Can someone give me some step by step instructions to get rid of the thing. Do I have to worry about f-in anything up? It's a 2007 S2R 1000. Thanks in advance!!!!!
Maybe this will help.
http://www.ducatisuite.org/emissions.html (http://www.ducatisuite.org/emissions.html)
Good link, thank you. It looks like a much more cereal job than I can handle! Also, looks like that is for a different set-up than I have. It's an older monster he's referring to.
Has anyone used this;
http://www.tpoparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=32&osCsid=511635b2ffb7cbba3ac3f6fae015b2bf
pretty sure thats an overkill.
i checked out how the guys at my local shop did it, and they just remove the whole package and plug the holes left over from where the nipples were coming out of the intake with M5's...
me? i just removed all the crap that hooked up to the emissions canister and connected the one hose that runs out of the horizontal intake to the vertical intake. I think i also re-routed my gas overflow or vapor hose...can't remember which though.
it took all of 10 mins, isn't very hard, goes roughly like this: undo mounting bracket for emissions canister, unhook all hoses going to it, trace all hoses, if the hose uses a T or Y intersection, get rid of the hose going to the emissions canister, connect point A directly to point B. throw emissions can in garbage. then [moto] like the [evil].
emissions canister...what a POS.
here you go [thumbsup]
1 - follow hose from emissions cannister to gas tank. disconnect this hose from the emissions cannister and run it down the rear of the engine parallel to the other hose you see running back there from the tank.
2 - follow the other hose from the cannister to a "t-fitting" that splices it into two hoses. follow each of these hoses to a fitting in your intake manifolds. loosen the clamps that secure the hoses to these bleeder fittings and remove the hoses. then unscrew the bleeder fittings from the manifolds.
3 - plug the holes in the intake manifolds the those bleeder fittings left with short M5 bolts. use high-temp locktite to secure them. just "snug" tight. don't over torque 'em.
4 - unbold the cannister bracket and toss that useless P.O.S. in the garbage....
Ok, I'm building some confidence here..... Where can i find a M5 bolt? Standard at Home Depot?
yep. the short m5's. if they don't have them, your local hardware store will.
"loosen the clamps that secure the hoses to these bleeder fittings and remove the hoses. then unscrew the bleeder fittings from the manifolds."
I WAS ABLE TO GET THE CLAMPS LOOSE, BUT HOW DO I REMOVE THE THE HOSES FROM THE MANIFOLD. DO THEY JUST PULL OFF?????
I'M TRYING TO UNSCREW THEM, BUT IT'S REALLY TOUGH TO REACH IN THERE.....
the hoses just pull off. you may need to wiggle them a bit at first.
the nipples are a bit of a pain, but the will unscrew.
dont forget yer gonna need to put those m5 bolts back where the nipples came from. consider investing in a long needle nose plier or vice grip [thumbsup]
i did the quick fix and cut the hose just outside the manifold and capped the ends. i think this would have worked although it looked pretty crappy, like two extra antenas! i tried again to unscrew from the manifold and it came off much easier with out the extra tubing on there. go figure. put in the m5 bolts and im emissions free. Took me about an hour. beer and self high five for me! thanks guys! [thumbsup]
Here's what I got rid of
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2085/2502633002_f9e21b99d6_b.jpg)
Here are the 2 manifolds i plugged with the M5 bolt. I didn't need any zipties. I just screwed in the bolt with the original washer... Will this work ok????
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2220/2502630804_71f7a69c9e.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2046/2502625098_6a753215b5.jpg)
I did cut about 8 inches of the gas hose and ran it parallel to the other overflow hose. Couldn't tuck it in the same spot, so it hangs out behind the SSS. I suppose it will work....
AND THE FINISHED PRODUCT! Not as hard as thought it would be. Bike is much faster too! Mailing leftovers to Cali for proper burial....
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2290/2519835792_8064b09cd6.jpg)
Guess I shoulda taken the before pics for the full effect....
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2144/2519835530_705a8f6359.jpg)
Congrats man. I need to get off my ass and do the same thing to my 800.
Quote from: JoDuc on May 18, 2008, 10:04:55 AM
Here are the 2 manifolds i plugged with the M5 bolt. I didn't need any zipties. I just screwed in the bolt with the original washer... Will this work ok????
if you didn't already, i would recommend sealing the bolts in place with some high temp silicone (RV silicone works great)
otherwise you risk air getting around the bolt, or the bolt working itself free, either of which could lead to a lean running condition
[thumbsup]
Great job.
So a silly question from a 2007 S4R T owner.....mmmm... Aussie model. When I have my Termignoni Full system installed in the next couple of weeks, should I have the emissions stuff removed? That is, if I have it? mmmm..
Bret
why wait? do it urself...(if its legal down unda)
For future reference, you can leave the nipples in place. Just put vacuum caps on them. This way, when you want to sync your throttle bodies, you pull the caps off and hook up your manometer...
Quote from: herm on May 18, 2008, 12:13:24 PM
if you didn't already, i would recommend sealing the bolts in place with some high temp silicone (RV silicone works great)
otherwise you risk air getting around the bolt, or the bolt working itself free, either of which could lead to a lean running condition
[thumbsup]
I bought some silicone sealant. Should I loosen the bolts drop some in and tighten back up, or just add some of the goo around the outside of it. Sorry that i have no freakin clue!!!! [bang]
Do what I posted. Put the nipples back on and get some vacuum caps from the auto parts store...
One note about the vacuum caps.
Use the smallest ones you can force onto the nipple. If you have a "hiccup" or backfire they'll shoot right off. I keep spares in my jacket pocket, just in case. Learned that one the hard way i did. [laugh]
Yup, the ones I have a nice and snug. Never popped off and just crested 4k miles..
The bracket that holds the charcoal canister is mounted behind the footpeg bracket. Do you have to shim the bracket out once you remover the canister and bracket? No one has ever mentioned this so I'm curious.
Thanks,
Scott
On the DSS, I think you will have to...
Quote from: herm on May 18, 2008, 12:13:24 PM
if you didn't already, i would recommend sealing the bolts in place with some high temp silicone (RV silicone works great)
otherwise you risk air getting around the bolt, or the bolt working itself free, either of which could lead to a lean running condition
[thumbsup]
Medium locktite works well too!
Quote from: CDawg on May 19, 2008, 10:17:06 AM
Medium locktite works well too!
This is what I actually bought yesterday - got the RED one. I'll put it on tonight. It seems that it will seal it and I'll still have a clean look.... [beer]
Quote from: scott_araujo on May 19, 2008, 12:44:11 AM
The bracket that holds the charcoal canister is mounted behind the footpeg bracket. Do you have to shim the bracket out once you remover the canister and bracket? No one has ever mentioned this so I'm curious.
Thanks,
Scott
The beauty of it all is that on the DSS bikes, you can pull all those stupid rearset spacers out and actually have a symmetrical bike! There's one behind each rearset mount, and you'll have to flip the lower engine mount ones to the outside to get the bolt back in. Otherwise it will bottom out.
Quote from: JoDuc on May 18, 2008, 10:01:12 AM
Here's what I got rid of
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2085/2502633002_f9e21b99d6_b.jpg)
what does that thing do? do i need it on my s2r?
any before and after pics?
the ron [evil]
Most peeps get rid of it. First thing i asked my salesman is 'what the hell is that?' The first page of this thread has the after pics. If you have a S2R just look at it and you'll see the before pics. Go ahead and do it - You Can Do It! [thumbsup]
I just completed this mod (and capped the nipples), but as I looked at the factory configuration it seems to me that the original "T" fitting could be serving as an air balancer between the two intakes. If so, we should probably be connecting the two nipples directly to each other with some of the reclaimed hose, in order to maintain this balance. Does this make sense?
Quote from: NAKID on May 18, 2008, 06:30:22 PM
Do what I posted. Put the nipples back on and get some vacuum caps from the auto parts store...
Quote from: dlowenst on June 02, 2008, 10:42:43 AM
the original "T" fitting could be serving as an air balancer between the two intakes. If so, we should probably be connecting the two nipples directly to each other with some of the reclaimed hose, in order to maintain this balance. Does this make sense?
Does it make sense? Yes, but if you look at the specs/parts diagrams for the euro versions, they are do not have a tubing to "balance intake air pressure." That's why I took everything off (nipples and all).
OK, that's certainly a good basis for thinking that they don't need to be connected. In the Euro version, are the nipples installed but plugged? If no, what does the configuration look like?
Quote from: CDawg on June 02, 2008, 11:07:49 AM
Does it make sense? Yes, but if you look at the specs/parts diagrams for the euro versions, they are do not have a tubing to "balance intake air pressure." That's why I took everything off (nipples and all).
Quote from: dlowenst on June 02, 2008, 04:48:26 PM
OK, that's certainly a good basis for thinking that they don't need to be connected. In the Euro version, are the nipples installed but plugged? If no, what does the configuration look like?
The part number for the intake manifold is the same, but Drawing 42 (canister) does not exist in the EU version. Remove everything and plug with M5(?) screw is my recommendation. Use make sure you use some medium loctite to seal it properly and it will run fine.
here is a write up in the FAQ now:
http://ducatimonsterworldwide.org/index.php?topic=3446.0
mitt
Quote from: herm on May 18, 2008, 12:13:24 PM
if you didn't already, i would recommend sealing the bolts in place with some high temp silicone (RV silicone works great)
otherwise you risk air getting around the bolt, or the bolt working itself free, either of which could lead to a lean running condition
[thumbsup]
Or a new crush washer.
Ah, does anybody have any tips for removing the hoses from the bleeder nozzles? Mine are not coming off...
On the manifolds?
If there's a clamp, remove it entierly or slide it up the hose away from the end. Sometimes the hoses 'glue' themselves in place just by being there so long. Grab the hose with pliers and and twist to free it, it should start rotating relative to the bleeder. Once that's moving use the pliers and just pull it off. It may come away suddenly once it gets past the ridge on the nipple.
Hope this helps,
Scott
I ended up just cutting the hoses before the nozzle and tearing off what i couldnt cut off. My hoses seemed to be glued to the nozzles
I also found a 10M Deep Socket very useful to remove the nozzles. (for the people that dont have a full mechanics kit AutoZone will have them). A standard socket is not big enough to fit over the nozzle.
Another tip, RTV sealant is super messy, i ended up putting some on the end of one of those cheap water color paint brushes and beading it around the screw. But, I'm also second guessing my use of gasket sealant, as I am not 100% sure of its compatability with gasoline. i'll let you guys know if I start backfiring like crazy.