does anyone know anything about these sprockets looking at buying one, just looking for some input on quality and fitment.http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=80593114&store=Main&catId=&productId=p805931&leafCatId=&mmyId=5774 (http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=80593114&store=Main&catId=&productId=p805931&leafCatId=&mmyId=5774)
or any other brand suggestions would be greatly appreciated, just putting in an order to dennis kirk figured i might add this too
my $.02... I bought a 14t at my local dealer, and it was a Renthal, I believe. It made a world of difference and has never given me any quality control related problems, so I am happy... it wasn't that expensive, either.
cheapest, bestest mod you can do...
Talk to Chris.
http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/shop/catalog/ducati/chain.html (http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/shop/catalog/ducati/chain.html)
Afam 14t $35 - $40.
LA
any oppinions on the renthals? Afam? the afam seems to be a really good price. renthals similar?
i keep hearing that this is the thing to do, so i just may
I have the light weight Ducati 14t drilled sprocket. Mine was $53 from the dealer.
bought the JT sprocket from chris @ ca-cycleworks.
he has never had an issues with them, and i trust his judgement.
it's under the front sprocket cover anyway, don't care what brand is on it, as long as it works properly.
Quote from: amcloud on March 31, 2009, 10:22:22 AM
I have the light weight Ducati 14t drilled sprocket. Mine was $53 from the dealer.
yeah that is the way i'm going! why not just buy the ducati performance one for only $20 more?!?
Quote from: herm on March 28, 2009, 07:06:41 PM
cheapest, bestest mod you can do...
+1 .... I couldn't agree more.... but I will anyway. I had mine fitted at the first service.... cost not much, made a big diff [thumbsup]..... although if you're launching down Autobahns at full thrust it might not be a mod you wanna fit, but for the rest of us there's no better mod for the money IMHO.
how does it affect highway riding? around 70 to 75 mph? higher rpms? next gear up?
It's a good mod. I did on my M750, but decided to go with a 43 on the rear instead. Still got the AFAM in my toolbox w/ only a couple of hundred miles on it, if you're interested in trying it cheap, shoot me a PM.
Quote from: ducatitorrey on March 31, 2009, 06:45:26 PM
how does it affect highway riding? around 70 to 75 mph? higher rpms? next gear up?
Pulling off from a stop is better/easier.
Increases rpm about 500 in a given gear.
60 - 62 mph in 6th @ 4000 rpm (perfect place for a roll on in 6th)
70 - 72 mph @ 4500 rpm
Accelerates much faster and top end is for all intent and purpose unchanged.
Best mod and ONLY cheap mod for a Ducati.
There's no such thing as a light weight steel front sprocket. The few holes you can drill in one don't make a difference. Now a light weight rear is a whole different story - unsprung wt. etc. etc.
LA
Quote
60 - 62 mph in 6th @ 4000 rpm (perfect place for a roll on in 6th)
70 - 72 mph @ 4500 rpm
There's no such thing as a light weight steel front sprocket. The few holes you can drill in one don't make a difference. Now a light weight rear is a whole different story - unsprung wt. etc. etc.
LA
PERFECT. thats exactly what i was wondering. I also think i'm going to get a cheaper sprocket, you'll never see it, and that $30 can go somewhere else (i need to start planting quarters to grow money)
Quote from: LA on April 01, 2009, 07:54:41 AM
There's no such thing as a light weight steel front sprocket. The few holes you can drill in one don't make a difference. Now a light weight rear is a whole different story - unsprung wt. etc. etc.
LA
So why would Ducati sell 2 different front sprockets?...a solid front sprocket, and one with 8 or so ~3/8 inch holes drilled all around the sprocket? Im not saying it makes a huge difference, but they do sell two 14t front sprockets and they do label one of them lightweight.
no make $
Quote from: amcloud on April 01, 2009, 10:54:04 AM
So why would Ducati sell 2 different front sprockets?...a solid front sprocket, and one with 8 or so ~3/8 inch holes drilled all around the sprocket? Im not saying it makes a huge difference, but they do sell two 14t front sprockets and they do label one of them lightweight.
Truth and Marketing.....
It's true: The sprocket with the holes really is gonna be lighter than the solid steel one.
Its marketing: You could save the same amount of weight by carring 98 cents less change in your pocket each time you ride.
but that's rotational weight. any mathmeticians want to take a stab at what are the benefits of a lighter sprocket?
then clean the dirt of your tires.
I went to a 14T sprocket on an S2R800 and took it off about 2 weeks later. Sure it made coming off from a stop smoother, but when I was up riding twisties in the Santa Cruz mountains I found my self having to shift before and after just about every turn. 15T gives me a range wide enough to do just about everything in 3rd / 2nd gear, instead of having to go all the way up to 5th sometimes with the 14T.
I now run 15 front 42 rear and I'm really happy with that configuration. I also have an AFAM 14T sprocket with only a few hundred miles on it for sale if anyone wants one cheap :)
gotta pull the bike out of storage and check the chain and sprockets before i really do anything along with all the other preseason stuff, before i get to creative with the mods
Ok, so I have about 8500 miles on the bike, original chain and sprockets. Is it a bad idea to put a new 14T sprocket on without changing anything else?
Quote from: Raux on April 03, 2009, 01:11:19 AM
but that's rotational weight. any mathmeticians want to take a stab at what are the benefits of a lighter sprocket?
Rotating mass does make a difference. In the right circumstance, a big difference. It's a physics thing - moment of inertia or something like that. In this case the dia. of the front sprocket is so small relative to say the rear sprocket, the difference rate of acceleration of the rotating assemble due to the weight front sprocket is immeasurably small. And when you are taking weight off a rotating wheel, whether it's an internal engine part or a rear wheel and tire of the bike, taking off the weight at a point closest to the outside diameter of the wheel make the most difference.
If you were talking about unsprung weight and control by the suspension, it doesn't matter where the weight comes off - just total weight.
The moment of inertia of an object about a given axis describes how difficult it is to change its angular motion about that axis. For example, consider two discs, A and B, made of the same material and of equal mass. Disc A has a larger radius than B (therefore is thinner). Disc B is thicker and smaller in diameter. It requires more effort to accelerate disc A (change its angular velocity) because its mass is distributed farther from its axis of rotation: mass that is farther out from that axis must, for a given angular velocity, move more quickly than mass closer in. In this case, disc A has a larger moment of inertia than disc B.
LA ;D
QuoteIn this case the dia. of the front sprocket is so small relative to say the rear sprocket, the difference rate of acceleration of the rotating assemble due to the weight front sprocket is immeasurably small.
thank you
I went for a ride today (first of the season, still snow around here :'() with my newly installed 14t sprocket. What an incredible difference. I had thought about installing one last season but put it off for whatever reason. I should have listened and done it the second I got the bike. It makes the bike much more rideable. Totally recommended.
is thsi something i can do on my own at home? what kind of tools? there is a tutorial right? ill do a search.
You can do it at home, but have a torque wrench and a friend when you're ready to re-install the sprocket.
You will want your friend to hold the rear brake when you're torquing the sprocket nut, and it's pretty easy. Do a search for the correct torque. Stripping out the countershaft would not be a cheap or easy fix.
Don't know where you guys get your sprockets, but mine was $23 at the local Ducati shop. $53 as mentioned earlier is just flat out price gouging.
Back to the physics stuff. Someone had posted here that a 15T front is optimal for chainrun clearances, and better leverage at the shaft. You would of course then need to increase the rear sprocket (and or carrier) to obtain your lower final drive. I'm looking at a 15T front, and either a 43 or 44T rear. Either way, it's better accellerating than the tall stock.
Quote from: LA on April 05, 2009, 06:33:27 PM
If you were talking about unsprung weight and control by the suspension, it doesn't matter where the weight comes off - just total weight.
It does make a difference, at least on the rear suspension. Since a swingarm is a big lever, weight reduction in parts way out at the end (wheel, axle, sprocket, brake caliper/rotor, etc.) will have a much greater effect than weight reduction near the swingarm pivot (fender, shock, and so on)!
[beer]
Quote from: Paegelow on April 06, 2009, 08:53:00 PM
It does make a difference, at least on the rear suspension. Since a swingarm is a big lever, weight reduction in parts way out at the end (wheel, axle, sprocket, brake caliper/rotor, etc.) will have a much greater effect than weight reduction near the swingarm pivot (fender, shock, and so on)! [beer]
I didn't mean it makes no difference where the weight comes off the swing arm assembly. I meant so far as the suspension controlling the total unsprung weight that it has to manage it doesn't matter if the weight comes off at the axcle/center of the sprocket or wheel, just the total weight taken off. The moment of inertia thing concerns rotational weight in this case.
I agree, taking weight off at the end of the swing arm at the outside radius certainly makes a bigger difference than takeing weight off at the swing arm pivot. We are in agreement on that.
LA
Quote from: hillbillypolack on April 06, 2009, 07:52:11 PM
Don't know where you guys get your sprockets, but mine was $23 at the local Ducati shop. $53 as mentioned earlier is just flat out price gouging.
+1
Quote from: hillbillypolack on April 06, 2009, 07:52:11 PMDon't know where you guys get your sprockets, but mine was $23 at the local Ducati shop. $53 as mentioned earlier is just flat out price gouging.
+1 too
I changed my rear instead of the front. Went up two teeth (IIRC) got a black one from CA-Cycleworks and it's similar to dropping a tooth up front ~
JM
i thought up three in back was the same as down one in front?
Quote from: ducatitorrey on April 08, 2009, 08:27:26 AM
i thought up three in back was the same as down one in front?
the ducati dealership & anthony at commonwealth told me 2 up in the back is the same as one down in the front...
any reason you chose the back?
The rear-sprocket upsize is the better solution. A 14t front sprocket puts more wear and tear on the chain and sprocket. Many, myself included, choose to add a 14t front sprocket due to cost and convenience. If you change the front sprocket early in the chains life, you can use the same chain and everything will wear normally. This is probably your best option due to the limited number of miles on your bike. If you choose to replace the rear sprocket, you will have to replace the chain...the one on your bike won't fit over the new larger rear sprocket. I kept my 15t front sprocket, so when the chain and sprockets wear out, I will use my almost new 15t combined with a new chain and larger rear sprocket, creating the ideal setup for the cheapest total cost.
Quote from: ducatitorrey on April 08, 2009, 09:55:49 AM
any reason you chose the back?
Mostly so I could replace the OEM sprocket with a black one. The frame, wheels & rearsets on my M750 are black and I'm attempting to make everything possible except for the tank & cowl black. I'd also heard the well-argued point of the 14t front being hard on the chain.
JM
will this one fit the 696?
http://www.motowheels.com/italian/myproducts.cfm?parentcategoryid=893 (http://www.motowheels.com/italian/myproducts.cfm?parentcategoryid=893)|Ducati%20Monster%20Drivetrain&productID=3956&showDetail=1&categoryID=894|Monster%20SS%20Swingarm&vendoridtodisplay=0&filterFor=&collection=7|Drivetrain
14 vs 15 .................... 2/15 = 6.67% higher revs at all times.
46 vs 43 (S4R) ........... 3/43 = 6.97% higher revs at all times
44 vs 41 (S2R) ........... 3/41 = 7.31% higher revs at all times
At 4,000 rpm this means 280 rpm higher.
From a stop, let's say 2,000 rpm - it means 140 rpm.
It doesn't sound significant, but I accept that it feels different.
Quote from: Darth Paul on April 03, 2009, 07:42:01 AM
I went to a 14T sprocket on an S2R800 and took it off about 2 weeks later. Sure it made coming off from a stop smoother, but when I was up riding twisties in the Santa Cruz mountains I found my self having to shift before and after just about every turn. 15T gives me a range wide enough to do just about everything in 3rd / 2nd gear, instead of having to go all the way up to 5th sometimes with the 14T.
I now run 15 front 42 rear and I'm really happy with that configuration. I also have an AFAM 14T sprocket with only a few hundred miles on it for sale if anyone wants one cheap :)
I'm the same, never liked the 14T sprocket, can't wait to swap back to my 15T.
Based on all I have read on this forum, I am picking up my 14T from the dealer tomorrow morning...looking forward to seeing how it affects my ride.
it makes a big difference. I did it about a month ago. Huge change in low speed character. Much easier to modulate the clutch on my 696, too. I have yet to do new levers, as I have pretty big hands. It made it much easier to deal with on launches. The friction zone seems larger now.
witha 15t riding at 30mph was a pregnant dog it was in that grey area was reving too high change up and it wanted to stall.
with the 14 its trundling in second.
which is great for commuting.
Like someone else said tho the down side is that ona twistie you are changing gear alot more and not where you used to.
It takes some getting used to.
I've only done 150 miles on mine so the jury is still out i dont think it will be a unanimous verdict.
The lighter sprocket is just that, lighter. It's not the end-all link in the lightweight "game", but you learn very quickly that the sum off all the parts yeilds the total package.
I shaved some 3.5 lbs off the chain and front/rear sprockets when I went to a 14t/520/41t aluminum carrier setup.