What's the best way to secure one to the wall? I have the typical LCD mount brackets, but not sure the best way.
This being Cali, it should be a way that will stand up to an earthquake.
Help please.
Quote from: MrIncredible on October 30, 2009, 12:35:27 PM
What's the best way to secure one to the wall? I have the typical LCD mount brackets, but not sure the best way.
This being Cali, it should be a way that will stand up to an earthquake.
Help please.
http://www.confast.com/products/concrete-sleeve-anchor.aspx#sleeve-anchor (http://www.confast.com/products/concrete-sleeve-anchor.aspx#sleeve-anchor)
click the tech info link
That should satisfy your inner engineer. ;D
http://www.tapcon.com/ (http://www.tapcon.com/)
I might be best to put some anchor some 2x4's to the wall then attach a standard tv mount to that.
You can get tapcons or redheads (same thing, different name) at Lowe's or HD.
Duct tape, lots & lots of duct tape. ;D
Quote from: Mad Duc on October 30, 2009, 01:49:23 PM
http://www.tapcon.com/ (http://www.tapcon.com/)
I might be best to put some anchor some 2x4's to the wall then attach a standard tv mount to that.
You can get tapcons or redheads (same thing, different name) at Lowe's or HD.
No wood in the clean room (this is at work).
Quote from: Mad Duc on October 30, 2009, 01:49:23 PM
http://www.tapcon.com/ (http://www.tapcon.com/)
I might be best to put some anchor some 2x4's to the wall then attach a standard tv mount to that.
You can get tapcons or redheads (same thing, different name) at Lowe's or HD.
I've used a ton of tapcons...
I wouldn't hang a tv from them...
Quote from: Mad Duc on October 30, 2009, 01:49:23 PM
http://www.tapcon.com/ (http://www.tapcon.com/)
I might be best to put some anchor some 2x4's to the wall then attach a standard tv mount to that.
You can get tapcons or redheads (same thing, different name) at Lowe's or HD.
I'd go this route too, but I'd add some construction adhesive the the 2x, I'm not sure how good Tapcons work in block. If the 2x won't work then maybe a mounting plate of a layer or two of 3/4 plywood Tapconned and glued to the block instead.
Quote from: ducpainter on October 30, 2009, 01:16:43 PM
http://www.confast.com/products/concrete-sleeve-anchor.aspx#sleeve-anchor (http://www.confast.com/products/concrete-sleeve-anchor.aspx#sleeve-anchor)
click the tech info link
+1
Sleeve or wedge anchors, as big as you can go.
We use sleeves at work to attach door systems weighing a ton or two to concrete all the time, should be fine for a TV.
Quote from: Speedbag on October 30, 2009, 02:21:05 PM
Sleeve or wedge anchors, as big as you can go.
We use sleeves at work to attach door systems weighing a ton or two to concrete all the time, should be fine for a TV.
I don't think wedges are recommended for block.
Chemset with threaded rod anchors. ???
^
Im not sure those are rated in a horizontal installations. . .
http://www.powers.com/product_6504.html (http://www.powers.com/product_6504.html)
it can be done, but they're really trying not to recommend it.
Something like this may be a better direction to look in. They're designed for block.
http://www.powers.com/product_09340.html (http://www.powers.com/product_09340.html)
My company is a powers distributor, but im no expert in them as my accounts cut metal and basically never drill and mount anything to concrete.
They make cool stuff though ;D
Dave, are you trying to mount this thing on concrete block or masonry (bricks?)
I should add that those hollow sets, even with crappy concrete and 1/4" threaded rod they will hold 760lbs in tension and 1200lbs in shear.
Per anchor.
8)
Your tv can't weigh that much.
Quote from: Monsterlover on October 30, 2009, 03:24:11 PM
<snip>
Dave, are you trying to mount this thing on concrete block or masonry (bricks?)
Did you read the thread title?
just sayin' ;D
After 5 years of selling stuff to the masses I have learned to always ask the right questions.
Even when it seems obvious.
You'd be surprised how many, many different things "drill" can mean. Or tap. Or saw, or. . .
cinder block. . .
which can mean different things in different parts of the country.
Quote from: Monsterlover on October 30, 2009, 03:44:28 PM
After 5 years of selling stuff to the masses I have learned to always ask the right questions.
Even when it seems obvious.
You'd be surprised how many, many different things "drill" can mean. Or tap. Or saw, or. . .
cinder block. . .
which can mean different things in different parts of the country.
Dood...
he's a rocket scientist.
They never make mistakes...or speak incorrectly. ;D
the Hollow-Set Dropins should work. I build Telcom environments for a living. We use Powers Fasteners all the time. Telco environments must use Seismic rated materials in Bellcore applications.
I definitely would not use Tapcons.
Trex. Fake wood. No dust. If you check Craigslist there should be someone selling some. Just grab a single board. It's 3/4" thick and 5.5" wide. Perfect for your application.
Or this:
http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-Mounting-Kit-Center-Finding-Hollow-Wall/dp/B000X4LTZI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1256946942&sr=1-7 (http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-Mounting-Kit-Center-Finding-Hollow-Wall/dp/B000X4LTZI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1256946942&sr=1-7)
Quote from: ducpainter on October 30, 2009, 02:22:08 PM
I don't think wedges are recommended for block.
Duh....missed the cinderblock part (sorry, I've been drinking).... :P
Sleeve anchors work in pretty much any kind of block, concrete, or brick.
id put a small hole in the wall throw some steel nets in with some rocks and fill her up with concrete then throw in 4 j bolts and mount a piece of wood to it. which will hold a regular TV mount.
that would be insanely secure for an earthquake me thinks. but pretty permanent too.
im thinking if you tried to put any sort of hole into a cinder block your just asking for trouble. they break really easily. In fact, thats how you split a cinder block, just tap it along the length you want to break off and then give it a wack.
Quote from: ducpainter on October 30, 2009, 01:16:43 PM
http://www.confast.com/products/concrete-sleeve-anchor.aspx#sleeve-anchor (http://www.confast.com/products/concrete-sleeve-anchor.aspx#sleeve-anchor)
click the tech info link
That should satisfy your inner engineer. ;D
+1
I would also recommend some sort of backing to help spread the load. Wood would be an excellent options but not in a clean room. Trex and other synthetic decking material wouldn't work for a clean room. Those material have small pores that like to collect junk. Also the heat from the TV would cause them to warp and sag. There are pvc material you can try but again I'd be worried about the heat.
CMU's are good in compression but terrible in tension. Anchors and metal track to help spread the load? Even something as simple as this http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/28-459-shelf-standards/single-track-shelf-standard-463000.aspx (http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/28-459-shelf-standards/single-track-shelf-standard-463000.aspx)
Quote from: MrIncredible on October 30, 2009, 01:52:53 PM
No wood in the clean room (this is at work).
How have they sealed the block to avoid junk being trapped?
hire a professional ;) [laugh]
Quote from: DuCaTiNi on October 31, 2009, 06:20:00 AM
hire a professional ;) [laugh]
[/quote
Just wait'll next DIMBY!
Quote from: MrIncredible on October 31, 2009, 08:11:27 AM
Just wait'll next DIMBY!
[popcorn]
btw... mike says wood isn't dirty
Quote from: DuCaTiNi on October 31, 2009, 08:42:16 AMbtw... mike says wood isn't dirty
Depends on whose wood it is. [cheeky]
Quote from: DuCaTiNi on October 31, 2009, 08:42:16 AM
btw... mike says wood isn't dirty
Then you two have been doing it wrong. ;)
i don't know WHaT you two are talking about [laugh] [laugh] [laugh]
mike is a PM for a large woodworking company here in NE ;)
Quote from: DuCaTiNi on October 31, 2009, 08:42:16 AM
[popcorn]
btw... mike says wood isn't dirty
To clarify a few things, yes, this is cinder block
wood and fake wood is filthy and cannot be used.
I don't know how they sealed the cinder blocks.
I need to prove I can do this without harming the structural integrity of the blocks.
So far, Nate's option seems best.
is the cinder block (cmu) hollow or filled?
Hollow.
Dear Dave,
If in hollow part of block use Togglers http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php (http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php)
If in web of block or in mortar joints use double-expansion anchors http://www.confast.com/products/double-anchor.aspx (http://www.confast.com/products/double-anchor.aspx) or Tapcon screws
If damage is a big concern, (this is probably overkill) you can use a chemical anchor which doesn't apply any pressure to the block
something like: http://www.powers.com/product_8503SD_8558SD.html (http://www.powers.com/product_8503SD_8558SD.html)
with a threaded stud like: http://www.powers.com/product_6512.html (http://www.powers.com/product_6512.html)
and if it's going into a hollow part use a screen tube like: http://www.powers.com/product_07967.html (http://www.powers.com/product_07967.html)
Good Luck,
Mike
you could also use unistrut to spread out the load instead of wood.
You can get it at any electrical or mechanical wholesaler.
http://www.unistrut.com/ (http://www.unistrut.com/)
I'd just use the anchors like ducpainter posted on the 1st page. The wall mount bracket that comes with the TV should be sufficient for spreading the load, as that is its purpose. If it isn't, or you're not convinced after looking at it, then you could get something like this which will spread the load well enough.
http://tinyurl.com/yf92nnr (http://tinyurl.com/yf92nnr)
Are you positive the cinder blocks are hollow?
I've mounted a lot things ( conduit, unistrut, shelves,...) on to hollow cinder block walls.
The expanding anchors are the way to go. Use a piece of unistrut as a spreader to distribute the load. I've had best results when I drill into the thick part of the block. The thin sections aren't as strong, try either 2" in from the edge or centered to catch the center web. Too close to the edge will cause a blow out, ask me how I learned that one.
The other possiblity is to drill all the thru, all-thread studs, and a metal plate on the back side. Don't think a TV is heavy enough to warrrant this.
I heard Billy Mays was working on a solution to this very problem when he met his untimely demise.
Quote from: redxblack on November 02, 2009, 06:07:14 PM
I heard Billy Mays was working on a solution to this very problem when he met his untimely demise.
mighty putty [thumbsup]
Quote from: bobspapa on November 02, 2009, 06:59:10 PM
mighty putty [thumbsup]
is that stuff earthequake proof
The Hilti toggle bolts are nice. Should work fine for a relatively light flatscreen. If in doubt install an "oh shit" eye hook with a leash attached to the tv........just in case.
Good luck!