hoping someone can help. You know that sound you sometimes hear from a car , like when it's stopped at lights, and the air con or something comes on and you hear that squealing sound, like the belts need lube or something? Well my bikes making that noise now quite frequently from the clutch assembly area. It does it when hot only. When i rev bike, it changes pitch, then settles in again. It rover like belt squeal, but i really can't pinpoint and sounds like clutch related. I run open cover, and had belts replace recently. I pulled plates apart, cleaned, replace bearing, noise is still there when bike is hot. It sounds like there's some sort of friction going on inside there somewhere. It's like a squeaking, squealing sound. Kinda rubbery sounding. My clutch fluid in reservoir gets dirty quick after a couple thousand k's. I'm using MPL slave. Clutch feels ok. No noticeable slipping. Plates are quite worn. I don't think that's the problem. Any help appreciated. Bike is 2006 s2r1k. Thanks a lot.
Since the belts were replaced recently, I'd be worried the whine was from them being too tight. Who did the work?
You could check belt tension yourself just to be safe.
I've heard my dry clutch make lots of noises, and finally give it up, but I've never hear a "whine."
Hopefully, someone more knowledgeable will chime in.
Quote from: pompetta on March 26, 2009, 03:47:56 AM
Since the belts were replaced recently, I'd be worried the whine was from them being too tight. Who did the work?
You could check belt tension yourself just to be safe.
I've heard my dry clutch make lots of noises, and finally give it up, but I've never hear a "whine."
Hopefully, someone more knowledgeable will chime in.
belts were done at local Duc Dealer, but might be worth a check. The sound is like when the fan belt or something on a car starts that squealing sound. When this has happened to my car, i spray some silicon lube on it and it stops. Just not sure if i wanna spray anything on the belts. Could it damage them or make them slip?
Quote from: GraGra on March 26, 2009, 04:22:04 AM
belts were done at local Duc Dealer, but might be worth a check. The sound is like when the fan belt or something on a car starts that squealing sound. When this has happened to my car, i spray some silicon lube on it and it stops. Just not sure if i wanna spray anything on the belts. Could it damage them or make them slip?
Don't spray
anything on the belts. Have the shop who did the work (re)check the tension.
Dry clutches will groan when slipped, but I've never heard one whine either.
I have heard of a lot of belt tensioner failures on the 1K motors particularly if the dealer is using the original spec for tension.
Call the dealer. If the noise is from a tensioner you can have a catastrophic failure. Never spray any lube or dressing on any belt except the one that holds your pants up.
what happens w a tensioner failure and what sort of consequences are we talking about here? I'm currently touring and about 1000k's fr the nearest and only dealer in thailand. I think the tensioner may be the culprit as it sits very close to where the clutch basket is and i can hear the squeal speed up and slow down in correlation to engine revs. But it will also change pitch upon actuation of clutch. Is there anything i can do myself while on the road to check the tensioner? If i release the tension and spin it by hand, maybe i can feel play or roughness in it?
If the belt breaks anything from a bent valve or two to catastrophic engine damage.
Belts are something you can check on the road with minimal tools. All you need is an allen wrench to take off the belt covers and a stick to prop the tank open.
First, look for any strange wear on the belts, especially the outside surface that runs on the idler and tensioner. Feeling the tension on the belts is not as easy to describe. They should be against the idler and tensioner, but if you push moderately on the belt, you should be able to open a small gap (maybe 2 to 3mm) between the belt and the wheels. Make sure all the wheels turn by hand smoothly and relatively easy.
Good luck. Another 1000ds owner hear who has never heard a whine.
mitt
I get a funny noise when my clutch pack is about done. I've actually got it right now. When I take off hard the plates will slip a bit and make a high pitched sound almost like a band saw cutting wood. I don't feel much slip but I know it is. You said your plates are pretty worn, are they glazed too?
If the sound changes when you actuate the clutch, that indicates that the problem is probably clutch related, and not the cam belts. Since someone else installed your belts, it would still be a good idea (and easy enough to do) to pull the belt covers and make sure everything is alright.
Quote from: erkishhorde on March 26, 2009, 11:35:57 AM
I get a funny noise when my clutch pack is about done. I've actually got it right now. When I take off hard the plates will slip a bit and make a high pitched sound almost like a band saw cutting wood. I don't feel much slip but I know it is. You said your plates are pretty worn, are they glazed too?
yes, plates were a bit glazed when i unpacked to check before starting trip. Strangely enough today, after about 250 k's of twisty stuff, not any whine all day. It's been a bit cooler though... Belt tension seems ok. Hopefully she'll get me back to town and i'll have her fully checked out. Thanks for all the responses...
Quote from: GraGra on March 27, 2009, 01:22:19 AM
yes, plates were a bit glazed when i unpacked to check before starting trip. Strangely enough today, after about 250 k's of twisty stuff, not any whine all day. It's been a bit cooler though... Belt tension seems ok. Hopefully she'll get me back to town and i'll have her fully checked out. Thanks for all the responses...
[laugh] People warn that you could have catastrophic engine failure and you go put on 250 km lol. No fear. [laugh] You're a braver man than I.
now, about 5mins after my last post, she starts to whine. Anyway, you need 2 understand where i am. I'm now 800k's from bangkok and a stone's throw from the burmese border. Short of packing up the bike on the back of a truck and going home, i'm riding this one out. After reading these responses and checking things again on the bike, here's what i've found. Clutch actuation has a negligible effect on sound. My mistake identifying before. This lead me to believe it was a tensioner problem. As it only happens when bike is hot, a friend mentioned the metals could expand, creating the squealing sound. I pulled the cover again today, and tested tension with allen key sliding ; the ca cycleworks way. There's no way i can get even a 4mm key past the tensioner roller. So it seems belts are way too tight and i cannot even see that the adjusters have even been moved at all from stock. Is it possible to replace belts without moving these? I will try to adjust them tmrw myself, but i need a strong tool to get in there and break the hex bolts free! I'm starting to feel dark on the dealer. Ps. My headlight has stopped working. It's not the bulb, there's no wiring problems, no fuses blown, someone said that the 'relay' mechanism for these bikes is inside the insurment housing and i need the dealer to look at that! True?
Check to make sure that all of the rollers (both the movable and fixed) rotate freely.
It's possible that one of them is starting to go bad.
The cylinders expand as they get hot, so then the belts are tighter.
You cannot remove belts without loosening the movable roller.
The bolts are usually quite tight.
Is one or both of your belts getting shiny on the outside?
Are any rollers getting blue?
When it's squealing, look at the rollers and see if one of 'em isn't turning, or is turning slowly.
After checking all the bearings try setting the belts at 5 mm. The bearings may still be good. Yeah, 5mm may be loose for a 1000, but not loose enough to jump time. Noise goes away, belt tension was too tight. Search the internet for programs to measure Hertz and reset belts to 110 Hz.
As far as your headlight goes, there is no relay. Just wires, bulb, fuse, connector and switch. How did you determine your bulb and wiring are good?
5mm is too loose for a 1000ds. 3 would be closer to 'spec'.
mitt
A quick note to confirm that the noise was related to tension. Finally got the bike into the Duc dealer yesterday - they had bothe the tension and the headlight issue sussed and sorted within about 45 mins.
Thanks to all who offered help and advice. :)
ok you gotta tell us what dealer is on the Burmese border?
Quote from: Raux on April 21, 2009, 02:13:22 AM
ok you gotta tell us what dealer is on the Burmese border?
hahaha - none that i know of. I'm back in Bangkok now - and went to the dealer here. That's the only official dealer here in Thailand. Cheers.
Ii'm posting this back up again...very frustrating - noise is still there - and bike went back to dealer.
I hadn't really been on a proper ride for a couple of weeks - and the other day i did - a there she goes, whining away again.
So I dropped the bike back to the dealer - fortunately it was whining away when I got there.
First response was - "there was a lot of dust in the clutch basket" - which is possibly true - but unlikely because I removed and cleaned all the plates - and blew it all out just a month ago. I run an open cover - i though this was also supposed to let dust out.
I said that i thing that is unlikely the cause. And if it was dusty, why does it only happen when the make the beast with two backser is hot??? [bang]
Additionally, she's been cutting out at zero throttle opening - when stopping at lights or clutch pulled in filtering through traffic. This also was supposed fixed last time I was there by re-setting some "solenoid" thing or something - and when I asked where that was - they couldn't really show me.... :-\
Then - finally when I go back there a few hours later - they produce the throwout bearing and tell me that it was no good - this is after the other guy that looked at the bike while I was travelling supposedly replaced the original SPEEDYMOTO bearing (that has seen about 13,000k's) - believing that was the culprit in the first place - which either it clearly wasn;t - or the guy was lying to me, and didn;t really replace it. >:(
The guys at the Duc shop here showed me the used bearing - and it felt smooth as butter to spin around - but there was some very slight play between the outer and inner race. ???
Now, I haven;t been able to check this out as a solution because they also cleaned the throttle bodies insides - which were apparently very dirty - cos the bike was often stalling on zero throttle opening -- coming to a stop at lights, etc. So was it the mystery solenoid thingy = or the throttle bodies??? I'm sick of these Brian Ws here telling me the answer to everything is that is was very dirty!!! if you see my bike compared to some other shitters going around here, the make the beast with two backser is clean as a whistle. [bang]
And then as I got underway - and the bike came up to temperature, the make the beast with two backsing thing started idling all over the shop - hunting up and down between 1500- 2600 rpm - all over the place.
No whining sound though - so I hope that's fixed - BUT I had only gone a fw k's - it needs to be ridden for a while to produce the sounds.
:-\
So I take it back there - and leave it idling all up and down - scaring the shit outta everyone - the shop is right next to a hi-so cafe. ;D
And just as i come in there the fuel light comes on. Anyway - the junior mech guy guy - who make the beast with two backsed all this up, runs over to see what's going on - and another guy points at the orange fuel light - saying ahhh - you silly Brian W - you're running out of gas. Well i nearly lost it. [bang]
Turns out the the mech guy - after cleaning the throttle bodies - which I reckon should be easy as - make the beast with two backsed up the TPS and all the other shit that needs to be tweaked for my full system. - which has take about 2 make the beast with two backsen years to get all sorted out. >:(
Now - I'm hoping to make the beast with two backs that when I go there tomorrow, the shit is all sorted out.
I left the bike there at 10am on Wednesday, then back at 10 am Thursday to pick up, then 3 Pm on Thursday - after all this shit happened - and went back before close to pick her up - hoping the head guy would have road tested it, but was told that while he's confident the idling and (BTW, when I rode it, it was farting and backfiring like Chitty-chitty-Bang-Bang) - other issues are sorted, he hasn't road tested it - because guess what - I now have a flat Brian Wing rear tyre.!!!!
So - then I get the wheels only, and today was spent changing the tires at a specialist tire place - cos the Duc shop is shut cos it's a public holiday - and now Ii'm taking the wheels/tires there tomorrow mng first thing hoping that a road test by yours truly will show up no issues. [roll]
I just bet that tomorrow - someone will either have decided not to come in, or some other such screw up, to further thwart my lack of progress in solving this very frusrtrating but I'm sure incredibly simple problem to fix - whatever the make the beast with two backs it is.!!!
Vent closed.
Texas is nice...
Update on this...
...picked the bike up the next day without any misadventures. The idle was fine - perhaps a little fast - around 1300 RPM when warmed up, but bike was running good when I took it for a test spin, and still is.
(do I wind the air bleeds in or out to slow the idle - and if it is running good now, do i adjust them the same amount - or should i just leave it at this idling RPM?)
About the whining sound, they told me it was a pressure plate bearing - which i found hard to believe given my recent experiences and the way the sound occurs and doesn;t really change when I actuate the clutch. I told them so, but that I would give the benefit of the doubt and ride it anyway.
Sure enough, when the bike comes up to full temperature, the whining starts again. It can only be heard at very slow speeds (walking pace) and whilst stopped.
It seriously sounds like something related to the belts/pulleys/other spinning things - like a rubber on metal - or something not lubed right - or dry, or too tight..???????OR....? I have no idea.
When I spin the tensioner pulleys by hand, they seem ok - smooth - as did the pressure plate bearing they changed. (free).
The bike is now due for 20K kms service - valves etc - so it will be back in there soon for that.
But I'm at a loss about what to do or how to solve this very irritating problem. Despite my every effort to explain the nature (even letting them listen to the sqealing) and history of the problem, they seem unable to rationally figure and test a final solution to this.
Short of telling them to replace all the bearings and testing it all myself again, I'm at a loss.
Iis there anything else inside the engine that could be making this sound?
It sounds like it could be coming from the main drivepulley - but I'm really not sure.
Would spraying some WD40 or similar carefully into these possible locations be an option - belt covers off - and while engine is running - at least that might help me know where the sound is coming from if the sound stops...?
I'd be careful not to get it onto the actual belts...or is this just dumb?
I was planning on having them remove the heads so I can clean, port and polish and paint them while the 20K service is going on, but now I'm not so sure this won't also result in further unecessary problems.
Any thoughts welcome...and yes, Texas looks nice.
Turn the air bleeds in equally, maybe 1/8 a turn at a time.
A mechanic's stethoscope or even a long screwdriver held against the component (not the spinning part) can help pinpoint the problem. Don't spray WD-40. The bearings won't care since they are sealed, but the belts won't be happy. You can spray water if you want. Unfortunately, we can't hear the noise over the internet. I think it is time for you to get a second opinion.
Just thought I'd post up the final note on this - to cut a long story short, all 4 tensioner bearings have been replaced after much faffing about, and so far so good - the whining noise is gone.
The bike however, seems to be running slightly rougher at low RPM - but that's another story and another thread post...
Thanks to Howie and all those that offered help and advice. [beer]
G.