Before I re-install the clutch push rod, should I lube it? I thought I read somewhere to lube it with anti seize before inserting it. I was thinking oil or maybe synthetic grease. I wasn't sure if the rod is exposed to the engine oil inside the crankcase so I didn't want to put anything on it until I can confirm that.
Quote from: kawazar on March 11, 2009, 08:37:00 AM
Before I re-install the clutch push rod, should I lube it? I thought I read somewhere to lube it with anti seize before inserting it. I was thinking oil or maybe synthetic grease. I wasn't sure if the rod is exposed to the engine oil inside the crankcase so I didn't want to put anything on it until I can confirm that.
I've had the clutch/push rod out several times, and I use a thin film of waterproof grease rather than anti-sieze.
Make sure the tiny o-rings are intact, and be gentle refitting it. Also make sure the pressure plate is seated properly after everything is bolted up prior to fitting the clutch cover.
I think pompetta pretty well spelled it out there. I'd probably use Mobil Synthetic grease, but it really doesn't matter.
Yes it does come in contact with oil in your motor, and no a little grease or anti-seize won't hurt the oil in your motor. But not greasing the rod and it's seals could damage the seals, creating an oil leak.
I think that is what happened. I pulled it out one time and it was dry then I put it back dry. A season later I have an oil leak from the o-rings behind the slave. Should I grease the o-rings on the slave too? Maybe some dielectric grease on those?
Quote from: kawazar on March 11, 2009, 11:01:01 AM
Should I grease the o-rings on the slave too? Maybe some dielectric grease on those?
Talking about the o-rings that part part of the slaves piston? If so the directions on my Evo slave said to lube the o-rings w/ some clean brake fluid.
If you haven't had reason to take the slave apart, I'd advise that you don't until there's actually a leak that needs fixing there. It'll be brake fluid rather than engine oil. If you took it back out due to an oil leak, I'd advise you to replace all the seals on the push rod.
If you are using the stock slave, and it's not been apart, just clean it, and check for leaks.
I was talking about the o-rings on the pushrod not the slave. The oil leak I have appears to be coming from the o-rings on the push rod. The clutch slave I replaced last year and it is fine.
That's what I thought. You should definately replace all the o-rings on the pushrod now. And do the grease thing. Again, I doubt the kind of grease will matter too much, and don't worry about a little grease getting in your oil. You aren't slathering the whole rod in it.
Quote from: kawazar on March 11, 2009, 02:06:35 PM
I was talking about the o-rings on the pushrod not the slave. The oil leak I have appears to be coming from the o-rings on the push rod. The clutch slave I replaced last year and it is fine.
+1 on the grease and careful insertion of the rod.
Still leaks? Look very carefully at the alt cover seal near the slave cylinder bolts.
BK
I don't want to sound like a dumb ass but I'm only greasing the last few inches of each end of the rod or do I coat the whole thing? Like Smokescreen said "You aren't slathering the whole rod in it.". I assumed you put a light coat on the whole rod. I got the o-ring and seal kit from LT Snyder. I thought it was the side cover gasket at first because I just replaced the slave last year. After I got the slave off I could see it was coming from the rod hole, so the o-rings should solve my problem.
You want to grease the o-rings. It wouldn't hurt to put a very thin layer of grease on the whole rod, you just don't need to slather it in grease. The ends? I guess you can put grease there, but really it'd be the end going in first (just a little) and the o-rings. In reality the grease is so that the rings don't hang up or get caught up. At some point the job will be done via the oil in the case, save for anywhere there is a double o-ring seal. Here the outer ring would need the grease as a long term lubrication thing. I assume you got the Monster maint book from LT also? If you haven't, you'd be well served to get it.
I placed an order and forgot to add it. I'm waiting for him to get back from military duty to place order. Thanks guys!
One more question, the piece that fits on the end of the rod and inserts into the clutch hub bearing, should that come off of the rod easy or should it be a snug fit. Mine moves so I know I can pull it off but wasn't sure if it should be nice and loose and fall off.
If I remember my reading correctly, it can be a hassle to take off, but on my bike I didn't put any effort in at all, just came off when requested. You are talking about the cap on the pressure plate end yeah? The one at the bearing?
Thats the one. It fits on the end of the rod and then it goes in the middle of the bearing. I guess I just want to be sure everything is good since I have it all apart.
When I removed my pressure plate last, that end cap fell right out. Were it not for the fact that it says STM on it, and i'd seen the STM badge before, I'd have been uncertain where it went.
i am installing a speedymoto pressure plate with new springs/screws/caps and
i've found some great info in this thread, thanks.
i have a couple other questions to ask:
1) the pushrod cap is stuck inside the throwout bearing on the OEM p-plate when i
pulled it off. how the heck do i get that thing outta there? it's pretty stuck in. Also,
my speedymoto p-plate didn't come with the cap installed inside the bearing; is it
okay to re-use the OEM pushrod cap, assuming i can get it out of the bearing?
2) what is the proper technique for cleaning out the 'tunnel' that the clutch pushrod
goes into?
3) i want to buy a new pushrod as i think the OEM p-rod on it's last legs; it looks like it's
been on a lathe. can someone suggest a place to get a new pushrod & possibly p-rod cap?
PS - this is a 1994 900 V2 engine.
okay it looks like i can order the rings from Desmo Times, but still not sure where to get
a new push rod.
i saw one on ebay but it looks pretty used.
i got the pushrod cap out of the OEM bearing with a small tap of the plastic hammer after some WD-40 soaked in.
ordered a new pushrod from the Duck dealer.
i love doing my own work.....it makes the discovery (this morning) of needing a new clutch basket and plates a
little easier to swallow.