method...one new and one used gasket on each pipe.
I'm tellin ya man..coke can shim w/ ultra copper rtv is the best way to go..
Hmmm maybe I'll try a combo of all of them! Teflon tape, ultra black or copper (if I can find some finally), donut gaskets, and shimmed with a coke can... For the coke can, do you just cut a long flat strip to wrap around it basically?
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on May 20, 2009, 06:34:04 PM
Hmmm maybe I'll try a combo of all of them! Teflon tape, ultra black or copper (if I can find some finally), donut gaskets, and shimmed with a coke can... For the coke can, do you just cut a long flat strip to wrap around it basically?
Yep... best way is to seat it w/ rtv. let it cure for a few hours so it doesnt move when you insert.
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on May 20, 2009, 06:34:04 PM
Hmmm maybe I'll try a combo of all of them! Teflon tape, ultra black or copper (if I can find some finally), donut gaskets, and shimmed with a coke can... For the coke can, do you just cut a long flat strip to wrap around it basically?
Why when the proper gaskets will do the job fine by themselves? All that other crap may prevent you from seating the pipes properly.
I think you should listen to silentbob...just get the donuts!!!! [bang] and lrt us know how it works! [thumbsup]
stopped by and picked up 2 new donut gaskets saturday and i'm glad i did instead of just reusing the old ones...since they were so beat and smashed. though $20+ for two little gaskets seemed steep, i'll be totally happy with that price if it eliminates it. i'll be riding in WV and maybe DC later this week, so i'll let you know how they worked. [thumbsup]
Well after installing two new oem steel donut gaskets the other day, I finally got to take it for a little ride after work. While the pipies were still cool I felt the joints where the arrow pipes fits in the header pipes; the rear didn't have leaks I could detect, while the front had *slight* leaks. The result? No difference...it still pops like nuts, and that's not just when you chop the throttle, even with slight deceleration. It's so prominent that it's distracted me while in a corner, and I've got enough to think about without worrying about that shit.
So the dealer still just wants to put it on the dyno and hook it to a sniffer, so they can charge $120 just to tell me I need to spend $1500 on a dp ecu. So, whatever, make the beast with two backs it at this point, I think after I get back from the WV/DC ride in a few days i'm just throwing the stock exhaust back on and selling the arrows on here. Be looking for that!
You should have no leaks. If you can feel exhaust coming out them you will have the popping on decel. I double up on the gaskets. My dealer only charges me $2 per gasket if they even charge me at all. They are a pregnant dog to install correctly without destroying them. Maybe the dealer could do it for you.
the leak is really not bad on the front pipe, just a wisp of exhaust; i can't imagine even if it was 100% sealed up it would do much if anything at this point, as the popping is rampant, especially when you hit 5k and lower (it's more like small "explosions", not popping). and i'm sure my dealer will look at the bike......for $100/hour. i don't understand why it's so bad; a friend of mine has an S2R1000 and has full arrows, and fully opened airbox, and stock ECU, and zero popping problems. go figure.
it sucks...because i love the c/f arrows sound, look, and weight savings, but these just belong on a bike that's set up differently i guess. maybe i'll get the stock cans powdercoated black or something so they're not totally lame. at least i'll still have a loud clutch.
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on May 27, 2009, 05:19:06 AM
the leak is really not bad on the front pipe, just a wisp of exhaust; i can't imagine even if it was 100% sealed up it would do much if anything at this point, as the popping is rampant, especially when you hit 5k and lower (it's more like small "explosions", not popping). and i'm sure my dealer will look at the bike......for $100/hour. i don't understand why it's so bad; a friend of mine has an S2R1000 and has full arrows, and fully opened airbox, and stock ECU, and zero popping problems. go figure.
it sucks...because i love the c/f arrows sound, look, and weight savings, but these just belong on a bike that's set up differently i guess. maybe i'll get the stock cans powdercoated black or something so they're not totally lame. at least i'll still have a loud clutch.
Hey man, I'm no expert on Ducatis[just an auto tech w/o a job], but I had/have the issue; I bougth the gaskets, some exhaust paste installed such gaskets with some exhaust paste[the grey stuff] and guess what... NO more popping...plus somehow, I managed to push the pipes about 1/2" monre into the headers and yes I also bought new clamps.
Maybe you should try it once more with the gaskets, paste and clamps, who knows, maybe it'll work ???...but while you're at it have a [drink]
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on May 27, 2009, 05:19:06 AM
the leak is really not bad on the front pipe, just a wisp of exhaust; i can't imagine even if it was 100% sealed up it would do much if anything at this point, as the popping is rampant, especially when you hit 5k and lower (it's more like small "explosions", not popping).
My S4R was the exactly the same. Loud explosions. Stock ECU. Arrow pipes. The exhaust leak was barely detectable at idle. Getting the gaskets on there stopped it.
i was up in some higher altitudes over the weekend, and cooler temps...and it was still popping too much to be reasonable (read: embarrassing). i've checked with dynojet and they tell me there is no PCIII that is compatible with my year/model...so i'm out of luck there. so really it sounds like i put down money for a DP ecu or a full termi system. either option is not appealing to me at all, since they would both then require further tuning sessions on the dyno as well. i just don't have that kind of scratch laying around. sad, since i love the sound of the arrows so much...except for the popping.
so i'm thinking back to stock i go then.
Pretty sure the 710-411 PCIII USB will work on your S4R.
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on June 02, 2009, 10:56:01 AM
i was up in some higher altitudes over the weekend, and cooler temps...and it was still popping too much to be reasonable (read: embarrassing). i've checked with dynojet and they tell me there is no PCIII that is compatible with my year/model...so i'm out of luck there. so really it sounds like i put down money for a DP ecu or a full termi system. either option is not appealing to me at all, since they would both then require further tuning sessions on the dyno as well. i just don't have that kind of scratch laying around. sad, since i love the sound of the arrows so much...except for the popping.
so i'm thinking back to stock i go then.
Nick is right. There is a PC that works for your bike. But it won't help. You problem is not tuning. If you feel exhaust leaking out, you are sucking air in on decel. Bring your bike to San Diego and I'll fix it for you.
Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on June 02, 2009, 10:56:01 AM
i was up in some higher altitudes over the weekend, and cooler temps...and it was still popping too much to be reasonable (read: embarrassing). i've checked with dynojet and they tell me there is no PCIII that is compatible with my year/model...so i'm out of luck there. so really it sounds like i put down money for a DP ecu or a full termi system. either option is not appealing to me at all, since they would both then require further tuning sessions on the dyno as well. i just don't have that kind of scratch laying around. sad, since i love the sound of the arrows so much...except for the popping.
so i'm thinking back to stock i go then.
Not so fast there buddy....
No need to go silent... No pun intended Bob, but I'll repeat myself from a couple of post back, " I
bougth the gaskets, some
exhaust paste installed such gaskets with some exhaust paste[the grey stuff] and guess what...
NO more popping...plus somehow, I managed to
push the pipes about 1/2" more into the headers and yes I also
bought new clamps."
Plus silentbob says
"My S4R was the exactly the same. Loud explosions. Stock ECU. Arrow pipes. The exhaust leak was barely detectable at idle. Getting the gaskets on there stopped it. Bring your bike to San Diego and I'll fix it for you"This option might cost, say $60.00? I'm saying, here in Panama chemicals get taxed pretty hard, exhaust paste costed $25.00 for a 8oz jar, both clamps $40.00{yes, OEM], a little 280 grit sandpaper[used] and a must while working, music and cold beer. Try it out, if it doesn't work, blame me,
I'll drink one for you with my dinner... [drink]
ok guys, doing a little thread mining, i know, but my S4R is giving me the shits! the arrow exhaust is fine but those std stubby headers are rubbish as is the stupid flange gasket arrangement. i've replaced 4 sets of those ring gaskets and they seal ok for a while but within a couple of thousand klms it starts leaking and gradually gets worse until i fix it.........again! the 2nd time i pulled it apart the front cyl. header fell apart into 3 pieces.
so in short, i have just bought a set of 996 headers which have the facility for a slip joint that seats using springs for tension and i'm going to chop my arrow mid pipes and lengthen them to suit. the vert. cyl header bends to the right not the left but that's a small issue which will be sorted when i get it all fabricated up.
oh, i run a DP ecu, K&N filter with a letter box cut out and the open c/f arrows, the tps is correct and the throttle bodies have been balanced. i'll let you all know how i get along because i'm sure i'm not the only one who has had a gutfull of a cheap arse set up on this bike.
paul.