what's the trick to turning the preload collars on a shock with a piggy back? I can't seem to figure out how to get the spanner wrench in there.
(http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/6002/rearshock003ai7.jpg)
I took the breather tank off so I could get my hands in there, but I can't get the wrench on there to tighten the collar.
I just added a bit of pre-load on my rear spring on Thursday.
I pulled the rear spring out to do it. A million times easier than trying to twist the things while the spring is in.
Here is a video on how to remove it easily.
How to Replace Rear Spring on a Ducati M900 Motorcycle (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CrgYos29ZXs#normal)
Quote from: Privateer on January 02, 2010, 08:17:16 AM
what's the trick to turning the preload collars on a shock with a piggy back? I can't seem to figure out how to get the spanner wrench in there.
(http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/6002/rearshock003ai7.jpg)
I took the breather tank off so I could get my hands in there, but I can't get the wrench on there to tighten the collar.
Theres a way to do it, but easiest if you just unbolt that crankcase box, or use a hammer and screwdriver. Thats IF your collars metal not plastic like some.
I know it's verboten, but I used a 10" section of 5/16" soft aluminum rod as a drift to rotate the collars with the shock on the bike. It beat up the rod, but the collars look untouched (well, pretty much).
That video is good, but the S4 shock is not the same as the M900 one shown. Any FHE with removing the S4 spring? I'd like to replace mine.
(Sorry for the partial threadjack)
Your suppose to need a spring compressor to remove the spring off a shock. Im not sure how he got it off that way. Is that a stock length spring? or maybe its the way progressive springs are...
anyway, You release the preload as much as you can, compress the spring, pop the collar off on the bottom of the spring and the whole spring slides out. replace it, compress it, put the collar back on (usually its a 2 piece collar) and uncompress it.
thanks for the video, it drove me to undo the top bolt, pivot the shock out, and adjust it that way.
close enough for jazz.
great, so in the process of zero'ing in my forks, I somehow managed to snap the head off one of the handlebar clamp bolts.
How did I manage to snap a stainless bolt using a torque wrench at 34lbs?
never had this happen. I almost threw the wrench across the street.
Quote from: Privateer on January 02, 2010, 11:31:43 AM
great, so in the process of zero'ing in my forks, I somehow managed to snap the head off one of the handlebar clamp bolts.
How did I manage to snap a stainless bolt using a torque wrench at 34lbs?
never had this happen. I almost threw the wrench across the street.
34lbs is a WAY beyond what most bolts need. and unless you replaced them yourself, those arent stainless steel.
Ouch!
He-Man is right. Clamp torque is 20 NM or around 14.75 Foot-lbs.
Surprised the aluminum didn't strip.
Sorry, man. Been there. Ruined a flywheel once. Not fun.
Take a breather now. Relax, then go over all other bolts you may have torqued and check for the correct value.
If you need torque info, post your questions.
well shit. that explains it I guess. Not sure where I got 34 from, unless I did the nm to ft/lbs conversion wrong. It's had written on my desmotimes book. /shrug
I got it nub out with judicious application of vice grips and replaced it with one of the original ones.
The bolts came from the stainless bolt kit that monster parts sells... so you tell me if it was or wasn't stainless.
Crisis averted. Clamp bolts retorqued to proper value and sag set on the rear where I wanted it.
Quote from: Privateer on January 02, 2010, 01:30:29 PM
The bolts came from the stainless bolt kit that monster parts sells... so you tell me if it was or wasn't stainless.
didnt mean anything disrespectful. but the stock ones are not stainless.
Quote from: He Man on January 02, 2010, 01:39:54 PM
didnt mean anything disrespectful. but the stock ones are not stainless.
Sorry, my response was more snippy than I meant it to be. It was a long morning and I let it get the best of me. My apologies.
Quote from: He Man on January 02, 2010, 10:17:22 AM
Your suppose to need a spring compressor to remove the spring off a shock. Im not sure how he got it off that way. Is that a stock length spring? or maybe its the way progressive springs are...
anyway, You release the preload as much as you can, compress the spring, pop the collar off on the bottom of the spring and the whole spring slides out. replace it, compress it, put the collar back on (usually its a 2 piece collar) and uncompress it.
The older "hoop suspension" monster shock can be disassembled without a spring compressor safely. Not so for the others.
has anyone tried the settings here?
http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_settings/146_suggested_suspension_settings/ducati.html (http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_settings/146_suggested_suspension_settings/ducati.html)
I know a lot of it is personal for each person, but any opinions on what they have for my setup?
| front preload | front rebound damping | front comp. damping | rear preload | rear rebound damping | rear comp. damping |
| 10 turns out | 10 clicks out | 12 clicks out | 17mm thread showing | 12 clicks out | 2.25 turns out |
wow that's not easy to read. I did alternating bold for easier reading.
The damping settings might be a good start, but the preload numbers make no sense.
You should be adjusting preload to achieve a measured sag number.
It's the only way to do it.
Also, due to both your forks and shocks having non-stock springs, the damping settings aren't really valid.
alright, good to know, thank you.