My bike is an 01' s4. i am getting a very bad "crunching" sound every 2 or 3 times i shift into 2nd from 1st gear. that is the only gear in which it happens, i have read it might be bad technique as that is a "sensitive" gear. any advise as to better technique or perhaps mechanical issues to possibly look into would be very appreciated. i am in no way an advanced rider but have owned 3 bikes in past but this is my first ducati however. Also not sure on when last fluid change was... was TOLD only a few months ago, if this matters? thanks in advance, any help is appreciated.
every once in a while i get a nasty crunching sound too... i'd like to hear what the folks have to say on this as well... i noticed that it normally does it if i bugger up a shift and find my self strolling along in false neutral, and then try to put it in gear... what should one do in that situation?? clearly ramming it into gear isn't the wisest choice...
If you're not sure of oil change it anyway. It isn't that expensive.
Most Ducs will 'clunk' a little on a 2-1 downshift. Crunch is not a good sound.
What rpm are you at when shifting down? Do you blip the throttle to match revs?
Does the bike go into neutral if you are at a stop?
Quote from: corey on April 07, 2010, 04:14:38 AM
every once in a while i get a nasty crunching sound too... i'd like to hear what the folks have to say on this as well... i noticed that it normally does it if i bugger up a shift and find my self strolling along in false neutral, and then try to put it in gear... what should one do in that situation?? clearly ramming it into gear isn't the wisest choice...
If you miss a shift...
always...shift up...
not down
good call on fluids, of course. i ordered today. its when i shift up to 2nd, shifts down fine. and 1st i change at prolly 3-4k? i apologize but i'm not sure what you mean by "blip the throttle to match revs". never had any problem going into neutral from 1st or 2nd. thanks again
Quote from: ducatimang on April 07, 2010, 07:05:29 AM
i apologize but i'm not sure what you mean by "blip the throttle to match revs".
Thats just essentially applying some throttle when shifting to a higher gear so your RPMs don't drop substantially and the transition is smoother and less jerky, as opposed to shifting, letting out the clutch, and applying no throttle.
Quote from: NoisyDante on April 07, 2010, 08:37:21 AM
Thats just essentially applying some throttle when shifting to a higher gear so your RPMs don't drop substantially and the transition is smoother and less jerky, as opposed to shifting, letting out the clutch, and applying no throttle.
I thought he was shifting down.
If he's crunching on an upshift...
I suspect it's still technique, but you don't blip the throttle on an upshift.
Try making the shift a bit quicker.
I actually thought about this thread on the ride home, that's correct, on downshift it would be a 'blip', not upshift.
Quote from: ducpainter on April 07, 2010, 04:17:14 AM
If you miss a shift...always...shift up...
not down
point taken. thanks for the advice sir.
Quote from: ducpainter on April 07, 2010, 04:01:56 PM
I thought he was shifting down.
If he's crunching on an upshift...
I suspect it's still technique, but you don't blip the throttle on an upshift.
Try making the shift a bit quicker.
will work on this weekend and let you all know, hah i thought i could shift fine but we'll see. [thumbsup]
so after working on my shifts all week, im afraid the problem is mechanical :-\
my question to you all is where/what to start looking at first? what all could cause this issue. also... if this helps. when the key is turned onto acces. and i shift up to 2nd from 1st or vice versa every time the neutral lights flashes on. is this normal or does that have something to do with my problem? it also does this when im getting my horrible noise while shifting uo to 2nd. thanks again.
---- It sounds like the shift drum is getting hung up, or there is some historisis to it so its not centering easily on each gear. One of three things can cause this (that i know of)
order of easy to hardest...
There is a spring and ball inserted from the rear of the motor (22mm bolt?) to press into detents on the drum to lock it into place for a given gear. This spring may not have enough tension. Check this bolt. I cant find the pic.....but its at least on my phone. Lemme know if you cant find the bolt.
If that checks out, you'll want to take off the alternator side engine cover to access the shift linkage. There are two adjustment points on it and they need to be centered while in a gear. Some playing with the linkage, and you'll see how it adjusts.
If THAT is all centered and everything, then the next step would be internal primary and secondary shaft shimming. Engine case split project.
(http://www.personal.psu.edu/adv11/detent_bolt.jpg)
There we go.
thanks alot. i will try and tighten this as soon as i can get to a socket that large. as for the other fixes... afraid they might be beyond my skill level.
dont crank on it for the sake of tightening it. If its losse and causing a problem, it will be VERY loose. like-backed out several threads.
Just checked, that bolt seemed to be fine. thanks for your suggestions.
you SUUUUURE you dont wanna pop the alternator cover? Its just a few (10-15) M6 bolts and a little tapping and wiggle and its off. You dont need a special tool.
Once its off, you will see the alignment marks. Take some pics and maybe I can help from that.
To button it up, scrape all of the gasket material off of both surfaces and get some yamabond (or ducbond) to make the new seal. Its not all that tough.
oh-drain the oil before removing cover. or dont. It'll drain either way ;D
hey! look what I found! There's 13 bolts.
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/93/l_8751c273401d0b532e75a951e7ec152c.jpg)
That arm jutting out from the 45* position on the alternator is part of the linkage Im talking aout. Your shift drum is the round item directly above the front sprocket (but inside the cover).