So it's about that time again for the first ride of the spring, unless it snows again of course... Anyways, I don't have any reason to think my chain is stiff but should I be hitting it with some wd40 and chain lube?
I don't care if it looks dirty, I just somewhat have this fear that my neglected chain will break on the highway... I don't know how to tell if the chain is healthy or not, any advice on how to care for it and inspect it?
Great question. I, too, have been wondering how to know if a chain is in good shape (or not).
Hopefully some of our experienced members will answer this.
I clean and lube every other tank fill up.
From what I've been told...
Each individual link should move freely when twisted. The tension/free play should be equal in any position, turning the wheel a bit shouldn't change the tension.
I'm not sure how much it takes for a chain to snap.
A clean and lubricated chain is supposed to last longer. It's especially wounderable to rain, that's for sure.
Quote from: stopintime on March 09, 2010, 12:23:30 PM
Each individual link should move freely when twisted.
Is this ALWAYS the case? I have a problem telling chain condition as well... My chain is clean, rust free, has about 5000m on it, and looks gorgeous... but it SEEMS stiff... but then I realize I'm always checking it when it's cold and has been sitting for a few days... With chain WAX on it... which does turn a bit solid when it's not hot. I'd imagine if you are using a chain wax type lubrication (Maxima), then it might seem a bit stiff at times.
My .02 - Major things to look for on your chain are:
Kinks - Make sure there are no kinks in the chain. (i.e. chain is bent when it shouldnt be)
Excess wear - Inspect the chain for excessive wear or links that look bad.
Excessive Play - Make sure the chain is tight enough but not too tight. Kinks in the chain will cause it to be too tight and wear abnormally. Too loose and you could throw it or ruin your sprockets. (As for specific measurement of play in the chain i dont know off hand.)
I use ChainWax (comes in a gold can with black lid). The only problem I have is if i put the wax on BEFORE i go for a ride. (wax melts and sprays on your bike.) You should put it on a chain that is (for lack of a better term) warm. I generally will apply it to the chain after a ride or about every 300 miles. Im sure it is excessive but i havent had any problems with my chain and i have about 15,000 miles on it.
I was told that WD40 will actually break down the o-rings in the chain and is bad for it. I was told not to use it. Whether or not this is true, i dont know. But i have only used ChainWax and Ive never had a problem. (well aside from the wax splattering onto my white rims.) Also a good cleaning of your chain wont hurt either. They make some great chain cleaners. I bought some at Cycle Gear.
Quote from: ctrain on March 09, 2010, 12:33:31 PM
My .02 - Major things to look for on your chain are:
Kinks - Make sure there are no kinks in the chain. (i.e. chain is bent when it shouldnt be)
Excess wear - Inspect the chain for excessive wear or links that look bad.
Excessive Play - Make sure the chain is tight enough but not too tight. Kinks in the chain will cause it to be too tight and wear abnormally. Too loose and you could throw it or ruin your sprockets. (As for specific measurement of play in the chain i dont know off hand.)
I use ChainWax (comes in a gold can with black lid). The only problem I have is if i put the wax on BEFORE i go for a ride. (wax melts and sprays on your bike.) You should put it on a chain that is (for lack of a better term) warm. I generally will apply it to the chain after a ride or about every 300 miles. Im sure it is excessive but i havent had any problems with my chain and i have about 15,000 miles on it.
I was told that WD40 will actually break down the o-rings in the chain and is bad for it. I was told not to use it. Whether or not this is true, i dont know. But i have only used ChainWax and Ive never had a problem. (well aside from the wax splattering onto my white rims.) Also a good cleaning of your chain wont hurt either. They make some great chain cleaners. I bought some at Cycle Gear.
Awesome info- thanks a ton! [bacon]
I generally clean and lube the chain every 300-500 miles while it is warm as stated above.
http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/videos/ (http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/videos/)
third video from top.
-Before checking for kinked links, clean the chain. The binding may be from accumulated lube and grime.
-Inspect for missing or torn O rings.
-Check for excessive "stretch" (chains don't really stretch). There are two ways to do this. On a 525 or 530 chain, a span of 16 pins should measure less than 259 mm. Too anal? just pull the chain away from the back of the rear sprocket. If you expose a half tooth or more, the chain is worn.
-If you find you need to adjust your chain often it is time.
-If you see fine, brown rust coming from the rollers the chain is toast..
-if your sprockets look like shark's teeth, or you are missing teeth you will want to replace the chain and sprockets.
WD-40 will not hurt the O rings, but if you use excessive amounts the WD could get past the O rings, diluting the lube. I use the same product to both lube and clean my chain, Motorex chain lube. Use what you like.
In theory, the chain and sprockets should be changed as a set. As you have probably read here, many folks will replace a sprocket only to change gearing from stock without problem. If any component is worn, change all as a set.