Any hints for bleeding or changing fluid in the back brake on an S2R800? Does the wheel need to come off? How about the sprocket?
I think I can change the pads w/o out removing the caliper but I am at a loss on how to change out the fluid and bleed the lines. I do have a Miti-vac that I use used on my M620ie and Honda VFR.
Thanks in advance for any hints.
papa
scrap the vacuum bleeder. old fashioned way works best on this guy..
wheel doesn't need to come off.
caliper comes off, goes through wheel, and turned upside down, so bleeder is on top... you know, where the air WANTS to go.
here is a detailed how to in the tutorials section:
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=16142.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=16142.0)
Corey; thanks for the link. Several good pointers in that.
papa
Quote from: papasmurf on December 07, 2009, 06:06:22 PM
Corey; thanks for the link. Several good pointers in that.
papa
no problem.
gave me trouble the first run through too... rear brake is a pain on these...
You can use some tape on the frame to hold the rear brake reservoir in place where you want it to be. No matter what I had 1 or 2 really small bubbles that I could not get rid of no matter what I did. I think thats okay...
I bled my brakes a few days ago.
I don't know if it is drastically different on a S2R800, but all I did was ....
1) Loosen the bleeder nozzle
2) Pump the brake vigorously with the bleeder nozzle loosened until you feel like there is a steady stream of brake fluid coming out (keep a wrench on the nozzle while pumping fluid out).
3) Haven an open brake fluid bottle nearby to fill the res as you go.
4) When all of the air is out, keep pumping and quickly tighten the nozzle mid pump.
That's it.
In fact, the reason I did get air in my brake line is because I removed the bracket holding the brake master cylinder and flipped it upside down (during a rear spring replacement). So, I think removing the brake from the frame, like mentioned in that tutorial, could make the situation worse (not to mention make the bleeding pointlessly difficult).
i wouldn't remove the reservoir either. just the caliper. make sure you are careful with the brake fluid.. it will eat paint, although not instantly like a lot of people think... you can wipe it off quickly.
it will definitely make the beast with two backs up plastic though, especially that frosted stuff on your nice new rizoma turn signals... doh.
Complete thread jack here, but even after bleeding my back brake and getting a nice firm pedal I found it was pretty much useless for anything else other than holding you at a stop light anyway. Is this normal? I don't think I could lock the back wheel even if I stood on the brake.
Quote from: AndrewNS on December 15, 2009, 02:41:22 PM
Complete thread jack here, but even after bleeding my back brake and getting a nice firm pedal I found it was pretty much useless for anything else other than holding you at a stop light anyway. Is this normal? I don't think I could lock the back wheel even if I stood on the brake.
It certainly was on my carbed 900.
Quote from: AndrewNS on December 15, 2009, 02:41:22 PM
Complete thread jack here, but even after bleeding my back brake and getting a nice firm pedal I found it was pretty much useless for anything else other than holding you at a stop light anyway. Is this normal? I don't think I could lock the back wheel even if I stood on the brake.
Aftermarket pads help, Ferodo Platinums are good.