As some of you may have read I recently picked up a very lightly (740 miles) used 2007 695. Unless the bike is warm I have to choke it 100% percent of the time to get it turned over and then let it idle for a few minutes before I can back of the choke.
Is this normal or is there any simple (read new to motorcycles) adjustment I can make to rid the bike of this problem?
I tried a quick search and didn't come up with much.
All input is appreciated and thanks in advance. [moto]
That's normal operation.
Use the fast idle lever (its not really a true choke lever), then adjust that lever to the point where the engine isn't stumbling, let the engine warm up so its not flashing "Low" any more on the dash, then turn off the fast idle and hop on.
Though I usually take off before the engine is completely warmed up and keep the idle lever open just enough so that I don't stall out at lights. I take it easy until the bike is up to temp. I don't believe it hurts much as long as you're not thrashing it.
This makes sense. Seeing as the bike is fuel injected that would imply that it does not have a choke. Is this right?
Anyone else have a take on riding with the lever partially engaged?
There is no real negative to running with the fast idle lever partially engaged. All it is doing is slighty cracking open the throttle plates to keep the engine at a higher rpm to facilitate warm up. Riding with it partially engaged is the same as never quite fully rolling off the throttle. On my bike the only effect I notice is backfiring on deceleration. One possible fix for your poor running on cold start up is either the Fat-Duc oxygen sensor manipulator (motowheels.com carries it) or you can wire in a 0-500 ohm variable resistor into the oxygen sensor signal line and adjust the signal that way. Either way will have the ecu provide a little more fuel to the engine, and will improve cold starting 100%. This is probably the best modification I have done.
Quote from: accrocker on June 15, 2009, 07:19:27 PM
There is no real negative to running with the fast idle lever partially engaged. All it is doing is slighty cracking open the throttle plates to keep the engine at a higher rpm to facilitate warm up. Riding with it partially engaged is the same as never quite fully rolling off the throttle. On my bike the only effect I notice is backfiring on deceleration. One possible fix for your poor running on cold start up is either the Fat-Duc oxygen sensor manipulator (motowheels.com carries it) or you can wire in a 0-500 ohm variable resistor into the oxygen sensor signal line and adjust the signal that way. Either way will have the ecu provide a little more fuel to the engine, and will improve cold starting 100%. This is probably the best modification I have done.
haha, sounds like rocket science to me. I'm thinking that cracking the fast idle lever slightly while city driving might also help some of my other issues. Seems like the bike has to be in first if you do anything under 15, if not it just seems to bog down. I'm used to a casual second gear for everything BUT moving from a start.
Quote from: TightLines on June 15, 2009, 07:25:39 PM
haha, sounds like rocket science to me. I'm thinking that cracking the fast idle lever slightly while city driving might also help some of my other issues. Seems like the bike has to be in first if you do anything under 15, if not it just seems to bog down. I'm used to a casual second gear for everything BUT moving from a start.
A change in gearing might help your city riding if you're bogging down. A cheap mod is a 14 tooth front sprocket. The more expensive mod is to change the rear sprocket.
Quote from: JBubble on June 15, 2009, 07:35:00 PM
A change in gearing might help your city riding if you're bogging down. A cheap mod is a 14 tooth front sprocket. The more expensive mod is to change the rear sprocket.
+1 on fixing that issue.
I need the lever open to start my bike as well. I'll leave it open while putting my gear on and checking the bike, but close it when riding per the owners manual. I'll just take it easy until it's warmed up.
I think you lose some top end power with the 14 tooth sprocket though, but pending what type of riding you do, this could be beneficial.
The warning about riding with the fast idle lever on is like the warning about clock radios and bathtubs. As the bike warms up the idle speed will increase, possibly creating a dangerous situation if you forget to back the lever off as the bike warms. Me, I'd ride, then again, I grew up with cars that had manual chokes and a time when there were less safety warnings.
I'll certainly have to look into the 14 tooth sprocket mod as I have heard it recommended often for monsters and other bikes.
I'm also thinking the idle on the bike could be a bit low. I'm not sure of where it idled when warm off the top of my head but I will check tonight.
Where does yours/should the bike be idling without the lever engaged?
Quote from: Scotzman on June 15, 2009, 09:47:08 PM
I need the lever open to start my bike as well. I'll leave it open while putting my gear on and checking the bike, but close it when riding per the owners manual. I'll just take it easy until it's warmed up.
I think you lose some top end power with the 14 tooth sprocket though, but pending what type of riding you do, this could be beneficial.
true, but we are talking about the
very illegal end of the speedo here, so unless you have a get out of jail free card......
Quote from: TightLines on June 16, 2009, 04:29:15 AM
Where does yours/should the bike be idling without the lever engaged?
my 695 idles around 1100rpm once the engine is warm
Quote from: howie on June 16, 2009, 04:21:07 AM
The warning about riding with the fast idle lever on is like the warning about clock radios and bathtubs. As the bike warms up the idle speed will increase, possibly creating a dangerous situation if you forget to back the lever off as the bike warms. Me, I'd ride, then again, I grew up with cars that had manual chokes and a time when there were less safety warnings.
Back when people were expected to take responsibility for their actions. [clap]
Quote from: TightLines on June 15, 2009, 06:50:43 PM
Anyone else have a take on riding with the lever partially engaged?
I do it that way all the time, no problems after 20k miles on the bike. [thumbsup]
Quote from: herm on June 16, 2009, 04:43:16 AM
true, but we are talking about the very illegal end of the speedo here, so unless you have a get out of jail free card......
How much is lost? I haven't gone to a 14 yet because I do a lot of freeway riding and didn't want to be stuck with
90 65 as my max.
Quote from: Scotzman on June 17, 2009, 08:00:50 AM
How much is lost? I haven't gone to a 14 yet because I do a lot of freeway riding and didn't want to be stuck with 90 65 as my max.
I can do 110 indicated on my S2R800 with a 14 tooth front and I haven't quite maxed it out. Its not fun but its doable.
My old 695 had zero issues with going on the interstate as well with a 14 tooth. I can't remember exact numbers on it though.
Quote from: JBubble on June 17, 2009, 08:22:11 AM
I can do 110 indicated on my S2R800 with a 14 tooth front and I haven't quite maxed it out. Its not fun but its doable.
My old 695 had zero issues with going on the interstate as well with a 14 tooth. I can't remember exact numbers on it though.
You might have convinced me to go with it
Quote from: Scotzman on June 17, 2009, 12:30:25 PM
You might have convinced me to go with it
The 14 tooth is a cheap mod and if you find you don't like it, go on back to the 15 tooth. I saved my stock one in case but I like the 14 tooth.
If you do the switch yourself, just make sure you put the new sprocket on there correctly. If its backwards, it can cause a ton of damage.
I have a 695 that is 14/46 (+4 in back) and on the freeway I used to be about 6k rpm at 90mph with only the 14t in front and stock in back. Now with the 4 up in back I'm about 6k rpm at 80mph and 6800 rpm at 90mph. Not that bad man. If I'm not wheeling all the time I usually get around 40-42mpg still too.
I have stock rear gearing, and a 14tooth in front, engine is spinning at 5300rpm at 80ish instead of exactly 5000rpm at 80mph with stock front sprocket. It didn't make a huge difference, but it does make taking off when riding two up much nicer. You don't have to abuse the clutch quite so much.
In regards to the 14tooth sprocket-Oops, we're all thread jackers, but I really appreciate all the input on people's riding experiences with the 14tooth. [beer]
I had the stock gearing for about 10k miles, a 14T for about 10k miles, and I missed the 15T, gonna switch back shortly.
Quote from: somegirl on June 18, 2009, 10:41:55 PM
I had the stock gearing for about 10k miles, a 14T for about 10k miles, and I missed the 15T, gonna switch back shortly.
What'd you miss about it or are you being the devil's advocate? [laugh]
Quote from: Scotzman on June 19, 2009, 11:21:50 AM
What'd you miss about it or are you being the devil's advocate? [laugh]
I just feel the bike is too low-geared with the 14T on. It makes me have to change gears more frequently in the twisties, I can feel the loss on the highway (harder to do a quick pass), and it didn't cause a huge improvement in the city (stop/go) type riding.
For a $35 mod, I guess it's worth the trial and error and from what I hear, it's not too hard to swap them out.
Quote from: Scotzman on June 19, 2009, 03:33:30 PM
For a $35 mod, I guess it's worth the trial and error and from what I hear, it's not too hard to swap them out.
Agreed, it's certainly worth a try.
Not that this thread needs another topic but I have a couple of questions about the 600 mile service.
I done a search and read some conflicting information relating to anything from having it done to the items included in the service.
The bike currently has 920 miles and has NOT had the 600 mile service. Now I've been trying not to ride until I get it taken care of.
When thinking about the following keep in mind that I know nothing about bike maintenance.
Any harm in putting another couple hundred miles on the bike before the service? I've actually read on a couple of accounts that people recommend putting 1k on a bike before having the service done.
Should I have the 600 mile performed by a dealer or just do an oil change on my own and keep an eye on the chain and other fluids?
Because your question has nothing to do with the title of the topic, I'd suggest just starting a new topic. Your question is a good one and I know people will have answers, but might not look at a topic about the choke lever on a 695.
As far as your bike, are you the first owner of it? If so, it's probably not too bad. You know what kind of riding/break-in has been done. So a few hundred miles is probably not that big of a deal, but others will be able to help you out that have more experience with it. Did your "maint" light come on?
Second owner but I'm fairly confident the bike was never ridden hard.
I thought there was a chance I'd already have a captive audience on this thread. If I don't have any luck I'll just start a new thread.
Thanks for your input.
Do you happen to know where the previous owner got the bike? If he/she got it from a dealer then you can contact the dealer and see if the service was done. If the lights not on now, then as you guessed, the service was either A: done or B: he/she just reset it. The latter seems kind of stupid unless they were planning on selling it and getting one over on somebody.
If the bike is already out of warranty, then I don't see the big deal of a few more miles, but if you don't know about the oil, I was just do it sooner than later because the 600 mile/first oil change is kind of important.
Good luck
I knew at the time that the service had not been done and took that into account before I bought the bike.
I did contact the dealer where the bike was purchased and confirmed that the service was never taken care of.
That being said, is it sensible to do an oil change myself and skip the 600 mile service?
There are a lot of people that are capable of doing the service themselves and actually prefer to do it themselves. If you have the know how, then sure. There's then just the oil change though, ie: checking the torque on certian bolts, chain tension, etc. In the manual it has everything that's supposed to be checked all of which you can do yourself. The 7500 mile service gets more complicated though.