Ducati Monster Forum

I am not looking to start a flame war on which brand is "the best",  but looking to put a slipper clutch on my S4Rs as well as a hugger.  Just looking for function and reliability.  Also wondering if a larger slave cylinder has any real benefits or is it just more bling.  As far as the hugger goes, I have read good things about Shift-Tech- what do you think of their quality or should I stay w/DP stuff?  I am a minimalist as far as looks go and not looking for lots of colorful anodized parts- in fact was wondering if it would be possible/practical to use my stock clutch cover over the slipper.  Are the open covers serving any other purpose than accentuating the classic clatter of the dry clutch?  I have the full DP 50mm Termi setup now (w/ECU and airbox mods) and that's about it.
Thanks in advance,
Gary
 [coffee]

Aftermarket slave cylinders will lighten your clutch pull.  Shift-Tec has some great quality CF.  If you don't want to spring for a new clutch cover, don't it has no effect on performance

Hi Gary,

I had quite a bit of carbon fiber on my M620; bought some of it used off ebay, and some new.  I prefer Shift-Tech over most of the Ducati Performance carbon fiber pieces: Shift-Tech is very well made and has a minimal amount of shiny clearcoat, which can't always be said for the DP stuff (I think they subcontract a lot of their CF stuff out to different vendors from time to time so you never know what you're gonna get).

DP is also more expensive than Shift-Tech.  Not worth it.

Don't have experience with the after-market slave cylinders, but I know that when people make the change, it's more of a ease of operation consideration rather than the bling factor (not there's anything wrong with that!)

Lisa

I like http://www.motowheels.com (http://www.motowheels.com)
I'm not mechanically inclined but like their selection and prices from what I've seen.

If use motowheels be sure to register to their site and you'll get a small discount on most of your purchases

shift tech used to offer slight discounts to us too (haven't checked recently, but the guy was always awesome to deal with).  Shift tech's stuff is top notch, wouldn't hesitate if I was looking, again, the guy (Guido I think?) was always VERY nice and service was great

Thanks for the info.  I think I'll get the hugger and front/rear chain guards from Shift-Tech.  Looking for info ref slipper clutches as far as reliability and function....don't mind paying for something that works and will last.  I also want to shorten the tail w/o cutting my frame ....any painless recommendations?

chain guard??  un-cut tail?  on a monster???

I know....its just not right! [laugh]

Even though the Tricolore is not that limited, I'm saving all my stock parts and trying to keep the "limited" stuff nice...not to mention cutting on it.  Probably after I've had it awhile I'll become more adventuresome.

Gary

if you're bent on keeping the tail...the shorty c/f tailpiece is pretty nice; CJ's 695 has one.

Is it a DP piece or other make?

Gary

if it isn't DP, it's probably shifttech

and if you're just worried about the clutch pull of the dry clutch, just get one of these: http://www1.dealextreme.com/productimages/sku_13538_1_small.jpg (http://www1.dealextreme.com/productimages/sku_13538_1_small.jpg)

i don't mind the clutch pull on mine, and i have a stock slave on it, and new speedymoto springs.  of course, i use one of these at work throughout the day: http://www.rei.com/product/496308 (http://www.rei.com/product/496308)

also, depending on the slave, i believe you will alter your friction zone slightly.  but someone with more experience can chime in there.

sure is taking you guys a long time to reply with requisite masturbation jokes.  ::disappointed::

i'll leave those jokes to the professionals here

as far as the clutch engagement zone, that only affects a small number of ducs with slightly different sized clutch engagement rods, you should be fine





lots of material there for all you filthy minds  :P

pssst........... Wrong forum :-)

That's what she said.

didn't know you were talking to her

I'm also considering a new clutch slave cylinder.  Having compared my dry clutch pull to a wet clutch, it just isn't fair  :-\.  Dax will probably argue the dry clutch sound is worth the extra effort.

Does anyone know what the stock slave cylinder piston diameter is?  I'm assuming the aftermarket ones use a smaller piston diameter to decrease the amount of required force.

I have the MPL slave on my ST4s and other than the red anodization turning a little maroon, I really like the performance. about 25% easier than stock and I didn't notice a difference in friction zone. If there is a difference, it is negligable.

Steve

Yes, I am a tail purist (there are others ;D)--chopping makes me cringe.  :P

I got mine from Monster Parts. I can't say enough about their service and communication.  [thumbsup]

http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/ZU-C010EDM/Bodywork-Carbon/ZU-C010EDM.html (http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/ZU-C010EDM/Bodywork-Carbon/ZU-C010EDM.html)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3485/3253049741_a46925546c.jpg?v=1233772305)

Late to this party but I heartily back all good comments on Shift-Tech CF. They are good folks, their parts are all over my bikes, great quality and good price and service. You won't be disappointed. [thumbsup]

Yes, that looks good.....I'll look them up. 

Thanks,
Gary

I like the full "beer tray" look... not a tail chopper. And as a matter of fact I have indeed put a cold adult beverage on my Monster's "beer tray" and I have to say it worked great!!! [thumbsup] [drink]

Well my shopping list is almost $2k....and I guess I've saved the most expensive piece for last.  Does anyone have a recommendation for a slipper clutch or one to stay away from?  I have been looking at the DP, STM, EVR(?) or is there any other brand I'm overlooking?  I am looking at function, reliability and if it lessens the pull at the lever thats fine too.  I am going to order the stuff so it gets home just before I do.

Thanks,
Gary

No personal recs on slippers. I have heard that going for the 48 tooth models is allegedly better than the standard 12 tooth design. But they also cost more... I think. My only experience with a slipper was with a vintage 1997 era STM/EVR (when they were one company) model and it was the the most ragged piece of s#@t I have ever used. Jeff Nash said he used those racing in that era and that he'd go through 2 or 3 every race weekend. I replaced it with a standard factory clutch as fast as I could. Thankfully the slippers today are awesome. No comparison. At least that is what I have read.

I am sure you will get some good recs from the board. And you are right... you did save the most expensive for last. :P They can be very expensive.

I believe that someone in an earlier post said to try a clutch slave. I agree big time. Every one of my Ducs has an Evoluzione clutch slave and they definitely helped with lever pull and were well worth the money. Several brands out there and I am sure they all work as well as mine. Get stuck in a bad stop and go traffic jam and you won't believe the arm pump!!!! Bad juju. Once is all I needed to make me try the clutch slave. [bang]

+1 on any info for a decent slipper.  I am looking into it for my duc.  It's hard going back to a Duc from a inline and deal with engine torque on down shifts and decel.  Also, don't want to thread jack, but he might be interested too, is there an aftermarket throttle that would make it less choppy?  It seems on my old S4R and on my 900 now, even if I just barely roll on or off on slow speed corners, it's so choppy that it will actually cause major weight shift and throw off my line and control.  Thanks

Damn good question T. Don't know of any aftermarket throttles with different twist ratios for the 900 Supersports. But I bet someone out there does. I know there are some quick 1/4 turn throttle options for the 999s and 1098s. Don't know about the rest of the family.

Chime in folks on slippers and throttle twist options. Almost sounds like you want to slow the throttle response down which would be the opposite of the 1/4 turn upgrade. I think Scott had the 1/4 turn system on the 1098S and I think he went the other way back to stock. I think. Maybe it was just Randy and I talking about it. Either way, doesn't sound like the way you want to go. You want to go slower... right? Could just be a learning curve after the R6. Got used to one scooter's throttle and now you have a new bike and throttle to learn. I don't know. Let's see who chimes in... RichD????

slower on the throttle = faster in the corner, for me that is.  Maybe it's different for me, I dont know.  Maybe it's a weight shift thing. (which I have a lot of...)  Everyone know's I have no problem redlineing a 1098s, its just that I cant seem to get the throttle control mastered in a corner.  Maybe a slipper would help this too?

I can't see how a slipper would help once you have your speed set and going through the turn.  I do think you're right about the throttle, but it sounds like a precision issue. 

Poor precision could be caused by a sloppy throttle tube, which even the new 848 - 1098's have.  The throttle tube has a lot of wobble on the bar, which can pull on your throttle cables when it wobbles.  Dan Kyle makes a really nice aluminum throttle tube with needle bearings on each end.  Zero wobble, super smooth throttle, but it's so light, you have to be more precise with your throttle control.  It also has a snail shaped cam, which gives you slower throttle down low, and quicker throttle at the top end.  I liked it on my 1098.  He may have the same tube without the bearings, which would still be more precise than the stock tube.

It could also be your cable adjustment is loose.  You should be able to rotate the throttle slightly back and forth at idle without it pulling the cables. But not too much slack, because if you go to idle throttle position in a turn, and then roll it back on, it will not be a smooth transition when you start tensioning the cable again.  That's the first thing I'd check.

Another trick I think I've heard some people do, is raise their idle speed, so when you're going through a turn, your throttle is still slightly open if you happen to go to neutral throttle (idle position).  On a fast sweeper, this is unlikely, because you're still on the gas, but in a slower corner you might be backing it off all the way.

i'm in the same boat on corners...it was a real pregnant dog on some of those corners at the ams day last fall; very minor adjustments on the throttle equaled a tremendous shift in suspension on the monster.  i wasn't trying to make a habit of backing off throttle in a corner or anything, but just little corrections seemed magnified by the wicked engine brake.  i really need to get on a japanese bike or a d675 sometime for comparison.

I think part of that is also suspension setup. I hate to get too general, but maybe add a click or two of rebound to keep the front end from decompressing too quickly.

That's probably part of T's problem too, since he is notorious for having suspension setup problems, at least on the 1098.

yeah...that's very true...i just put mine back to the stock settings basically...it's 100% not set up for me.

I think you described my issues perfectly Ronr.... So, when you gonna come set my bike up [popcorn]



 [laugh]

I would have done it already, but you're too busy posting

 [laugh] [laugh] [laugh]

:'(

 :-*


Seriously, get them springs replaced and/or adjusted.  Better than any other mod, and pretty cheap unless you do the major upgrades   [thumbsup]

Thanks for all of the recommendations...I am looking at the ADIGE APTC slipper clutch....anyone have any pros/cons?
Thanks,
GH

On Clutch Slave - you can get them in "natural" or "titanium" colored ano so they don't stand out. It reduced the clutch pull and seemed to lengthen the engagement range on my bike. Older bikes had slaves that would go bad as well, so that was part of it.

Opening a clutch, or venting it serves more purposes besides letting it "sing" - It cools the plates and removes dust which is supposed to preserve the life of the plates. Slippers also wear faster than non slippers because the plates slide/slip more frequently.

A good respring of the suspenders is money well spent.