I have a marchesini 5 spoke front that is gray and I would like to paint it black. Can I rattle can it then take it to clear coat and have a presentable durable paint job?
TIA,
Gil
Scuff it up everywhere, clean it off with contact cleaner, and paint it.
It may suffer a bit on tire changes, not so sure about that.
I did this 4 years ago, wheels were originally black, I just added the red.
They still look the same. :)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3038/3078640591_6a5cb98cff_o.jpg)
man those look sweet!
did you just rattle can over the black??
Thank you Nick, I'll have you change the tire so I can blame it on you when the paint chips, jk. Did you clear coat them afterwards?
Quote from: m9hundo on June 17, 2009, 12:05:21 AM
Thank you Nick, I'll have you change the tire so I can blame it on you when the paint chips, jk. Did you clear coat them afterwards?
You can't usually clear on top of rattle can unless you use rattle can clear.
You can uerothane over a rattle can paint the same as you would with any other paint and it will have the durability of whatever the top coat it. Just make sure any primer or base paint adheres well.
As for durability, I haven't seen anything that stands up well to rock chips and careless tire changers (including powder coating). I try to use a paint that will be easy to touch up. Anything with a clear over it tends to leave a halo when touched up but Ducpainter might have so ideas to minimize it.
The ideal paint to touch up is flat black, anything, anywhere.
Quote from: Mr Natural on June 17, 2009, 04:09:00 AM
You can't usually clear on top of rattle can unless you use rattle can clear.
is that because the industrial type clear will eat away the rattle can paint?
Yes, I just rattle canned over the black.
No clear coat.
i think the rule is, you can use a urethane clear over laquer, but not enamel. or something like that.
i used a acryllic lauqer on my tank and then had a urethane clear over it. looks great, but the clear was too soft for my liking though.
Quote from: m9hundo on June 17, 2009, 07:49:02 AM
is that because the industrial type clear will eat away the rattle can paint?
i think FISHEYES!
Quote from: m9hundo on June 17, 2009, 07:49:02 AM
is that because the industrial type clear will eat away the rattle can paint?
Most rattle cans are enamel.
Mot automotive clears are urethanes.
The enamel wrinkles.
...and he man is right....kinda.
You can use a urethane over lacquer but you need to use an adhesion promoter/inter coat clear to maintain adhesion.
QuoteI did this 4 years ago, wheels were originally black, I just added the red.
They still look the same. Smiley
What brand of paint did youse use? Seems like there's a big variation in rattle can paint quality and price isn't always a good indicator of quality. I remember a long time ago someone did a rattle can paint study/test to find out what brand is best, but it's been so long the results probably aren't valid, plus...I forgot who won.
I've done this probably 100 times. All you have to do is give the base rattle can about 2 hours to set up otherwise is will alligator. And, yes, there is a significant difference in the quality of rattle can brands, but I forget which is which.
Quote from: Langanobob on June 18, 2009, 06:32:50 AM
What brand of paint did youse use? Seems like there's a big variation in rattle can paint quality and price isn't always a good indicator of quality. I remember a long time ago someone did a rattle can paint study/test to find out what brand is best, but it's been so long the results probably aren't valid, plus...I forgot who won.
Rust-Oleum, Sunrise Red.
Krylon is good stuff as well.
^ Yep, those are the two I use. I *think* that I improve the paint durability of small parts by baking them at 250F or so for awhile but can't prove it. But regardless of the results it's very fulfilling to sneak bike parts into the kitchen oven.
Quote from: Langanobob on June 18, 2009, 08:00:34 AM
^ Yep, those are the two I use. I *think* that I improve the paint durability of small parts by baking them at 250F or so for awhile but can't prove it. But regardless of the results it's very fulfilling to sneak bike parts into the kitchen oven.
LOL! yeah, my girlfriend was speechless when she saw my freshly-painted top triple baking in the oven!
I've done that too, but my wife was anything BUT speechless!! ???
Baking...how long after you paint do you bake it? and does that help it to just set better?
Thanks
not a good idea if you cook with that oven. those fumes are pretty nasty.
heating the item up will allow the paint to cure quicker. especially since the metal underneath will heat up quick too.
About when to bake a part, I'm not sure I do it "right" but I wait until the paint is pretty much dry before sticking it in the oven. I think the heat tends to polymerize the paint molecules (as if I knew what that means :)) and make them tougher.
No worries about fumes, if my wife comes home and doesn't ask "What have you been doing??! What's that smell?!" It's a safe bet there aren't any fumes. More fumes just living and breathing in NYC that baking parts in an oven.
Quote from: Langanobob on June 21, 2009, 07:27:08 AM
About when to bake a part, I'm not sure I do it "right" but I wait until the paint is pretty much dry before sticking it in the oven. I think the heat tends to polymerize the paint molecules (as if I knew what that means :)) and make them tougher.
No worries about fumes, if my wife comes home and doesn't ask "What have you been doing??! What's that smell?!" It's a safe bet there aren't any fumes. More fumes just living and breathing in NYC that baking parts in an oven.
Waiting is good...
it allows the solvents to evaporate so you don't get solvent popping.
The only way a paint can polymerize is chemically...
heat can only speed the reaction of what's already in the mix.
QuoteThe only way a paint can polymerize is chemically...
heat can only speed the reaction of what's already in the mix.
So, as far as improving durability, is baking paint a waste of time and energy?
Quote from: Langanobob on June 21, 2009, 11:35:36 PM
So, as far as improving durability, is baking paint a waste of time and energy?
Overall durability?
Yes.
Rattle can enamel takes a long time at room temp to fully dry so you
are improving the initial durability by actually drying the paint.
I *think* dupli-color brand rattle can stuff is an air-dry urethane. No way it's even close to a proper automotive type finish for durability, but it is better than Krylon etc. for solvent resistance. Anyway, I painted the wheels on my '82 CB750F using their "high performance wheel coating" 6 or 7 years ago and they are still holding up pretty good. Main thing is to get 'em clean before you spray.