Well, I bought my first Ducati which was somewhat of a project. When I bought it it was making what I thought was valve noise from lack of adjustment. After adjusting the valves the noise is still there. It is evident it is coming from the horizontal exhaust valve area more towards the exhaust than the rocker area. The sound is metal on metal and is more pronounced at idle. Any ideas?
Valve hitting the piston?
Year and engine size as well as number of miles would help determine what's wrong.
99 750 with 14k miles.
When checking the valves, did you put the spring clips back in? I've heard of a bike making similar noises when one was left out...
(not to call into question your mechanical abilities...)
Did you try to wiggle the valves around when you were in there? '99 750's shouldn't have bad valve guides, but they shouldn't have flaking rockers either and I've seen those on a 2V...
Yes spring clips were reinstalled between washers. Didnt notice any valve wiggle. I think I might try spinning the valve in the guide while looking in the exhaust to see if I notice anything odd. Thanks. How difficult is it to pull just the head?
Totally easy on a 750.
Remove the oil cooler & lines.
Remove the exhaust header.
Remove intake manifold (can cheat here by loosening the carbs and the rubber boot clamp and then taking the nuts loose and removing just the intake manifold)
Remove the timing belt.
Remove the 4 head nuts.
Use a large flat object and put it between the head and the cylinder barrel and slightly twist to just remove the head. This will save valuable time and $ if you don't break the seal between the barrel and engine case.
Head comes right off.
Might want to use a short section of pipe or a huge stack of washers and put a couple of the head nuts back on the studs. This will keep the barrel mated to the engine case should you need to rotate the engine over w/o the horizontal head on it.
Got the head off. Nothing jumping out. Cylinder looks good. No marks on piston. Will pull the valves later.
Ummm...noise all the time or just when the clutch is engaged?
Noise is constant regardless of clutch actuation. Going out to the garage to pull the valves.
Well I reassembled everything and still have the noise. Now I am thinking I have a rod knock. Thinking about shopping for a replacement engine. Any ideas
There's an ST2 engine on eBay right now for just over a grand.
Quote from: ato memphis on March 23, 2010, 12:17:47 PM
There's an ST2 engine on eBay right now for just over a grand.
STs are all water cooled
well it would be fun to see one frankensteined into a monster.
Quote from: ato memphis on March 23, 2010, 12:42:41 PM
well it would be fun to see one frankensteined into a monster.
If the guy has the ability to add some tabs to the frame it would be an upgrade from the 750.
That's a quick welding job, no? And if the old motor is comin' out, its a quick opportunity to PC the frame.
Quote from: ato memphis on March 23, 2010, 01:00:36 PM
That's a quick welding job, no? And if the old motor is comin' out, its a quick opportunity to PC the frame.
...you're really good at spending other's money ato... Have you noticed that?!? ;D
Quote from: Duck-Stew on March 23, 2010, 01:01:38 PM
...you're really good at spending other's money ato... Have you noticed that?!? ;D
That's why I avoid talking to him Stu. :P [laugh] [laugh]
Simply the best - Pop Idol losers torture football fans (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2r5H5QlKlo#normal)
Quote from: ato memphis on March 23, 2010, 01:10:47 PM
Simply the best - Pop Idol losers torture football fans (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2r5H5QlKlo#normal)
which one are you? 8)
the goofy one.
I just got off the phone with the local Duc wrench. He thinks the motor might have wiped a cam lobe off. Causing the metal on metal rattling that I am hearing. Could this be? How do I remove the camshaft? Help?
I've heard there are alternatives to the factory Ducati cam lock-nut tool, but since I did a LOT of wrenching on Ducs over the years, I bought the OE tool.
Remove the valve access covers, and remove the opener clips so you can slide the openers over. Remove the opening shims. Remove the closer shims and split rings too. The closer rockers will be held away from the cam now by the helper springs and you can move the opener rockers out of the way to get the cam out.
Remove the cam lock-nut, washer, pulley and spacer behind the pulley.
There are 4 bolts on the cam end bearing plate (opposite the pulley). With those removed, tapping the cam end bearing plate to rotate it away from the head casting is the easiest way to get your fingers on it. Be careful there is a small spacer on the end of the cam that is the EXACT ID & OD of the cam end bearing so it will sit there from surface tension of the oil, but will slide onto the floor to make a final noise and never be heard from again....
At this point, the cam will slide out of the head for inspection/replacement.
I *think* that's all...