I have a 2007 S2R1000. Awhile ago I replaced the springs and everything seems to be working fine. However I just was reading Mangeldbug's writeup in the tutorials section:
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=27299.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=27299.0)
and the corresponding section of my Ducati service manual. The part that has me a little confused is working with the rebound adjuster while reassembling the rod and cap. The tutorial has a quote in it that says:
"Back the rebound screw all of the way out. If it does not stop on a "click" turn it back in until it is in one. Turn the screw in three full turns. Pull the damping rod up out of the fork (conventional forks) and install compressor tool kit (inverted forks). Back the jam nut as far down the damping rod as it will go. This will allow you to fully thread the fork cap onto the damping rod. Thread the cap on until it stops turning. Then thread the jam nut up to meet the fork cap and tighten securely. At this point, check to see that the rebound adjuster is "seated". Do this by trying to turn the rebound screw in further. DO NOT FORCE THE REBOUND ADJUSTER INTO A CLICK!!! IT IS A SMALL WEAK NEEDLE AND SEAT ASSEMBLY, AND YOU WILL DAMAGE IT!!! LIGHT FINGERTIP PRESSURE ON THE SCREWDRIVER IS ALL THAT IS REQUIRED. It should not move clockwise when tested from this point. It should back out if turned counterclockwise. If it will not fall into the last click easily, then loosen the cap and try again. If you back it up one click and turn it back in, it should stop in the last click."
I think I understand this, although out of ignorance I did not do this when I reassembled mine and didn't seem to suffer for it. In a nutshell I read it to mean that I need to make sure my rebound clickers are 3 revolutions in when screwing the cap assembly back on the rod. Else my rebound adjustments will be out of whack. Am I right? My other questions are regarding what my manual says about the topic on page 16 of section G:
"Fit the tool part no. 88713.0957 (previously used for removal) into the lateral hole of upper spacer (11). Push the tool down and position the spacer (D) under the locknut of the damper (eight).
Remove the tool part no. 88713.0958.
Screw the top cap (14) on to the damper (eight).
Using a hex wrench, hold the rebound damping adjuster and tighten the top cap to 30 to 40 Nm.
Remove the spacer (D) by pushing the special tool (C, part no. 88713.0957) downwards.
WARNING The adjuster (A) on the top cap (14) should be screwed fully onto the thread of the damper (eight)"
They make no mention of what Mangeldbug says unless it is that warning at the end. Are they speaking of the rebound adjuster or the preload adjuster there? Also that part about the hex wrench makes no sense to me. My rebound adjuster has no flats to put a wrench on. I don't think I care to torque it down either. Are they speaking of the preload adjuster or the hex machined into the cap itself? Or maybe are they saying to hold the rebound adjuster in position as you wrench down the cap. That doesn't make sense either because you would essentially be backing it out as you tightened. I am totally not picking up what they are laying down. Can anyone clarify this?
It is designed to explain how to set it up so you have a full range of "clicks" on your rebound. First time I rebuilt mine, they were short a few. On my forks, the old SS showas they have 14 clicks if I remember right
You are correct on your conclusion regarding the first quoted paragraph.
I think what the second paragraph is describing is how to properly assemble the *center* part of the cap (the part that the rebound screw is threaded into) into the body of the cap.
But without the picture/diagram, can't say for sure.
Thanks for your thoughts fellas. Here is a screenshot of that page. What do you think?
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb71/mchmelik/other/forks-manual.jpg)
OK, the second paragraph is just describing how to install the fork cap onto the damper rod.
It didn't translate very well.
Part "D" I used a large fender washer and cut a slot into it, and built a rig with 2X4's to hold and compress the fork controllably.
So you guys figure they are saying the same as what is already in Mangeldbug's tutorial, but it just didn't translate well? Do you figure the warning in the manual is probably the same thing about the rebound damping adjuster as what Mangeldbug says? I'll try that fender washer idea next time.