My '97 M750 is difficult to get into neutral when coming to a stop. Sometimes I can finese it down from 2nd, but it usually goes to 1st. Then, sometimes I'm able to lift it up into neutral, but when it's hot - neither works that well. I use dinosaur 20w-50 and wonder if any of you found an improvement finding neutral by changing to synthetic. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Are you trying to downshift from 2 to N?
I'm not quite sure what you're trying to get the bike to do.
Yes, when coming to a stop, I'm trying to go into neutral from 2nd. When that fails, I go to 1st and then lift up to neutral. But, at times, neither seems to work when the engine's hot.
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When I bought my M900 last year, I had occasional problems finding neutral too. Don't know what kind of oil was in it, but I switched to Klotz synthetic oil, and shifting seemed to be smoother through all the gears including finding neutral.
How fast are you going when you downshift from 2nd? Is it at every/any speed?
I have the same issue with my 99 750.
Finding neutral from first is difficult; it slips up to second.
It just took me time to get used to the very small tap to get it in neutral. Lots of times, the N light comes on and it really isn't in neutral.
Maybe my clutch plates are bad, who knows.
Just need to learn the bike and how it reacts. But I agree, as the bike gets warmer, it is easier to find neutral.
Usually between 2 and 3 grand as I'm coming to a stop. It does seem the closer the engine gets to idle the more apt I am to find neutral and the likelihood is much greater if I'm moving. Once stopped, it's more difficult.
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Different oil might help, but before doing that, bleed the clutch. If you do change to synthetic make sure it is JASO MA to assure it is compatible with your wet clutch
I'm with Howie - bleed the clutch. This is classis symptoms of a clutch line with some air in it - as a result, the clutch doesn't 100% disengage which makes getting N difficult
Quote from: howie on September 14, 2009, 09:58:11 PM
Different oil might help, but before doing that, bleed the clutch. If you do change to synthetic make sure it is JASO MA to assure it is compatible with your wet clutch
the best oil I've ever run in my bike was a full synthetic car oil, I think it was Castrol.
Now I run Amsoil moto oil.
clutch has been bled and is fine.
Thanks all for your suggestions, I appreciate them very much. I think I'll start by bleeding the clutch master cylinder and progress to synthetic oil if that doesn't resolve the situation. I have adjustable CRG Roll-A-Click Adjustable Levers that if I crank them any further, they seem to bind - like the length of travel is too far. I'll see what if anything works and report back. Thanks again all!
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