Ok, so according to what I've read I should be changing my oil every 2k miles or so. Is there anything else I should be checking/changing?
Also, I'm about 1k miles away from 12k. Is that a big maintenance milage? And if so what should I be looking to do when I hit that mark? Thanks in advance [thumbsup]
At oil changes, it doens't hurt to go around and check fasteners and give an inspection to tires etc. But nothing hard core is needed.
12k is a pretty big interval. If they are less than two years old, it's recommended to replace your belts at the 12k mark. Also, it's a valve clearance check time. There's a whole schedule of check/service/replace items in your manual - I can't remember all of what is called for at 12k. But, it's probably a good time to flush your brake fluid, clean and lube the chain etc etc
12K service includes:
Replacement of timing belts (if the 2yr/12K miles says they're due)
Replacement of fuel filter
Oil change (BTW...I do mine every 3K miles)
Flush out hydraulic systems (both brakes and the clutch)
Valve adjustment
Inspect air filter (Ducati says to replace at 12K...but they're never dirty enough to warrant it so I just inspect)
Inspect bike (brakes, drive chain/sprockets, tires, etc...)
Quote from: Duck-Stew on January 29, 2010, 06:05:03 AM
12K service includes:
Replacement of timing belts (if the 2yr/12K miles says they're due)
Replacement of fuel filter
Oil change (BTW...I do mine every 3K miles)
Flush out hydraulic systems (both brakes and the clutch)
Valve adjustment
Inspect air filter (Ducati says to replace at 12K...but they're never dirty enough to warrant it so I just inspect)
Inspect bike (brakes, drive chain/sprockets, tires, etc...)
When it comes to doing the timing belts is it like a car where they have to be timed correctly or is it just a put 'em on and go kind of thing?
Quote from: duc750 on January 29, 2010, 10:27:54 AM
When it comes to doing the timing belts is it like a car where they have to be timed correctly or is it just a put 'em on and go kind of thing?
You have to do them correctly ;)
Quote from: duc750 on January 29, 2010, 10:27:54 AM
When it comes to doing the timing belts is it like a car where they have to be timed correctly or is it just a put 'em on and go kind of thing?
Video How-To (Much love for Chris!):
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=670.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=670.0)
Very bad things happen to ducs with incorrectly installed belts.
Definitely open up your steering head nut and inspect/grease the steering head bearings. This requires a special tool, get it, it can be found for a reasonable price on the web. Don't use pliers, screwdriveer wedged in, etc. These are always dry and it's probably rusted. You may end up needing to replace the bearings if they are badly pitted, and they probably will be. Aftermarket roller needle bearings take stress better and are about $65. Mine were bad but just barely serviceable last year. I figure I'll replace them this winter.
+1 to flushing brake and clutch fluids. You should really do this every year, it's cheap and easy. The fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere over time which tends to rot the master and slave cylinders.
Check brake pads. Easy to do. If they're good you can just scuff them on sandpaper and a glass plate. Scrub the discs with brake cleaner and a genuine green Scotch brite pad. The real thing, no knock offs. Most knock offs don't have the great fine abrasives in there, real Scotch do. Will make your brakes perform better. If the pads are worn scrub the discs and check some aftermarket pads. Better than stock, lot to choose from.
Fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, check/replace the spark plug wires, lube/check/replace chain and sprockets. As mentioned, check tires, fasteners, general solid once over on the whole bike. Anything look off? And clean it well. You'd be surprised what you find just looking around well duing a good cleaning.
12k is a major service interval. Some of the important things involved are valve clearance check/set, TPS reset, idle speed set, idle CO/mixture set, throttle body balance. Earlier models you can do this with a screwdriver, volt meter and homemade manometer, later models (5.9 ECU, linear TPS) need a computer hookup and manometer to do this. You may also need a gas analyzer for either if you can't set your idle mixture/CO by ear.
The 12k stuff just above takes some skill. The head bearings do too. All the other stuff is fairly easy to do if you have a manual and you're a little handy. If you're intimidated get a seasoned friend to help.
Hey, does/has anyone ever actually greased their swingarm pivot and the rear suspension linkage? Wondering if I should do that this winter. 6 years old, 12k miles. It's listed in the manual along with checking the clutch throwout bearing but I never read anything about anyone actually doing either. :P
Scott
Quote from: scott_araujo on February 04, 2010, 03:33:35 PM
Definitely open up your steering head nut and inspect/grease the steering head bearings. This requires a special tool, get it, it can be found for a reasonable price on the web. Don't use pliers, screwdriveer wedged in, etc. These are always dry and it's probably rusted. You may end up needing to replace the bearings if they are badly pitted, and they probably will be. Aftermarket roller needle bearings take stress better and are about $65. Mine were bad but just barely serviceable last year. I figure I'll replace them this winter.
+1 to flushing brake and clutch fluids. You should really do this every year, it's cheap and easy. The fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere over time which tends to rot the master and slave cylinders.
Check brake pads. Easy to do. If they're good you can just scuff them on sandpaper and a glass plate. Scrub the discs with brake cleaner and a genuine green Scotch brite pad. The real thing, no knock offs. Most knock offs don't have the great fine abrasives in there, real Scotch do. Will make your brakes perform better. If the pads are worn scrub the discs and check some aftermarket pads. Better than stock, lot to choose from.
Fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, check/replace the spark plug wires, lube/check/replace chain and sprockets. As mentioned, check tires, fasteners, general solid once over on the whole bike. Anything look off? And clean it well. You'd be surprised what you find just looking around well duing a good cleaning.
12k is a major service interval. Some of the important things involved are valve clearance check/set, TPS reset, idle speed set, idle CO/mixture set, throttle body balance. Earlier models you can do this with a screwdriver, volt meter and homemade manometer, later models (5.9 ECU, linear TPS) need a computer hookup and manometer to do this. You may also need a gas analyzer for either if you can't set your idle mixture/CO by ear.
The 12k stuff just above takes some skill. The head bearings do too. All the other stuff is fairly easy to do if you have a manual and you're a little handy. If you're intimidated get a seasoned friend to help.
Hey, does/has anyone ever actually greased their swingarm pivot and the rear suspension linkage? Wondering if I should do that this winter. 6 years old, 12k miles. It's listed in the manual along with checking the clutch throwout bearing but I never read anything about anyone actually doing either. :P
Scott
That's exactly what I was looking for! Thanks Scott
Quote from: scott_araujo on February 04, 2010, 03:33:35 PM
<snip>
Hey, does/has anyone ever actually greased their swingarm pivot and the rear suspension linkage? Wondering if I should do that this winter. 6 years old, 12k miles. It's listed in the manual along with checking the clutch throwout bearing but I never read anything about anyone actually doing either. :P
Scott
I did mine at about 20K...I skipped the t/o bearing check.
On the older hoop suspension bikes I grease the heim joints annually.
later models (5.9 ECU, linear TPS) need a computer hookup and manometer to do this.
No they dont a cerbtune and multimeter does it nicely.
In fact the single most important tuning item on all EFI ducatis is the TPS setup everything else can be perfect but a bad TPS setup will ruin the bikes running ...conversely even if out of tune or needing servicing everything else can be masked by a good TPS setup. so get the TPS perfect.