Ducati Monster Forum

Question: what should i use to remove scale/rust from inside tank ??

I have purchased a 2nd tank (going 2 change the colour of the bike) and it has a bit of surface rust on the inside. I was thinking of using WD-40 to spray around inside, but thought I'd ask on here first. Don't want to have any bad residue that will end up cotaminating the fuel and cause engine damage.

Cheers, Dukez.

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2555/4159134832_900a3c2913_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2633/4158369093_7c64afca05_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2640/4159137788_3aeb27afe5_b.jpg)

DukeZ, I would suggest you spend the time and $$ to treat it with a tank liner such as tank creem or POR-15. I had a tank rusting right through incident earlier this year. Not pleasent, or cheap.... :(

We used to use a product called "Kream" from memory, which coated the inside of the tank and sealed it and its crappy sirface. Worked a treat. [thumbsup]

I'm sure there would be something like that available now??  ;D

Something like this maybe???

http://www.ferret.com.au/c/Permanent-Painted-Coatings/Fuel-tank-repair-kits-from-PPC-n670840 (http://www.ferret.com.au/c/Permanent-Painted-Coatings/Fuel-tank-repair-kits-from-PPC-n670840)

 Phuc that looks new compaired to inside my tank.
 I drained about half a litre of water out of it. :o
The last wally to own it ripped out the the over flow  drain line from the top of the tank which meant any water when raining or washing ran into the tank [roll].
Looking at what you have there doesn't look to bad if at all.
Good idea as in the service is to drain and clean the tank any way every 12 months or so and keep a check on it..
As long as there is fuel in there and no water you shouldn't have to much problem with  the rust getting any worse.
Wd 40 leaves an oily rusty  sludge. :o
Metho is the best for cleaning out the tank. [thumbsup]
If you do find a product to seal the tank post up the results
because i do need it. :'(
Oh i think have seen a post here or on the main forum about rusty tanks?

Rob

Ps good idea to buy another tank for a colour change [thumbsup]

I have nothing of value to add...

I'm just in here to enjoy Dukez avatar...

 [evil]

Slow night Spider
Now you know a comment like that will hijack this thread and run it in the wrong direction basically down hill once Dragon gets a Sniff [laugh]

1 cup of metho once a month keeps the moisture at bay, particularly if the bike sits out in the elements a bit of the time.  [thumbsup]

Still do it in the M1000S even though the tank is plastic! The fuel pump components are still sitting in the fuel so moisture wont do them any favours.!!  ;D

this link shows the product, which any bike shop can get, but also has the instructions for use.

http://www.monsterpowersports.com/atv_eng/kreem-fuel-tank-sealer-combo-kit.html (http://www.monsterpowersports.com/atv_eng/kreem-fuel-tank-sealer-combo-kit.html)

DukeZ, that tank looks pretty good, when they get scaly rust you add nuts and bolts to the MEK to loosen it before sealing so yours should come up a treat with just the chemicals supplied. If it was mine i wouldn't bother with sealing it, i've seen brand new tanks worse than that, just drain it regularly as others have said to limit water gathering.

paul.
p.s, if you decide to line it follow the instructions very closely and use the chemicals OUTSIDE!

POR 15 works very well.

yeah, read good reports on it, i've never seen it for sale here though, and the kreem liner kit is available everywhere.

paul.

Hi Dukez,

About a year ago I used an Australian product called KBS Gold (I think - just google it, I followed the instructions from their web site) to line the tank on my little Monza. Comes in various sizes to suit tank capacity. Excellent stuff - three bottles: one to clean out, one to etch and then the epoxy paint...all worked so easily. I got it from the supplier here in Brissie but I recall they had suppliers in all states and an mail order option. Not too sure about this but I was warned off Kreem in case any ethanol found its way into the tank. Anyway, my experience for what it's worth.

I replaced the tank on the Monster a few years ago from it rusting out. I endorse the stress and cost that ducsports warns against.  :(

Thanks BribieDuc
For the heads up on KBS coatings.http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/KBS-Cycle-Tank-Sealer-Kit_p_10-13.html (http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/KBS-Cycle-Tank-Sealer-Kit_p_10-13.html)

Just finished re sealing my tank. all good.
A job not recomended for the faint hearted though.
you dont want to do more damage to the tank,buy droping it or scratching the paint.
And the coating sticks like shit to blanket.
don't let it harden on the paint best to mask the whole tank.

Dosn't take long to do a few hours and tank drying time
and you need a good water supply.
Down side 4/5days before fuel can be added to tank.


KBS tank reapair kit $55 plus post
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t70/robert3520/DSC02096.jpg?t=1262490464)

Tank after cleaning and rust converter you should have seen it before :o
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t70/robert3520/DSC02110.jpg?t=1262490537)





Tank after sealer applied

(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t70/robert3520/DSC02126.jpg?t=1262490671)

That is fantastic!

you want a 3-part kit...  here in the states, there is a company named Bill Hirsch which has a kit for bikes -- first bit is a cleaner/derust, second is an etcher to prepare the surface and third is the coating.

it's the best I've used and i've tried them all.  POR is good too.  just make sure they guarantee against alcohol/ethanol because ethanol in gasoline seems to be the future for everyone.

the old version of KREEM gets eating up by ethanol, and i've never liked it much anyhow.  the nice thing about the bill hirsch kit is it is white when cured and it's thinned by MEK so you can thin it as much as you want, oh and you can add multiple layers to seal up damage