'07 695 19.6k miles
Bike presented with clutch lever solid as a rock, and clutch not working.
Opening bleed screw on the slave and squeezing lever, fluid comes out and lever goes full travel.
Hmmm, master OK then.
Removed slave, all seems OK with it, but pushrod seems a little short.....
Pull clutch cover, and the whole clutch stack is out too far.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2427/3573537903_560268eba4_o.jpg)
Remove pressure plate, and the hub not is backed off a *lot*.
So, nut backing off allows the hub and stack to move outward, and the slave cylinder runs out of stroke, piston bottomed out, so lever solid.
Reassemble clutch (BTW, Adler 'slippers' are a PITA).
All is well.
As it turned out, the clutch issue was providence....
Crankshaft oil seal:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3653/3573538143_7f885e6a9a_o.jpg)
No, they're not supposed to look like that.
It had been running like that for a while, as you can see where the threads on the crank had cut into the pushed-out part of the seal.
Why it didn't kill the rod bearings, I don't know.
Someone owes you a gazillion dollars for catching that problem with the seal. Do they realize how much $ you saved them?
'06 M620 9.3k miles, '05 S2R800 33.1k miles
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3379/3574362732_443002e689_o.jpg)
Vertical cambelt tensioner roller *fried*.
The pic is of the 620, but the S2R looked just as bad.
As you might imagine, the belt didn't look very good either.
I wouldn't consider it totally out of the ordinary on the S2R, considering the mileage.
Definitely out of the ordinary for the 620 though.
Both of the bikes came in for other service work, with no symptoms of the roller going bad.
Both riders were attentive to what was generally going on with their bikes.
Moral of the story... pull your belt covers and check out the rollers every so often.
Thanks for posting Nick.
I think I'm gonna check my rollers and belts with every oil change.
'03 M620 11k miles
Bike presented barely running, and unridable due to almost no power.
Bike had been sitting for a while.
The owner had started riding it, but running quality rapidly deteriorated.
Owner thought maybe it was bad gas, put some fresh gas in, but no improvement.
Bike would start, idle OK for 10 seconds or so, then idle would get ratty and engine wouldn't get over 4k rpm, regardless of throttle.
It would just go Duhduh..duhduh..duhduh..duhduh..duhduh.
Seemed like a fuel issue. :P
Popped the cap... fuel smelled a little funky, but not terrible.
Drained the tank, refilled with fresh fuel.
No improvement.
Pulled the plugs, they looked OK.
Opened the airbox, no pack of rodents nesting inside.
Started the engine, fuel seemed to be flowing out the injector reasonably well, but seems to ebb and flow with the duhduh..duhduh..duhduh..duhduh.
Hmmm. ???
Turned the key on, listened... fuel pump sound was a bit abnormal.
Popped the cap, turned the key on, fuel in the tank seemed to 'boil' a bit when the pump ran.
Looked at the hose where it attached to the filter.
Ugh.
Pulled the cap assembly, and unhooked the pump so I could see the whole hose.
Double Ugh.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3402/3573630259_2d46cc340e_o.jpg)
For some reason, the fuel just obliterated the hose while it was sitting.
Looks fine under where the clamp was, but the rest of it looked like a barbecued tree branch.
Replaced the hoses, and filter for good measure.
Bike ran like a top.
Dude I think this thread deserves a sticky. I'm fooking entertained. [popcorn]
Quote from: Spidey on May 28, 2009, 01:54:10 PM
Someone owes you a gazillion dollars for catching that problem with the seal. Do they realize how much $ you saved them?
Owner was not so mechanically inclined, but did seem to understand.
Hope it doesn't throw a rod.
No knocking when I started it up afterwards, so maybe he completely dodged the bullet.
Quote from: pompetta on May 28, 2009, 02:19:15 PM
Thanks for posting Nick.
I think I'm gonna check my rollers and belts with every oil change.
That's a good plan.
Really disturbing that the 'roller' can be that bad without a ear-splitting squeal when it's running.
Quote from: pompetta on May 28, 2009, 02:19:15 PM
Thanks for posting Nick.
I think I'm gonna check my rollers and belts with every oil change.
Yeah, WOW!! + 1 to checking the rollers at every oil change.
Hey Nick, what do you think caused the fuel line to deteriorate like that? Ethanol fuel? Someone trying some jet fuel, or acetone, or paint thinner or something equally stupid in there? Bad fuel line from the beginning?
Quote from: corndog67 on May 28, 2009, 05:11:11 PM
Hey Nick, what do you think caused the fuel line to deteriorate like that? Ethanol fuel? Someone trying some jet fuel, or acetone, or paint thinner or something equally stupid in there? Bad fuel line from the beginning?
NOS :P
Quote from: MrIncredible on May 29, 2009, 06:05:42 PM
NOS :P
you mean it was the large amounts of high fractose corn syrup that did that?
Quote from: corndog67 on May 28, 2009, 05:11:11 PM
Hey Nick, what do you think caused the fuel line to deteriorate like that? Ethanol fuel? Someone trying some jet fuel, or acetone, or paint thinner or something equally stupid in there? Bad fuel line from the beginning?
Or Stabil??? Or some other additive?
FWIW, the manufacturers of my bike strongly advise against putting ANY additive in the fuel. But this could be from some variable of simply sitting as well I suppose. Pretty scary, regardless.
My bike is a '99 and several months ago, I came home to a strong smell of gasoline in the garage. (Luckily the pilot light on my water heater hadn't exploded my garage, yet) Turns out my fuel line had cracked right at the fuel tank fitting and leaked about 2 gallons of gasoline. The weird thing is that other than this, the fuel line looked fine. No cracking, no blistering, etc.
Moral of the story: $5 worth of replaced hoses could save a burnt up bike or (in my case) burnt down house.
'05 M620, picked up due to a non-start condition.
Non-start wasn't a big shock, bike hadn't run for several months, and it still had the original battery.
Dropped in a known good battery.
No cranking, just a click.
Hmmm.
Jumped the solenoid, no cranking.
Battery cables getting a bit warm, not bad though.
Put it up on a rearstand, pulled the sparkplugs.
Click it into top gear, engine will turn forward.
Will not turn backward.
Starter won't turn.
Pull left sidecover.
The mesh of the starter gear with the idler gear doesn't look right.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4602014577_9a362c6200_o.jpg)
Try to turn the idler gear by hand.
No dice.
Gently pry using a hole in the gear and a hole in the case.
Poink, a piece of spring falls out.
Oh.
Shift pawl spring broke, and a piece *somehow* got flung up into the starter gears.
"J" shaped piece was the one jamming the works, you can see one end is flattened.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4602628896_1d3e22b6c6_o.jpg)
OW, MY TEETH!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3397/4602628778_30440fdb74_o.jpg)
Great thread.
Great thread Speeddog...fascinating and unsettling at the same time. Like watching some Animal Planet "When Good Pets Go Bad" show
keep this stuff coming. The more problems we see, the more potential solutions.
Good conclusion on starter not turning if the wheel will turn forward but not back
[coffee] Sticking around for more of this great thread.
this thread is amazing. this should be stickied and added to by all duc mechanics!
[bow_down]
Fun! Keep 'em coming. You could do the Ducaholic game too, ID'ing parts and problems and such. I love those threads he posts
[popcorn]
Those Southern California folks are lucky to have you.
[popcorn]
Thanks for these. The more info you have on problems the more tools you have in your box when you run into one. Thanks for sharing your experience!
good to see what bad rollers are supposed to look like checked mine and they are ok, but damn those belt covers are a pain to get off with an oil cooler line over them, who the heck designed them to be so tough to take off?
I think they need to give you your own TV show ;D
(http://www.mindjacket.com/img/large_designs/lupus1.jpg)
Great thread, but your public (okay, me) demands more! [thumbsup]
More! [popcorn]
Great thread. This should be a sticky [bow_down]
best thread ive read yet!!! [thumbsup]
Fuel hoses, etc, deteriorate because vehicle manufacturers don't want to spend the money on Viton and use rubber products, which eventually will rot. I found this out while researching getting o-rings for our Monster fuel tanks.
how much are Viton ones? worth replacing whats in there?
Any new shop stories?
Quote from: djrashonal on May 19, 2010, 09:59:49 PM
how much are Viton ones? worth replacing whats in there?
Any new shop stories?
No new shop stories at this time.
Fuel lines from the factory are good stuff, but it seems that allowing them to marinate in spoiling ethanol-laced fuel will kill 'em.
Quote from: Speeddog on May 28, 2009, 01:51:31 PM
Bike presented with clutch lever solid as a rock, and clutch not working.
Opening bleed screw on the slave and squeezing lever, fluid comes out and lever goes full travel.
<snip>
So, nut backing off allows the hub and stack to move outward, and the slave cylinder runs out of stroke, piston bottomed out, so lever solid.
This reminds me of my situation a couple of years ago....
Every now and again, I'd pull in my clutch lever to have no resistance on the lever. The next pull, it works fine. Figured air in the line, so I bled it...
Not much later, and it starts it again. Pull the lever in, no resistance, pull it again, and it works fine. I noticed when riding really hard in the mountains, it would do it more often. Instead of once every 15-20 miles, now, it would do it several times in a mile when I rode the bike harder. Bled it again, removed the clutch slave and checked it and cleaned it, and it still did it.
Spoke with a local tech, and he swore it was the master cylinder if it was not the slave. I bought a new clutch master cylinder and swapped it out. Still did it. It was never predictable and was inconsistent, so I still couldn't figure it out.
A little later, the slave started leaking. Removing and inspecting it again, I noticed that the bore was worn when I removed the piston...
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d32/Kramer_Krazy/worn_slave_1.jpg)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d32/Kramer_Krazy/worn_slave_2.jpg)
(Note - the slave is a triple seal Evoluzione, so the wear pattern didn't strike me as odd)
I replaced the clutch slave, and......it still happened.
This intermittent clutch issue went on for about 3000 miles until it finally failed....
I was almost 200 miles from the house when I went to pull the clutch in, the lever went straight to the bar, and then I heard a really bad racket coming from the right side of the engine. On top of this, I couldn't change gears. I killed the engine and coasted to a stop, and then pushed the bike to a nearby McDonald's parking lot. This is when I saw this...
(http://www.desmodemon.com/misc_pix/hub_4.jpg)
I grabbed some tools and pulled the clutch cover off to discover that the clutch hub nut had been backing off this entire time...
(http://www.desmodemon.com/misc_pix/hub_3.jpg)
(http://www.desmodemon.com/misc_pix/hub_1.jpg)
Apparently, the nut would back off a little and the first pull of the clutch lever would push the clutch rod to fill the gap, and then the second pull of the lever, it would work normally. A little later, the nut would back off a little more, and the same thing would happen with the lever pull pushing the rod until it was applying pressure again.
I borrowed my wife's bike and left her with the ST2. I rode to a local auto parts store where I bought a breaker bar and a socket. I reassembled the clutch and rode the 200 miles back home where I took everything back apart, cleaned everything, and put locktite on the hub nut. 20k miles later and it's still working fine (the clutch has 52k miles on it). I never suspected the hub nut backing off because the clutch had not been touched since it left the factory. I guess it just took 30k miles to pound the nut loose.
'06 S2R800, 22k miles
Brought in for service, owner mentioned odd noise/clunk from driveline.
Noticed that there was something trapped in the safetywire on the axle clip.
Closer inspection determined it was a piece of the nut.
That's odd.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4662398430_aa70a59681.jpg)
Also, there was swarf appearing at the intersection of the cone and the wheel.
Visible in the above pic, here's a closer pic and I've circled some of it.
This isn't looking good.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4661776015_2f232286dd.jpg)
Here's the nut, piece missing, also note the ragged lower edge of the cone:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4661776459_7cf6432c7a.jpg)
Other side of the cone.
Ow.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4661776133_9c23368f8e.jpg)
Mating surface of the wheel.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4662398716_393d9f2494_b.jpg)
Finally, the back side of the wheel, where this ugly little party got started.
When the wheel was installed, the pegs on the hub went into the big open slots, rather than the holes.
Disturbingly easy to do.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4661776533_93df71503f.jpg)
Mating part of the hub, just to help clarify it a bit for those who haven't seen an SSS wheel setup.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1280/4662398328_123a30e1d5.jpg)
Peeples is dumm sumtimes I sweers... [roll]
That's a good one Speeddog. I haven't seen that failure before! [thumbsup]
we had someone locally do that a while back... i'm really surprised i haven't done it myself yet actually :-\ makes me think i should just grab a spare hub setup from the parts for sale section just in case. i've heard a noticeable (even with ear plugs in) "squeak squeak squeak" for a while when taking off from a stop...and wondering if that's coming from the hub area.
WHY didn't the wheel / hub designers make that interface pok-a-yoke (1 way to install - error proof)! It would have been soooo easy with a web of material in the wheel pockets or extra pins in the hub...
This is more than 3 times I have seen this on the dmf, although this is the worst example of wear.
mitt
Also looks like pipe wrench or Channelok pliers teeth marks on the nut in the first pictures. Tells something about the care taken in the past installation.
Exactly. It's not "fool proof" but the wheel clearly only goes on one way. A lazy or bad mechanic is going to screw things up no matter what.
To over engineer something to help out the stupid is a waste of an engineers time imho. Next time, just do it right.
Quote from: jim_0068 on June 02, 2010, 09:14:44 AM
To over engineer something to help out the stupid is a waste of an engineers time imho. Next time, just do it right.
If you can easily assemble it incorrectly in a way that is not noticeable and causes great expense, it was never engineered in the first place.
It would not be difficult to make it so that rim fits on one way only.
True, but the 5-spokes are specifically trying to be lightweight.
There are four posts on the hub, and four post holes in the wheel. Any mechanic worth their salt would look at that and install accordingly.
We're getting a bit off topic here, though. We could start a new thread for proper bickering. :)
Quote from: MrIncredible on June 02, 2010, 09:22:41 AM
If you can easily assemble it incorrectly in a way that is not noticeable and causes great expense, it was never engineered in the first place.
It would not be difficult to make it so that rim fits on one way only.
That's the real problem with this.
It's easily avoidable from the very start, at the factory.
The wheel could be just as light, and still prevent incorrect assembly.
Quote from: Speeddog on June 02, 2010, 10:38:42 AM
That's the real problem with this.
It's easily avoidable from the very start, at the factory.
The wheel could be just as light, and still prevent incorrect assembly.
It sounds like you may have had issue with it in the apst?
"Finally, the back side of the wheel, where this ugly little party got started.
When the wheel was installed, the pegs on the hub went into the big open slots, rather than the holes.
Disturbingly easy to do."
That true? Because AFAIK, you're considered a truly excellent Duc mech-and I figure if you can almost do it, the process is in need of help.
Okay, MrIncredible - I concede. It's a bad design. You've made your point. :)
I'm sorry, but bad design or not, you gotta be paying pretty much ZERO attention to make the beast with two backs that one up.
Do you not even spin the wheel a little after you slide it on? I mean christ, even tightening the nut by hand at first should slide the wheel enough for you to notice something isn't right.... but hey, he probably just air-hammered it on there to about 900ft lbs...
Quote from: MrIncredible on June 02, 2010, 11:48:29 AM
It sounds like you may have had issue with it in the apst?
"Finally, the back side of the wheel, where this ugly little party got started.
When the wheel was installed, the pegs on the hub went into the big open slots, rather than the holes.
Disturbingly easy to do."
That true? Because AFAIK, you're considered a truly excellent Duc mech-and I figure if you can almost do it, the process is in need of help.
No, haven't done it or almost done it, but I always take care to ensure that the wheel is going on correctly.
Yes, I'd rather that Ducati had done the job right at the start.
Quote from: corey on June 02, 2010, 11:55:37 AM
I'm sorry, but bad design or not, you gotta be paying pretty much ZERO attention to make the beast with two backs that one up.
Do you not even spin the wheel a little after you slide it on? I mean christ, even tightening the nut by hand at first should slide the wheel enough for you to notice something isn't right.... but hey, he probably just air-hammered it on there to about 900ft lbs...
I haven't tried an improper assembly to see how it looks, but....
The wheel will sit flat, as it's resting on the shoulders of the pins.
There will be a gap at the back for that same reason.
It might not torque down with a proper 'feel'.
A lot of picking up on that comes with experience.
I've been working on cars and bikes for 40 years.
Learned from my dad, who's a mechanical engineer.
I'm a mechanical engineer as well.
So stuff that's obvious to me isn't necessarily the same for other folks.
this thread has some awesome wowza's.
Discussion on questionable sss hub / wheel design versus perfect mechanical skills
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=39092.msg694026#msg694026 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=39092.msg694026#msg694026)
mitt
Been a while since I added anything.
'08 1098 came in on a flatbed, ~14k miles, had started squeaking and quit running.
Not looking good already:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8119/8658487907_db04360f80_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/8658487907/)
Nope, definitely not good:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8100/8659593170_de67ca408d_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/8659593170/)
And not getting any better:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8126/8658488067_710623dd10_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/8658488067/)
Strained the oil:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8122/8658488311_e56f99f2ce_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/8658488311/)
Dug into the motor, not too bad, barely marked the journal on the crank.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8113/8659592250_6b7322313d_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/8659592250/)
Buuut, this is bad, scraped and hammered out to about half thickness, scuffed the crank quite a lot:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8102/8659592800_1e398a538d_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/8659592800/)
Special bonus; piston tapping the head in the squish area, all the carbon knocked off:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8100/8658488561_711550fe54_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/8658488561/)
Second helping of dessert, rod was so loose that it allowed the piston to rotate enough that the exhaust valve was scraping the edge of the pocket:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8126/8658488683_5292669db0_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/8658488683/)
Aluminum on the (most likely bent) valve:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8101/8658488155_fcaa45ecf9_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/8658488155/)
Quote from: Speeddog on May 20, 2010, 08:23:34 AM
No new shop stories at this time.
Fuel lines from the factory are good stuff, but it seems that allowing them to marinate in spoiling ethanol-laced fuel will kill 'em.
Believe it or not, a lot of fuel additives have rubber-eating ingredients in them -- use too much for the small gas tank and it could easily attack the rubber.
A lot of them (STABIL) use mineral spirits as an ingredient. Mineral spirits eats rubber if left in contact long enough.
I can easily see some schmo putting a FAR too high concentration of Stabil in their gas tank thinking MORE IS BETTER and then that happening.
This thread is awesome [thumbsup]
Quote from: Speeddog on April 17, 2013, 08:35:30 PM
Been a while since I added anything.
'08 1098 came in on a flatbed, ~14k miles, had started squeaking and quit running...
...Nope, definitely not good:
Any thoughts on what caused that on a low mileage bike? I've seen similar, but on real high mileage engines, or rod bearings that were set up with too much clearance to begin with. Seems like even abusing it, would be hard to do that in only 14,000 miles.
Thanks for posting this stuff.
former race bike maybe?
Doesn't look like the bike has been raced.
AFAIK, it's on it's second owner, who knows the first owner.
Reportedly, the bike has never been down.
Probably a temporary oil starvation, too long a wheelie, or high rpm/load when cold.
Brain fade, doing an oil change and start the engine before refilling.
Oil seal on the crank end may have blown, I don't have the clutch sidecover off yet.
Perhaps I'll find the culprit.
That is a LOT of damage SpeedDog...
Are you going to rebuild, or replace the motor with a different one?
Quote from: Duck-Stew on April 18, 2013, 11:48:42 AM
That is a LOT of damage SpeedDog...
Are you going to rebuild, or replace the motor with a different one?
Pending further inspection, current plan is to reload this round.
great thread, very informative. Keep em coming Speeddog!
Out of curiosity, assuming there is no other damage to the piston, besides the valve scrape. Do you replace it? and why or why not?
Quote from: Gimpy on April 20, 2013, 02:52:45 PM
Out of curiosity, assuming there is no other damage to the piston, besides the valve scrape. Do you replace it? and why or why not?
Need to do further inspection, as it was tapping the head.
It may have closed up the upper ring groove.
Eh that 1098 makes me cringe, thanks for the post Speeddog.
At this point not replacing the pistons would be a false economy, IMO.
An ST2 came in on a truck, no run condition.
Key on, fuel pump sounded not so good, more of a wuhhhhhhhhhhhh than the usual wheeeeeeeee.
Checked pressure, 15 psi instead of the normal 45, that explained why it wouldn't run.
Pulled the pump flange out, checked the general condition of pump, filter, screen, wires, all looked good.
Ran the pump directly with 12V, spun like normal.
Ran it with 12v directly to the external plug, spun like normal.
Buttoned it all back up.
Turned the key.....wuhhhhhhhhhhhh.
[bang]
Culprit:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7311/8726457271_35269d903e.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/8726457271/)
Which is really odd.
Every other relay failure has been total, none of this 'runs at 1/3 speed' business.
Opened it up, found the contacts looking like this:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7288/8731592999_3bf53d85c7_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/8731592999/)
Not particularly bad in the grand scheme of relay contacts, but there you go.
Possible there was another problem in the rest of the 'wiring' in the relay, but didn't see anything.
In any case, a new relay got it all back to normal.
Love looking at mechanical dramas. Had one of the fiancee's race bike the other week... Comes in after the last race "after the start, the clutch doesn't work and it makes funny noises". No matter how much you pull on the lever, it was rock solid and no clutch. Very strange. Chucked it in neutral - she did the whole race in 3rd and up as reckoned it was too hard to change back to lower gears, and noting it's a 2 stroke... - and loaded it up on the trailer.
Pulled it apart at home, noticed the entire clutch hub could move in and out. Oh sweet, clutch nut has backed off, easy fixed. Nope, clutch nut perfectly on there... bearing retainer for input shaft to gearbox had snapped and the entire input shaft was floating in and out 10-15mm... Carnage ensued inside the gearbox, 1st hit 6th (weird gearbox design) and the teeth spat out and ran into 2nd gear, so that's 3 gears that were toast. Very surprising the box didn't lock up and spit her off, to be honest.
My my, what interesting oddities Mr. Nick....and pics to boot [bacon] [bacon] [bacon]
Hopefully not thread jacking, but here is a collection of interesting failures combined with some dubious custom mods and a few home repair fails.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=397856553610667&set=a.374315505964772.86299.100001589764053&type=1&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=397856553610667&set=a.374315505964772.86299.100001589764053&type=1&theater)
Enjoy
Great eye for detail mate, belt tensioner is something I'll keep an eye on. [thumbsup]
Thread is a bloody good read, once again thanks.
[puke]
Inaccessible facebook page. Probably a private group or user page
Quote from: Greg on May 24, 2013, 07:31:26 PM
Hopefully not thread jacking, but here is a collection of interesting failures combined with some dubious custom mods and a few home repair fails.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=397856553610667&set=a.374315505964772.86299.100001589764053&type=1&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=397856553610667&set=a.374315505964772.86299.100001589764053&type=1&theater)
Enjoy
'08 1098S brought in for a clicking noise coming from the triples.
That's a 0.015" plastic shim stuck in there.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3919/14421285783_287022f128_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nYmRQk)
Not an odd failure this time, just poorly assembled aftermarket bits.
This kind of thing makes the hair on my neck stand up.
Normal use of the bike easily could have led to a catastrophic failure.
'94 Elefant 900.
Aftermarket brake lines and crash bars installed.
For turning to the right, the brake hose is occasionally being used as a steering stop, being pinched between the fork leg and the crossbar link for the crashbars.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/638/31958995403_1c677f0499_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QG7cU8)
For turning to the left, the brake line fitting is being used as the steering stop, fouling on part of the fairing support (solidly bolted to the frame).
Lines attach to a junction block bolted to the lower triple.
This did, however, stop the fork leg from pinching the hose on the left side.
The bonus is that the improperly positioned crossbar is low enough to jam the low-mount fender into the tire when the front end is nearly bottomed out.
Probably couldn't jam hard enough to lock the front on pavement, but guaranteed faceplant in the dirt.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/414/32649584701_e9f51362fe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RK8E3a)
Holy crap
:o :o :o
I've got a bike or two that I've owned for many years. When working on them I sometimes run across something I did a long time ago that is cringeworthy. Not as bad as the stuff posted here but still...
My excuse that I tell myself is at the time I did the work I didn't have the money to do it right but that does not wash.
Rogue Elefant .
This is my favorite thread by far. [thumbsup] Thanks for posting these stories speeddog, and for always answering my questions in the tech section. Me and my bike would be grounded if it weren't for the helpfulness of DMFers.
I want to share my recent notes from my major service I am in the middle of, after having the bike sit for 7 months.
2 spark plugs were not even hand tight
bolts holding on ECU were not even hand tight
ECU ground bolt? was about to fall out
Alternator inspection cover bolts were very loose
And I always use a torque wrench to re-assemble, as I am a notorious bolt breaker. I will definitely be increasing the frequency with which I inspect things on the DUC.
Blue Loctite is your friend.
Quote from: ducpainter on February 09, 2017, 04:21:46 PM
Blue Loctite is your friend.
+1;
+1;yes, interesting thread; and alarming findings indeed.
Quote from: ducpainter on February 09, 2017, 04:21:46 PM
Blue Loctite is your friend.
purple loctite if you want a little more friendship, but aren't able to commit