This is an unmoto application but could see where this skill would be useful.
Im fabricating an 18 guage, brushed finish, SS backsplash for a clients kitchen. Whats the best way to cut the stuff without it turning blue or distorting? Ive got a switch to cut in as well as an exposed edge arc. SS will be mounted on a 1/2" MDF backerboard.
Thanks in advance!
Interior cuts? Got a water jet?
Work slow and keep it cool. It'll be a hassle. One tick to keep it cool is set it on a wet towel or similar. And.. go slow
water jet or wire EDM
;D
Like a water pick??
jig saw on slow speed with a super fine blade and a wet towel?
That'll do. YOu might need to file/dress the edge after.
Pardon my ignorance but is 18Ga too thick to cut with tin snips?
Quote from: dlearl476 on August 13, 2009, 12:55:16 PM
Pardon my ignorance but is 18Ga too thick to cut with tin snips?
How big are your arms? ;D
how about an air shear
Check the local phone book for a metal fab shop or someone with a brake shear.
Id use a brake shear, but thats only because i have one sitting in my garage. if you want a nice clean cut, its the only way to go.
But, if the cut doesnt need to to 100% pinpoint straight, id use an air sheer. the other part might not be recoverable depending on the size you are cutting though. Youd have to have some good hands to keep to cut nice though. and a mean set of gloves so you dont get cut up.
laser cutter... ;D
I used a buddys plasma cutter on a ss vent hood with great results.....luckily the cut was hidden.
Part of this backsplash will have an arc....how do I cut that f-er?
I designed SS industrial equipment (filtration at 800 GPM) and shearing was the only way to get a true, undistorted edge. We sheared up to 11-gauge SS316. Maybe plasma for short runs would be OK. If you take your pieces to an industrial sheet metal fab shop, I'm sure you could get them to shear them for a reasonable price.
Get it sheared to size by a sheetmetal shop.
They *may* be able to punch the switch cut-in without distorting it.
Also, they may be able to rough cut the arc close enough for you to finish smooth it with an angle grinder.
Failing that, a thin cutoff wheel in an angle grinder for both the switch cut-in and the arc.
You could use a jigsaw with fine blades, but it'll likely eat quite a few blades.
Unless it's a short cut on the arc, tin snips would be a beyotch, and it'd be likely to distort.
I was gonna make the same suggestion about an angle grinder or die grinder with a cutoff wheel for the arc. Might help to use some kind of coolant to keep the heat and any discoloration down, although it's gonna get sprayed all over and make a mess. Or, can you use the sabre saw from the back side (convex side) of the arc? Assuming that arc means the metal is already bent in a curve.
Do NOT get a cutoff wheel wet. They will disintegrate at 20,000 rpm and hurt you.
Quote from: 64duc on August 17, 2009, 09:26:25 AM
Do NOT get a cutoff wheel wet. They will disintegrate at 20,000 rpm and hurt you.
This is the first time I've heard that. Can you document the source of this info? Not to be construed that I'm promoting any practice that might be unsafe, I'd just like to see some sort of documentation. Coolant is almost universally used for all kinds of grinding operations and I've never heard of any warnings about it weakening wheels. And, not that my Google skills are infallible :) but I couldn't find any references to danger involved with wet cutoff wheels.
Not trying to be argumentative, just seeking after the Truth...
i vote water jet. i am currently working on a job at work and we are having some parts cut, i took a tour of the shop and was quite impressed, then i got the quote and was even more impressed. cutting 40+ 3" holes in 1/2" manganese bronze and they are doing it for around $250 a pop IIRC.
aaron,
I'd also vote for water jet if he was making a whole series of these things. But I think this is a custom one-of-a-kind job and some of the cutting may even need to be done on site. I think the set up charge for a one-off water jet job might be too pricey, but then maybe not.
I'm lusting over having my own affordable water jet cutter but my investigations on building my own ended up with "Don't even think about it" :)
rgramjet may be finished by now and I'm curious how he ended up doing it.
my 250/pc is for just two pieces (also two larger pieces for $400/pc). i do not think there is that much setup required. i brought a drawing in and while i got the shop tour (30 minutes) their cad guy made a model and set up the tool paths. he had the quote and was ready to produce in a half hour. no set up, just throw the plates onto the table, reference the tip and hit go. at least that is what i was told. the price was based entirely on cut speed required for material/thickness and number of inches of cutting required.
make some phone calls, you may be surprised.
Received the SS last Friday. Backsplash pieces are all cut to height and width. Just need to cut out two outlets, one will be for a range hood and hidden so We'll do that one first! Client is making up his mind about whether he wants an arc or not. Will transition from cabinet height to bartop over about 14", not to extreme.
Will post pics when its done!
Oh, almost forgot. Adhering the SS to an MDF backerboard. The dealer recommended liquid nails, contact cement, double sided tape or velcro. We are going the contact cement route for a very permanent installation.
^
So, how did you end up cutting the thing?? :)
Quotemake some phone calls, you may be surprised.
aaron, I have an old antique truck that was missing the radiator logo and a couple years ago I did go to a local water jet shop and got a reasonable estimate for cutting one out of stainless steel. So, yeah, maybe I was just being negative about my perceived high price of water jet cutting.
Quote from: Langanobob on August 17, 2009, 01:54:45 PM
This is the first time I've heard that. Can you document the source of this info? Not to be construed that I'm promoting any practice that might be unsafe, I'd just like to see some sort of documentation. Coolant is almost universally used for all kinds of grinding operations and I've never heard of any warnings about it weakening wheels. And, not that my Google skills are infallible :) but I couldn't find any references to danger involved with wet cutoff wheels.
Not trying to be argumentative, just seeking after the Truth...
That statement applies to the thin cutoff wheels made for small (3 & 4 inch) air die grinders. The packaging label says not to use them if they have ever been wet. It also says max rpm is 15,000. The average speed rating on a small air grinder is 20,000, but I've not seen one disintegrate from speed. I tried it once (wearing a face shield and leather apron) and it shattered within seconds. The larger (16 inch) made for Gas cutoff saws are made for water cooling. Doesn't apply to grinding wheels. Although some are labeled dry only.
Most all of this comes from 30+ years experience as a mechanic in the rental industry. Last 12 with NationsRent and Sunbelt Rentals.