Well after having the Monster S2R (my first bike) about 5 weeks, I had my first serious mishap today. Had just bought some new toys for the bike (chain lube and tail fairing) and rolled the bike out to start working on it. Must not have had a good footing under the side stand and as I walked away the bike fell onto it's left side
Looks like the damage is:
Broken clutch lever
(https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3535/4005690032_8737d2abd0.jpg)
Bent shift lever
Bent shift connecting rod
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2570/4005694110_b3dfda5e8e.jpg)
Broken left mirror
Scuffed up misc. parts (bar end, passenger pegs)
Also, the gearbox seems to stick down when downshifting, the lever doesn't reset to the middle position. I'm hoping that this is due to the bent lever and connecting rod and will be fixed when I fix the lever, any experience with this?
So how much of this can I fix myself?
I am mechanically inclined, but I don't have a garage so I can't have a multi-day project.
Attaching pictures of the broken clutch, bent shift lever, and a picture of my baby before her first encounter with the pavement.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2424/4004922401_2651948f17.jpg)
I had pretty much all the same things happen on a low speed lowside to my S2R. Its all pretty easy to fix and you can just buy all the parts and do it yourself. I decided on some new Rizoma bar end mirrors instead of getting a new Ducati bar end. The gearbox should be fine, you just need to replace all the bent stuff. It will take you an afternoon to fix it. So crack a beer, have some friends over to help if you need it and get that baby patched up.
If you don't have a pillion, you could just ditch the passenger pegs anyway. I swap mine on and off depending on the situation.
chances are the sticky gearbox is due to the bent rod.
you can fix this stuff yourself no problem. you get to buy more toys :)
my recommendation would be to post up in the parts wanted section. get yourself a used cheap brake lever..i would go bling aftermarket yet, as your probability of another drop is high as a new rider. stock levers can be found all over ebay.
or, better yet.. grab these off of jeff over at monsterparts: http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/ADJLEVER/Controls/ADJLEVER.html (http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/ADJLEVER/Controls/ADJLEVER.html)
they should do you just fine, and will even offer up some adjustability.
as far as the shift linkage goes, just try and find a used one, or give your dealer a call. shouldnt be to expensive.
note that the one end of the shift linkage does have a reverse thread.
leave the bar-end weight as is, incase you drop again
leave the rear passenger pegs as is, they act as sliders in these cases.
leave all that stuff alone, and leave your exhaust stock until you get at least a year under your belt :)
then, GO NUTS. [beer]
You can at least TRY to bend the gear lever and rod back. Take them off first. If it works, fine - if not, no harm done [thumbsup]
Mirror - perfect opportunity to go aftermarket 8) (Rizoma, CRG, Monstrack, Oberon, .... ....)
Our sponsors will have anything you need.
When you put on the new lever, read the very bottom part of this ...
http://www.ducatisuite.com/leverchange.html (http://www.ducatisuite.com/leverchange.html)
Maybe you need to do this procedure on the brake lever as well.
Congrats on the bike and the virgin mishap. You'll be fine [moto]
As noted, that's all pretty basic stuff to fix. Just take your time and don't rush/worry.
I'm 99.9% sure you gear shift issue is due to that bend. Sort that out should restore normal operation. The rod is probably done. You can try to straighten it, but it'll probably snap before you can get ti straight again. The lever, there's a pretty good chance you can recover that. As said, just have it off the bike, some time in a wood jaw vice and a soft faced mallet should work it out.
For your clutch lever, that's an easy job. CA-cycleworks (a sponsor) should have levers. Basically you need to remove the pivot ans swap swap - easy as pie.
One thought - for your shifter if you want to try GP shift, now's a good time! You can get a billet GP lever
Thanks for all the great advice everyone! I picked up a set of stock clutch/brake levers off someone who upgraded to CRGs for a lot cheaper than the dealer would have charged. For the mirrors, I'll ride with one cracked one for a while until I upgrade, probably to Rizoma Retro Reverse mirrors
(http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/images/BS070B.jpg)
(http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=521 (http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=521))
I also picked up a torch to heat the shift lever as I try to bend it back into shape, so I've got nearly everything I need now.
One question, to replace the clutch lever I was looking at the instructions at:
http://www.ducatisuite.com/leverchange.html (http://www.ducatisuite.com/leverchange.html)
And they all make sense, up until this section:
Quote
If you are replacing the lever with a new one, there is a good chance that the adjustment screw on the handle will be
out of whack. You will need to adjust it for proper and safe braking- if adjusted improperly the brakes could lock up
or not work at all.
Locate the screw on the side of the handle, then remove the master cylinder cover and seal. SLIGHTLY pump the
brake or clutch lever (fluid will jump high if you operate it normally), and check for surface movement in the
reservoir. Continue to slightly screw in the adjuster and check for fluid movement on top until there is no more
(surface movement indicates that the return circuit is open, which is necessary to operate correctly). When you no
longer see movement when pulling the lever, back out the adjuster counterclockwise one full turn, and check for
movement again. You should be set then. Check for proper release and operation before heading around the block
just to be safe.
Do I need to do this process for the clutch? I've never opened the master cylinder reservoirs, can't I hurt things by opening that up? Like get air in the system?
removing the cover will not let air into the system
Quote from: corey on October 12, 2009, 10:12:30 AM
chances are the sticky gearbox is due to the bent rod.
Did you really just say that the sticky box is due to a bent rod? :o [evil]
It would take more than a tip over to do any real damage to the gearbox.
Quote from: sroberts152 on October 12, 2009, 01:18:29 PM
Did you really just say that the sticky box is due to a bent rod? :o [evil]
It would take more than a tip over to do any real damage to the gearbox.
hah. wow. no innuendo intended either. nice ;D
Quote from: smilingbear on October 12, 2009, 12:57:30 PM
One question, to replace the clutch lever I was looking at the instructions at:
And they all make sense, up until this section:
Do I need to do this process for the clutch? I've never opened the master cylinder reservoirs, can't I hurt things by opening that up? Like get air in the system?
Just try to position the bars so that the reservoir you're working on is close to level. When you squeeze the lever, you should do it VERY VERY cautiously, it doesn't take much to make it into a fountain. (FHE ;))
Best way to decide if you need to do this is to try the new lever on the bike. If you like the clutch action, no need to do it. Brakes, on the other hand, usually will benefit from this procedure. I have done it on three S2R800's and none of them were even close to being correctly adjusted. If they're not adjusted properly, the already semi-poor S2R800 brakes will be dangerously poor - they won't push to their capability before they hit the grip.
I hope I don't scare you or discourage you - I'm just hoping you'll take the time doing this - the result might very well surprise you in a good way.
Ask again if you need further explanation [thumbsup]
BTW: a torch might burn the surface on the rod and lever? Only cosmetical though.
QuoteBTW: a torch might burn the surface on the rod and lever? Only cosmetical though.
Might soften the metal too. I think using a vice with two pieces of wood could bend it back with just the vice pressure.
EDIT: It will aneal the metal making it softer after it has cooled.
I bend the lever on the bike and cold.
Just go slowly.
I've done mine several times. :P
Quote from: ducpainter on October 12, 2009, 05:07:36 PM
I bend the lever on the bike and cold.
Just go slowly.
I've done mine several times. :P
Thanks, you leave it on the bike while you bend it back? That would be much easier, I tried to loosen that fastener on the end of the shift lever and it's pretty damn hard to turn with an allen wrench.
I have been mining the forum and remember someone suggesting to heat the shifter up before trying to bend it back into place in order to avoid breaking the cast aluminum (it's relatively brittle stuff), so that's why I was going for the torch method.
However I'll definitely have to remove the connecting rod to try to straighten that one out - will probably need to buy one but I'm willing to try bending it back before springing for a new one.
Quote from: smilingbear on October 12, 2009, 05:53:13 PM
Thanks, you leave it on the bike while you bend it back? That would be much easier, I tried to loosen that fastener on the end of the shift lever and it's pretty damn hard to turn with an allen wrench.
I have been mining the forum and remember someone suggesting to heat the shifter up before trying to bend it back into place in order to avoid breaking the cast aluminum (it's relatively brittle stuff), so that's why I was going for the torch method.
However I'll definitely have to remove the connecting rod to try to straighten that one out - will probably need to buy one but I'm willing to try bending it back before springing for a new one.
the rods are cheap and worth getting a new one or a non-bent used one.
The shift lever will straighten without heat. They are pretty soft. the rod however is hollow, it will probably break, but nothing to lose trying.
Quote from: sroberts152 on October 12, 2009, 01:18:29 PM
It would take more than a tip over to do any real damage to the gearbox.
That's partially true. It would take more than a tip over to any real damage to the gears. The shifter pawl springs, however, are another matter. You'll want to replace the bent parts, then recheck the mechanism to make sure it's centering after shifting. There are springs that center the shifter pawl and they can be damaged more easily than you think. A friend with a 1098 just replaced his after it spontaneously broke without assistance from a tipover.
It's probably OK...and the springs are easy to replace, and really inexpensive, so don't sweat it either way. Just check the shifting action when you've replaced the bent rod and shifter.
Quote from: smilingbear on October 12, 2009, 12:57:30 PM
Do I need to do this process for the clutch? I've never opened the master cylinder reservoirs, can't I hurt things by opening that up? Like get air in the system?
Smilingbear...the only way to top off your fluids (which is required maintenance!!) is to open those reservoirs. You can't introduce air by opening the tops...however you can introduce air by not topping off. The danger is that the air within the reservoirs might get pulled into the pumps (master cylinders, if you like) if the fluid levels get too low. BTW....air in the system isn't the end of the world, either, as long as you're not riding when you discover it. Bleeding is another topic, but it's quite easy, and every motorcycle owner should know how to do it.
Hey smilingbear
sorry to hear about the tip over, you didn't hurt the tail fairing did you? :D Need the matching gloss black fly screen now? I have one for sale. Give me a shout if you need anything, I have just finished reassembling a totaled M800Sie.
dan
Quote from: dan-o on October 14, 2009, 02:20:16 PM
Hey smilingbear
sorry to hear about the tip over, you didn't hurt the tail fairing did you? :D Need the matching gloss black fly screen now? I have one for sale. Give me a shout if you need anything, I have just finished reassembling a totaled M800Sie.
dan
Thanks Dan, I was just about to install the tail fairing when the bike tipped over. Way to turn a fun event into a downer! I didn't hurt it, and as soon as I get the bent shifter and broken clutch issue sorted out I'm going to put the tail fairing on.
I'll let you know about the windscreen - we'll have to see what it looks like with the tail fairing on before I buy some more kit.
For the OP:
Ebay Seller has an S2R rear brake lever up for sale right now, just needs the rubber toe cover off your old one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DUCATI-MONSTER-S2R-S4R-S4RS-REAR-BRAKE-PEDAL-LEVER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27ac144f34QQitemZ170390736692QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1761wt_941 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DUCATI-MONSTER-S2R-S4R-S4RS-REAR-BRAKE-PEDAL-LEVER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27ac144f34QQitemZ170390736692QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1761wt_941)
Quote from: corey on October 15, 2009, 06:52:27 AM
For the OP:
Ebay Seller has an S2R rear brake lever up for sale right now, just needs the rubber toe cover off your old one:
..........................
Corey, you're really helpful - finding and providing a link and all [thumbsup]
(too bad it's the sfift lever the OP needs [laugh]
FWIW - I was serious about the helpful effort!
There is a clutch lever for sale on the "other" ducati web site, they are asking $40, It is super easy to replace it
dan
Quote from: dan-o on October 15, 2009, 01:54:33 PM
There is a clutch lever for sale on the "other" ducati web site, they are asking $40, It is super easy to replace it
dan
$40!? Man that's a rip off. If I recall correctly CA-Cyleworks has levers for $12-15
Take a good look at the steering stem lugs wot limit the forks turning too far. Unlikely too be damaged in a dropover, but worth a check. Your handlebars may also have bent a little.
Quote from: stopintime on October 12, 2009, 11:09:25 AM
You can at least TRY to bend the gear lever and rod back.
As stated previously, it is best if you heat the aluminum before you try to bend it back into shape. I have a commercial heat gun and have bent some really nasty looking levers that almost everyone would have swore was going to break. Heat is your friend. A hair dryer can help a bit, too.
Quote from: smilingbear on October 12, 2009, 12:57:30 PM
And they all make sense, up until this section:
This is a method to ensure that the piston in the master cylinder is fully retracting in order to let fluid back into the reservoir. If the return hole is blocked or pratially blocked, you can run across the situation where the brake will pump up, not release, and you'll go sliding down the road on your keister because your brake locked up on you. There is a guy over on the ducati.ms forum who just had that happen to him with his 998.
Quote from: smilingbear on October 12, 2009, 05:53:13 PM
I tried to loosen that fastener on the end of the shift lever and it's pretty damn hard to turn with an allen wrench.
Ducati ususally used blue Locktite on this bolt to prevent it from vibrating loose. It probably will be a bit difficult to loosen without a hex-socket and a rachet. Once, again, heat may help you loosen this. ;)