My '00 M750 has been in "storage" for 7 years. By storage, I mean she was rolled into my garage with only 3,000 miles logged, where she has sat virtually untouched. It's a long story, but involves losing a close friend and a series of (non-cycling) accidents. Anyways, I am beginning the process of reviving her with very modest wrenching skills and am putting together a list of things that need to be addressed to make her road worthy once again.
The bike is mostly stock, but with a K&N air filter and two nozzles removed from the airbox top, and gutted stock pipes. New pipes to come later. Emissions stuff removed with a K&N breather in place.
Any input is greatly appreciated...
1. Battery. Surprisingly, seems to be recovering nicely with an Optimate charger. Looks to be holding a charge.
2. The Carbs. Yes, I'm an idiot and failed to use stabil, so they probably look like the inside of a jam jar. I should probably just order a rebuild kit and plan to replace all the gaskets and rings? I've got a Haynes manual and think I can tackle this myself since I successfully rejetted it back in the day (thanks to Scott Nelson's write up, thanks if you're still around). But any pointers or links to walkthroughs are welcome. What about the fuel pump and associated lines?
3. Brake and Clutch Lines. Totally out of my element here. Any chance the fluids are still OK, as old as they are, or should I plan to have them both flushed? Don't know that I'd attempt this one myself, but I'm 1.5 hours away from the closest Duc shop so we'll see.
4. Tires. No doubt I have two big flat spots. Essential that they are replaced or can I give them a go?
Thanks for any help from someone who is eager to see this beautiful bike back on the road. [moto]
If the tires have been sitting for 7 years, they need to be replaced, period.
Also, you'll need new belts before you ever try to turn the engine over. If they break, you'll likely damage valves and pistons.
Tank will likely need to be thoroughly cleaned as I'm sure it looks like the carbs do.
I would replace the brake and clutch fluid since they attract water and are likely heavily contaminated.
Good luck and post up some pics...
Replacing brake and clutch fluid is easy if you buy the right tool. It certainly needs to be done before you take it out on the street.
It can be done with a simple 1-way valve, but buying a nice vacuum pump is the best way to go.
Read this article on webbikeworld for a good introduction: http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-technical-articles/bleeding-motorcycle-brakes/bleeding-motorcycle-brakes.htm (http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-technical-articles/bleeding-motorcycle-brakes/bleeding-motorcycle-brakes.htm)
For like $70 in tools + $5 in fluid, you can flush the brakes/clutch yourself in less than an hour, and then you can do it yourself in the future. It helps to have someone else with you, since you need to pump out old fluid while filling in new fluid, since if the reservoir runs out of fluid, you'll have air in the lines.
I'm a noob with a wrench, and I managed to bleed brakes without much hassle. Just make sure you buy the right tool and it's NBD.
The tires need to be replaced, but getting it started is more important and difficult, so focus on that first. :)
Other things include the engine oil + filter, and you also should probably clean and re-oil the K&N filter, although that's not as big of a deal.
Good luck!
Thanks for those replies NAKID and filter... new tires and new belts now on the punch list along with a thorough tank cleaning. More enjoyable research. And I'm reading that brake/clutch flushing article, filter, and look to do that myself, thanks again.
Nice to have some support like this. The old mailing list was always helpful but being part of a strong forum like this with knowledgeable folk is such a huge relief. Cheers! [drink]
Am I correct in guessing that TOB stands in for The Other Board? I've had a glimpse of the advertising politics at work and am happy to park myself in the most non-commercial spot available. No matter really, I can see that the creme de la creme find this forum home. Thanks again guys.
1. tires
2. WD-40 or similar in the cylinders in case the rings are stuck
3. belts
4. rebuild carbs
5. check tank for rust
6. fuel filter
7. oil+filter
8. check/clean chain and sprocket
9. plugs
10. check/clean all electrical connections
11. flush hydraulics
12. wash bike
13. lube various points about the bike
14. take it easy at first, when you're confident it's safe give it a good old Italian tuneup
15. scrutinize for leaks
LT Snyder's book would help you a lot; I recommend it. Good luck- 7 years is a long time but the bike's fine, just needs stuff.
Quote from: Raziel on July 14, 2009, 07:29:24 PM
Am I correct in guessing that TOB stands in for The Other Board? I've had a glimpse of the advertising politics at work and am happy to park myself in the most non-commercial spot available. No matter really, I can see that the creme de la creme find this forum home. Thanks again guys.
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=20564.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=20564.0)
Raziel? the stupidest angel?
can't you just, like, perform a miracle on the bike, or would that raise the zombies, too?
;D
[laugh] [laugh] [laugh] [clap]
That is one of the most brutal videos I've ever seen. Guess I should be glad I missed all the drama. ;D
Thanks for that thorough list and book recommendation bergdoerfer.
And I haven't read that teddy037.2, but I hear Lamb is a hoot.
Quote from: Raziel on July 15, 2009, 09:11:48 AM
And I haven't read that teddy037.2, but I hear Lamb is a hoot.
they're all good. moore's one of my favorite new authors. lust lizard of melancholy cove is the only one I haven't read yet
:)
Quote from: Raziel on July 14, 2009, 05:40:15 PM
I've got a Haynes manual and think I can tackle this myself since I successfully rejetted it back in the day (thanks to Scott Nelson's write up, thanks if you're still around).
Yes, I'm still around. I just ride an ST2 and an 888 rather than a Monster now, and both of those are fuel injected. I have a Honda needing some carburetor work soon, though.
I hope you got the point about not even attempting to start the bike without putting on new cam belts. If they've sat in the same position for seven years they'll be brittle at the points where they bend around the pulleys and likely to break there. Don't take the chance.
I'm not sure if anyone mentioned the other fuel paths, including the vacuum petcock and vacuum operated fuel pump. Those will likely need to be taken apart and at least cleaned.
I wouldn't try riding on the old tires either, just for traction issues.
The rest of the hints you've received sound good. I hope you'll update this thread with your progress. I would like to find out how things go until you get it 100%.
Welcome back to riding ;D Nothing to add, all has been covered.
I finally made some headway today and pulled the carbs. I was kinda waiting to find a pair of rebuild kits for the Mikunis but have had NO luck anywhere I've looked, despite cross-searching under the four Yamaha models that spec'd the same BDST carb including the FZR-1000. So I figured I'd pull them anyway and start cleaning while I was looking.
Things were going well until just after I removed the airbox. The hose to the fuel filter, which has achieved the consistency of cookie dough, began to spray fuel. Everywhere. [bang] [laugh]
Luckily I had a zip tie handy and was able to make a tourniquet until I could get the tank off and get it outside to drain it with a length of fresh fuel line. I'm sure everyone is wondering about the exciting photos that accompany this narrative but you'll just have to trust me when I say the old gas looked somewhere between maple syrup and apple cider. There appears to be a bit of surface rust in the neck of the tank and I will def post some pics after I nose around with a dental mirror as I'm wondering if I should give it the POR15 or some other treatment.
So the carbs are off but I haven't opened them up yet. I'd forgotten how many hoses there are meandering around under the airbox.
Tune in next time when I will attempt to reattach those pesky throttle cables, assuming I have gaskets and o-rings. And put new belts on. BEFORE trying to turn her over...
And thanks again for the warm welcome everyone.
AFIAK, there is no kit, the parts need to be ordered individually.
I guess there is if you're in Europe...
https://shop.strato.de/epages/61126768.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61126768/Products/vergaser_0006/SubProducts/vergaser_0006-0015
(https://shop.strato.de/WebRoot/Store4/Shops/61126768/474C/2860/368A/BD01/A29F/C0A8/28BB/CADA/vergaser_0044.jpg)
Will keep looking but I bet you're right Howie, only choice may be to order individual gaskets and o-rings.
Maybe they ship to the US? You might also try these guys http://www.sudco.com (http://www.sudco.com)
let me know if you need something from europe. i can run (literally run [bang] ) to the local ducati shop and pick it up. I'm heading there tomorrow in fact.
Thank you kindly Raux, that's a nice offer, but the exchange rate and shipping makes it a pricey proposition for me at over $100 USD, so I'm going to keep looking and wait for motorcyclecarbs.com to get back online (server crash) and also call Sudco per Howie's recommendation. If that doesn't work out, I may be back to take you up on the offer!
I tore the carbs apart tonight, yeesh... they look like a week old breakfast skillet that's been deep-fried and drizzled with butterscotch. The float bowl gaskets and jet carrier gaskets are *maybe* salvageable, but it's iffy... some of the o-rings have seen their better days too. I'm hoping to clean everything this week and see how things go back together but I'm probably gonna need the rebuild kit or at least order some of the individual items if I can find them. Meanwhile, I keep running across references to the Keihin FCR's and it's getting harder to stop looking. Until I look at the price tag, that is...
The battery, I'm happy to say, continues to hold a charge so that's good news. Still need to take some pics of the tank!
yeah don't worry about the shipping. i have an american post office post here so it's stateside rates to ship to you.
If Sudco doesn't have the parts, these guys will, unfortunately it's communication 1980's style:
QuoteThank you for visitng Motorcyclecarbs.com. Our server has suffered a catastrophic crash.
If you have orders or questions please email us. at: sales [at] motorcyclecarbs. com.
We estimate that our site will be down till the end of the month. Our staff is overloaded and we are drastically trying to recoup.
We appologize for this inconvenience, and ask that you be patient with us. This is a very trying time. We are not out of business.
Sincerely,
The management.
Motorcyclecarbs.com
1.Belts
2.Tires
3.Oil
4.Gas
That's my list [thumbsup]
I haven't tried bleeding the brakes on my bike yet, but I've heard they can be a PITA. I remember watching an episode of Gearz on Speed channel a while back, and I saw a brake bleeder that might make life a lot easier. It pushes the air up and out the master instead of trying to suck it down and out the caliper.
There is even a video from the Gearz show showing how it works.
http://www.brakebleeder.com/ (http://www.brakebleeder.com/)
If you are just changing the fluid and there is no air in the system you will be fine as long as you don't run the reservoirs dry or release a lever with a bleeder open.
OK so I'm sloooooooooowwww..... :P
I finally got some free time and the new cam belts are in, it was much easier than I thought it would be. I used the 5mm allen key trick to set the tension.
The carb rebuild kits I got on ebayUK are on their way, long wait. Of course the day after I ordered them they were available again here in the US, online. Naturally. Still need to finish cleaning the carbs so I can pop everything back into place when they arrive.
And I haven't done the hydraulics yet, but I think I'm going to pick up a few stainless speed bleeders from fleabay.
In the meantime I decided to upgrade to the Evoluzione plug wires, but ran into a snag. I thought these would be plug and play, but I'm a little confused. The unfocused pic below shows the bottom of the coil (bottom) after pulling the existing plug wire, which I'm holding. Upper right is the new Evoluzione plug wire. What am I missing? Do I need to fab something, or is there more of the existing plug wire that needs to come off the coil? Doesn't look like that's possible but what do I know.
(http://i31.tinypic.com/b55kcx.jpg)
When I replaced my plug wires, I just cut off one of the ends of the new wires and then screwed the new wires in where the old wires came out. The new wires didn't have the same metal core for the coil to "bite" into, so I used a bit of silicone adhesive to make sure the wires don's come away from the coils.
Hmmmm.... does that mean I can just chop the new wire and push it over the wee rod inside the sleeve? I'm not sure I got everything off of it, as I pulled rather than unthreaded the old plug wire, which I've since read is the thing to do. Seems like a pretty tenuous electrical connection.
Anyone else care to chime in? This seemed like such an easy mod, I figure someone else has been down this path. Screw on the new cable, or???