I have a 06 620 with 12k on it. I see some wear on the rear sprocket but it doesn't look bad enough to replace.
If you have replaced a chain on a monster due to wear how many miles where on it before it needed replacing?
10k but riding style and motor output influence this.
Is the chain adjusted properly? Does it stay adjusted after riding it? One of the signs of excessive chain wear is the inability to keep it adjusted properly.
X-rings are suppose to last longer for the pure fact that they hold their lube better. Ive read about 30k miles if taken care of properly, but who takes care of their chain anyway? probably less than half of us.
I have 16k on mine. Sprockets look fine. minimal chain stretch and the rollers still roll freely...1000DS motor. 525. I clean my chain once ever 4,000 miles. :P Other times i just spray lube on it.
If you pull on the chain near the sprocket it shoudlnt lift more than half the tooth's length. If it does, you need to replace it.
Theres a chain cleaner called Bean Clean, its the best stuff i ever used to clean my chain.
So it sounds like my stock chain is going to need to be replaced soon?
10-12k on the original is very common, that's when mine died. Aggressive riders who don't lube their chain can get far less. Some folks get 20k or more, this is rare.
DID is often said to be the highest quality replacement because their tolerances are very tight and build quality better than most. X-rings can last a little longer than o-rings.
Scott
The original DID 520 chain on my '06 s2r8 just got changed out at 14k miles, granted by that point I had the eccentric pulled all the way back and I didn't want to pull that chain any longer so it pretty much had to go right then.
It was replaced with an EK MVXZ, so this should be an interesting little experiment.
I set my chain way too tight after a front sprocket change and went for a 100 mile ride. Killed the chain by accident, got home, set the chain to spec and the bike is pretty "crunchy", vibrations, chunkiness (are you noticing anything like that?). Any tighter and it gets more noticeable. Set it a little looser than spec and the bike is OK.
I have 5.5k miles and am planning on replacing chain/sprockets at 7.5k and trying not to do dumb things like ride with the chain too tight.
I usually do not care for the 520 chains because of my experience with low miles out of them. I tend to get between 10k and 14k miles out of a 520 chain and 18k-22k from a 525 or 530 chain. I actually changed the drive system on my 748 from a 520 to a 525 so I won't wear it out as quickly. I looked for a 525 system for my wife's M900ie when we got that and was surprised to see that I can only get sprockets for it in a 520.
Quote from: Desmo Demon on April 15, 2010, 04:11:04 AM
I usually do not care for the 520 chains because of my experience with low miles out of them. I tend to get between 10k and 14k miles out of a 520 chain and 18k-22k from a 525 or 530 chain. I actually changed the drive system on my 748 from a 520 to a 525 so I won't wear it out as quickly. I looked for a 525 system for my wife's M900ie when we got that and was surprised to see that I can only get sprockets for it in a 520.
That's awesome. [beer]
I won't fit an aluminum sprocket on customer's bikes for the same reason.
They just don't last.
replace it when it looks like it needs it, not trying to be smart a$$ about it, but this is something that everyone has different numbers on due to their particular style or area they live in.
i bought a used 620 and with 6kmiles on it and needed a new chain and sprocket at 12k miles and needed a new chain at 7k miles later, the sprocket was still in great shape at 19k miles so i still hve the sprocket i put on it.
Thanks for all the feedback. I bought my 620 with 4k on it and it now has 11k. When I got the bike the chain had been neglected. There was a little rust on it and I had to lube it a couple times and work some of the links so they move more freely. 7k later I find that if I don't lube it every couple weeks the rust shows up again and there is a little sprocket wear. But I still have a lot of adjustment left.
While I'm talking chains. I have been adjusting using the marks on the swing arm for alignment. Has anyone checked the alignment with a straight edge and found the marks aren't accurate?
Thanks again
Quote from: K3V1N on April 16, 2010, 05:38:56 AM
While I'm talking chains. I have been adjusting using the marks on the swing arm for alignment. Has anyone checked the alignment with a straight edge and found the marks aren't accurate?
All the time on every bike in the world :) It's common. An easy solution is to lay a straight edge along the rear sprocket, it should fall nicely in line with the chain. You can also measure from the swing arm pivot to the axle on each side.
Scott
The usefulness of the stock rear axle alignment plates is close to completely useLESS. They suck beyond words. Buy nice ones for $70, make some, or just don't use them. I use a tape measure and my eyeball.
Do not go by the plates after you have loosened and tightened your rear axle nut a few times as the plates are probably bent and can lead to grossly incorrect adjustments.
Quote from: K3V1N on April 16, 2010, 05:38:56 AM
Thanks for all the feedback. I bought my 620 with 4k on it and it now has 11k. When I got the bike the chain had been neglected. There was a little rust on it and I had to lube it a couple times and work some of the links so they move more freely. 7k later I find that if I don't lube it every couple weeks the rust shows up again and there is a little sprocket wear. But I still have a lot of adjustment left.
While I'm talking chains. I have been adjusting using the marks on the swing arm for alignment. Has anyone checked the alignment with a straight edge and found the marks aren't accurate?
Thanks again
If you are constantly adjusting and keep seeing fine brown rust it is chain time. With that many miles I would change sprockets too. They may not look worn, but you will see they are if you compare them to new sprockets. Marks on the swing arm usually are not accurate. Either method Scott recommends will work. The straight edge gives priority to the sprockets, the tape measure gives priority to the wheels.
I'm definitely going to replace the sprockets with the chain. I think I want to go 14 front because the rear of the 620s is a 48 and I can't find anything larger for the back. Are there name brand sprockets or a style that I should be looking for?
Quote from: K3V1N on April 20, 2010, 08:03:33 AM
I'm definitely going to replace the sprockets with the chain. I think I want to go 14 front because the rear of the 620s is a 48 and I can't find anything larger for the back. Are there name brand sprockets or a style that I should be looking for?
Shop monster parts or CA Cycleworks
they are both awesome!!!
Quote from: rockaduc on April 20, 2010, 11:44:38 AM
Shop monster parts or CA Cycleworks
they are both awesome!!!
+1 on monsterparts. got to love jeff
+2 on CA-cycleworks got to love Chris and Candice.
2 of my favorite retailers.
Update:
I got a new chain and sprockets from Candice at CA-cycleworks and she was great! Very helpful and I got my parts quick.
I'm just about to put the chain back on. I planned on removing and installing in one day and then once the wheel and chain were off I had to clean EVERYTHING. That always happens to me.
I had a question about the master link, I got the EK screw type master since I don't have a chain tool. Can I have the side that snaps off facing the wheel? If you don't have experience with the screw type master can you have a rivet master with the pressed side of the pins facing the wheel?
If I do that I have to push the current pin out from the non wheel side correct?