Ducati Monster Forum

My past weekend experience of riding in light to very heavy rain made me *really* evaluate my rain riding ability. 
Obviously, less lean angle & less speed are important in the wet, as well as smooth application or throttle and brake.  Also keep in mind that tires & pavement will be cooler when wet.

General comments:
- ANY painted pavement is very slick
- Manhole covers or any other metal or non-pavement items embedded in the pavement will be slicker than the surrounding pavement
- Allow plenty of braking distance and maneuvering room between you and other vehicles
- Your pegs may be slippery
- Your brake & clutch controls may be slippery
- Rain + wind (from riding at XX speed) causes significant chilling if you don't have either waterproof or windproof gear


Road Surfaces: 

New pavement (very very smooth surface, no gouges or aberrations in the surface)
A)  Overly saturated (water running across or standing):  Slick, as well as hydroplane danger, though less if you have VERY good tires for rain, it is still a danger.
- Least lean angle possible for most tread on pavement helps prevent hydroplaning
B)  Once completely/thoroughly wet:  VERY slick, feels very slick, poor feedback at times, it if looks glassy think snow/ice slick.
- Smooth, smooth, smooth, be prepared for slips at initial tip-in for curve and throttle up exiting turns
C)  Lightly wet/almost dry:  fine unless it was an area where the light mist was carrying oil/grease like you might find at a stoplight/sign or in the middle of the travel lane
- Less lean angle than for completely dry conditions helps, but not much different from completely dry.

Older pavement in good shape (looks to have a slightly rough surface, but still minimal cracking and other surface aberrations)
A)  Overly saturated (water running across or standing):  Still hydroplane danger, BUT rougher surface helps with somewhat reducing risk
- Least lean angle possible for most tread on pavement helps prevent hydroplaning, don't assume the rougher surface will help
B)  Once completely/thoroughly wet:  Not slick feeling, but abrupt movements/throttle/brake changes can easily overpower what traction is available
- Less lean than same corner in dry, smooth on throttle & brakes.
C)  Lightly wet/almost dry:  Warmed up tires notice little difference between dry unless the water has lifted oils and such.
- Less lean angle than for completely dry conditions helps, but not much different from completely dry.

Cracked/damaged pavement:
A)  Overly saturated (water running across or standing):  High risk for unexpected movement from either wheel, cracks that cause skips or slippage may be hidden in moving water, moving water may also carry debris from cracks
- Stay loose, least lean angle helps, try to avoid a line that takes you through water of unknown depth or surfaces
B)  Once completely/thoroughly wet:  Cracks & damaged areas can cause slippage or skips, may pull certain tread patterns worse than when dry.  Be aware of any visible debris as it rolling under the tire + the wet pavement makes recovering for a slide more difficult
- Stay loose, no harm in the bike meandering a bit with the irregularities in the road, in the event of a slight skip, being loose helps also, look where you want to gp
C)  Lightly wet/almost dry:  Surface may appear dry, but there may be water still contained cracks and any debris may still be wet which would somewhat compromise traction.
- Avoid line with visible debris and it is slicker than usual

Pavement with any type or dirt, mud, debris being carried by the water or tracked by vehicles onto the road surfaces (think construction traffic)
A, B, C:  Treat it with much caution this scenario is usually very very slick
- Slow before entering dirty area, if possible stay off brakes, especially front once in the mud/dirt/etc, throttle could cause slides too.
- Remember for next few turns you may have debris on tires that needs to be gently scrubbed off

Dips/low spots in a turn
A, B, C:  Can cause sudden/unexpected loss of traction from either wheel, more so than in the dry
- Best way is spotting these & slowing or choosing a line with the least of the dip, not always possible
- Weight front if you can to help front keep in good contact with the road as a rear slide is easier to recover IMO
- Be prepared to run a bit wide

Folks, please add anything I've missed, correct anything that's a bad habit etc.

JM

All awesome points!  [thumbsup]

Also be aware after 1st rain in awhile = even slicker than normal due to oils not being washed off pavement yet.

I slow down quite a bit in the rain.

Great points all.

I'd add:
- Your visibility to drivers is worse in the rain, so keep that in mind.
- Wear something warm and dry - being uncomfortable and cold could distract you from your riding.
- Avoid puddles - you may not realize how deep they are or if there is something slippery (leaves, oil) underneath.
- If it's cold and wet, be on the lookout for ice in typical places (e.g. bridges).
- Remember that rain and wind may contribute to tree branches, rocks, etc. falling onto the road.


Yep, drizzle is worse than rain.

Big +1 on the warm and dry.  It was around 50F this weekend, but since I didn't have my rain gear with me, the wind coming through my wet perforated leather coat had be shivering in short order.  It's very distracting.

JM

Braking may be reduced due to wet rotors.

it's very very easy to get hypothermia being wet and cold. even on warmer days you can get wet and the speed will cause you to rapidly lose bodyheat.

When it starts raining your traction is greatly reduced. When it's been raining for while, your traction is only reduced a bit (I thought I'd read you have 80% of the traction you normally have).

Smooth is the rule. Smooth on the throttle, off the throttle, on the brakes, off the brakes, body movements, etc.

When you have the right gear, riding in the rain can be fun (as long as it's not in traffic!).

When it is raining I smoothly make the decision to drive my car.  Luckely in Los Angeles I don't have to deal with rain much.  Back in my Seattle days was a different story. 

I just did my first track school/track day yesterday and it starting raining half way through.   There were only two of us that stayed for the school....everyone else bolted when it got wet and there were only two other riders on the track for the last two sessions.  I learned more in those two sessions about control, smoothness,  and body position than I have in a year of riding including a winter spent commuting in the rain.  Since everyone left, I had several instructors working with me on and off the track. By the end, I found that I was still able to carry quite a bit of speed even though the track was saturated.   I honestly was not trying to ride fast when  it got wet.  Instead, I was totally focused on hanging off and keeping the bike as upright as possible....easing on the brake, doing my shifting, braking, and setting up for the corner; easing off (trail braking) up to the apex; and then gradually rolling on the throttle and easing back into a tuck.  Being smooth (IE: doing the above) helped me carry a lot more speed that I thought I otherwise could have. 

You do learn a lot from riding in the rain,for me it's the braking and turning that you can learn a lot of riding on wet surface.And also the judgement that you make when its wet.I just don't like the cleaning part of it after riding.

What kind of issues/solutions do you guys have with visibility in rain.  I have had no end of limited visibility issues with my helmet in rain conditions. 

Man,i wipe the face shield a lot, try this ,if you are traveling with some speed and it's pouring...try moving your head from one side to the other side to blow away some rain drops in the shield,it kinda push the water aside.

My Tourmaster gloves have a little wiper blade thingy that is a great help in the rain.  I often crack the visor up 1 click to vent better if fogging is a problem ~

JM

+1  I try to apply the brakes a touch every hundred yards or so just to keep the rotors as warm/dry as I can.  Nothing worse than finding yourself in an emergency braking situation with wet rotors.  You grab hard, and at first nothing bites.  Then you wear off the slack water, and they bite hard potentially causing a lockup in already tenuous weather. 

We had a dry spring here, but the last few months I've been leary of day-after-rain rides.  Roads that recieve little sunlight or wind have a tendency to stay damp longer and water that seeps up from cracks in the pavement can sneak up on you realllllly fast in a 70mph corner.  I've even noticed that where the water seeps up from cracks, occasionally a small layer of algae can form.  Anyone ever get their vehicle caught while lowering a boat down a ramp?

I go very carefully in the wet, I’m sure I’m an encumbrance to other road users (like the impatient car drive behind me) but I don’t care, the physics and dynamics are completely different on a single-track vehicle in the wet.  I go into a “let’s get home safe” mode.  All the fun of ridding disappears and the only positive thing is having to face up to the challenge of wet ridding.

Diesel spills scare me most, you cant always see them and its usually on roundabouts that you get them, I try to go round them with the bike perpendicular, even though its believed that this is impossible?  There’s loads more I can think of -like leaves are bad enough but absolutely deadly in the wet, you can get rear wheel spin on white lines in the wet that you never would in the dry, and of course, the most important advantage a bikes got -which is its acceleration and chuck ability- is lost when riding in the rain.