It's not all that. I installed it this weekend and it looks better than stock for sure. But who's really paying attention that part anyway. Clutch pull feels almost identical, maybe 5-10% lighter if that. Though I think I may have ended up with the 28.5mm by mistake (stupid me tossed the box already). Anyone try different slave cylinders and have first-hand experience with what actually makes a pull difference?
I was hoping this would make my bike a daily commuter for the summer but I don't think I'll be able to manage more than a couple days a week.
I used a 30mm STM but also installed barnett springs at the same time, feels the same but I believe the springs are stiffer than stock.
Stainless springs are usually a little stiffer.
The aftermarket slave is not intended solely to lighten the clutch pull - the change in piston size changes the engagement of the clutch because the travel of the lever versus the travel of that piston will change. People pick the 28.5 because it does not substantially change the lever pull distance and range of engagement for the clutch. The 30.5 engages more abruptly. Frequently aftermarket slaves were solutions to leaking OEM slave cylinders.
Quote from: plan-b on March 22, 2010, 02:40:55 PM
I was hoping this would make my bike a daily commuter for the summer but I don't think I'll be able to manage more than a couple days a week.
seriously? because the clutch pull is to hard?
why dont you just ride
more and use a grip excercise when off the bike to overcome it?
Quote from: xcaptainxbloodx on March 22, 2010, 09:42:23 PM
seriously? because the clutch pull is to hard?
why dont you just ride more and use a grip excercise when off the bike to overcome it?
Maybe the OP is that guy from the Burger King commercials with the tiny hands.... [coffee]
back to the intent of the thread ...
i have the 'normal' size evo slave (not the larger 'easier pull' slave) ... i would have
estimated greater than 10% reduction in lever force, but that's just a guess from
memory.
What bike is this?
A) get stronger hands. Seriously.
For Dry Clutch bikes,
B) Add washers under each spring cap to relieve some preload from each spring.
C) Remove two springs - opposite each other around the circle, like #1 & #4.
D) Do all of the above - stronger hands, washers, and run only 4 springs (removing 2).
Clutch may begin to slip slightly earlier when its nearly toast, but barely.
Quote from: xcaptainxbloodx on March 22, 2010, 09:42:23 PM
seriously? because the clutch pull is to hard?
why dont you just ride more and use a grip excercise when off the bike to overcome it?
Seriously? Because everyone in the world is the exactly the same with the same physical capabilities? And no, the clutch pull is not too hard during normal highway riding or even around town. But with a 25 mile (one-way) commute in SFBA traffic, even with lane splitting, there's enough shifting for me to barely make it from freeway entry to exit.
man up, nancy. and don't ever think of swapping masters for the billet brembo gp's. clutch pull is 30% or more heavier
I probably pull the clutch in more in one day then you guys do in a whole month. and id bet that its a fact. It really inst that bad unless you acuate it MORE than me, cause ive gotten use to it. its really teh first few weeks of not riding that it gets tiredsome, but hey, look on the bright side, i got a mean pregnant dog slapping left hand.
Im on a stock slave still. Its leaking ever so often though. Not sure if that makes it any easier to pull.
Just keep using and eventually you'll forget about it.
Quote from: ato memphis on March 23, 2010, 05:28:40 PM
man up, nancy. and don't ever think of swapping masters for the billet brembo gp's. clutch pull is 30% or more heavier
You arn't kidding. The GP brembo setup on my monster is a "man's clutch" lol.... [laugh]
Quote from: plan-b on March 23, 2010, 05:19:23 PM
Seriously? Because everyone in the world is the exactly the same with the same physical capabilities? And no, the clutch pull is not too hard during normal highway riding or even around town. But with a 25 mile (one-way) commute in SFBA traffic, even with lane splitting, there's enough shifting for me to barely make it from freeway entry to exit.
bikes are set up to suit the manufacturers idea of the average rider. if you (or anyone) gets so worn out by working the clutch that you cant ride it the next day then you fall below that average. you have two options, buy aftermarket parts to ease the clutch weight or increase your physical capabilities to overcome that strain. Ive never heard of
anyone being that beat up by a damn clutch before though
it isnt an impossible task, you can and will overcome it if you choose to. you can squeeze a stress ball (or even a hardy sponge) when off the bike to build up the muscles, do pull ups, or buy a grip strengthener. rock climbing ( or boldering) is EXCELLENT for this.
have you tried a dog leg lever? maybe adjusting the lever location to suit you better?
increasing grip strength isn't a bad idea because not only will you be able to use this clutch easier, if you are in the cage, you can squeeze it instead of getting road rage. they are nice stress-busters.
you know that you dont need to use the clutch to shift right? at slow speeds it gets choppy, but its pretty smooth at highway speeds.
+1. If you are giving it some real gas, I find it much better to just preload the shift lever, release throttle pressure, it clicks into the next gear nicely, and then on the gas again. A fluid motion.
when I went from 620 to S2R1K, I thought my left hand was going to fall off. But after a week, I slowly got used to the heavier clutch pull. But every now and then, slow traffic would drain my hand strengh. I am some what dissapointed that you didn't get that much out of the Evoluzione slave. I was seriously considering adding that and talked to my local dealer about it just last week.
Quote from: ato memphis on March 24, 2010, 06:55:37 AM
+1. If you are giving it some real gas, I find it much better to just preload the shift lever, release throttle pressure, it clicks into the next gear nicely, and then on the gas again. A fluid motion.
i hear preloading it is bad. once you do it a few times, it'll become automatic, if you just let of the throttle a bit and crack it back quickly, you'll realize when you can knock it in, and you wont need to preload.
the same thing applies for clutchless down shifting. though i wouldnt recommend doing it until you know how clutchless upshifting works, otherwise its the same thing, you just need to remember to get back on the gas enough to keep the rear from chriping.
i just meant, get toe on lever, i don't begin yanking on it then.
along the same lines, you can do this in a manual transmission car.