I've got a frozen 5mm allen on my radians master. What luck have you had with bolt extractors and which brand?
Ive done decently with both the fluted spiral types and the square edged sort. Both just craftsman from sears. The biggest things are to drill it properly and some penatrating lube also is a good plan.
If you're not in a huge rush you can track down some left hand drill bits. If you're lucky lefty bits can turn a sheared off bolt out
if you are in a rush, you can always just drill it out and clean it with air compressor and a pick. Thats a sureshot way, but usually not a good idea if you dont have steady hands.
When they get that small it's a better idea to drill the head off the allen screw. Extractors that small break too easily, then you have hardend tool steel to contend with.
Quote from: 64duc on December 25, 2009, 05:50:53 PM
When they get that small it's a better idea to drill the head off the allen screw. Extractors that small break too easily, then you have hardend tool steel to contend with.
Acyually, I need to specify. The allen size is 5mm. Not sure what the shank size is. The head is recessed in the MC, so cutting it off is a nogo. I'm gonna try some Screw-Outs from sears. Hopefully they'll work-out.
Is the bolt seized, the hex rounded or both? If the bolt is seized, you will more than likely wind up breaking the easy out in it (like 64duc said, bad). If the head is just rounded there are other techniques, like drilling off the head, and if you use a left hand bit, this could even remove the bolt at the same time. Overnight with a good penetrating oil like Kroil and, if needed, some vibration (tap lightly with a hammer) and heat if it is that bad. Keep in mind, if you use heat you will probably need to rebuild the master and you will have paint damage.
Quote from: LowThudd on December 25, 2009, 01:30:16 PM
I've got a frozen 5mm allen on my radians master. What luck have you had with bolt extractors and which brand?
If by "radians master", you mean radial master:Why not just just remove the other bolt to relieve the tq off of the stripped bolt?
Radian as in Yamaha Radian.
Quote from: LowThudd on December 25, 2009, 05:55:51 PM
Acyually, I need to specify. The allen size is 5mm. Not sure what the shank size is. The head is recessed in the MC, so cutting it off is a nogo. I'm gonna try some Screw-Outs from sears. Hopefully they'll work-out.
Get the square ones, they don't break quite as easily as the round ones. They also work better.
A torx bit on a hand (hammer) operated impact driver will also work well.
I have had good luck with these over the years
Recess-Grip Socket-Screw Extractor Sets
http://www.mcmaster.com/#bolt-extractors/=53ipop (http://www.mcmaster.com/#bolt-extractors/=53ipop)
(go to the second page and scroll down)
I agree, try going at it with a torx bit if you can. If that doesn't work, I think you'll get it with a Craftsman extractor, just be patient with it. [bang]
Quote from: iamhybris on December 28, 2009, 03:27:05 AM
I agree, try going at it with a torx bit if you can. If that doesn't work, I think you'll get it with a Craftsman extractor, just be patient with it. [bang]
I've also had good luck hammering an appropriate sized Torx bit into the stripped head and using that to unscrew it. Some penetrating oil on the thread is a good idea before you start.
If that doesn't work out, just drilling the head off the bolt should free the part. Then you can work on getting the rest of the bolt out with the part off the bike.
Scott
Quote from: iamhybris on December 28, 2009, 03:27:05 AM
I agree, try going at it with a torx bit if you can. If that doesn't work, I think you'll get it with a Craftsman extractor, just be patient with it. [bang]
yes. be gentle. they break, the shaft is quite a small diameter, for say, removing a 8mm bolt, when look at the relative thickness of the extractor's shaft. At least for the kind you use a power drill with. (but they do work, however I suggest getting a pilot hole to start with)
Quote from: ato memphis on January 03, 2010, 03:17:24 PM
yes. be gentle. they break, the shaft is quite a small diameter, for say, removing a 8mm bolt, when look at the relative thickness of the extractor's shaft. At least for the kind you use a power drill with. (but they do work, however I suggest getting a pilot hole to start with)
There's already a hole, what used to be the allen hole which is now round. Thanks for all the advice. Appreciate it.
Quote from: LowThudd on January 03, 2010, 04:03:17 PM
There's already a hole, what used to be the allen hole which is now round. Thanks for all the advice. Appreciate it.
Is that hole deep enough for your extractor to 'bite'?
All the ones I've seen are tapered.
no no, i mean for the extractor to bite into, sometimes the existing allen's hole will work. Other times its not really able to provide enough grip - its not deep enough. The craftsman extractors require you to drill into the bolt a bit, but on some harder steel, it just makes a really nice smooth polished hole in the bolt, but doesn't penetrate so much. For that, you can help it along by drilling a small pilot in the center of the stuck bolt. Then it works quite well.
i had some damn brake rotor bolts stuck this way and the damn things wouldn't come out despite my best intentions. Tried oil+sand on the end of the allens, tried torx bit hammered in, heat + penetrating oil, all to no avail. Went with extractors next since I didn't have any welding equipment (would just weld in an appropriately sized allen if I had it), and they take some doing, but seem to work well. One ate the dust on me though.
The blind man says "ah, I see".