Just like I said... I am probably going to get a new battery since the one on my 03 is a lil tired... is one better than another? Personal preference? Weight? A good brand? Or is really doesn't matter???
I hope I posted this in the right spot... :)
I replaced my battery not too long ago, I decided to just go with what had been installed to begin with, Yuasa YT12B-BS. Not much of a price difference between other brands, and it was peace of mind knowing it was the right voltage, etc. For the particular size and power, I'm not sure how brands compare to others in terms of reliability and lifespan.
http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/YT12BBS/Maintenance/YT12BBS.html (http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/YT12BBS/Maintenance/YT12BBS.html)
my personal use battery is the YTX7S or something like that. 7 series, sealed. I love it, had it for many, many years now.
speedcell on a quick connector. take it off the bike in two seconds if you're not riding for a while. Weighs so little it floats into the air if you don't strap it down. ;D
FWIW my 2003 Monster had a brand new bargain Bike Master battery when I bought it and it didn't last long, replaced it w/ a Yuasa, no problems since then...did some reading when the first one failed and concluded that the Yuasa was worth the extra $$$
My top dollar Yuasa went out after 10 months in my new 696, with a battery tender connected from day one. When I went to get a new battery, I could not stomach the $150.00 price knowing that I could get another lemon, so I went with a cheapo lifetime warranty battery from Cycle Gear that was on sale for $90.00.
The battery was obviously made in a third world country with its very crude terminal casting and larger than stock size. I almost returned it because of the difficulty installing the battery cables, but I got it to work and my bike starts fine. I have some peace of mind that I could replace it or get my money back if it ever goes out on me.
Quote from: danaid on March 30, 2010, 08:04:05 PM
My top dollar Yuasa went out after 10 months in my new 696, with a battery tender connected from day one. When I went to get a new battery, I could not stomach the $150.00 price knowing that I could get another lemon, so I went with a cheapo lifetime warranty battery from Cycle Gear that was on sale for $90.00.
The battery was obviously made in a third world country with its very crude terminal casting and larger than stock size. I almost returned it because of the difficulty installing the battery cables, but I got it to work and my bike starts fine. I have some peace of mind that I could replace it or get my money back if it ever goes out on me.
pretty sure yuasa's have a year warrenty.
I've run yuasa's in all my rides...had some that have given more than they should have... definitely love em.
I'm going to SpeedCell the day this Yuasa dies on me, but again, its still chugging along as a 7 series instead of a 12. I'm impressed to say the least.
Quote from: Paper5tr3et7 on March 30, 2010, 10:35:54 PM
pretty sure yuasa's have a year warrenty.
I've run yuasa's in all my rides...had some that have given more than they should have... definitely love em.
Yuasa warrenty is 6 months like most small battery manufactures.
I have a 7S Yuasa as well. It is much lighter than the stock battery and has been trouble free thus far.
DIY "Speedcell". Cost you $115, you can actually have the balancing leads as A123 recommends, and you'll learn a bit about batteries in the process [thumbsup]
Quote from: TAftonomos on March 31, 2010, 09:06:41 AM
DIY "Speedcell". Cost you $115, you can actually have the balancing leads as A123 recommends, and you'll learn a bit about batteries in the process [thumbsup]
link??
I've made several so far for my own bikes. I'll be making another one shortly for the KTM, and will do some pictures/write up.
Pretty simple though. Take 8 cells (4 for the KTM), solder together (like a ni-cad/nimah, etc) add a plug and in this case balancing leads, and whala.
You can shop ebay for the cells, or spend a bit more and get them straight from A123 if you like (developers kit).
Quote from: TAftonomos on March 31, 2010, 09:43:06 AM
I've made several so far for my own bikes. I'll be making another one shortly for the KTM, and will do some pictures/write up.
Pretty simple though. Take 8 cells (4 for the KTM), solder together (like a ni-cad/nimah, etc) add a plug and in this case balancing leads, and whala.
You can shop ebay for the cells, or spend a bit more and get them straight from A123 if you like (developers kit).
yeah i just read the A123 website. guess you can put 8 into 2 series of four then parallel them. should give you about the proper voltage and some good ah. Durbahn.de goes so far as to make them in sets of 4 only for race bikes. didn't realize it was so easy to purchase the cells though.
Cool idea! If you put 4 in series, that gives 13,2 V. Would this do any damage to the bike? And can you use your alternator to charge them withoud mods?
Quote from: Bizzarrini on March 31, 2010, 10:11:14 AM
Cool idea! If you put 4 in series, that gives 13,2 V. Would this do any damage to the bike? And can you use your alternator to charge them withoud mods?
Look on ebay :D
If anyone is interested in going in with me and buying a BUNCH of cells, OR, if you would like to buy cells individually from me, please PM me and let me know. I was interested in buying 50-100 of these cells in the near future, but $$ is tight right now so I was going to wait it out. I also fly RC heli's and getting into electric planes, which is why I need more batteries...
Do you have an example? Can't find anything that clarifies it. Most seem to be 1.2V? Do you use AA, or is there a better size?
Ah ok, you mean something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-12-Pcs-A123-3-2v-2300-mah-Lithium-Ion-Battery-Cell_W0QQitemZ370357591117QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item563b085c4d (http://cgi.ebay.com/New-12-Pcs-A123-3-2v-2300-mah-Lithium-Ion-Battery-Cell_W0QQitemZ370357591117QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item563b085c4d)
I guess 12.8V would be ok? and 18,4 Ah isn't bad either! How about peak current, for starting the engine? 120 Amps peak discharge, but because 4 are parallel, would that mean a peak current of 480 A? And charging with the alternator no prob?
Thanks for all the input! [thumbsup]
Quote from: Bizzarrini on March 31, 2010, 10:59:06 AM
Ah ok, you mean something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-12-Pcs-A123-3-2v-2300-mah-Lithium-Ion-Battery-Cell_W0QQitemZ370357591117QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item563b085c4d (http://cgi.ebay.com/New-12-Pcs-A123-3-2v-2300-mah-Lithium-Ion-Battery-Cell_W0QQitemZ370357591117QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item563b085c4d)
I guess 12.8V would be ok? and 18,4 Ah isn't bad either! How about peak current, for starting the engine? 120 Amps peak discharge, but because 4 are parallel, would that mean a peak current of 480 A? And charging with the alternator no prob?
Those are the ones. 8 cell for a street bike. Not a lot of battery charging taking place low in the revs. Might need a 16 cell to start a REALLY high (static) C/R bike. My KTM lives on a 4 cell batt. Auction is perfect for me, one battery for the project bike, one spare for the KTM [thumbsup]
So, these batteries recharge without modification to electrical system on a bike?
I've wired up enough RC packs to do this w/o a problem. I think.
The bike doesn't drain them down to nothing like a plane/copter/car/etc would. The big drain is on startup, thats about it.
8 cell pack is there because there isn't a lot of charging that goes on under 4k, and on a streetbike that is a decent amount of time. Race bikes can get away with a smaller battery as they are turning high RPM's all the time + no lights, etc.. Of course, total loss systems should be figured out based on draw, time on track, and then build or select the most appropriate battery.