I scored a Wider heated vest at a garage sale and it came with this enormous control box with a knob on it to adjust the heat.
Two problems:
A) It's make the beast with two backsing gigantic. I want to permanently mount a knob to the bike. I want to just plug in and call it a day.
B) I don't think it actually does anything. I used a battery charger to power the box, and an auto turn signal bulb on the other side of the box. Turning the knob does nothing. In the off position, the bulb is off. At "1", the bulb is on. At "10" it's still just as bright.
What am I missing here? Should this controller be doing something it isn't?
I'd like to build my own, tiny, version of this. I have little electronic knowledge so I'll need help, or a link that might help.
Help.
;D
how many watts is the vest? if the knob goes between 20 and 200 watts a 15 watt bulb will always be bright. (i think that is how it works [laugh] )
check the resistance with a multi meter
Quote from: aaronb on March 19, 2009, 06:29:37 PM
how many watts is the vest? if the knob goes between 20 and 200 watts a 15 watt bulb will always be bright. (i think that is how it works [laugh] )
check the resistance with a multi meter
Yea, you gotta put a load on the output equivlentto the vest. Better yet, used thevest and Use a volt meter instead of a lightbulb.
http://www.elecfree.com/electronic/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/high-current-variable-voltage-regulator-2-36v-10a.jpg (http://www.elecfree.com/electronic/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/high-current-variable-voltage-regulator-2-36v-10a.jpg)
Be sure to use a big heatsink..
Quote from: Ducnial on March 19, 2009, 06:57:25 PM
Yea, you gotta put a load on the output equivlentto the vest. .....
that is what i was trying to say, thanks.
Quote from: aaronb on March 19, 2009, 06:29:37 PM
how many watts is the vest? if the knob goes between 20 and 200 watts a 15 watt bulb will always be bright. (i think that is how it works [laugh] )
check the resistance with a multi meter
Good point.
My meter is MIA. So I came up with the bulb idea.
Good point on the wattage. Looks like the vest sucks up 33watts at full boil
Quote from: Ducnial on March 19, 2009, 06:57:25 PM
Yea, you gotta put a load on the output equivlentto the vest. Better yet, used thevest and Use a volt meter instead of a lightbulb.
http://www.elecfree.com/electronic/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/high-current-variable-voltage-regulator-2-36v-10a.jpg (http://www.elecfree.com/electronic/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/high-current-variable-voltage-regulator-2-36v-10a.jpg)
Be sure to use a big heatsink..
FWIW the controller that I have now is *much* less complicated internally that what's on that diagram. And I don't even know what all's on that diagram [laugh]
Turning the knob puts screw tension on a metal bar. Looks like a big X in there. One wire to one leg of the X, one wire to the other. They're some how insulated from each other, except where current passes through the center post. There's also a little coil of wire, and a green thing. [laugh]
The green thing jumps the + and - (I think)
Quote from: Monsterlover on March 19, 2009, 08:09:21 PM
Good point.
My meter is MIA. So I came up with the bulb idea.
Good point on the wattage. Looks like the vest sucks up 33watts at full boil
Get yourself a 3 or 4 amp rheostat and call it good.
You`re actually should look for a DC motor speed controller. It works on Pulse width modulation. I had a link for one for about $25 I was going to use for a heated jacket I made; I`ll see if I can find it.
Quote from: mookieo2 on March 19, 2009, 08:28:22 PM
You`re actually should look for a DC motor speed controller. It works on Pulse width modulation. I had a link for one for about $25 I was going to use for a heated jacket I made; I`ll see if I can find it.
Thanks for the correction...
Quote from: mookieo2 on March 19, 2009, 08:28:22 PM
You`re actually should look for a DC motor speed controller. It works on Pulse width modulation. I had a link for one for about $25 I was going to use for a heated jacket I made; I`ll see if I can find it.
I don't know what Wider uses, but Gerbing and Warm&Safe use a pulse width modulator. A rheostat would get kinda warm.
Some reason you cant put on the vest, set the controller to one, wait ten minutes, then turn it to ten and see if it gets hotter? that would sort of tell you if it was working.
Lazyness ;D
Here it is!
http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/MX033 (http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/MX033)
If you wanted you can unsolder the Pot and attach some wire to it to remotely mount it near your bars or wherever you would like. You can get a case from Radio Shack for it for a few bucks.
I have the same vest! does the on/off switch look like it came off a lamp? [laugh]
I never use the box that it came with it the knob looks like one of those oven timers you use in the kitchen I have just learned to turn it off if it gets too hot. It works great best $15.00 bucks I ever spent!
Here's a pic of the control box I have now.
The knob is in the middle of the X, obviously, and spreads the two bars apart the more you tighten it.
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/9602/misc005.jpg)
Crude.
Quote from: Monsterlover on March 20, 2009, 02:38:04 PM
Here's a pic of the control box I have now.
The knob is in the middle of the X, obviously, and spreads the two bars apart the more you tighten it.
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/9602/misc005.jpg)
looks like a bimetal assembly. You adjust the gap between the conductors, they touch and heat up, but when they get hot enough, they separate, then as they are cooling, they touch again and then start heating up, repeat. Much like thermostat for your furnace, only it uses the surrounding air to judge if the current should flow or not.
mitt
So you guys think this PWM controller thing is the way to go?
Quote from: Monsterlover on March 22, 2009, 07:17:44 AM
So you guys think this PWM controller thing is the way to go?
Absolutely. Solid state, smaller and more consistent.
Maybe it relies on the vibration of the bike to pulse modulate. [laugh] Thanks for posting that. I like to see older solutions to things before solid state took over. [thumbsup] That said I agree with everyone else, buy the smaller PWM thing that you can install on the bike itself.
Quote from: mitt on March 21, 2009, 05:23:59 PM
looks like a bimetal assembly. You adjust the gap between the conductors, they touch and heat up, but when they get hot enough, they separate, then as they are cooling, they touch again and then start heating up, repeat. Much like thermostat for your furnace, only it uses the surrounding air to judge if the current should flow or not.
mitt
The two arms of the X don't touch. The "inner" arm stays as is (that I can see) the "upper arm" is the one that is "bendable" Turning the knob tightens a screw against the center of the upper arm, putting a bow in it. As far as I can tell, they don't touch except at this point.
I think I'll get the pwm deal.
Thanks for all the input guys!
You dont need it if the vest doesn't get that hot! just get a on/off switch. when I ride with it on the freeway around 50 degrees its nice and warm I haven't had to adjust it at all. I would test it out first before you make any plans to make it adjustable you may not need it, I have the exact same box and have never used it the on/off switch that came with it looks like a switch that controls a table lamp and thats all you need I wouldnt mess around with it too much its old tech and you dont want to turn your vest into an electronic grill! [laugh]
Too late, pwm controller already on order ;D
8)
I got mine really cheap and it was never used, it came with all the accessories and it was all sealed in plastic. the date on the printed instructions was 1981. I have used mine for 2 years and no problems the cord did come out of one of the white plastic connectors but that has been the only thing that has happened. keep in mind that it is not the newer version that uses radiant heat I believe the term is but these are more along the lines of an eclectic blanket. with that said let me know how it works out but I am very happy with mine.
To update you all:
I got the PWM controller and paid a local audio shop to unsolder the pot and extend it 5 feet. I didn't feel comfortable that I could do it and not get solder places it's not supposed to be.
I got a case at radio shack and trimmed the lid to allow the heat sink (or is it sync?) to stick through. I soldered some leads to the board and ran them through a grommet.
I took apart the wider wiring so that I could use their plugs with my own wiring.
The original wiring was old and I felt like it might contribute to me being burned alive so I redid it all.
It works *very* well. With the knob full ccw it's off. Full cw is almost uncomfortably hot with somewhere in the middle being just right.
Total cost was $50 for everything and I mounted the knob on my little aluminum plate "dash" I have bolted to the bar clamps, right next to the grip heater switch.
Other than what you can see coming off the pot all the wiring is hidden :)
Thank you to everyone who posted here.
Well, except mrinc. I just like to defy your logic ;D
;)