So I was reading through the shop manual on the 696 last night and discovered this little passage:
"Adjust travel of the cold start control cable by turning the control lever on the handlebar to its maximum position and checking that plate (4) is located against the travel limit stop.
Check that engine speed in this condition is 2000 rpm. To adjust the rpm turn the adjuster screw (7)."
(http://www.theatresm.com/DucatiStuff/M696_09_D_4_5_00.18.1.89.jpg)
(http://www.theatresm.com/DucatiStuff/M696_09_D_4_5_00.18.1.90.jpg)
This kinda bugged me cause ever since I got the 696, when you put the lever to its max position, the engine stays around 4000rpm not 2k. So I wanted to go out and make the adjustment proper to what the shop manual says.
But when I went to adjust the screw (7) I didn't see a screw where the manual said there would be one!!!
(http://www.theatresm.com/DucatiStuff/696-1.jpg)
(http://www.theatresm.com/DucatiStuff/696-2.jpg)
(http://www.theatresm.com/DucatiStuff/696-3.jpg)
Any thoughts? Is the manual wrong or is my bike a pre-manual version and I'm screwed (or not as the case may be)? Could be, I got one of the first ones off the line (built April 2008)
Why not just leave it and just don't push the lever to 4000 when you want to warm it up.
Quote from: Heath on May 05, 2010, 12:24:43 PM
Why not just leave it and just don't push the lever to 4000 when you want to warm it up.
That's so not the DIY attitude [cheeky]
It looks like they want you to adjust the air bleeds. Did you check the other TB as well to see if it has a screw?
i wouldn't worry about it....i just had my S2R800 adjusted and with my cold start level all the way open it's above 3000k, i only use it about half way and that gets me to 2000 and i let it run until the motor warms up to where the it raises slightly above 2000k on its own and then i'm good to go. Then just take it easy until the motor warms up.
Just checked mine - no screw either (maybe we are both screwed ;D) - mine built in July 2008
In your pics(and my bike), it looks like either there is no screw hole drilled and tapped or there is a cap over the screw
Also if there is no screw, maybe the shop manual was made before an engineering change - just a thought
I put my fast idle on about 3/4 and then adjust to about 2000 rpm for about 30 seconds (depending on outside temps)
Then I close the fast idle and drive slowly for the first 5-10 mins
There usually is a cap over the screw but it's a plastic one that is easily removed. The bit in the picture looks a bit more permanent.
New insight has been brought to my attention that suggests that the picture is showing press fit plugs that can be removed it you really desire. You will need to drill a small hole in the center of the plug and then thread a screw into the hole. Then merely pull the screw and cap out together.
Quote from: pennyrobber on May 05, 2010, 07:12:24 PM
New insight has been brought to my attention that suggests that the picture is showing press fit plugs that can be removed it you really desire. You will need to drill a small hole in the center of the plug and then thread a screw into the hole. Then merely pull the screw and cap out together.
:o That doesn't sound like fun in the long run. I'm just starting to think that it could have some impact on throttle response in general... (since the cold start cable just opens the throttle a bit (maybe 10-15 deg)... no idea. But this doesn't sound like the kind of thing I want to be the first to try [popcorn]
Quote from: Amlethae on May 05, 2010, 12:31:13 PM
That's so not the DIY attitude [cheeky]
Sorry that is my 'I have messed with stuff that was working fine in the past and caused a lot more work for myself in the long run' attitude [cheeky]
:)
case in point I changed the led's on my gauges.. I get to open them up for a 3rd time today to try to fix my needles for a final time.