Ducati Monster Forum

Well, I see I wasn't the only one modding this weekend...  figured I'd share my own wrenchin' pics.

The $1.69 Sidestand Switch Mod
(http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii304/duc_fan/Ducati/KickstandSwitchBybass.jpg) (http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii304/duc_fan/Ducati/KickstandSwitchBybass.jpg)
The object of attention in this photo is the grey heatshrink-wrapped diode with the blue connectors in the middle of the pic.  I tried to do it up as professionally as possible.  No hack job here.  Screw paying someone $40 for a fix for the sidestand switch.  The Amphenol connectors of the professional kits would've been nice, but not $40 nice.

The 2001 is one of the goofy years where you could only start the bike with the kickstand down up.  Well... a wire running from the kickstand switch hot lead over to the neutral switch (with a diode to keep the electrons moving the correct direction) and the problem is resolved.  Now my bike can be started with the kickstand down, as long as it's in neutral.  I tested it.  Sidestand down and in neutral... starts right up.  Leave sidestand down and flick it into 1st... kills motor.  With sidestand up, starts whether it's in neutral or not.  Perfect!

Attention to detail: if I go to sell it and someone is really anal-retentive about it being OEM... I put the splices in the pigtails for the switches, not the bike's harness.  So to return it to OEM, simply unplug the diode, thread my added wire out, and replace the sidestand and neutral switches.  The bike's harness is unscathed.
------------------------------

Rearset drop plates:
(http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii304/duc_fan/Ducati/RearsetDropBracket1.jpg) (http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii304/duc_fan/Ducati/RearsetDropBracket1.jpg)

(http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii304/duc_fan/Ducati/RearsetDropBracket2.jpg) (http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii304/duc_fan/Ducati/RearsetDropBracket2.jpg)

Of course, controls needed adjusting after dropping the pegs.  Adjusting the shifter was easy.  The rear brake pedal was trickier.  LT Snyder of Desmotimes thoughtfully includes a bent bolt to replace the rear brakelight switch bolt, since the pedal has to be adjusted way below its normal range for this rearset height.  Works great.  I've got the pedal about as far down as it'll go while still clearing the fairing when the pedal is fully depressed.  Still need to test ride it over a short distance and see whether the rear brake heats up too much... I hope I don't have the rear brake too tight.  I'd rather not catch it on fire.  ;)  Was it the Morilla who did that one time?  Adjusted the rear brake too tight and burned it up?

Oh yeah, and from what I can tell sitting on the bike (with it on the rearstand), the pegs are in a MUCH more comfortable position.  I thought they'd be way low, but I looked at my bro's Triumph 675 Daytona, and the Duc's pegs are almost the same height now, after lowering.  I'll have to take some more official measurements another time to be sure.  I shouldn't be riding rambunctiously enough on the street to drag the pegs, but I can remove the brackets if/when I take it to a trackday (that's what the CBR is for, but ya never know).
------------------------------

And lastly, just a pic from today's wrenchin'.  Garage, tools, parts, motorcycle, gasoline, and classic rock.  Top it off with occasional moments of Desmodromic thunder.  [thumbsup]  It's like therapy, man.

(http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii304/duc_fan/Ducati/Wrenchin25-3-2009.jpg) (http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii304/duc_fan/Ducati/Wrenchin25-3-2009.jpg)

Oh hey, you can see my integrated turn signal mirrors in that pic, too.  Dunno if any of you have seen my bike since I ditched the old mirrors and ugly front signals.

Nicely done.  Both the SSS and the mirrors look really clean.  The square turn signals are one of the most dated looking items on those bikes, this really freshens it up.   What I don't understand is that if you were uncomfortable on long rides why didn't you just buy a Monster? ;)

Scott

Very nice Dan  [thumbsup]

In your post you meant to say; "The 2001 is one of the goofy years where you could only start the bike with the kickstand UP". My '01 Monster had this bypass mod already done to it when I bought it used in 2004. Be careful now that you are used to it the old way. Kick stand... check! You might implement Johnny Ducati's mounting technique as he kicks up the stand before he throws his leg over.

Heck, it looks like a Monster without it's _skirt_ on. hehe

Thanks for the pointer Billy, I fixed the original post.  [thumbsup]

We'll see how long it takes to acclimate to the new way it works.  The nice thing about this mod is that I can't ride off with the sidestand down, so it's safe in that regard.  You can only start it with the stand down when it's in neutral.  Stand down, kick it into first, and it dies.  Worst case scenario for me will be some embarrassment if/when I go to leave, hit the shifter, and it dies.  :-[

Oh yeah Scott, I'd have loved to buy a Monster, and actually that's what I was shopping for before I bought the SS (hence how I got hooked into the DML, then DMF).  But... I sat on one at MotoCorsa, and it just wasn't made for someone my height.  Even Arun screwed up his face when I sat on it... when the consummate salesman doesn't want to sell it to ya, it's probably not the right bike.  And as Krolik jokes about: I'd look like a monkey f-ing a football.  ;)  Anyway, my next bike will be an Uglystrada, both for comfort and function, but I won't settle for anything less than an S model with Ohlins suspenders.  That's quite a bit more money than what my SS would sell for (money I obviously don't have right now), and these drop brackets were only $70.  Worth it to me for a more comfortable riding season, without throwing $400+ into full rearsets.  [moto]

Aw, shucks, Billy!  Thanks!!!

Just hassling you.  I'd probably get an ugly-strada too if I had the coin and yes, The S model.  I think it would be a much nicer bike for two up riding.  The Monster sucks for that.  My wife keeps telling me to get a sidecar for when we have kids.

Scott

Oh okay. That's pregnant dogin'totally then! Mine will do 122mph with the damn thing down  >:(

What? I wasn't lookin' at ur butt  [cheeky]

Dan did the hi-tech upgrade with a diode.  Billy, looks like yours was just straight hardwire bypassed if it will run in gear with it down.

Scott

Yeah, we didn't get into it tonight, but when I was over at Billy's to pick up the front stand, we were lookin' at his bike.  I noticed the sidestand doesn't have the switch on it at all anymore, so yeah, no more kickstand safety whatsoever.  On mine there's this obvious black plastic thing that's attached to the sidestand hinge with wires comin' out of it.  Well... it's obvious when the fairings are off, anyway.

The diode upgrade wasn't really challenging to install, but researching it took a bit of time.  Had to figure out what wires people were talkin' about... especially since the instructions were on the Monster board, and the SS uses a different wiring color scheme.  Once I had the gist of it, then I could wire mine up.

Literally:

1) Splice into the hot (+12v) wire that goes to the sidestand swich.

2) Splice into the single wire from the neutral switch (on the back of the engine).

3) Connect the two with a diode in the middle.

Note: Silver band on the diode (since it's a one-way thing) goes toward the neutral switch side.  It's helpful to use bullet connectors so you can reverse the diode direction if you get it wrong the first time.  Before I shrink-wrapped the diode, I used a marker on the connector on the silver band end, so I knew what the diode's polarity was.

So anyway, I spent quite a few hours researching this so I knew what to do.  After that the install was easy.  I just took my time trying to route the wiring neatly, and heat-shrink wrapping the diode.  Even with taking my time in the garage, I think I still spent quite a bit more time on the research than the actual install.

If they're the same instructions I found/used they are for 00 and earlier model Monsters.  My wires were a different color scheme as well.

We're engineers, it's what we do :)

Did the old stand fit your machine, Dan? Thanks for buying it, money back if it don't.  [drink]

True that.   [beer]


Hey man, I still need to wheel the bike outta the garage and give it a try... today's been bizarre.  Not too worried about it though, since Big E used it on his SS.  Oh hey, good news from all today's busywork: I have a phone interview for a systems engineering job near Hood River!  Not counting chickens before they hatch, though, so I'm still working on a couple of openings out in Bend/Redmond as well.  Hood River?  Redmond?  Bend?  Dang, I'd love living any of those places.  [thumbsup]

That company that makes the drones?  Insitu I think?  Those things are wicked cool.

Scott

Yep, Insitu, the UAV company.  We'll see how the interview goes.

Another cool place with an avionics engineering opening:

Epic Aircraft
(http://www.epicaircraft.com/Elite_images/Elite_07_12.jpg) (http://www.epicaircraft.com/)

They're also in Bend.

Good luck man!! If you get it... we can do road trips out that way... and you can show us any cool roads you may have found.   [thumbsup]

Abso-freaking-lutely.  [thumbsup]  I've heard there are many great motorcycling roads out that way.  My brothers were both saying they'd love it, too.  Then they could ride out, hang at my place, and use that as a starting point for a number of rides.

I'm trying not to count chickens before they hatch, not to get too excited prematurely... but it would be a freaking cool job and a great place to live!

Oh yeah, Billy: I tried out the front stand, and it works.  [thumbsup]  I can see why Mo prefers the newer design, but for half the cost of new, this one will definitely work.  :)

Super! I'm glad to hear that, Dan. Thanks.

Best of luck to you with your search. I've got my fingers crossed for you, kinda like this mmmmm bacon   [bacon]

Well, this weekend is maintenance weekend.  Got myself a head start today...  oil changed, and timing belts (finally) swapped!

I still have no idea what the issue is with the part numbers.  Ducati and MotoCorsa tell me I need the 737.1008.1A belts.  Ca-Cycleworks ships the 737.1001.1A.  When the new ones from Ca-Cycleworks arrived, I checked the belts, and they're printed with both 737.1001.1A and 737.4002.1A.  Popped off the belt covers after my oil change... round tooth belts, same number of teeth, same length, same width.  Could still read the PN on my original belts... 737.4002.3A, which according to Ducati has been superseded by the 737.1008.1A number.

Go effin' figure.  They look identical.  They fit identical.  I went ahead and installed the ones from Ca-Cycleworks.  It's a 900 desmodue, just like every other 900 desmodue... and unless someone can give me a damn good reason for spending twice as much for what appears to be nothing more than a different part number printed on it, I'm stickin' with what I've installed.

Ducati: seriously folks, get your part numbering scheme figured out.  Charging twice as much for a belt with a different number --but no other observable difference-- is just a great way to piss off your customer base.

Pics...

Belt comparison between old and new (note you can still read the PN on those 8 year old, 12,000 mile belts):
(http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii304/duc_fan/Ducati/900SS12ktimingbeltreplacement1.jpg)

The old belts weren't noticeably thinner than the new ones.  They did, however, feel dried out and stiffer.  I was surprised that the print wasn't totally worn off, either.  The belt off the horizontal cylinder was a little less legible than this, but I was still able to make out the PN.


Hey look, Dano's SS has new belts installed!
(http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii304/duc_fan/Ducati/900SS12ktimingbeltreplacement2.jpg)

I tried to get video of it running, with the belts whirring around... but for some reason my Blackberry won't save the video file after recording.

So now the dilemma is... do I attempt to check the valve clearances tomorrow, or check/swap the steering head bearings, or just say "screw it" and go for a ride?  ;)  72 degrees and sunny is awfully tempting... especially since I haven't ridden it with the lowered pegs yet, and with new belts I'm a lot less worried about them snapping.

Gawd I love riding that bike.  [moto]  Part of me wants to keep it, buy a Sargent seat, Speedymoto adjustable clipons, then throw money into tuning.  It already looks like an R-model version of the Supersport (red with white numberplates plus carbon), and it'd be a lot of fun to build it the rest of the way into an SS900R.  Ohlins front & rear, light flywheel, slipper clutch, magnesium engine side cases, lighter rotors, radial brakes...

Waste of money?  Sure.  It'd be cheaper to buy a bone-stock 848 that would easily blow its doors off.  But... I've always preferred the air/oil cooled 2-valvers.  Pure.  Simple.  Motorcycle.

And now... it's 1:30 in the morning, and I just realised I'm rambling aimlessly, so I'm gonna log off and go to bed.  Y'all have a good one, and ride safe!

your belts were 8 years old? ! ? !

what is your official rocket scientist opinion on running belts longer than the 2year/12,000 mile suggested service life?

I ran one set to 18,000+ and they were shockingly thinner with chunks missing from rock hits

the set I have on now is at 12,000 and 2 years, they inspect OK, and paranoia says change 'em

but

Do I really have to?

Ride this weekend Dan, that thing has been in the garage too long.  You can start checking into the valves and headset in a few days.

BTW, I have a digital micrometer and 2V shim measuring tool if you need to borrow them.  I'm probably going to check mine soon just because but I adjusted them not too long ago.

Scott

I was scared spitless, actually.  If I had been able to overcome the urge to ride, I wouldn't have ridden at all this year before changing them.  I haven't broken 5000 rpm since I put the bike away last winter.  Also, I was a little nervous anytime I pushed it in a corner, because if one of those things had gone TWANG! I'd have been in a world of hurt.

Also, knowing they were more than 2 years old the whole time I had the bike, I've never redlined it.  Rotation speed makes a huge difference in the forces exerted on those belts... remember that every time you double the speed of a rotating system, you quadruple the centripetal forces holding it all together.  So... every 1000 rpm you keep it below the redline is adding quite a bit of padding to the existing margins of safety for the rotating engine parts.

For my bike, from here forward, it's 2 years or 12k miles, whichever comes first.  And for $73 from Ca-Cycleworks, it's pretty cheap insurance (I see no reason to spend more on a different PN at this point).  The previous owner had inspected them at 6k and made sure they were tensioned correctly, said they looked great.  I'd agree with him... even 6000 miles after he checked, visually they were still in excellent condition.  If they hadn't been so bloody old, I might've been comfortable going to 18k.  But... while they looked great, they felt old, dry, and stiff.  I think the age is what gets 'em.

Another piece of info... mine are fully enclosed, and it's pretty clean back there.  If you're running open covers or vented covers, especially if there's a bunch of crap getting thrown up in there, that will definitely shorten the life of 'em.  You'll also want to feel the rollers when you check tension, make sure the bearings are still good.  A toasted tensioner or idler will fry a timing belt in short order.  Under enclosed covers, they probably go a good long time, but if they've been run open in anything less than perfect weather, those bearing seals will start to wear out... and then the bearings themselves will follow suit.


Thanks man, yeah, I went for a ride.  I'll get to the valve check when it rains.  Thanks for the offer, too!  I won't have to take you up on it, though... the previous owner had the 2v shim measurement tool, and since that was his last Duc, it came with the bike.  Aaaannddd.... I've needed an excuse to go buy a caliper, anyway.  ;)  You know, any excuse to go buy high-precision geek tools is a good one.

I hope "Hey, that's shiny." qualifies, because it usually involves me hopping off a Snap-On truck a few hundred bucks poorer.

Yes, yes it does.  ;D

Did one of you guys say you have the crank tool and were willing to loan it?

I need to do my belts and I think the tool would be quite handy.

I do, and you're welcome to it.  When do you need it?  I ask because I'm due to check/adjust my valves and was hoping to do it this weekend.  If you want to come by I can swap your belts in about 15 minutes.

Scott

I haven't even bought them yet . . . I was thinking the weekend of the 20th assuming CA-Cycleworks can deliver in that short time.

Okie dokie then.  Gimme a shout when you get them.

Scott

You mean the special gizmo for turning the crankshaft by hand?

Easy:  Put bike on rearstand.  Put in gear (higher is better).  Turn real wheel.

It's a little stiff, which is why a higher gear is better (more movement of the rear wheel for less movement of the crank).  Still gotta be careful of TDC, because as soon as it hits peak compression, any more movement and it'll want to keep turning.

Anyway... I didn't need the crank tool for doing the belts, I just put 'er in gear and rotated the rear wheel by hand to make the motor go 'round.

DO be careful that you have the belts on the correct teeth though, first, because it'd be hard to feel if you're running a piston into a valve.  This isn't difficult (the pulleys should all have marks on them... if not, paint mark their positions at TDC prior to removing belts), it's just something you want to check and re-check to be very sure of before rotating the crank & cams.

Dan, next time you do this remove the plugs.  The engine is easier to turn and won't tend to push away from TDC.

Scott

Is that why it kept rotating of TDC on me the last time?  I was irked!

Yeah, pull the plugs and it's much easier to turn and stays where you put it.  Also, you can see TDC by looking in the plug hole with a flashlight.

Still welcome to the tool, much easier than working with the rear wheel.  Besides, I still have your headset tool to return.

Scott

Good suggestion, Scott, removing the sparkplugs.

I'd have done that, except I'm a little paranoid of spark plugs in aluminum heads, particularly after one blew out of my '86 GTI's head one time on an Arizona highway.  Thankfully I wasn't far from civilization.  Anyway... after that episode, I've tried to minimize how often I remove/install plugs in aluminum heads.

For those less skittish than I about such things, Scott's suggestion is a good one.  [thumbsup]

Having owned dirt bikes, a moped, and several air cooled VWs I'm fine with replacing plugs in aluminum heads.  One thing I won't do is use a torque wrench.  I usually tighten my plugs by hand and have never had a problem.  A few months ago I figured I would try a torque wrench and go to spec.  No way I was getting near spec!  That was feeling way tighter than  I would ever go before I got there and made me hella nervous.  No more torqued plugs for me.

Also, some anti-seize or even regular old grease is the way to go.  A little on the threads and you get a much better feel for when it's actually getting tight instead of cross threading.  Ask me how I know  [roll]

Scott

Was this rhetoric or do you really want us to ask?

No, but if you're really curious I've cross threaded a few spark plugs in VW bugs.  Easy to do with the fan shroud in the way.

Scott

True statement. And worse yet if you have dual carbs.

Cross-threaded plugs in aluminum VW heads...

<*shudder*>

If you'll excuse me, I'm going to escape to my happy place now...

The nice part about aluminum is that it's soft enough that you can re-thread it with the plug if you just get the angle right.

Scott

"I want to race a <insert your favorite car with an aluminum head>!"

Step #1 Heli-coil the spark plug holes http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp (http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp)

Step #2 Go racing!

That's just cheating!

Aluminum is such an awful thing. Cast iron is where it's at, yo.

Heli-coils work.  [thumbsup]

There's also this cool doohickey that's a complete threaded insert.  Unlike a Helicoil which is literally a coil, this thing is a complete steel insert complete with seating surface.

That's what I had installed after one of the plugs in my '86 GTI blew out.  One of these days I'll get around to getting inserts in the other three.  Not sure if that'll happen before or after the FI is yoinked and replaced by Webers.  Too many things to buy, never enough time or money.  *sigh*

Noooooo
            ooooooooooo
                                ooooooooooooooooo
                                                              oooooo
                                                                         oooooooo
                                                                                       oooooooo
                                                                                                     oooooooo
                                                                                                                   oooooooo
                                                                                                                              oooooooo!

Don't carb a GTI.  That's what separates them from spooty Datsun 510's.


Please, I beg you.  [bow_down]  Don't do it.

Not to poop on anyone but isn't that the whole idea behind the GTI: G - Grand (or something), T - Tuned, I - Injection.  ??? I used to have an '87.

I can understand the desire for dual Weber's though, as I installed a pair on a Celica coop I had. Upon install I got so excited I forgot to connect the throttle return spring. The accelerator would not snap back after the block long burnout  [evil] whoops!

I thought this was a motorcycle forum... what's with all the car talk?  [puke]

Just kidding.... I am so bored... I need entertaining... anybody??

Spooty 510's...


Die Hippy

Well, I'm looking at a '70 Chevy 4x4 in Stevenson or this '72 Blazer in the 'Couv: http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/1224210040.html. (http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/1224210040.html.)

The '98 GTI would go down the road.

The '86 GTI would become "the car".

Hence... probably no carbs.  Carbs would only be for a weekend-only toy.  I think they look and sound cool, and I like the idea of tuning with a screwdriver.  My '86's FI needs gutted and redone.  New injectors, new pump housing (and possibly the pump), may need to find a new fuel distributor and the little brain on in the raintray, too.  It runs like crap right now, and I really, really, really hate complicated systems.  Gimme a stripped engine bay with basic mechanical stuff... but... if it needs to be driven regularly, it will need FI.

I really want to build a 2.1L stoker, and that's bloody difficult to do with the KE-Jetronic.  I'd have to gut it and do standalone engine management.  I hate, hate, hate putting computers in cars.  I'd prefer to just put a set of carbs on at that point, because the idea of tuning a car with a laptop makes me puke.  Plus: the carb setup runs around $1500.  ITBs are around the same price, PLUS a crapload of money for standalone engine management.  I hear that MegaSquirt EFI is a lot cheaper, but I have neither the time nor the inclination to finish soldering my own computer then mapping it with a PC or laptop, plus sourcing all the miscellanious FI hardware.

So anyway... I'm torn.  I don't like electrical garbage and sensors, but the Weber sidedrafts really aren't any good for a car that needs to be used in a practical manner.  It will remain a 1.8L with KE-Jet for the time being, until I determine what it's mission in life is.  The changeover wouldn't happen anytime soon, so you can rest easy, Mike.  ;)  You'll have other opportunities to convince me otherwise.

Maybe I just need to leave it a 1.8 8v and restore it to "OEM+" (anti-roll bars, strut tower braces, suspension, brakes, etc).  I wasn't planning to carve up the exterior anyway (keeping the classic small bumpers).  I did replace the front seats with a set of factory power Recaros, though, after the driver's side seat frame broke.

Dan, if you buy a bowtie, Mike and I are going to take turns holding you down and kicking you in the crotch. Just FYI.

Ha!  You can try.  Wait... why would Mike have a problem with that?  I'd be keeping my Mk2 GTI.

Mom & Dad had a fulll size Dodge van with a 318 for years.  Never really fond of it.  I've driven a few Fords and hated all of them.  Haven't driven a full-size Dodge 4x4, so no idea how one of those is.  I've just inherited the Chevy gene.  My dad has been a GM guy, and his dad before him was a GM guy.  I like european cars & motorcycles, and GM trucks.  ;D

You drive Mopar, right Bendy?  Maybe I'll throw "Dodge diesel" or "Dodge Cummins" into Craigslist.  I'm specifically looking for a snow and mountain country 4x4 for life out here in the Gorge.

Oh, that reminds me... saw a beasty Dodge 4x4 at the gun show this weekend.  Lifted (6" or more), at least 35" tires, gnarly brush guard/winch/bumper.  It was a great looking EOTW (End of the World) rig.  [thumbsup]

I love Dodge Trucks.  I have a Dakota with a V6.  It's a 318 with 2 cylinders missing.  Vintage Power Wagon it's what got me hooked.  I got into the Land Rovers, because at the time I got my first one, they were the same price as a Chevy Blazer 4-door.  Let's see, Discovery or Jr Soccer Mom?  We have the VW Touareg now, but we don't abuse it like we did with the Discovery's.  We do go on the beach and in the snow.

Whatever...

As long as you don't carb a GTI, I'm happy.

Plunk in Ramcharger or Trailduster for the Mopar Blazer-equivalent. It's hard to beat a B-model Cummins. '94 to '98.5 have the best engine, a mechanical 12-valve, the purest computer-free/EMP-immune End of the World rig you could ever want. Torque demon. Mine gets a typical ~21mpg. They're cold blooded, though, so it helps to plug in the block heater and install a grill front in the winter, among typical anti-gel precautions for the fuel. And not the best for actual off-roading--my regular cab 4x4 weighs 6500 with me and a half tank of diesel, but road snow is laughable with my mud terrains when I'm locked in. There's a lot to say about an engine whose rebuild interval, not lifespan, is 350,000 miles. 12-valves come with the Bosch inline P7100 fuel pump, which is the Holley 4bbl of the light diesel world. Turning more power out of one is all parts, whereas the newer models allow for chipping and other computer goodies at the expense of a less desirable fuel system.

As much as I hate to admit it, there is no disputing that there's also a lot to say about a bowtie with a 350. All the parts in the world you could ever want, and lifting a Blazer is a fraction of the cost of lifting anything else.

you may know this already dan

but

that '68-'72 model year was prone to severe rust under the A piller at the floor

It is very hard to find one that is in any kind of shape worth buying anymore

but keep at it

I prefer Chevy over Fords based purely on the divorced/married T-cases

I know nothing about Dodge rigs except at one point they began using a stouter version of the NP203 T-case than everyone else  (although i don't know what was better more splines on the output or wsomethng maybe)

and that the grill on a dodge has been stupid since forever

Ah-ha, some interesting discussion.  This weedhopper is learning much.  :)

Mike, I was looking at Discoverys (pre-Ford), since a Defender (*drool*) is way outta my price range, and the mid-to-late 90's Discovery can be had on the cheap.  However, the British luxury car interior in the more civilized Land Rovers is hard to wrap my head around.  I also have no idea what I'd be getting into mechanically, but it looks and sounds complicated.

Kyle, great info on the Dodge trucks.  I had no idea what I was lookin' at as far as years, mileage, and whatnot.  One of the reasons I default to GM is because I know what I'm looking at when dealing with a SB 350 and GM drivetrain (and yeah, parts are everywhere).  I'd probably be comfortable with a Dodge truck if I knew more about what I was looking at.  I suppose I could look for a gas rig with a 318 or 360, but that kinda defeats the longevity.  I'm really diggin that 350k mile rebuild interval on the 12v Cummins.  [thumbsup]

Mudder, I knew those years were really prone to rust, and to be REALLY careful about looking them over.  I knew the floorboards were very prone to rust, but did not realize they had a specific issue under the A-pillar.  (Oh yeah, and I like the "face" of a Chevy better, too)  ;)

The guy with that black '72 K5 has dropped his price again to $8k.  Might be time to go take a look.  Seems sharp around the outside, and he's poured a crapload of money into the drivetrain and miscellaneous parts.  If it's still sitting around next weekend, I may give him a call and go look at it.  I don't have 8 grand in cash right now, so I'd have to figure out where the money is coming from.  Anyway, I'll also do some looking at the Mopar options and see what I find.

I don't care how true that is, Jeep boy, shut your mouth!

 ;D

I don't hate everything about a dodge

I always liked the body

right up to that stamped tin grill... [puke]



My fantasy 4x4 back in the day was a 1-ton short box

Dodge bodied with a chevy front clip (all mid 70's stuff)

Chevy motored except with the distributor in the front like a ford...because really in the back like that...stupid
(how to accomplish that, I have no idea)

big blocked as well because Chevy small block exhaust configuration on the heads was dumb also

pair of Dana 60's, high pinioned in the front

with a 6" superlift softride and 36" swampers

and as much as I dig the married T-case idea, the dewd who made that stupid shaft coupler for the SM465 and NP205 should be beaten with a spoon

The Disco is powered by a 4L V8,  Remember the Buick aluminium V8 for yesteryear?  That's it.

The 215 AVO?

automated vehicular oiler

you fired it up and it oiled all the surfaces of your vehicle from the frame to the ground

Yeah, why do you think the Brit's wanted it?  Power, light weight?  They needed another engine in their line that would leak oil.