One of these day (whenever my exhaust is finally delivered) I'm going to be installing a Zard full exhaust on my 2007 S2R1000. Right now I have the stock exhaust on there.
How hard is the install to do? I haven't been able to find a tutorial on changing the exhaust. Can I reuse the exhaust gaskets? Anything else I should be aware of?
I have already had the ECU re-flashed to handle the lack of a Lambda sensor.
Thanks for the help.
I looked into the Zard system when I was shopping for an exhaust...If I remember correctly, you don't actually replace the head pipe where it bolts to the header, so you wouldn't have to replace the seals. If you do have to replace the head pipe where it bolts to the header, you need new gaskets. As far as install time, budget a couple of hours and take your time, no need to rush.
Quote from: rockaduc on May 19, 2009, 04:35:26 PM
I looked into the Zard system when I was shopping for an exhaust...If I remember correctly, you don't actually replace the head pipe where it bolts to the header, so you wouldn't have to replace the seals. If you do have to replace the head pipe where it bolts to the header, you need new gaskets. As far as install time, budget a couple of hours and take your time, no need to rush.
Thanks for the info. I couldn't find much on the install information.
Regardless, this is all unnecessary now. I just talked to the shop that is doing work on my bike. It is going to be another week or week and a half...but the upside is that motowheels got my exhaust in today, so I'm having them ship it right to the shop and letting them take care of everything in one go.
The header for the horizontal cylinder is part of the kit, you use the existing header for the vertical cylinder. I didn't bother replacing the gasket on the horizontal head port, had no problems with leaks. I did use high-temp copper sealant for all of the slip-fit joints, to prevent leaks. I don't know if this was really necessary. Try to get someone to help you, it goes much easier if you have 3 hands. The hardest part was fitting the left can into the slip-fit joint which is down near your right footpeg, its just awkward and hard to get the pipes to fit together squarely.
If you plan to run without baffles, be careful that you don't drop the hardware into the can when you take out the retaining bolt. Its easier if you do this before you install the system.
Be prepared to experiment with all of the miscellaneous spacers and washers to get the left-side supporting bracket in a location that seems to fit right. The installation instructions are very lame.
When you are ready to tighten the hardware that supports the cans, take your time. Leave the bolts that go into the cans themselves loose, snug up the other hardware on the bracket first (not tight, just take out most of the "slack"), then go back and snug-up the bolts going into the cans. Work your way back and forth as if you were installing a cylinder head until everything is tight.
This was a 3 beer job for me. When you are all done, you'll probably notice that the right can seems to stick out a wee bit further than the left can. If you find a way to fix this, let me know.
Ivan,
Thanks so much for the detailed reply. I'll talk to the shop and see what they can figure out. I'll let you know how the pipes look left to right.