Ducati Monster Forum

Hi all,

I've been browsing and searching for the best way to upgrade my M1100 forks. There are many reasons why but then I'll probably get flamed for all.

I've been doing some info gathering and need to confirm all measurements. I.e. fork lengths, But just throwing this out there.

The 08 CBR1000rr triple trees I beleive are 50mm top and 54mm bottom, same as ours. Therefore an Ohlins FGRT806 (replacement for the CBR1000) would fit. The sliders are 43mm. I need to verify if the fork bottoms can be changed out to the 848 fork bottoms (848 also has 43mm sliders). From what I read the 848 and M1100 front wheels are direct swaps without mods, so there should be no mods to make if the 848 bottoms go on. Therefore no changes needed to the M1100 brakes, axles, wheels. Not sure about the front fender though.

In all FGRT806 with 848 ohlins fork bottoms and slap them onto the M1100 triple trees and use existing M1100 wheels, axles, brakes, etc..

It will still cost quite a bit but probably much less than the claimed $5000 that DP wants for the M1100s forks. I haven't inquired how much here in Canada But I wouldn't be surprised if it's closer to $6000. [bang]

FGRT806 - $2500 (est. waiting for reply from Hardracing)
FGRT803 radial fork bottoms - $1500 (Ohlins rep said $750 each)
TOTAL - $4000

Thoughts? Errors?

Please note that I've gathered the info from the web. I'll have to check and measure a friends 08 cbr1000 in the next couple of days. I've also emailed Ohlins about the fork bottoms.

UPDATE

Confirmed from Ohlins that the FGRT 806 is a 50mm/54mm setup. Same as our M1100 triple tree! [clap]

Waiting to see if the Duc 848 FGRT803 radial fork bottoms will mount to the FGRT806 forks.

Total cost has also been updated.

Interesting.  

Have you checked spacing differences for the rotor to caliper between the cbr and the 1100? I'm just thinking it might be worthwhile if you can skip on the fancy lowers for the duc, sell your stock front end, and then you could probably buy brembo calipers with cbr/big 4 spacing if you really wanted to stick with brembo.

Might save you a little...

Cheaper still to get your factory forks redone with cartridge kits, etc, and you'll have a better fork than even production runs of Ohlins (because it'll either be Ohlins, or a direct competitor's set up for your weight, and often with the top level valving... like 25mm instead of 20mm)

also a good point.

Keep in mind also that like...tons of the big 4 bikes from the last 4 or 5 years have 50/54 forks and axle sizes seem to be standardizing for whatever reason.  Even if you want the Ohlins just for the bling factor you still may want to check out eBay for used sets and what not.

If you go back and search "ohlins" "suspension set up" in my previous posts, you'll see a post from Dept. of Suspension (I think that's who it was) would would do the Ohlins internals in my Showa forks (non-superbike showas), and even anodize the tubes gold if I "needed that", and he felt that I'd have a better set of forks under me than if I had run out and purchased a set of Ohlins R&T (which he felt were lacking on the T, though ok for the R).

Traxxion makes full cartridges, including a GAS CHARGED, and it would be less than what you are looking at. Then again, the crazy bad ass Ohlins that the WSBK guys run are yours at dealer cost for under $8,000. (Who knows, you may not really have a budget).

So that makes three really bad ass options to consider that are essentially "confusion" free. No changes to front wheel, axle, triple clamps, etc. Those were, again, the Race-Tech G2-R Cartridge Kit - $1,200-1,500, the Traxxion AK-20's - $1,000 (and AK-Gas - $2,500), and the Ohlins 20/25mm options - $1,000-1,500 (Figures are approximate from memory)

And a good quote to re-read several times over is:

I contacted DanKyle Racing and Ohlins, reply was they don't make 25mm cartridge kits for the M1100. Although I didn't ask about the 20mm cartridge kits.

Got the same reply from Traxxion and Race Tech about their kits as well - nothing. Although Traxxion said they would look at my forks and see what can be done. I have to reread my emails at work.

One thing I didn't factor in was the spacing between forks for the CBR1000rr, thanks for pointing that out. Although I believe I read some where that it was 204mm. I need to verify with my friends CBR and my M1100.

I was just trying to figure out a way to get better suspension than stock and for less money then what DP would charge. $5000+

Could  also fit current R6 forks with the 25mm cartidge kits from Ohlins. Set up is 50mm/50mm. So you'll need shims for the lower triple. Tons of R6 parts. That would be sweet, especially with the high/low compression adjustability. Still need to confirm length, and spacing of the r6 forks. I just happen to still have my r6 [thumbsup].

If the spacing is a non issue,  I'm leaning towards the CBR1000rr Ohlins or R6 with 25mm  inserts, Marchessinni wheels for the corresponding fork, associated hardware  i.e. brakes, axels etc.   This would be cheaper and gauranteed to all bolt up correctly plus the benefit of lighter forged aluminum wheel and less hassle.

Thanks for your inputs all.

there are several companies that make fork lowers for the ohlins including style and performance (desmoworks is one of their suppliers)

also i'm confused by the need to measure spacing between the forks? the triple dictates that. so if you're using your stock triple and the lowers that match your stock... everything is the same as stock.

Very good point above about the forks ^^^

If you use stock triples, then no big deal!

Thanks for that info. I'm assuming that the fork bottoms can indeed be switched out, Since Ohlins sells them separately. They quoted me $1500 for the 848 fork bottoms, which are the same as ours.

Yes, you're right, if I can get lowers for the ohlins that are the same as stock then there is no issue, and no need to measure. Everthing will bolt right up, wheels and all.

Couple of questions:
-Would the Showa M1100 fork bottoms bolt up to the Ohlins? they're both 43mm. If they do then that would be a significant savings.
-What labour is involved in switching out the bottoms? Is this a bench job or can it be done while attached to the bike?

Thanks!

Forks need to be off the bike and disassembled I believe.

The triples were never my issue. My issue was that the forks I'm getting FGRT 806 have the radial fork bottoms for the CBR1000rr. My options are;

1. Use my existing wheels, brakes etc.. To do this I need to get the radial fork bottoms changed to I.e. 848 radial fork bottoms, or another supplier that can provide same as M1100 specs, or see if the Showa radial fork bottoms from my bike will mount to the FGRT806.

2. Leave the Ohlins as is purchase CBR1000 10 spoke marchessinni wheel, brakes, etc..however for everything to bolt up properly without custom work, the spacing on the CBR1000 triples has to be the same as the M1100 or else wheels, brakes, etc..won't fit. Unless it's just a spacer issue which can be resolved very easily.

i'm still working on how to detach stock lowers. i'm not sure if they are pressed in or screwed in. the parts catalogs shows them as one piece with the slide tube (696 forks). but i think the 1100 does the same.

I'm talking to S&P about their lowers with radial mounts for the S4R and if they line up with 696. i am going to send my forks to them for measuring.

as far as how to work on them. get a front undertriple stand. lift the front of the bike up, easy to do. just slide everything out slowly and back in slowly not to scratch anything.

here's one for the ohlins but not sure of the newer applications.

(http://www.styleandperformance.it/Style/FOTO/Piedini/oh%2001%2000.jpg)
  Code : KPR.OH.01.00

Application : Ducati 916S-SPS-996-748R+S998S+Biposto+Multi S

Material : Alluminium

Treatment : Anodizing

Notes : Bottom forks for radial brake 10 mm, Ohlins forks 43 , for Ducati
 

The skeletal ohlins are hot!

(http://www.motowheels.com/italian/images/lg563457798.jpg)
From Motowheels: http://tinyurl.com/yjgcc3p (http://tinyurl.com/yjgcc3p)

ooooo those are NICE!

Would you have S&P's website?

i been eyeballin' these billet lowers for awhile, but my showas are 41, not 43. ho hum.

I would definitely look into new fork internals rather than swapping to Ohlins forks.

Also, good call on not getting the DP Ohlins forks.  I've heard the Ohlins that come with the S model are pretty much the cheapest forks that Ohlins makes.

It doesn't necessarily have to be the same, most of the differences can be compensated for with spacers.  The issue would be, what is the width difference at the rotor and at the bearings between the stock m1100 wheel and the cbr wheel.

www.styleandperformance.it (http://)

their site is very frustrating right now but i do know they are working on a new one.

?

Thank you. They have a lower fork bottom for the Ohlins 848 upgrade (KPR.98.OH.08 Bottom fork for radial brake 108 , billet for Ohlins fork Ducati 1098 R and S + 848)

I inquired with them and desmoworks about that fitting on to the Ohlins FGRT806. Same size forks 43mm. However I'm not sure what the 108 means in the product description. I'm hoping it's not 108mm for the brake caliper because the Monster is 100mm.

the 100mm is the distance between the mounting bolts. some of the other brakes are 108mm.

just tell them what you need.

+1
If Traxxion, RaceTech, Dept. Of Suspension, Lindemann Engineering, etc. do not have anything for the M1100 Showas it's because they haven't had a fork to use as a template yet. Send them your fork and they will make it happen. That's the easiest, cheapest, and smartest way to go. Not an opinion, but fact.

I am also interested in knowing how to remove the lower from a showa fork.  I have searched the internet and have yet to find how it is done.  I can see a small allen set screw in the side, and I figgure the rebound adjuster needs to be removed.  Other than that is it just a mater of clamping the tubes in a vise and unscrewing the bottoms?  I am thinking of power coating mine.

heard the same thing. it's hard but basically you just unscrew if from the bottom. maybe a strap-wrench and vise. i am going to a shop that knows how to do this and ask more questions next week.

I talked to some AMS guys about this - said they used to do it all the time for AMA racing, and they said its a humongous pain in the ass (not that it can't be done). Somethin' to think aboot, eh.

I realize this is an old thread, but does anyone have anything new to add on upgrading M1100 forks?