for an 02 M750. it's the kind with the slot and holes around it.
Chris at CA-Cycleworks said I didn't need a special tool. he said i could use a drift and a hammer...what's a drift? ???
any other home remedies for this?
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2061/2509852678_1de298b736.jpg)
Hammer and punch will do you no good, as this is what it looks like, right?
(https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3071/2509930906_8189a0da56_o.jpg)
You need a tool, like this:
(http://www.motowheels.com/italian/images%5Clg765133011.jpg)
MotoWheels tool (http://www.motowheels.com/italian/myproducts.cfm?parentcategoryid=589%7CTools&productID=2875&showDetail=1&categoryID=591%7CMoto%20Tools&vendoridtodisplay=0&filterFor=&collection=588%7CStands%2CTools%2C%20Supplies%2C%20%26%20Fluids)
They're out of stock per their website, perhaps desmotimes?
that's what i was looking for speeddog, i can't seem to find anyone that has them and i'll be dammed if i'm paying $300 from ducati. (i don't know the actual price, that's what they wanted for the offset to remove the cyl head bolts though)
http://www.amazon.com/Unknown-Adjustable-Pin-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B000MP81GI
Adjustable pin spanner
A big-A flat head screwdriver works too. [thumbsup]
http://www.desmotimes.com/ (http://www.desmotimes.com/) Click on Tools, scroll to Row 1, $39.99.
Use 2 long screws and a crescent wrench to turn them by gripping the wrench on the screws placed in 2 of the opposite holes... A screwdriver will destroy the slot in that very soft metal... Don't sak me how I know... :-\ $40.00 for a tool to use once in a blue moon... Nope. I did a google search and came up with the above solution; but the guy who created it actually made a tool with the 2 screws...
Quote from: Mr Earl on May 20, 2008, 05:03:27 PM
http://www.desmotimes.com/ (http://www.desmotimes.com/) Click on Tools, scroll to Row 1, $39.99.
thank you sir [thumbsup]
Quote from: scooby on May 20, 2008, 06:18:24 PM
Use 2 long screws and a crescent wrench to turn them by gripping the wrench on the screws placed in 2 of the opposite holes... A screwdriver will destroy the slot in that very soft metal... Don't sak me how I know... :-\ $40.00 for a tool to use once in a blue moon... Nope. I did a google search and came up with the above solution; but the guy who created it actually made a tool with the 2 screws...
i was debating making something like this, but i'm afraid i would actually screw up my whole headset.
The bearings need to be torqued to a specific value, so you really need to be able to put a torque wrench on whatever tool you use.
There are two points for adjustment for the steering head. There is a spanning nut under the upper clamp that adjusts the pressure on the steering head bearings themselves. This should be snug enough to remove the play in the bearings, but not over-torqued, as it can damage the bearings.
The picture showed is actually the fastener that secures the upper clamp to the steering stem. If you have the tools and a little ingenuity, something like what scooby mentioned will work great (and has). Also, your auto-parts store usually sells two-pin wrenches for somewhere in the neighborhood of 8$ that will remove/tighten that nut without an issue.
Quote from: Capo on May 21, 2008, 03:17:18 AM
The bearings need to be torqued to a specific value, so you really need to be able to put a torque wrench on whatever tool you use.
Thank you for saying this. I was reading down through this and was thinking the same thing.
You need to be able to put a torque value on the nut and with all the other methods you can't do this.
You need the proper tool and with the proper tool you are more prone to check your steering head bearings
for wear and grease etc.
M
Quote from: rebelpacket on May 21, 2008, 09:46:50 AM
There are two points for adjustment for the steering head. There is a spanning nut under the upper clamp that adjusts the pressure on the steering head bearings themselves. This should be snug enough to remove the play in the bearings, but not over-torqued, as it can damage the bearings.
The picture showed is actually the fastener that secures the upper clamp to the steering stem. If you have the tools and a little ingenuity, something like what scooby mentioned will work great (and has). Also, your auto-parts store usually sells two-pin wrenches for somewhere in the neighborhood of 8$ that will remove/tighten that nut without an issue.
On my S4R, the nut shown in the pic, secures the stem to the bearings, there is no second nut.
NO NO NO, Just use a heavy duty rubber strap wrench from craftsman. All these other tools are either expensive or destrucive.. Especially the drift and hammer.
See link below: And yes. I have done this before. Use the red one.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00945570000P?vName=Tools&cName=HandTools,GeneralPurpose&sName=Adjustable%20Wrenches&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00945570000P?vName=Tools&cName=HandTools,GeneralPurpose&sName=Adjustable%20Wrenches&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a)
How were you able to measure the torque when using a strap wrench?
My opinion from personal experience here.
The steering stem nut operates very much the same way as an oil filter. Hand tight and then 3/4 of a turn. You dont want to apply too much pressure as this will reduce the lifetime of the bearings. The nut wont be coming loose because the top triple holds it in place. There is a bolt that secures the top triple around the nut.
That being said the rubber provides just enough grip to torque it properly but starts slipping before it gets too tight. Approx 3/4 to a full turn should work.
after reading some of theser responses i think the reason chris told me to use the drift is because of the spanner type nut that rebelpacket mentioned.
Quote from: EEL on May 21, 2008, 10:34:27 AM
My opinion from personal experience here.
The steering stem nut operates very much the same way as an oil filter. Hand tight and then 3/4 of a turn. You dont want to apply too much pressure as this will reduce the lifetime of the bearings. The nut wont be coming loose because the top triple holds it in place. There is a bolt that secures the top triple around the nut.
That being said the rubber provides just enough grip to torque it properly but starts slipping before it gets too tight. Approx 3/4 to a full turn should work.
to do this you would have to remive the top triple correct?
That is correct.I suppose the socket adapter might work without taking off the triple but I dont know if you could trust how tight the nut is on there with the top triple on. That being said, that nut isnt something that readily comes loose so usually its done when your putting in new bearings, lower triple or top triple work.
What is our reasoning behind tightening it?
Quote from: EEL on May 21, 2008, 01:48:31 PM
What is our reasoning behind tightening it?
1) i'm getting a new triple
2) it seems to have a bit of a wobble and i want to see if it came loose (like half the other things on my bike) and just needs to be tightened before replacing the bearings.
Perhaps a stupid questions, but, do you have to remove the front wheel and/or fork legs to tighten the top nut?
MonsterParts added the tool to their catalog when I asked for one:
http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/CI-tripletool/Maintenance/CI-tripletool.html (http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/CI-tripletool/Maintenance/CI-tripletool.html)
Quote from: erik822 on August 04, 2009, 09:22:43 AM
Perhaps a stupid questions, but, do you have to remove the front wheel and/or fork legs to tighten the top nut?
nope.