I can't afford to keep sending my KTM's forks away each season for rebuilding (seals) at $150 a set. The ST4 needs a service and a stiffer set of springs as well (another $150 just for the labor), so thats 3 bills right there, not including any parts, oil, and $100 for springs on the ST.
Traxxion sells a fork tool "kit" for $89, seals are about $25 per bike, and the seal drivers are $35 each on eaby (guy makes them any size you need). Seems like for $150 I can buy the tools to do this each time I need to do it (at least every year on the dirtbike) and do it myself.....IF I KNEW HOW. [laugh]
Anyone here done something like this? It can't be rocket science... I've watched some youtube vids on it, but they seemed to be geared toward dirt-bike forks, and I'm guessing they are different than sportbike stuff.
Advice ?
Found this as well, and since I could make this easily, I could replace the rear spring on the shock as well. 6k miles, I'm not sure if it needs a rebuild at this point :)
(http://racetech.com/images/TSSC02_removeRETAINER_500.jpg)
I use auto spring compressors and a vice for the shock
Lemme look for the pic...
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN1625.jpg)
;D
No special tools for the fork, but I used brass tubing and a small clamp to adjust fork oil volume.
Haven't done the rear shock but the forks are pretty straighforward. Get a service manual for the details.
Here's a nice 2 part vid on youtube. It's a dirtbike fork but it's also an upside down cartridge so same as most modern Ducs. Best rebuld video I've seen:
Fork seals, change on motorcycle part 1 (of 2), twin chamber (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0dLM_IoIOQ#normal)
I didn't replace my seals and bushings, just changed the springs and oil. You do need a way to securely get the front end off the ground. I didn't need a spring compressor for the fork, YMMV. You can often improvise a seal driver with some PVC pipe but the real deal makes the job much easier.
Scott
I found this too, where someone rebuilt S4 forks.
He didn't use any special tools either, which would save me a 100$ (and let me buy the gold valves for the showa/st setup !
http://waste.org/~knobs/fork_rebuild1.html (http://waste.org/~knobs/fork_rebuild1.html)
I could make a seal driver pretty easy I suppose, using that lathe thing I've got in the garage :D
Then again, w/6k miles, should I really need to replace the seals/bushings ? It's not leaking/showing any signs of it at this point.
Searching on google for the best price.....turns out the gold valve and spring part numbers from race tech's website....are also the same ones used in a few buells. $130 for the gold valves and $100 for the springs. I need oil, and some seals I guess. And a spring for the ohlins.
Quote from: pompetta on November 11, 2009, 10:49:49 AM
I use auto spring compressors and a vice for the shock
Lemme look for the pic...
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN1625.jpg)
;D
No special tools for the fork, but I used brass tubing and a small clamp to adjust fork oil volume.
i have that tool, but i havent tried to use it...
Quote from: TAftonomos on November 11, 2009, 11:11:25 AM
I found this too, where someone rebuilt S4 forks.
He didn't use any special tools either, which would save me a 100$ (and let me buy the gold valves for the showa/st setup !
http://waste.org/~knobs/fork_rebuild1.html (http://waste.org/~knobs/fork_rebuild1.html)
I could make a seal driver pretty easy I suppose, using that lathe thing I've got in the garage :D
Then again, w/6k miles, should I really need to replace the seals/bushings ? It's not leaking/showing any signs of it at this point.
Searching on google for the best price.....turns out the gold valve and spring part numbers from race tech's website....are also the same ones used in a few buells. $130 for the gold valves and $100 for the springs. I need oil, and some seals I guess. And a spring for the ohlins.
I wouldn't bother with seals and bushings at 6K.
Sweet, even easier and cheaper [thumbsup] I can't believe I found a TOURING bike w/5500 miles on it....thats an 02. 7 years and 5K miles....why bother owning it?
You will need a shitload of zipties if you use the auto spring compressor for the shock. No big deal but good to have them on hand before you start.
Quote from: TAftonomos on November 11, 2009, 11:11:25 AM
~~~~snip~~~~
http://waste.org/~knobs/fork_rebuild1.html (http://waste.org/~knobs/fork_rebuild1.html)
~~~~snip~~~~
That's a pretty good DIY tutorial.
Some of my recommendations, from *many* years of doing this stuff DIY, and a few years of doing it with the special tools:
Don't clamp the upper tube or lower slider portions of the fork in a vise.
They're quite thin, and if you distort them, you're
totally screwed.
Back out (CCW) the compression adjuster screw all the way, and keep it that way for the entire procedure.
If it's not, you stand a good chance of make the beast with two backsing it up when you put that bolt back in.
Buy/beg/borrow/steal/make a seal driver.
Using a hammer and punch in the vicinity of the fork slider and seal is a recipe for disaster.
Loosen the fork caps
before you take the forks off the bike.
Loosen the clamp bolts on the upper triple first, as they can squeeze the leg enough that the cap won't turn before you've roached the hex on the cap.
Use the compression adjuster bolt for removing and installing the compression valve body.
Don't hammer it out with the damper rod.
His method of spring removal and installation can work, but it's supremely frustrating and a little dangerous.
I bought one of these, and it makes the whole process *far* easier:
(http://www.racetech.com/images/TFSC02Action_220.jpg)
It's a TFSC02 from RaceTech.
They make a simpler/cheaper TFSC01.
One other shortcoming of his spring process is that it makes it very difficult to get the fork cap properly positioned on the damper rod.
You're likely to get them on differently, so your forks will be slightly different lengths when fully extended.
Additionally, the adjusters will have different ranges of travel.
Quote from: vaclav on November 11, 2009, 12:34:55 PM
You will need a shitload of zipties if you use the auto spring compressor for the shock. No big deal but good to have them on hand before you start.
why is that
Sorry I should have said I was referring to the auto spring compressor. When I did it with the auto spring compressor I compressed the new spring; tied it down with zipties; removed the compressor; cranked down the preload on the stock shock; removed the shock from the bike; applied zip ties; released the preload; removed the stock spring; put the new spring in; put the preload collar almost all the way down; cut away the zip ties on the new one; reinstalled it on the bike; and that was it. The auto spring compressor was too bulky to fit on and off the spring while it was on the shock. The one I used looked pretty similar to the one pictured in Pompetta's post.
My setup is a little different being non adjustable but I can compress the spring enough by hand to get in and release it. Then just let it expand while holding it and no explosive situation. It all depends on how much preload there is and how securely you hold the fork tube. I don't have too much preload.
+1 on being careful with your fork tubes in a vice. If you do clamp it only clamp gently near the axle hole and use wood or metal inserts in the vice so there's no metal to metal contact.
Scott
I used the Traxxion fork tool kit for a couple of years and it works well, but for my cartridge forks the manual compressor was an iffy 1-person job that caused anxiety.
Later I picked up the "simple" RaceTech compressor, so now I use that instead of the Traxxion tool. The whole procedure is very painless, so there is no excuse for me not to do annual fork oil changes and/or play with level and viscosity. Have not needed to tackle seals yet.
If you can build a shock spring compressor, with sufficient motivatin you could easily fabricate all the other stuff. Fortunately I run a Penkse shock and their design does not require a compressor for spring swaps. I don't like the looks of those DIY setups - lots of energy in a compressed shock spring...
BK
"Loosen the clamp bolts on the upper triple first, as they can squeeze the leg enough that the cap won't turn before you've roached the hex on the cap..."
Gosh, Speeddog, that is so right!
"You're likely to get them on differently, so your forks will be slightly different lengths when fully extended."
LT Snyder made the point in his manual that the fork lengths may not be the same. After taking mine apart, I wonder how many caps are there floating around with the rods, nuts, and caps not fully seated, causing this.
R.
Quote from: pompetta on November 11, 2009, 10:49:49 AM
I use auto spring compressors and a vice for the shock
Lemme look for the pic...
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/DSCN1625.jpg)
;D
No special tools for the fork, but I used brass tubing and a small clamp to adjust fork oil volume.
God please tell me that spring compressor is installed just for the photo shot
Quote from: Duckintime on November 14, 2009, 07:28:17 PM
God please tell me that spring compressor is installed just for the photo shot
seriously, that is a f'ing bomb. and zip ties? no sir.
pick up one of these sets off of ebay, works well for ~$30, and it securely holds the spring.
(http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/0/2/5/8/2/6/webimg/93169409_tp.jpg)
Quote from: Duckintime on November 14, 2009, 07:28:17 PM
God please tell me that spring compressor is installed just for the photo shot
Nope, works fine. Each compressor has one "arm" over the spring on opposite sides at the top and both arms under the spring at the bottom. When tightened, it can be dropped and not break free.
Quote from: aaronb on November 14, 2009, 09:05:12 PM
seriously, that is a f'ing bomb. and zip ties? no sir.
pick up one of these sets off of ebay, works well for ~$30, and it securely holds the spring.
(http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/0/2/5/8/2/6/webimg/93169409_tp.jpg)
Are those the compressors with plastic hooks? If so, I'd be worried about what happens once those hooks oxidize.
steel hook w/ thin plastic cover. i was very impressed with the quality of my set for the price.
Quote from: aaronb on November 15, 2009, 05:34:14 PM
steel hook w/ thin plastic cover. i was very impressed with the quality of my set for the price.
Steel under there? Sounds pretty good to me...I might get a set. Thanks for the extra info, I didn't see that on the eBay ad.