So the lowdown is i installed levers and a 14t front sprocket on my s2r800. of course i touched both the slave and master while doing so. everything was great until i tried to move the bike in gear with the clutch in. doesn't move unless you push the bike hard, then it seems normal after something "breaks free" and the bike will move freely. didnt notice this b4 and in neutral it doesn't have this problem
first i thought my levers were mis adjusted so i put the stock one back on and nothing changed.
now i didn't have a any brake fluid but i did bleed the slave i little bit but no air came out that i saw.
btw what DOT fluid does the bike come with?
also took the slave off and put it back on.
adjusted my lever to much to try and get the most leverage possible but the clutch would slip at WOT.
should i bleed the lines completely? what else?
thank you
Dot 4 fluid and read this, it may help.
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=27290.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=27290.0)
The screw you adjusted is a free play adjustment. You want 1 - 1.5 mm free play to avoid slipping. If all is normal once "something breaks free" the problem may just be sticking plates and might be a temporary situation. Any DOT4 or DOT5.1 (not DOT5) will be fine. DOT3 is OK in a pinch.
thx for the replies guys. i bleed the slave but that didnt do anything. im wondering if there might be some kind of shim or spacer that is suppose to sit ontop of the slave piston? making the clutch disengauge further?
Nope - no shim or gizmo that sits in your slave.
It is normal for the bike to be hard to push in first gear, clutch lever pulled. Even though the clutch is disengaged, your working against the oil and clutch plates. Once the oil is warmed up, the bike is easier to push. Correct, there is no shim on the slave. You can gravity bleed the slave. Just open the bleed screw, let it dribble out through a hose into a pan. Take the clutch master cylinder lid off, and keep adding fluid until your confident youve flushed the system. Dont let the level drop so low that it exposes the inlet port. Youll have to start over again.
Still have exactly the same symptoms as the OP, despite several textbook bleeds from either the M/C banjo & slave. [bang]
P.S. DOT 5.1 from the dealer is just fine. You can mix it with 3 & 4, but not 5 (4 is more heat resistant or something, and about twice the price IIRC).
Is it really normal for there to be no difference between clutch in and clutch out when trying to push the bike cold? That is until you slam it both directions a couple times with enough momentum...
It's not unheard of for the plates to stick in a wet clutch. The effect of that is even when you have pulled the lever, drive and driven plates are still in contact, like when you lever is out. A good shove with the lever pulled is usually enough to bust the sticking plates free.
Dry clutch that got wet - say rained on over night can for rust on the steels, and stick that way.
hmmm i see. well down shifting into low gears feels clunky a lot of the time. i can live with it, i just don't want to wear anything prematurely. thx guys.
Quote from: yuu on August 01, 2009, 04:45:51 PM
It's not unheard of for the plates to stick in a wet clutch. The effect of that is even when you have pulled the lever, drive and driven plates are still in contact, like when you lever is out. A good shove with the lever pulled is usually enough to bust the sticking plates free.
Dry clutch that got wet - say rained on over night can for rust on the steels, and stick that way.
Yeah! I sucked it up and went for a good long ride. After everything had warmed up, it was as good as neutral in all six lever positions!
[beer]
I have been riding to work a lot (which is just a couple miles away and the oil has never had time to warm up), and that may have even made the condition worse in the garage for all I know.